Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: dwbullock on 09 February 2016, 06:05:39 PM
-
As luck would have it, lost the appeal of a trial that included numerous exhibits on laminated foam board. Figured I would make good use of the stuff, since I have no intention of keeping exhibits from a losing trial.
Very familiar with using foamboard for terrain, but have never used laminated before. Tried to peel it off, and could always expose the foam and scribe bricks, but hoping to avoid investing a ton of time -- need to knock up a bunch of quick fantasy terrain.
Anyone ever used this type of foamboard? Will paint even stick to it (spray primer and/or gesso, whichever works)? Since I'm looking for fantasy terrain, might slap some plaster or drywall mud on it, but again ... will it stick?
Suggestions?
-
I don't think I've ever seen laminated foamboard or heard of it before. Standard foamboard is easy to use though. Sorry no help to you there then.
-
a.k.a. foamcore https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foamcore
I've seen it used in model making to make building shells, by cutting V grooves in the inner face to enable folding. Through careful design you can also cut out an outer layer and the inner layer using a scalpel to create a tab or flap that will take conventional glues like PVA or even UHU that would otherwise melt the foam in the middle.
I've used it with some success to add bulk to thatched roof sections...
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x200/sukhe_bator/Men%20of%20Gondor/thatch.jpg)
as well as additional thickness for ruined walls etc...
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x200/sukhe_bator/Men%20of%20Gondor/ruins.jpg)
-
Foamboard / foam core, I have used plenty of times in the past. Just never laminated before. usually it's just the two pieces of paper with foam sandwiched between. Not sure how this lamination will impact my use. Maybe I should just say screw it and use it on a test piece.
Did I mention I have 20+ sheets of 5 feet x 4 feet of the stuff?
-
Did I mention I have 20+ sheets of 5 feet x 4 feet of the stuff?
Thats pleny to experiment with!
-
As luck would have it, lost the appeal of a trial that included numerous exhibits on laminated foam board. Figured I would make good use of the stuff, since I have no intention of keeping exhibits from a losing trial.
Very familiar with using foamboard for terrain, but have never used laminated before. Tried to peel it off, and could always expose the foam and scribe bricks, but hoping to avoid investing a ton of time -- need to knock up a bunch of quick fantasy terrain.
Anyone ever used this type of foamboard? Will paint even stick to it (spray primer and/or gesso, whichever works)? Since I'm looking for fantasy terrain, might slap some plaster or drywall mud on it, but again ... will it stick?
Suggestions?
There is card board foamcore and polystyrene foamcore, the former being somewhat more common. Both are, mostly, styrene expanded foam sandwiched between sheets of respective material and therefore having different properties. With laminated foamcore I suppose you men the double/triple thickness board of foamcore? Standard thickness tend in Europe of be 5mm, double 10mm etc.
As you probably know you can peel the cardboard off from foamcore, preferably by leaving one side intact as backing and carefully wetting the other for removal. Waterbased paints, primers, glues and spackle can have undesired effects on the cardboard. Spray primers, both water and oil based, tend to work find if applied in several thin layers, left to set between each pass.
Styrene foamcore is not as readily available as the cardboard kind as it is more of specialist item. You cannot peel styrene sheet from plastic foamcore as it is fused with the foam and solvents will dissolve both backing and foam. This makes it a more homogenous product which can be beneficial. Styrene glue will make an excellent bond if applied to the sheet surface but beware of applying to the exposed foam as it will cause it to collapse, especially if you use a liquid glue. As with all styrene, it's slightly oily surface makes it less accepting to all paints and putties. Hobby enamels and acrylics work fine as do most other products which use polyvinyl (white glue), mild butanone (plastic glue) or oil solvent as a medium.
Double foamcore is a great product if you can make use of extra thick construction walls. Both sides can be stripped and scribed leaving the interior sandwiched cardboard layer as a strong support. I have not tried separating layers, but really do not see the point in doing so. Single thickness foamcore is cheap and easy to come by, often for free.
Although foamcore is less prone to warping than plain cardboard or corrugated ditto, it is wise to read the small print on your choice of spackle as even just a few % shrinkage could turn the foamcore, if spread on a large area, looking wonky.
-
Hammers,
Any good sources for this in Sweden?
-
It's not the best material as it's a pig to cut neatly BUT it's really easy to make stuff from!
PVA glue to stick it (I use a tiny drop of superglue to tack it then PVA tfor strength)
Needs a VERY sharp blade to cut neatly.
-
Hammers,
Any good sources for this in Sweden?
Staples, art stores. Also, I would check in with a marketing or architecural firm and ask if I could have a good root around in their garbage bin.
-
It's not the best material as it's a pig to cut neatly BUT it's really easy to make stuff from!
PVA glue to stick it (I use a tiny drop of superglue to tack it then PVA tfor strength)
Needs a VERY sharp blade to cut neatly.
I don't agree that it is difficult to work with but a sharp blade is indeed needed.