Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Fantasy Adventures => Frostgrave => Topic started by: Philhelm on 24 July 2015, 09:42:16 PM
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I intend to use a combination of metal Reaper miniatures, Reaper Bones, and Frostgrave miniatures. I would like to use the same style base, perhaps in different sizes to accommodate larger creatures, for all of my miniatures.
The Reaper miniatures are already fused to a "base," which is problematic since I am OCD about coherency, and would like the basing style to be consistent. Furthermore, simply gluing them on a base does not look that great since even after adding sand, it would be apparent that the model is standing on a "shelf" upon the base.
What bases do most people use for miniatures like this? Would beveled/lipped bases work better, filling green stuff into the gaps between the outer lip and the model's default base? Or is it better to glue the model onto a normal base and simply put green stuff around the default base in order to create a slope rather than a shelf (is this a lot of work)?
Does sand stick well to dried green stuff with PVA glue? Also, do any people use the pre-colored sand that does not require paint? I usually seal the sand by applying watered down PVA glue after the initially glued sand has dried, as it seems that the sand can easily flake off otherwise. Can this technique be used with the pre-colored sand, or will the added, thin layer of glue make the base look bad?
Any base brands to consider?
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The slightly more approach or removing the original base and pinning them should be good enough.
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I use 25mm renedra rounds, but a lot of miniatures hang off the edges. I do clip off the integral bits of the bases prior to basing though.
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The slightly more approach or removing the original base and pinning them should be good enough.
That might be a bit difficult, at least for the metal miniature I have in mind:
(http://www.reapermini.com/graphics/gallery/4/03469_w_1.jpg)
I suppose I could put a thin strip of green stuff around the edge of the base, and create more of a slope. Perhaps with some rocks and sand it wouldn't look to bad, I guess. I'm just used to Games Workshop miniatures in which they stand flush with the separate base.
Also, what are some good "rocks" to use? I saw some Army Painter ones, but am wondering what they are made of. Do they stick to the base well with an application of PVA, or do they easily fall off?
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I remove reaper figures from their bases with a pair of clippers then file down the edges myself. I then pin them to Galeforce 9 magnetic 25mm or 40mm bases.
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I use mdf bases, you can get them in any size to fit any miniature but they still look uniform. I get mine from Warbases but there are other places.
I use a basing paste. I used to use Basetex but you can make your own as I do now very easily with a mix of paint, PVA and sand. Use paint that's gong to be the dark colour on your bases. I get mine mixed as a Dulux colour because I use a lot, you might want to just go and get a matchpot of a colour you like.
You can use the paste to base up to or over any integral base on the miniatures. Once dry it has a texture you can dry brush. You can add grit, stones, plants, whatever before it dries and it will hold them all in place. You can add things after it's dried and painted like static grass and tufts with PVA. They won't come off.
I tend to add stones and larger grit before it dries and static grass afterwards.
Once it's done everything looks like it belongs together no matter where the miniature originally came from.
(http://www.matakishi.com/Sidhe%20SAGA%20008.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.com/Sidhe%20SAGA%20017.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.com/Napoleonics%20game%201%20005.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.com/British%20shirtsleeves%201%20600.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.com/cyclopes%20front.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.com/AGON%20Gryphon%20002.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.com/AGON%20Hydra%20002.jpg)
Obviously you pick colours you like :)
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I use clippers on mine as well...and if I mess up, then I tend to stack some stones/brick/foliage around that chopped toe etc. lol
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I have a couple of Reaper models in pile of repurposed lead. I have mounted them on 25mm GW round bases then blended the integral base with greenstuff and sand.
You might be able to see if you look closely at the pic below.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-40ahP-RPs5w/VbKfV40r0nI/AAAAAAAACTw/_QRMPDVEeUk/s1600/DSC_9570.jpg)
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I often use filler to build up the bases, but for Frostgrave I'm using deep snow drifts on my bases (snow flock/pva/water mix) which cover up the lip anyway!
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What are people's experience with the following:
Renedra 25mm;
Litko wooden 25mm (1.5 or 3mm thickness?);
Litko acrylic 1" RPG base (looks like the same bases as the pre-painted D&D miniatures)
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If the have tabs or a base I usually snip it off and file it flush to the soles of the boots, then I glue it to a 25mm washer and use grey pumice to build up the base. The pumice also acts as an adhesive further holding the figure to the base...
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If the have tabs or a base I usually snip it off and file it flush to the soles of the boots, then I glue it to a 25mm washer and use grey pumice to build up the base. The pumice also acts as an adhesive further holding the figure to the base...
I've purchased some pumice but haven't ever used it before. Is it better than using greenstuff? What is it like when it has dried? Is it chalky, plastic-like, etc? Can sand be glued on it with PVA like normal?
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I echo the "glue it on then slope greenstuff" that's what I do. I just the paint on pumice (or the sand version from vallejo) to paint all over for a nice texture, then paint. I refuse to deal with sand and pva anymore! Seems pointless now you can get it in a paste.
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I simply glue my figueres to metal washers. The Iron in the washers makes it easy to store the figures in a box with magnetic foil glued to it's bottom.
It is no great deal tomake the blend the base in like darthgus tells.
Heavy bases makes your figures stability grow significantly.
Cheers
GS
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I did some work basing my reaper bones minis just recently. I'm using 25mm round bases (mostly). I'm using the ones that came with my bones 2 kickstarter. They are neither beveled nor round but a 90 degree angle from the ground. I'm mostly using green stuff fill in the area that the bones bases don't cover. In the case of my apprentice model i chopped off the extra basing and glued his feet to cobblestone I'd stamped out.
Check it out in my blog: http://gamersansclue.blogspot.com/2015/07/cobbeling-together-frostgrave-band.html
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The pumice is textured so no need for sand, you can sink small fish bowl gravel into it and it takes paint wonderfully, It dries to a hard flexible rubber-esq material. I now use it exclusively for all my figures...it can be slightly sculpted into peaks and hills as well...
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I went through the last Bones delivery from Reaper and took a different mixture of bases for them. Big bases for the troll/giant are standard GW bases while the smaller ones are mostly "standard" 25mm MDF and plastic bases from the henchmen plastic set with a few spares in other sizes but all pretty flat.
Covering the integral bases was no big deal with some artist pumice, the additional bits and artifical snow hides some of the "failures" were the bases we not covered overall. All in all I am pretty happy with the Reaper minis for the monsters.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32474434/blog/2015-07-30%2022.47.41.jpg)
(edit: added picture)
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@ h0unskull:
Blimey, those look a bit nice! I think we're going to need more and bigger pictures to better appreciate them please! :-*
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Do the thin Renedra bases (like the ones that come with the Frostgrave Soldiers) warp over time?
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(http://www.matakishi.com/AGON%20Hydra%20002.jpg)
That hydra though! Pray tell, where is that fine beast from?
Do the thin Renedra bases (like the ones that come with the Frostgrave Soldiers) warp over time?
The Renedra bases are hard injection molded plastic - I've been using them for a couple of years, no warping yet, and I'm confident they wont.
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What side of the Renedra bases is supposed to be the top? One side is textured and the other smooth. I guess the smooth side is the bottom?
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I think thats the way they are intended, yes, and its certainly how I'm using them, rough surface upwards.
As with so many things though, its our personal preferences that matter most to us - to each their own 8)
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That hydra though! Pray tell, where is that fine beast from?
https://www.battlemart.com/nakaraat-reptus-monster-hydra.html
http://www.miniature-giant.com/nakaraat-reptus-hydra-oop-Reaper-WarLord-WL-sku-14445-pr-11096.html
http://www.reapermini.com/misc/KS_HydraReward.jpg
https://caffeineforge.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/hydra-wip.jpg
So, looks like a Reaper. :-)
Grimm
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Like **GS** I base mine on washers. Most of my 32+ heroic scale models are on standard GW slotted bases but for 28mm models I prefer them to be more compact and closer to the board. The weight of the metal provides stability, "old gamer heft" and the hole at center provides some "give" when positioning models on rough terrain. I feel the OP's pain concerning uniformity; It pleases me to know I don't have a problem after all :).
For my Frostgrave project I have been dragging a lot of old models back into the light so I have been dealing with a fair number of integrated bases. I use two part epoxy to model cobbles and liquid nails as filler. The groundwork ends up flush with the bottom of the models feet. For slotted models I've been cutting it off and pinning them to the finished washer bases. I'm considering making up a few with sculpey groundwork and see how they work out.
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So, looks like a Reaper. :-)
Grimm
So it is (https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/hydra/sku-down/77191)!, Reaper are so prolific its hard to keep track :)
Thanks Grimm!
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Yes, it's the Reaper bones one (less heads than the metal version but very, very cheap).
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Yes, it's the Reaper bones one (less heads than the metal version but very, very cheap).
Buy 2, transplant all but one head.
Have a MULTI headed hydra of doom and a lizard. :-)
Grimm
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It might even make sense to use more basic airdrying clay like Sculpey or DAS and save your greenstuff, but making a slope around them is the way to go.