Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Pulp => Topic started by: tin shed gamer on August 07, 2015, 06:03:06 PM
-
After commenting in Frams' Pulp plane topic on how I tend to use the SuperMarine Walrus in 1/48th as my starting point for pulp seaplanes,and Matt asking if I'd post an image of one I'd finished (I'd none in stock at the time).
I decided not to indirectly hijack Frams topic and do a work in progress topic rather than a finished plane picture.
(If I'm posting in the wrong place then I'm sure it'll get moved to the right one)
So here goes putting my money where my mouth is with an early stage of construction.
-
These kits have decal sheets and engraved decal placements on the plane ,so a little bit of clay rubbed in removes them easily . The crew are ,well I'm not sure what they are.so I've started o. Re sculpt the detail over the top of them.
The modelling is a little old fashioned for plastic kits.however they are ideal for gaming as they tend to have thicker parts than modern kits,This is actually a plus as they fit much more sympathetically with metal figures than more modern kits,If you view and treat them as you would a metal kit then you can't go. Wrong.
In terms of hitting your pocket this kit cost less than a third of the same model in a modern scale kit.
The only down side for me is the kit only comes with wheels down so waterlining the model is more time consuming .
As for paint schemes the first image is the scale model/historical look,which isn't quite pulp enough for me. So I'm draw to the more colourful schemes of the earlier machines.
-
Oooph! That check pattern will leave you cross-eyed! o_o
Can't wait to see what you do.
-
The check pattern would be easy as the pattern is engraved into the body to represent panels ,but I torn between the two,and a combination of the two.
Mark.
-
Ooh a start! Go Mark.
You sculpted that pilot on top of the plastic bobble??? A headswap right??!
The checkers would look great. 8)
Cheers
Matt
-
I have this kit, looking forward to seeing how you get on with this
-
Hi Matt,
As promised I've made a start. The pilot is a sculpt over the blob(no head swap all me) shortened down to 28mm(ish) there's no real detail as its in a cockpit,just a suggestion of shirt sleeves ,shorts ,life jacket etc,and a brew.scaling isn't an issue as there'll be a canopy over it so bold shapes rather than detail,and paint to hide the rest.(second picture is a bit clearer)
Mac it's not a bad kit nice and chunky,the reason for water lining the model is I've already a wheeled plane for gaming and for me a sea plane on the water is a great addition ,normally I do this kit from the box so to speak,only tweaks being a round hatch over the front ,and a metal twin vickers 'K'gun replacing the rear gun.The windows I paint over.
For this one I'm rigging it using florists wire as its likely to get picked up awkwardly due to the water lining.Its proving to be even sturdier than I hoped.
Mark.
-
So tell me if I got this right. You sculpted that great pilot figure :-* :-* with the brimmed hat and coffee mug over the plastic blob o_o that looks like the Gimp from Pulp Fiction? If so my hat is off to you - what an improvement!!
LB
-
Yes it's over the top of a blob(if you look at the socks you can see the flash lines from the plastic).the rest of the crew I'll just do from scratch as I promised Matt they'd be different from the standard crew stances you get in the majority of kits,
-
Very cool.
What's your technique for the waterlining part?
I have a few seaplanes I'd like to put together, and not sure of a good way to handle that bit.
-
It depends on the model,the real plane(how deep it actually sits in the water)'and what tools you have.
But the simple low tech(and best1) is to draw the water line on each side ,glue them together ( a must as each side will flex as you cut/saw making it difficult to get the even) then cut through slightly south of your line and sand back to the line, I use a full sheet of sand paper on a flat surface and rub the whole model back and forth across the surface .its a little soul destroying as it takes a while and makes a mess,but it's simple. The important things to remember are where does the internal details fit in relation to the depth of your cut,and how close to your water lining do the wing floats sit?
This kit is easy as it has straight horizontal lines cast into the hull,That said I've ignored them and got a bit 'clever' with myself ,and dipped it of the horizontal slightly to hopefully give the impression of it bobbing up and down with the waves.The trick is only to go off level buy a couple of millimetres ,because when you add the wings the angle of the hull is dramatically increased .too much off the hull in any direction and it'll look like it's crashing and not floating .
Hope that helps
Mark.
-
I love seaboats and that's a cool one and your pilot resculpt is ace. Looking forward to watching your progress
-
I've had the same kit for quite a while now. :)
You're Pilot re-sculpt is marvellous over the blobs that come with it.
I can't wait to see how you paint the little devil. May make me do mine? :D
-
Shaping up nicely. Your conversion of the pilot is excellent!
-
I managed to fit a bit more in today.
The wings are done this way just to make it easier to paint.
First stage of painting on the pilot and the cabin area.
-
Looking great so far! :-*
-
I'm liking this 8)
cheers
James
-
It wasn't just after took the pictures. I forgot I'd left the wings out side,and went to put the kids rabbit away heard an almighty bang,my eldest lad sat on them(and they were on a table :?)it's a good job he's just signed his papers lol.
I've put the right wing and float back together ,however I'm pretty sure I can no longer say they'll fit on to the rest of the plane first time,so it's now had its Sod's law moment.(I don't think I've ever made something that doesn't ).
Which means I might have to change the colour scheme slightly as I may have to gap fill on the right wing.only slightly ,but if so then the painting actually becomes more time consuming.
-
It depends on the model,the real plane(how deep it actually sits in the water)'and what tools you have.
But the simple low tech(and best1) is to draw the water line on each side ,glue them together ( a must as each side will flex as you cut/saw making it difficult to get the even) then cut through slightly south of your line and sand back to the line, I use a full sheet of sand paper on a flat surface and rub the whole model back and forth across the surface .its a little soul destroying as it takes a while and makes a mess,but it's simple. The important things to remember are where does the internal details fit in relation to the depth of your cut,and how close to your water lining do the wing floats sit?
This kit is easy as it has straight horizontal lines cast into the hull,That said I've ignored them and got a bit 'clever' with myself ,and dipped it of the horizontal slightly to hopefully give the impression of it bobbing up and down with the waves.The trick is only to go off level buy a couple of millimetres ,because when you add the wings the angle of the hull is dramatically increased .too much off the hull in any direction and it'll look like it's crashing and not floating .
Hope that helps
Mark.
Good details, thanks.
-
Oh sod indeed. :(
It was looking good. lol
Cheers
Matt.
-
I built a 1/56th scale seaplane with waterline platform a few years ago. No need to modify the hull of the plane if you "build up" the water:
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac297/grendels_father/pby92-1.jpg)
I used 3" plastic circle and added layers of green-stuff to form the waves, then painted and added several coats of clear gloss lacquer
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac297/grendels_father/008.jpg)
-
Stunning paint on the pilot and a stunning sculpt too
-
Painting slowly progressing ,weathering is in the first stage,and requires a high light.
It's looking a little grubby at this stage(especially with the 'hd' setting on the iPad)but I did say I'd show it warts and all.
The paint scheme was chosen in the end,mainly by the desire to add weathering,the checked areas were too busy to do this with and it would have looked a mess when finished.as it's still quite busy as it stands.
It's an interesting take on basing a plane,who ever it's too dynamic a pose for what I intend.Mine is to be used in games as a plot point in so far as an objective ,or starting point,so the idea is the inference of motion in the surface of the water whilst the plane is at rest, not the inferred motion of the plane.(other wise the game is chase the plane that's still airborne )
I'm glad it's going down well,and thanks for your comments.
Mark.
-
Ohhh! Liking that a lot! :o
I feel that he should have his arch enemy chasing him in a similarly decked out and nicely painted plane. Black with a painted white skull over the nose.
-
I also like your progress so far.
I have the 1/72nd scale Walrus and have thought what could I do with it.
Your 1/48th scale example looks fantastic and I will be following this thread with interest.
Tony
-
Now that IS a bold scheme! 8) 8) 8) 8)
-
Absolutely beautiful work! Richard
-
Ooh Mark that looks good! :-*
The pilot does look very good. You have sculpted him very well.
Question sir, do you drill holes in the plastic to poke the florist wire in? And then glue with superglue?
Cheers
Matt.
-
Thanks everyone it's a little odd doing this kind of post as I've no idea when,or at which stage to post pictures ,when you just want to charge ahead and finish it.you sit there thinking is this a bit dull to look at,or is it rude to do a bit more and just miss out this bit and post further down the line? lol
I do drill holes and glue the wire in.but there's two ways to do the wire.
The strongest (and the biggest pain)is to bend the ends over to form a pin at each end so the diagonal has a vertical pins to go into the holes,it takes practice to measure and bend in two pins.
Now I only used this method for the pins around the engine.it took nearly two hours of profanities to get them in and to stay in.(partly because of the method and partly because I'm out of practice but mainly because I kept dropping pieces and had to make new ones)
The second method is the easiest and the fastest,bend a pin in one end of the wire forming an 'L' cut a length roughly the length of the diagonal place the pin end in one hole and let the diagonal drop into the other hole(if you cut the diagonal just past the hole and flex it back into the hole it should sit in and hold tightly)both wings and floats took less than twenty minutes to do this way(excluding drilling the holes)'
Mark.
-
Insufficient WIP photos. :'(
So much wonderful about this project... I could never be bored by any progress shot for something like this!
Really sorry to hear about your offspring mistaking the wing sub-assemblies for a nest and perching upon them. :o
-
This is getting a Porco Rosso vibe, incidentally :D 8) 8)
-
:o that's just weird,I was going to name it the Crimson pig!but there's too much green in the colour scheme. I hadn't come across this film until you mentioned it(yep I went off line and looked it up,because I had no idea what you were on about,Google smart that's me lol)
But I think the Sea witch is more fitting although a 'pin up'is going to take longer to paint.
But before I do that I'm going to have to tackle the canopy glass it's the bit I've been putting off. As I mentioned before I normally paint over it because the crew aren't upto much.again I've out smarted my self into a corner,so I've got to paint the window struts,the best result would be to mask both the inside and the outside and spray under coat on, then paint.but this way madness lies.this is the one piece that will make or break the whole project ,and it can do it twice in the construction first when you paint it and then again when you glue it on.
As for when ? It will be the very last part to be attached and only after everything else has had a day to dry.as the risk of frosting is high when you seal off an air pocket in the hull.
Mark.
-
Just dip the clear parts in johnsons clear floor polish, not only does it stop super glue fogging the clear plastic, it makes the glass crystal clear
-
This is really inspiring to watch this in progress.
So much so that I have bought one of those planes and it has just turned up.
Now I just need the time to kit bash it with the 40k speeder that I have.
;)
-
Shocked that's just weird,I was going to name it the Crimson pig!but there's too much green in the colour scheme. I hadn't come across this film until you mentioned it(yep I went off line and looked it up,because I had no idea what you were on about,Google smart that's me Laugh)
Heh - hope you manage to watch it in full, it's a nice animation with some inspiring stuff. And you'll want a couple of tiny islands too... :D
The cockpit canopies, that eternal terror! Best of luck 8)
-
Looks great. I'm getting this image of Clark Savage III, circa 1967, refurbishing and repainting his dad's old seaplane to make it a bit more hip.
-
Here's a few more pictures,
The window's are done,Yes they're ment to look grubby,for me the problem with windows is the reflected light around the edges of each window,it always makes plastic windows look plastic,so I work with the light by painting an thinned earth brown on the glass over the areas of light and then drop a little purple ink in the corners.its not To everyone's taste but it works with this kind of weathering ,nice clean windows looked out of place windows.
Mark.
-
That is a very nice scale effect you have going on there.
This build is truly inspiring. I have weathered and added pilots to a few 1/48 scale diecasts to populate my table, but now you have me tempted to take on a greater challenge.
-
Superb.
Interesting effect you have with the dirty windows - thanks for sharing it.
Tony
-
Glad everyone likes they way its plodding along.had a go at the check work at the rear of the plane today,I started to paint a mid green and white pattern,but halfway through it just looked wrong (no idea why it just did)so I'm reworking it with a black and white pattern using the original green as a highlight /weathering on the black areas,
Interesting effect you have with the dirty windows - thanks for sharing it.
Tony
its also good for buildings it hides the white light lines around the edges and reminds you of window putty on big windows and grubbiness on small ones.
If anyone's interest there's a few 1/48 planes on eBay at the moment all preprinted and neatly finished and rigged going at £5 starting bid and with postage come in at under a tenner.ideal for adding weathering to and highlighting all the base colours being in place or just used as they are (you'd be hard pressed to buy the kits unmade at this price ,there's too many to add a link but a blind 1/48 search will throw them up)
Note its not a plug for anyone I know .just found the by accident ,thought they might be useful to someone here.
Mark.
-
You may want to browse this site to see some more Walrus models.
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal-Archives/bi-planes/Supermarine-Walrus/01.shtm
Tony
-
I followed your link,and read the article on the 1/48 th kit.Interesting how he's put all that effort into building the interior and reworking the engine and guns,then states that folding wing joints and rigging were the hardest,even though there's very little reworking /sculpting to do compared to the work he's already listed ,each to there own I suppose . :?
Steve still no idea on the Savage reference (Google powers are fading lol)
I've been through to see Mick at 1st Corps today,and picked up some Vickers 'K' machine guns,for the plane and he's happy to sell them separately if anyone's after some also any of the vehicle mounted weapons from the WW1 range .( a quick phone call to 1st Corps would be faster as they've no time to add this to the page as there snowed under with orders and restocking for the shows at the end of the month)since a few of you've bought the kit,and let's face it the guns are on par with the crew,I thought it might prove a useful point,as someone was bound to ask about the ones I use once I'd posted a picture. It's not intend as a plug,it's simply a case of I made them and the airborne jeeps from which there pinched,and I happened to make them for 1st Corps,and I'd be daft to buy another manufacturers product when I've access to ones I've already sculpted.
I'll post some images of the guns once I'm at that stage I'm leaning towards a single k gun at the front and a double k gun at the rear. But I might lay that open to a vote as I've enough of both types to do any combination .
Mark.
-
Steve still no idea on the Savage reference (Google powers are fading lol)
Oh, sorry. Doc Savage's proper name was Clark Savage Jnr, so I'm just imagining a next generation who'd be around in the 60s and really appreciate Op Art.
-
No it's me I was being to literal ,I was looking for a Doc Savavage seaplane in psychedelic colours.and just kept on coming up with silver plane ,or man of bronze plane references.
Mark.
-
Love the colour scheme, great work.
-
The hull is finished,bar the addition of the engine,prop,and machine guns. The engine required a bit of filling at six points around the edge and fair amount of flash needed removing.the prop is in two parts and only light flash lines so shouldn't be an issue.As for colour I'm planning on a wood effect rather than the black and yellow ,as the check is likely to draw your eye,and look uncomfortable with the a large area of black above it.
The machine guns come with two different hull mounts,and I'm drawn to the bulk of the double mount,as it'll give a bit more presence to the single gun. I'm aware it's not strictly an aircraft mounting,but it's a pulp plane not a museum display piece so I don't care that much if it's accurate,only that it looks purposeful .
I've also started the base,it's been made separate so it's easier to paint.(which also explains the odd shape for the pilots base,as it acts as a key to locate and aline the hull so when the sea effect is trimmed it fits neatly around the hull,as odd gaps will kill the whole thing.
Mark.
-
Oh yes! That's good! 8)
-
Okay here's the last images of the hull as I suspect everyone's as sick of it as I am.
-
:-* very nice Mark, thanks for all the update pictures!
Did you do the cross wires before you painted the wings or after? before would be good as you could undercoat the wire, after would be good to help paint the wings smoothly.
Cheers
Matt
-
Matt the wings are wired before painting and undercoating.in the case of this kit it makes very little difference to painting the wings,as there nearly 4.5cm appart. Also the fact I've constructed the wings prior to attaching them to the hull eases the brush access,(I've avoided using an air brush for this model as I prefer to do this the same way I'd do a tutorial ,with the simplest and easiest to access methods and tools,)
The main colour for the wings is Citadel Castellan green,this is great 'military' feeling colour but it's a pig to get an even coat with by brush. Oddly it does work well in an air brush.
Then a large brush wet brush over the top,with a 50/50 mix with khaki(I'm using miniature paints khaki),followed by a neat khaki highlight ,
When the wings have been added to the hull,I'll add a highlight of Tanned flesh on small areas of the khaki.then an additional highlight of a 50/50 mix of white and sunshine yellow on the tanned flesh but only in the areas of joints,and sharp edges.
This gives a really good feel of faded and battle worn paint .
Mark.
-
Thanks Mark!
I've already glued mine together/to the plane, so I dont have much option lol
Cheers
Matt
-
Would that be the tiger moth? Because that looked to be going really well.
Here's a model that has the pink and yellow highlights on green.(to answer the PM's yes I do and yes it works :D )
Mark.
-
Yeah the Moth. I've added a new pilot head and sculpted a little fur on him. Much better than the bobble, but no where near your putty pushing level. Thankfully most is hidden by the cockpit. Top wing is attached with struts.
Needs any final details/wires, before undercoat.
Cheers
Matt
-
Looking forward to seeing the finished plane.
-
Here we are 90% finished,knowing when to post pictures once the wings have been added is tricky but since I've only the prop left to do and that's likely to take a back seat for now I've posted extra pictures of the plane with other pulp items just to help scale it and just to show how the items for my pulp project are chugging along.
Mark.
-
Lovely work and well done to you.
-
Wonderful finish.
:-* :-*
That is a great collection of Pulp conveyances too.
8) 8)
-
Thats a joy to look at.
-
simply amazing
-
Brilliant! :-* You must have some cracking pulp games!
-
Brilliant - wspecially the group pic of all the vehicles.
8) 8) 8) 8)
-
Very "Crimson Pig" Nice work Mark! :-* :-*
(http://i1.wp.com/halcyonrealms.com/blogpics/porcorossoao08.jpg?resize=750%2C500)
Image from "Art of Porco Rosso"
Cheers
Matt
-
Very nice, I have really enjoyed watching your progress on this :-*
LB
-
Great looking sea plane.
and thanks for all the work-in-progress shots - they are inspirational.
Tony
-
Thank you for all your comments, it's been a fun to do although the length of time it's taken to build the hull,did make it feel like it was taking forever ,mainly because of water lining and building a base. That fits( actually it doesn't after half a dozen dry runs it did then an application of glue to fix it into place and it didn't so the stern is proud of the base by 1/2mm you can't see it until you pick it up and look inside the rear mount and there's a thin light line my bad I didn't allow enough room for the glue)
Now this Proco Rosso stuff has me thinking so I'm going to knock out a couple of small flying wing planes to add to the fleet using Matts picture and the sea gull boat as inspiration and a simple starting point/ frame.shouldnt take more than a couple of hours to come up with something.
Mark,
-
Here you go Matt,a quick cereal packet plane just needs a prop and little tweaking.
Mark.
-
That is an awesome version/spinoff of the Seagull. I picked up Tobsen's resin version years ago and it's appeared as exotic dockside scenery in a few pulp games - more photos over here (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=13238.0), and still available on Tobsen's website (http://www.tobsen77.de/products/seagull.php).
(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/8528/seagullcomplete15sept09.jpg)
-
That's highly impressive use of cereal packets, Tin Shed Gamer, though it does look like the curve of the aeroplaned wings is perhaps a bit too tight for the card.
-
Steve,
The answer is both yes and no, ;) If you precurve the card before forming the wing then it's a no it'll go smoothly,to do this you need to be sat at a table,and I used my knee while I watched TV with the kids.
The creasing is because I've pushed the leading edge in ,to form a flat area to add a panel with a point/weapon sticking out ,the yes is the panel is to small to precurve,the whole thing will be on a flight stand.(if bother painting it).
Wire lizard,
It's an interesting colour scheme,thank you for posting it confirms the drawbacks of this shape when casting,I use card rather than Cad for concepts as it's faster and this is a proof of concept to check for hidden casting issues before I sculpt a the master. I chose to post this idea,because its a simple build which anyone can build using my old tri motor tutorial. :D
Mark.
-
Here you go Matt,a quick cereal packet plane just needs a prop and little tweaking.
Mark.
That's a very impressive model.
I think it looks better as a plane than a boat.
Tony
-
;)thank you Tony ,its a bit roughet than my usual card models (as its a concept not a model,as Ive mentioned before these usually get thrown away or stuck on the wall until Ive time to build a castable version,)
It does make a nice looking plane.Ive a dead hour tonight while Im waiting for another project to dry before I can knock off so I'll through some paint at it and see what it looks like.
Mark,
-
Wow Mark, that turned out better than I thought, I was thrown by that earlier popular science picture lol.
The flying wing looks good.
So with gluing the pre curved card, should you have started in the middle of the curve (front edge) then down to the back point edge? Or start at the point back edge up the flat then round the curve front edge before back down to the back?
Cheers
Matt
-
I don't quite know how to answer
I glue the vertical former (excluding the front semicircular curve )in place first,then the horizontal former (which makes the lower relief wing flap ) then make a couple of dry runs checking the fit,then glue the bottom half of the semicircular curve in place ensuring the wing profile former stays vertical,then a few more dry runs and then I apply glue to the rest of the profile former and the entire horizontal former,bringing the curve down to meet the lower half on a flat surface don't try to bring the flat side to the curve or attempt it without a flat surface,you'll only end up deforming the whole thing.
Steve it all comes good in the wash :D. Tony doesn't quite look like the boat now, I kained out a quick paint scheme to go with the over all Crimson Pig theme. I'll add a prop at a later date(now it's painted it won't be going into the bin)
Mark.
-
Inspired! :-*
-
Haha, wow, he just tore that one out in a day.
-
:-* :-* :-* :-*
-
Glad you all like it.
But now I'm well and truly side tracked,since I've had the red paint out a lot lately. I might as well make a small fire engine,before I put it away,which should come in useful for getting in the way or just sitting pretty on the table.
Mark.
-
The painted plane is fantastic, and you make this model maker green with envy when you suggest that it was made in a day and as a concept rather than a true scale model.....
Fantastic.
Tony
-
lol Tony,
I never said I made in a day that was Fram,I said it should take a couple of hours.It actually took four and a half ,as I had to base it as well as paint it,the flight stand is a plastic 40mm square base with a bamboo kebab stick.Things likes take seconds.
Mark.