Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: M.O.T.N on 06 May 2015, 07:00:18 PM
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Has anyone got any experience or tricks to help me here?
I like my black bevel edged bases but I dislike the look of mini's with thick integral bases on them - they look like they're standing on a pedestal, even after I've used filler and to smooth out the transition.
Short of using a scalpel under the feet I'm not sure how to proceed.
Mantic make some round bases with a sunken circle but they wont accept all the varied base sizes found on these Victrix minis (and they don't have bevel edges... I'm just picky on that point for consistency across my collections).
Pretty stumped and considering using the renendra bases instead, unless anyone has suggestions?
Thanks,
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm259/IceFalchion/Decorated%20images/001_zpssc1ryhz1.jpg) (http://s298.photobucket.com/user/IceFalchion/media/Decorated%20images/001_zpssc1ryhz1.jpg.html)
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Maybe the Mantic ones are usable: http://tabletop-depot.de/mantic/bases-und-zubehor/mantic-25mm-rund-bases-10.html
(couldn't find them on the Mantic site).
DJ
edit: found them!: http://www.manticgames.com/mantic-shop/paint-hobby/bases/product/round-mantic-base-bundle-50-bases.html
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Personally I hate slotta bases and the plinth style, I like my bases to blend seamlessly with the tabletop - so if it were me I'd be slicing them off the integral base with a scalpel and gluing them down to the brown base in the photo.
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If you really want the black bevel base so as to match the rest of your collection then you could just drill out a hole to receive the mini's integral base. A bit of plasticard inside the base to create a new 'sub floor' for the mini to sit on then fill the gap with greenstuff or sand with superglue.
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I struggled for ages with this and I've found the easiest way to remove integral bases is by using nail clippers. It even works with metal integral bases. Best shortcut I've found.
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Thanks for the input folks!
Using a power sander on the bottom of the mini crossed my mind but it would have taken a few hours at least... based on (no pun intended) the volume of miniatures I'll be working on I'm having to lean towards using the flatter brown base.
Perhaps I'll see if I can load it up with filler then try and smooth/bevel the edges around before it cures.
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For me it would be the wire/nail cutters all around the edge and a sharp knife to reduce the stub under the feet.Then glue onto a thin peice of plasticard.(I top all the slotta bases in thin card and trim back.before I attatch the figure.)then liquid plastic glue the entire base top upto the feet and drop sand onto the wet glue.(it doesn't cause ridges next to the feet.)
I have to aggree with Mr.j on this one.It sounds long winded but its faster than sanding,(and a lot less dusty)Even more so if your basing just a body as in your picture.
Mark.
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+1 on getting rid of those awful chuncks of plastic.
I'd clip the sides and remove the rest with my ultrafine saw (taking care not to saw into a foot...)
then pin 'em in the leg, paint 'em up and stick 'em on a base - which can be a preconstructed resin base or a recessed base that I've given a top (or a lasercut MDF but then without the pinning)
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With plastic minis it is no hassle to use clippers to cut away most of the base then use a file to remove the last little bit. Then use poly-cement glue to stick it onto the plastic base (of either type). You can do it with metal bases but it's a bit more difficult and sometimes they snap at the ankle hand have to be repaired. If you use metal figures you really have to pin them to the base, and use super glue.
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/Rob_bresnen/IMG_2432.jpg) (http://s443.photobucket.com/user/Rob_bresnen/media/IMG_2432.jpg.html)
The other option is to mound up the basing material up to the edges of the integral base- which is what I tend to do now as I base my minis on coins and they are to hard to drill through to pin the miniature in place. I use PVA glue and sand.
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/Rob_bresnen/IMG_3389.jpg) (http://s443.photobucket.com/user/Rob_bresnen/media/IMG_3389.jpg.html)