Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: dan97526 on 22 August 2016, 06:16:38 AM
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If you use Foundry paints, do you thin them? I'm having some difficulty with them.
Thanks,
Dan
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If you use Foundry paints, do you thin them? I'm having some difficulty with them.
Thanks,
Dan
For me it depends on the color (which may be linked to the age of the paints I have?). I usually have to slightly thin most brownish triads apart from the leather variant. Reds are used right out of the pot. One or two triads are too thin for my liking (Equipment black being the main offender) and don't get used.
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Yes always
Put some on a pallet, don't use them straight from the pot
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For me it depends on the color (which may be linked to the age of the paints I have?). I usually have to slightly thin most brownish triads apart from the leather variant. Reds are used right out of the pot. One or two triads are too thin for my liking (Equipment black being the main offender) and don't get used.
I agree, some need thinning, others are thin enough. Craft paint always needs thinning as its like paste, but the Foundry stuff varies widely.
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I received the full set of paints as a birthday present from my wife - I've had no trouble at all with them, and so far I've tried over 40 (sad to say, I only finished 13 models with 40 paints, and most of these 13 were repaints.... ;D )
Some are thinner, but not that disturbingly thin. I work off a black u/c in many cases, although if I'm using light coours I give a white drybrush. I'm also trying a heavy black wash on white u/c and then applying the chosen colours - just one model in progress, so the verdict is not out yet - but the lighter colours I'm using seem to be getting applied quite well.
So far I tried most out of pot, just one or two on palette to control very small volumes andensuring a dryer application.
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First, I'd recommend using agitators in them. I use pieces of metal sprue which I simply dunk in. Works really well to get an even mix when shaking. Some of them really need this (for example, the flesh tones or canvas) to get a good coverage.
Often I use a "Pallet"; a strip of plastic or cardboard I have nearby, nothing fancy. In the past 20 years I have used about anything as pallet :D. But sometimes I use it straight from the pot.
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The majority of the original range are excellent, cover well though do have a slight sheen which is easily matted down by adding a little Tamiya X21 Flat Base - do not over do it as it become chalky if you add too much, you will need to experiment to find how much suits your painting style.
The later Naps colours are not bad but the WWII are a bit hit and miss.
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Thanks, everyone. The answers were really helpful. Hearing from all of you I now realize that my experience has been similar - some are great straight out of the pot, others a little thick, some don't cover well at all. It never occurred to me that it the issues I've been having weren't consistent across all triads.
I'm used to Vallejo, which I always thin about 1:1. Vallejo seems to be very consistent in it's behavior across the entire palette, metallics excepted. I'm afraid that what I've read online and my experience with Vallejo left me with the impression that all paints must be thinned every time.
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The majority of the original range are excellent, cover well though do have a slight sheen which is easily matted down by adding a little Tamiya X21 Flat Base - do not over do it as it become chalky if you add too much, you will need to experiment to find how much suits your painting style.
Thanks for this tip. I painted a medieval infantryman with the Winestain Red Triad and found the colors and satin finish just a little too bold for my taste. I have some flat base and I'll try it out.
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Going back to the start of this thread you asked about thinning Foundry paints - I always thin all my Foundry, Vallejo, Reaper and Coat d'Arms paints.
I use a pre-prepared concoction of retarder, flattening agent and flow extender mixed with filtered water.
To dispense the mixture I use an eye dropper or syringe.