Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Pikes, Muskets and Flouncy Shirts => Topic started by: Silent Invader on 23 December 2016, 11:29:04 AM
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EDIT
Page 13 - update with replaced images
A new 'all plastic' project: my 2nd foray into the FIW.
I'll be using my The North terrain with added tiles for a bay and woods.
For the minis I'll be using plastics from the Warlord Games AWI sprues, and I have parts for about 50 minis that I'll get my hands on on Sunday morning.
In the meantime, I made a couple of batteau that will each take up to 6 minis on 20mm bases.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_23_12_16_12_15_34_0.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_23_12_16_12_15_34_1.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_23_12_16_12_15_33_2.JPG)
The prepaint assemblies, each made from parts taken from a 1/150 sail boat kit plus a bit of plasticard (some crooked lines as little was measured):
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_23_12_16_12_15_33_3.JPG)
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They look great Steve :-*
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They look great Steve :-*
Thanks Richard
ps: I'd not really noticed before but you have a lot of LAF badges! 8)
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Lovely boats Steve the weathering is spot on :-*
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Nice work on those boats :-*
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Cracking work mate 8) 8)
(Nick is on the piss so expect a garbled message later in the day ::) lol )
cheers
James
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That look great, sir!
Nice conversion work.
8) 8)
Another all-plastic project?
I think that you need a new name..... ;)
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ps: I'd not really noticed before but you have a lot of LAF badges! 8)
That's cos I've been here for quite a long time ;)
Looking forward to this project Steve. Your North terrain, with some added forest, should suit perfectly for the F&IW.
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Great looking boats.
Well done.
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Boats are great cracking work Steve :-* :-* :-*
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Cracking work mate 8) 8)
(Nick is on the piss so expect a garbled message later in the day ::) lol )
cheers
James
Yes, I may have been enjoying a couple of festive sherberts. ;D
I am however sober enough to appreciate another fine SI build. Ingenious work Steve, your ability to churn stuff out at such a high level always amazes me. :-*
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The bateau or is that bateaux are looking good. I was a big fan of your 1st FIW project and took lots of inspiration from it so am looking forward to more of this.
Just read part of your blog a couple of days ago and your northern board is excellent, I like the way the edges of the boards mate up because you have used static grass to blur the sides a little. I think it makes a big difference - certainly from the photos I saw.
Cheers
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Thanks everyone for all the interest.
@ Vagabond: thanks and yep the static grass does the trick of obscuring the join. Quite a few people on this thread have seeen The North boards 'in the flesh' and so will know they're not perfectly level. ;) :D
Lovely boats Steve the weathering is spot on :-*
Thanks Jeff :)
In case any one is interested, the process was:
Paint Chocolate Brown
Wash Agrax Nightshade
Dry Brush US Field Drab
Dry Brush Grey Green
Dry Brush Sea Grey
Dry Brush Sky Grey
A bit convoluted I know but I was just playing around until it looked right. I shall probably use the same on the wood for the blockhouse (which, to try something different, will probably be made from leftover sprues frames for timbers).
Edited for typo
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Quite a few people on this thread have seeen The North boards 'in the flesh' and so will know they're not perfectly level. ;) :D
Not much ever is :D
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Superb work
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:o Fantastic. Which boats do you use for this project?
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Thanks all :D
:o Fantastic. Which boats do you use for this project?
They're each from a
Heller 1/150 Corsair
I didn't buy them specifically, I just happened to be rooting around for something else and found a partially assembled one in the bits box. A lengthways slice of the hull looked promising for a bateau (though I did add 3cm inserts from deck planks to accommodate an extra mini) and as it worked I dug out the second kit I already had and made that in the same style. All-in-all, most enjoyable usage of prior purchases. ;) :)
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Off to a great start with the boats! 8)
Will follow keenly :D
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Ta :D
As mentioned previously, I'll be using my The North terrain for this project, but will be adding extra tiles that will also be useful for the other projects its shared with (GOT, WotR, Jamestown).
The tiles aren't well forested, which was/is a conundrum, though I have taken heart from reading that pre-colonised NE USA wasn't as totally and completely covered in trees as the movie Last of the Mohicans might have suggested, with areas having been cleared for agriculture by a combination of ring-barking (called girdling in the US?) and burning followed by natural regrowth. For a slightly different take on the FIW I'm therefore planning open areas and relatively short-lived trees. Others' views on the 'purity' of this - conflicting or otherwise - are always appreciated! ;) :D
Anyways, the plan showing existing and proposed tiles (the green 'circles' are obviously trees):
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_24_12_16_1_52_56_0.jpg)
I already have the trees, which are by my favourite supplier
www.themodeltreeshop.co.uk (http://www.themodeltreeshop.co.uk)
who was recommended to me by Jimbibbly. I particularly like the Twisted Wire trees, which I 'plant' in spigots in the tiles and remove for storage/swapping.
For completeness (to save anyone interested looking elsewhere) the following images show show some of the existing tiles that will be used;
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_24_12_16_1_52_56_1.jpg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_24_12_16_1_52_56_2.jpg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_24_12_16_1_52_56_3.jpg)
I'll be adding a 'loose' blockhouse and possibly also a frontier homestead or trading post, for variety. I won't be rushing ahead with the new tiles though, as the minis (and other projects) will slip in and out of priority so this is just to give a sense of where the project is headed. :)
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Wow -- it all looks great! Especially the boats. Those look spot-on. I agree that the weathering is fantastic.
As for the proliferation of trees, it all depends on what part of North America you are recreating. If most of your battles are going to be raids on settlements and such, then you are quite right to have relatively open boards. Even Native American towns are going to have cleared fields surrounding them.
Great job -- I look forward to watching this thread as your project grows...
Mike Demana
www.firstcommandwargames.com
http://leadlegionaries.blogspot.com/
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/mikedemana/Miscellaneous/LPL_bades_zpsl7op2jaz.jpg)
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Cheers Mike! Very much appreciate the comments about settled areas, which has me thinking about scenarios. 8)
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Those are great terrain boards - I especially like the rocky out crops.
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Nice to see how the new boards will be integrated with the old. :)
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Thanks Nick, with apologies for the late reply. My only excuse is that over the holidays I've been sticking together:
25 Woodland Indians
5 Coureur Des Bois
1 officer of the Compagnies Franches de la Marine
31 TOTAL
Versus
5 British-American Colonists (male)
2 British-American Colonists (female)
1 Tracker/Scout
1 officer of the 44th (Essex) Regiment of Foot
10 men of the 44th (Essex) Regiment of Foot
19 TOTAL
Anyways, have started on the extra terrain. Here's an image of the additional section of cliff with rockfall. Or rather, a very purple chopped up Yoga Block between foamboard templates cut to match the tiles they'll butt up against:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_03_01_17_5_41_05.JPG)
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a very purple chopped up Yoga Block
Question of the day. What's one of them ???
cheers
James
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Question of the day. What's one of them ???
cheers
James
They're EVA foam blocks used to facilitate stretching in yoga (for example if you can't bend far enough to touch the floor). One of the daughters bought some from China and then got bored with yoga..... so I repurposed it. ;) :D
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Wow. That is vivid! Is it slightly spongy? Presumably won't matter once you've covered it with filler and texture...
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Wow. That is vivid! Is it slightly spongy? Presumably won't matter once you've covered it with filler and texture...
Not really spongy - dense so that it doesn't compress but soft to the touch. Sticks well with UHU and seems to take PVA (I'll know for sure later). But yeah, it'll be covered in filler, glue and sand so will transform idc. :D
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Ah, it's a type of callogen foam.We use 5mm thick sheets of that at work for making transport friendly packing boxes.
Careful it doesn't flex tough as you'll get cracks in your texture.
cheers
James
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Ah, it's a type of callogen foam.We use 5mm thick sheets of that at work for making transport friendly packing boxes.
Careful it doesn't flex tough as you'll get cracks in your texture.
cheers
James
Thanks for the tip. It's stuck to the 6mm MDF so it should be ok.
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Am not going to show a stage-by-stage with this project but given the discussion about the yoga block above, it's worth updating that the UHU does the job of holding the EVA to the MDF, and the Evostik does the job of gluing the foam board and cork to the EVA.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_04_01_17_7_51_53.JPG)
The filler will be applied over a smear of the Evostik so I'm confident that it will take to the EVA as well.
:)
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Looks very promising mate :)
cheers
James
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Will look grand when it's ready!
I think my missus would notice if I nicked her yoga roll... but it sure is a tempting idea :D
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Thanks chaps ;)
I think my missus would notice if I nicked her yoga roll... but it sure is a tempting idea :D
lol
Don't let me encourage you!
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Coming along nicely. :)
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I thank you. :D
As an aside, yoga blocks also make great tree holders!!
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_05_01_17_11_33_14.JPG)
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lol
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Those trees look lovely. Are they homegrown?
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Those trees look lovely. Are they homegrown?
They're not made by me. They come from
https://www.themodeltreeshop.co.uk (https://www.themodeltreeshop.co.uk)
who Jimbob introduced me to. There were a few on the board you played at BLAM.
The bigger they get the more expensive they get (obviously) but fortunately I'm a fan of the small footprint that looks pretty :D
Incidentally, I realised that I need to expand the rules a tad to better accommodate natives moving in and shooting from woodland, so I'm going to add something along the lines of the following:
Beneath a tree crown or within 2" of its trunk (whichever is the greater) counts as woodland unless specified otherwise.
If the players designate that it constitutes woodland or similar close terrain, Natives (and those with Native skills) may take the moving and shooting parts of their turn at the outside of the table edge, subject to any standard restrictions that apply. While off-table in this way, they are deemed to be out of sight and cannot be targeted for shooting except at positions from which they have already revealed their approximate location by their own prior act of shooting (or some similar reveal). Minis that are off-table in this way cannot fight while off-table but can move on-table to do so. If desired, such off-table units can be replaced by hiding markers to be used in the normal way.
The intent is to suggest that the relatively open board exists within dense woodland that is the natural terrain of the Natives and which is available to them to exploit.
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Thanks for the link to tree shoppe, have been looking for good birch trees for ages, I guess that's one place where to find them.
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Thanks for the link to tree shoppe, have been looking for good birch trees for ages, I guess that's one place where to find them.
You're welcome. :)
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An update on the overall terrain progress showing (from rear left to front):
1) the basic rock face before adding boulders and scree to the slopes
2) the sockets for the trees, before trimming flush
3) the lake with finer sand to the beach and riverbed
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_05_01_17_10_30_46.JPG)
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Excellent progress Steve.
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Love the boats.
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Thanks to you both :)
Love the boats.
The beach and lake are really just to justify having the boats ;) :D
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Love the new tiles, especially the lakeside parts.
:-* :-*
The experiment with the Yoga Cake seems to have worked out really well.
8)
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Yep,use of yoga block was inspired and is turning out great :-*
However,I can't help thinking that somewhere down the line a voice will say
"dad,I'm starting back at yoga,you haven't seen my block anywhere ?" lol
Great job Steve :)
Cheers
Keith
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Love the new tiles, especially the lakeside parts.
:-* :-*
The experiment with the Yoga Cake seems to have worked out really well.
8)
Yoga Cake? Have you been enrolled into Malamute's School of Typographical Errors?! lol
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Yep,use of yoga block was inspired and is turning out great :-*
However,I can't help thinking that somewhere down the line a voice will say
"dad,I'm starting back at yoga,you haven't seen my block anywhere ?" lol
Great job Steve :)
Cheers
Keith
lol
I'll have to paint a cardboard box purple and hope she doesn't notice :D
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lol
I'll have to paint a cardboard box purple and hope she doesn't notice :D
lol ever the optimist :D
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:D
I really am *not* posting stage-by-stage on this but something worth showing is the scree slope
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_06_01_17_4_23_34.JPG)
I've found tearing lumps from dense corks (such as from Prosseco) makes for more rounded boulders with the cork crumbling when attacked with a wide-tooth saw (such as a pruning saw) for making the scree. For rock faces with strata, cracks and other interesting features, standard wine bottle corks are better as they are less dense and so break apart with sharper, more defined edges.
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simply awesome
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Not half bad ;D
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I really like the look.
Most excellent.
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Thanks chaps, much appreciated :D
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Brilliant :-*
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Looking really good Steve. Can I ask, what are the white tubes sunken into the board for?
Sorry you've probably already explained.
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Thanks Richard and Andy :)
Andy, the sockets will each take a tree fitted with a plug, so that they will remove for storage, swapping around, etc.
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This is coming on really well, looking forward to the watery bit.
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Thanks Richard and Andy :)
Andy, the sockets will each take a tree fitted with a plug, so that they will remove for storage, swapping around, etc.
Intriguing, I'm looking forward to seeing this.
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Yoga Cake? Have you been enrolled into Malamute's School of Typographical Errors?! lol
No.
I dont use predictive text like some of these posh types.
Any errors are strictly my own.
Yoga Cake was not an error, however, but completely intentional.
:D
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Thanks chaps :D
Andy, the board you saw at BLAM16 had its trees done in the same way.
No.
I dont use predictive text like some of these posh types.
Any errors are strictly my own.
Yoga Cake was not an error, however, but completely intentional.
:D
None of those high-falutin' ways you'll find west of London, eh?! :D
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None of those high-falutin' ways you'll find west of London, eh?! :D
Dems da wuns.
Weirdo's!
;D
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Dems da wuns.
Weirdo's!
;D
Civilised you mean? :D
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Looks splendid Steve 8) 8) 8)
cheers
James
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Civilised you mean? :D
If that is what being unable to use predictive text means, then...Yes.
:D
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Apologies for resurrecting the gloop versus scatter debate but as I was progressing the tiles over the weekend something occurred to me. Namely, I'm not actually sure that my use of scatter results in any more significant granularity*, versus gloop. :o
This terrain, after two coats of acrylic from The Works, doesn't look to me to be more granular than glooped examples I've seen:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_09_01_17_12_47_26.JPG)
*Ignore the bumps, lumps and ridges as they are a consequence of me scattering additional sand.
If the results are similar, then it could be because after the initial scatter, I then 'splodge' on 50% dilute glue with more sand, which I suppose could just be called adding colourless gloop!!!! And when it's dry I then paint it...... lol
It's not quite as simple as that though, as I do scatter extra sand of different grades into some areas of this gloop, for specific terrain effects. Nevertheless, a glooper could simply scatter into their single layer of wet gloop, so it could be said that my approach is significantly less efficient as it takes more stages. However, there's one difference between my initially-sanded tiles and those of most gloopers: in the main I am applying onto MDF rather than onto foam. Adding the first sanded layer, for which the glue has minimal water content and cures watertight, creates a barrier for the much 'wetter' coats that follow and could* otherwise cause significant warping of the MDF.
*The significance depending on what terrain features, if any, and their placement have added rigidty to the tile
In terms of next steps, as these tiles have quite a carpet of grass, they'll only get the one dry brush. The next question might then be: so why do these Temperate tiles have any granularity at all? Well, I think it provides a key, it does help with dry brushing, the electrostatic flock seems to 'stand' better with the what in effect are thousands of small 'planting' holes, and of course I can use different sands for different terrain features (e.g., river beds/banks and well-trodden tracks tend to be made a lot smoother than rough ground).
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Maybe it's scloop or glatter :D
Looks very good though, whatever it is 8)
cheers
James
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Maybe it's scloop or glatter :D
I'll take scloop.... I'm a sclooper! :D
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Yes, I think you're right Steve. The end result looks almost exactly the same as my gloop when it dries...
That said, I was looking at Andy Mac's excellent desert boards for inspiration, and note he's managed to achieve a very nice sandy texture on those, so Andy, if you're reading this, please share your secret! ;)
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Looking at Andy's thread, I think he's scattered on Sharp Sand without sieving it first. His colouring-in is also excellent: the wash making best use of the granulation.
Anyways: progress! :D
While awaiting delivery of 36" of greenstuff for a myriad of conversion projects, I've finished painting the 4 new boards. Next up, the scree slope will get its scree in the form of fine railway ballast (in grey, by Peco) then it'll be a case of adding vegetation, water and finally the tree-planting.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_10_01_17_1_13_54.JPG)
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Looking very good 8)
cheers
James
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Looking very good 8)
cheers
James
Seconded ;D
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I was going say 'Thirded' but I reckon telling you that it looks the 'Nuts' would be better.
8) 8)
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It most certainly looks like the animals appendage.
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Wow. Just read through this thread having not picked up on it before. Your progress is both impressive and rapid. I really like the look of your boards, they have that 'natural' quality that's often hard to achieve whilst maintaining flexibility. The modular set up combines aesthetics with playability nicely.
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Thanks kindly chaps. :D
I've now lobbed a load of fine ballast onto it so that the scree slope is less stepped and more 'flowing'. What this does mean, of course, is that a fair bit of crumbled cork that I glued down then painted has now disappeared from sight. Trouble is I never really know how the details will work until I actually do them. :)
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Quick update with, now that the glue has dried, a photo of the scree slope.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_12_01_17_8_49_40.JPG)
Next stage will be to add all the vegetation. I'd have done that by now except I've been distracted by building a dragon...... :D
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Looking good, makes me want to get back to doing my boards.
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I did like this before, but I can see why you moved it on. Depending on how many scree runners have been down it the finer stuff ends nearer to the foot of the slope. Looking good.
Still looking forward to the watery bits :)
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Thanks chaps :)
It's worth me adding that I wanted this tile to look very different from other raised sections: a scar on the landscape.
And Jeff: do crack on with the tiles, you'll be glad you did. ;)
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That cliff looks great mate! :-*
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Ace scree slope Steve :-*
I look forward to trying to balance figures on it! lol
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Thanks chaps :D
I look forward to trying to balance figures on it! lol
They'll stand where they can (with GOT minis and WIP dragon as I don't have any FIW to hand) ;) :D :
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_14_01_17_3_19_15_1.JPG)
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Whoooaaa! dragon?.. :o
That's looking ace Steve. ;D
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Whoooaaa! dragon?.. :o
That's looking ace Steve. ;D
lol
There's this thing on at the mo called the Build Something Competition ;)
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That looks very realistic.
Well worth the added time and attention to detail.
8) 8)
lol
There's this thing on at the mo called the Build Something Competition ;)
You knows these 'civilised' types...?
They only live under the best rocks....
;D
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Scree works a treat mate, reminds me of a few areas up in the lakes 8) 8)
cheers
James
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:D
Scree works a treat mate, reminds me of a few areas up in the lakes 8) 8)
Over the weekend I've been adding vegetation while binge watching and being inspired by Season 3 of Vikings (and trying to resist starting a Viking project!):
Anyways, a little bit more veg to add such as leaves to the bushes and a tad more flock but nearly done:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_15_01_17_8_45_51.JPG)
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Yeah :D
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Brilliant. That's a magnificent set of boards you will have by the time you've finished. The North is getting bigger all the time :)
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Thanks again James and Richard :D
There's lots more planned for The North as most of it can be used for so many projects ;)
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That looks bloody great now, sir.
:-* :-*
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That looks bloody great now, sir.
:-* :-*
Why thank you. :D
At some point today I shall be pouring the water for the bay..... ;)
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Getting close to the end of these tiles now, which is a good thing as I'm keen to get on with GS work on minis for this and other projects.
First pour of the water with added colour has now happened. There'll be at least one more to deal with any air bubbles and contraction. The tiles are butted together to keep the masking tape barriers as 'square' as possible.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_16_01_17_12_36_04.JPG)
And, given that I've managed to get all four tiles in shot, here's a reminder of how they might be used with some of the other The North tiles for this FIW project.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_24_12_16_1_52_56_0.jpg)
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Excellent build Steve,hope that water cures ok for you :)
Cheers
Keith
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Brill :)
On first glance though I thought that was just the white sand of the beach with the tide out 8)
cheers
James
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Brill :)
On first glance though I thought that was just the white sand of the beach with the tide out 8)
cheers
James
lol
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lol
hope that water cures ok for you :)
Cheers Keith. I'm as confident as I can be. It's what I've used for all the rivers albeit never for such an expanse.
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Great work. It's really inspirational stuff. I just need to get my new house so i can start this kind of stuff :D
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Those boards are something else. I love the cliff with all that attention to getting the right amount of flock/clumps etc. Can't wait to see how the lake pans out.
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Thanks Ian and Gary :D
The water is about 1/2 way cured now so will maybe gets its second and final pour tomorrow.
On a less positive note, I knocked the tray of 50 odd minis off the table with the resulting avalanche causing some breakages. On the plus side, as they are plastic I think they can all be easily repaired. :)
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Superb looking tiles, looking forward to seeing the lake, what water effect are you using?
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Superb looking tiles, looking forward to seeing the lake, what water effect are you using?
Thanks :D
I don't use a specialist water effect. For these tiles I want a peaty water and they have only a few mm of physical depth, so for I maginary depths I paint the river bed Chocolate Brown and then pour over Evostik Extreme Wood Glue, which has been tinted with Vallejo Air Mud Brown at 5 drops to 28 ml, to a depth of say 4mm that will set back to about 2mm. I pour a couple of layers, tidying up in between and after.
For shallower areas such as beaches and fords, I obviously texture the tile first.
Here's one of the older tiles:
(https://www.silentinvader.uk/image_w_gtn_terrain_tiles_36.jpg)
NB: The white caps are silicone sealant but there won't be any in the bay
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Thanks :D
I don't use a specialist water effect. For these tiles I want a peaty water and they have only a few mm of physical depth, so for I maginary depths I paint the river bed Chocolate Brown and then pour over Evostik Extreme Wood Glue, which has been tinted with Vallejo Air Mud Brown at 5 drops to 28 ml, to a depth of say 4mm that will set back to about 2mm. I pour a couple of layers, tidying up in between and after.
For shallower areas such as beaches and fords, I obviously texture the tile first.
Here's one of the older tiles:
(https://www.silentinvader.uk/image_w_gtn_terrain_tiles_36.jpg)
NB: The white caps are silicone sealant but there won't be any in the bay
Thanks for the info, that's a very interesting idea which I shall try. Have you tried tinting the Evostik Extreme Wood Glue with a blue or a green?
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Not blue or green, no. Though for my Second Afghan War board I have used it clear:
(https://www.silentinvader.uk/image_w_saw_terrain-making_26.jpg)
EDIT: There are a couple of Evostik wood glues, the one I use for everything and more that I'd use PVA for, is the blue bottle in the top right corner:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_03_01_17_5_41_05.JPG)
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Thanks again. So, is this the one you use for the water?
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That's the one.
This is what it looks like after a partial cure of the first layer:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/26/2031_17_01_17_4_05_14.JPG)
The bubbles will disappear under the second layer.
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Excellent, thanks for your help on that. I'm away at the moment but when I get home I'm going to give that a try. Looking forward to seeing more of your work on this, very inspiring, cheers! :)
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Excellent, thanks for your help on that. I'm away at the moment but when I get home I'm going to give that a try. Looking forward to seeing more of your work on this, very inspiring, cheers! :)
You're welcome: just be sure to have a practise first so as to manage the contraction, etc. ;)
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just be sure to have a practise first so as to manage the contraction
Good point, I'll have a try on an old bit of MDF first. Does it cause a problem on high-density pink insulation foam (the kind they used to sell in Wickes)?
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Good point, I'll have a try on an old bit of MDF first. Does it cause a problem on high-density pink insulation foam (the kind they used to sell in Wickes)?
I've glued to it without problems but never actually laid a 'river' direct into it.
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Sorry, I feel like I'm hijacking your thread now!
I'll try some experiments and see what happens. many thanks for your help. :)
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You're welcome :D
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The shot at the top of the page looks wonderful. I can almost hear the roiling water!
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Wow. That is vivid! Is it slightly spongy? Presumably won't matter once you've covered it with filler and texture...
Real women use concrete blocks for yoga.
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Real women use concrete blocks for yoga.
lol
Currently binge-watching Vikings Series 4 and it's giving the clear impression that the forebears of Nordic women were attractive, sexy, fierce and as hard-as-nails...... ;) :D
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An update on the water and rectifying a balls-up.....
Caveat: the table surface is not level and 8 of the 12 tiles overhang the table edge, thus the tiles are not perfectly aligned!
I've started laying out the tiles for the first game (there are quite a few more but they don't work so well for FIW) in order to tweak matching of vegetation, rocks and water. Have to say that I'm very pleased with the vegetation and the rocks, with the new tiles working very nicfky with the old:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_20_01_17_11_17_43_2.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_20_01_17_11_48_40.JPG)
The edges of the water have contracted nicely and just need trimming back and some infill in places to fill gaps:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_20_01_17_11_17_42_1.JPG)
The balls-up is with regard to the older water tiles. I sprayed all the tiles with a Matt hairspray as a fixative for any stray flock fibres but it took the sheen off the water. So I'd gloss varnished the water. Big mistake! There seems to have been a reaction over time and some lifting of the varnish with the old water now having a grey sheen to it. Clearly I need to do some rectification which might just amount to a wipe with white spirit or even a new top coat of the water. Ho hum.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_20_01_17_11_17_42_0.JPG)
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That looks exceedingly good!
:-* :-*
Do you also make cakes, sir?
;)
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The tiles are looking great. I think this might be the way forward for me, certainly easier to store.
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absolutely fantastic work! :-*
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All looking jolly nice 8)
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All looking jolly nice 8)
It is indeed. This has a distinctive 'Silent Invader' style which I very much like.
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Phew ! Pleased that "water" cured ok,I was worried lol
Seriously though,all looking great Steve :)
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Thanks folks, much appreciated :D
The new water is doing fine but the old water is still a problem. Gawd knows what I was thinking of when I coated a water-based product with a non-breathing solvent-based skin, probably before it had 100% dried.
Anyways, I've scraped the bulk of the varnish away and experiment has shown that I can recolour with a top up (though of course this will add extra depth). More soon.
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So I gave the entire waterworks a top up, which should work albeit its added more depth which has eaten into my bank, rocks, wave crests, etc.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_21_01_17_2_50_43.JPG)
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Bloody marvelous :)
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So I gave the entire waterworks a top up, which should work albeit its added more depth which has eaten into my bank, rocks, wave crests, etc.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_21_01_17_2_50_43.JPG)
Oh no ! More worrying for me then lol
I'm sure it'll turn out fine Steve,the boards are looking great :)
Cheers
Keith
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So does this wood glue not warp the boards when applied like this?
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Thanks for the comments folks :)
Keith: deep breath and ..... calm.... lol
So does this wood glue not warp the boards when applied like this?
Simplistically, without framing* there's always the risk of warpage. It's just a matter of eliminating or managing it as part of the overall tile build. In any event, if every tile is equally warped to a small degree then the overall visual effect can be that they are not.
In terms of elimination and management with regard to water features, I favour smaller, square tiles with a shallow pour and with some terrain features as 'stiffeners' to either side. There'll still be a draw with the first pour as it contracts and pulls the sides in but I usually bend the board over a table edge to flex it back as level as I can. It'll be interesting to see how the bay turns out as that is a very large pour.
*So I should frame then, right? Except framing adds weight and depth to the tile. Not so much per tile but I have well in excess of 100 tiles of 30cm sq, ranging from say 3cm depth to 30cm depth.
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That looks great! We need something like that to playtest our canoe rules. We were just having a talk about a running fight in canoes down a river to lake. Where are you located? Anywhere near Canada?
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That looks great! We need something like that to playtest our canoe rules. We were just having a talk about a running fight in canoes down a river to lake. Where are you located? Anywhere near Canada?
Thanks :)
Not in North America but the UK :D
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Many years ago there was a blog that had a canoe race set of rules. I'll see if I can find my electronic copy.
That looks great! We need something like that to playtest our canoe rules. We were just having a talk about a running fight in canoes down a river to lake. Where are you located? Anywhere near Canada?
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Many years ago there was a blog that had a canoe race set of rules. I'll see if I can find my electronic copy.
I recall that too
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What an absolutely beautiful table :-*
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Thank you Manatic :D
Anyways, to ease anxieties ( ;)), here's the water some 24 hours later:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_1_19_24_3.JPG)
It's still got a bit of uncured white in it in places but all seems headed in the right direction. There is a slightly different colour between river and bay from directly overhead but I don't want to add more to the depth of product (and I rarely take overhead shots so it doesn't really matter anyway).
Here's the residual glue dried in the pot, showing the effect of 28 drops of Vallejo Air Mud Brown to 28ml of the glue. Also, the dried glue peeled from the pot, in case of interest.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_1_19_24_2.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_1_19_24_1.JPG)
A bonus is that applying this layer of the glue over the silicone sealant waves and white tops has actually improved their appearance:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_1_19_24_0.JPG)
Nb: when I've finished, I will update the technique as recorded in the PLog.
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Looks great Matey. ;D
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Looks great!
Is this glue the same consistency as PVA?
Did you 'pour' it like most water modelling effects, and if so did it naturally flow to where it was needed?
What about the surface? It is 'flat' or not, and did you have to do anything to it to get natural looking ripples and waves? I imagine you want a fast-flowing river look rather than still water.
I'm asking all these questions because I am weighing up options for when I do my own rivers someday soon. :)
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Thank you Manatic :D
Anyways, to ease anxieties ( ;)), here's the water some 24 hours adventure.de/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_1_19_24_2.JPG[/
lol that's a relief,can rest easy now :D
Seriously Steve I now think it's looking even better ,great work :)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_1_19_24_0.JPG)
Nb: when I've finished, I will update the technique as recorded in the PLog.
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Bit of heavy rain lately... creek is silted-up.
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Thanks Nick and Keith. ;)
Charlie, I'll answer the specific questions within the quote but I just wanted to add:
1) I'm not recommending anyone else use this glue or technique, I'm just communicating what I do
2) I do recommend that before anyone else that chooses to do so tries it, they get a small pot and practise, experiment, familiarise, etc
3) I've been using this stuff for a couple of years but I have no idea whether it will discolour or break up with age (though given it's intended use, seems unlikely)
Is this glue the same consistency as PVA?
= No. It's much thicker, probably due to a lower water content; it dries much quicker than PVA and when cured is waterproof (so unlike PVA it cannot be re-wetted).
Did you 'pour' it like most water modelling effects, and if so did it naturally flow to where it was needed?
= As it has a thicker consistency it does not flow like PVA. The deeper the pour the more readily it will flow but it's quite 'clingy' to itself and to whatever it contacts (for example, a deeper pour might flow up to rocks but not between the rocks). I usually move it around with a brush, though with deeper pours I also vibrate the tile to release bubbles and level the surface.
What about the surface? It is 'flat' or not, and did you have to do anything to it to get natural looking ripples and waves? I imagine you want a fast-flowing river look rather than still water.
= See also previous answer, where vibrating the tile will enable a reasonably flat surface. That said, this stuff contracts by I'd guess 50% so where it touches the bank it will cure with a curve upwards. The curve can be 'filled' by adding another layer. Shallower layers can be brushed into position and due to its clingy nature will create waves and other turbulence. It can be teased as it cures for more dramatic waves but I've found it easier to create these with silicone sealant (see image above) especially as you can get contrasting white within the water.
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Bit of heavy rain lately... creek is silted-up.
It's The North, it's always raining
It's not silted up, it's peat-stained
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Ah, I see. Here on the west of NA not much peat but quite a bit of silt. :D
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Ah, I see. Here on the west of NA not much peat but quite a bit of silt. :D
That I understand. :D The terrain is just generic Temperate mostly for The North (as in Games of Thrones) ..... so it doesn't so much specifically portray Colonial Virginia, New England, New York State or wherever but anywhere that will just about suit any of my similarly-set projects, such as Bodmin Moor in Cornwall, UK.
Cheating I know. But I can call it silt if that suits the FIW narrative! lol
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Well I was waiting to see the water poured and then I missed it. lol
It's looking very good, I am surprised by is contraction rate seems very high but maybe that's what gives it a good bond as glue.
You talk about silicone waves - are you using white bathroom sealant I've always found the stuff a b**tard to use - at least on bathrooms.
Just waiting to for you to push all the boards together to get rid of the gaps and take a picture - should be quite special as you have certainly captured a wild place, none of this manicured lawn terrain here.
Sorry to hear about dropping the figures, I expect that made you wince. :?
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Time to move onto the minis, which will be all plastic.
First up are the WIP Woodland Indians. All 25 are by Warlord Games, using 4 of the 6-man sprues and a single 'man in jeans and vest' from the Project Z survivors.
The survivor (who'll be the War Chief) has his arms and head from the Indian sprue. I sculpted on the shirt, gorget, powder horn, shot pouch and breachclouts.
The 24 men from the main sprue are all different. There are some athletic and aggressive poses, which I like, but the options 'as is' are also quite limiting. I made a lot of alterations, mostly requiring cutting and gluing with very little addition of GS. For example, there are no standing firing poses, for which I had to reshape shoulders and rearrange legs. All have muskets (no bows in this war band).
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_7_54_45_0.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_7_54_45_1.JPG)
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Thanks Vagabond. I'm waiting for the lake to have fully dried before I push the boards together. Might be tomorrow..... but might not! :D
Yep. Bathroom silicone but the good, mould resistant stuff. Spread a little on with the finger, push it into position then tease out wave crests with a cocktail stick. Be aware that cured silicone will not (normally) stick to cured silicone, so when adding white for the white tops, it needs to go on before the clear has set (but don't apply the white direct, only a little is required so transfer it on the cocktail stick). I think I only used the clear for the really rough areas, just adding a few white tops here and there for the rest of the river.
And yes, I winced when I dropped the minis. :o
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This Project is looking very good. :-* :-*
That converted indian is very nice.
Watching it with great interest.
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Nice work on those Indians. ;D
I wonder whether they'll be painted in time for 5th March? ;)
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Thanks Chaps. :D
The joy of plastic. :-*
I wonder whether they'll be painted in time for 5th March? ;)
Oooh..... that's an interesting question. Might be ..... can be .... will be .... ;)
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looking great....no actually fantastic
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Thanks Giles :)
Small update. The WIP French 'de la Marine' officer and 5 Canadian militia.
The Officer is converted from the WG Hessian box. The 5 militia are from the WG Colonials box. In both cases axes have been added from the Woodland Indians box with blanket rolls and satchels from a number of places.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_26_01_17_10_18_24_0.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_26_01_17_10_18_24_1.JPG)
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The terrain is finally finished - for now.... :D. What's important is that I have enough for a first game.
Btw these 4 new tiles have shown more warpage than the 100 or so I've made previously. I put it down to the gravel slope requiring a lot of glue that contracted, the woodland having so many holes for sockets so as to undermine integrity of the MDF, and the bay sections having so much water that also contracted. Anyways, despite an uneven tabletop (I should have considered my wargaming needs when we bought it!) I'm pleased with how everything has levelled out. There are of course grid lines but I'm content with those (they even help with the solo element of my rules).
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_45_15_4.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_45_15_3.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_45_15_2.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_45_15_1.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_45_15_0.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_44_31_4.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_44_31_3.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_44_30_2.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_44_30_1.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_44_30_0.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_43_38_4.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_43_38_3.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_43_38_2.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_43_38_1.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_24_01_17_3_43_38_0.JPG)
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Looks fabulous...now stick some figures on them :D
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That looks bloody good. :-*
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They all look great,water effects especially :)
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Great board, Steve. Good idea to keep the parts small and transportable...
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Marvellous as ever, Mr M.
Looking forward to a game on it :)
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Thanks chaps. :D
Colours are a bit bright in places due to the overhead lighting but I'm pleased.
Yep, it's calling out for a game and is transportable - got to finish the minis though. I'm also extremely mindful that I have other games to organise..... (note to self: test the rules sooner rather than later!)
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That looks bloody brilliant, Steve.
So versatile too.
:-* 8) :-*
Speaking of versatile: Have you considered making some modular 'jungle' scenery including plug-in palms?
I reckon these would pass well for other climes with that simple addition. That water colour would be great for other silted up areas. I am thinking Vietnam, South America, Africa, Lost Worlds ( :o) etc.
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Thanks Paul and no, I hadn't thought of plug in palms. Oh gawd, now I have an inkling to watch Platoon for the 37th* time ..... :o
*I made that number up but it's probably not far wrong. I once watched it 7 times in 10 days. We were on holiday in Portugal and it was the only English-language movie on the cable feed.
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Really great table.
Love it.
Hope you enjoy many wonderful games on it.
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That does look rather good.
And now that paul mentions it. Some palm trees and a few waves on the water and it would be safe to surf. You might even take a walk on the hills and smell the - victory.
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Outstanding!
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Yep, it's calling out for a game and is transportable -
5th March, 5th March, 5th March ;) lol
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Cracking boards Steve, this thread is full of hints, tips and inspiration.
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I turn my back for a minute and you march on 2 pages :)
its looking really good, - the grid is not too noticeable because of the way the static grass blends a bit. I don't think you could do better, its the same old problem 1 sculptured board that you can't take anywhere or some form of modularity that has lines in it :'(
The river/water is ace, looks very natural and as Paul said is transportable to many other gaming regions and periods.
Presumably you will have buildings will they have their own dedicated tiles as you have already done for the inn?
Good luck with painting the figures it sounds like you have a dead line.
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Thanks chaps :D
Yep, the grass helps with the grid. As I've said somewhere, my photography capabilities are limited so I prefer tighter shots of minis on the boards, so with low angles it's quite easy for me to forget the grids are there. If I was someone that wanted most of my images to be of the entire board then I'd have to find another system.
Yep buildings will be on separate tiles. I expect that some sort of outpost will be the first, though I don't need any for a game I have in mind, which will be a race to the boats.
Hmm, a deadline does seem to have appeared!
BTW, I blame Paul (Mason) but I succumbed and bought the parts to make about 10 US and 20 NVA.......
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I can see why you get so much done - you never sleep lol lol
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I can see why you get so much done - you never sleep lol lol
There is that! lol
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BTW, I blame Paul (Mason) but I succumbed and bought the parts to make about 10 US and 20 NVA.......
lol lol lol
Butterfly! lol
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lol lol
It reckon it WILL work well, though, Steve.
(He says in his defence.....)
:D
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lol lol
It reckon it WILL work well, though, Steve.
(He says in his defence.....)
:D
And I've ordered some palms from China. Nowhere near enough to cover the board but sufficient to test your suggestion. lol
Anyways, back to FIW, should have another update on minis soon, as I'm doing the GS on the colonials, including two females, and a Hawkeye-type. ;)
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And I've ordered some palms from China. Nowhere near enough to cover the board but sufficient to test your suggestion. lol
You will need some 'low-slung' vegetation as well, of course.
;)
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That should be relatively easy to do as a scatter Paul. :)
And back to FIW........
The 5 WG Colonials, with waistcoats extended to be more in keeping with the earlier period:
Edit: Images changed as I realised the waistcoats had been made too long.
Edit2: having looked at the photo, I realised that I hadn't altered some of the hands and had smudged some of the GS. Ho hum. Sorted now but I won't replace the image again.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_26_01_17_10_54_51_0.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_26_01_17_10_54_51_1.JPG)
Plus a pack mule, two females and a Hawkeye-type character (all 3 humans are conversions of WG Project Z minis):
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_26_01_17_10_21_21_2.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_26_01_17_10_21_20_3.JPG)
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Very well done. :-* :-*
Those conversions are great.
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Splendid, although Cora's friend looks like she has eaten rather a lot of pies :)
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Ta :D
Splendid, although Cora's friend looks like she has eaten rather a lot of pies :)
lol
I'm not sure whether to paint Cora's companion as old and stern, as a chaperone, or young and feisty, as a bad influence. I quite like the idea that she might throw a great punch. ;)
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Ach, she's a fine looking woman... ;)
Would be a good companion to my (still not yet painted) butcher here in the centre...
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/24/577_02_05_16_11_38_27_2.JPG)
Wouldn't they make a handsome couple? :D
(Actually, they'd look like quite a lot of people I see at wargames shows lol)
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lol
The miniatures dating service ..... little but not lonely.
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And not so little.
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Nice GS work, mate.
8) 8)
(But shouldn't you be assembling some VC...?)
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Ta :)
(But shouldn't you be assembling some VC...?)
Stop it!!! :D
Henceforth I shall ignore all non-FIW comments on this thread.... ;) :D
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lol lol
Only kidding, mate.
I am well aware of The Curse of the Butterfly.
::)
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Splendid, although Cora's friend looks like she has eaten rather a lot of pies :)
There used to be two donkeys.
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There used to be two donkeys.
lol
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Donkey pie anyone
Well you are too late it has already been eaten
Lovely work Steve
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lol
I thought it'd be interesting for 'chase' games to have a character that doesn't move quite so fast. ;)
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They always get caught
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lol
I thought it'd be interesting for 'chase' games to have a character that doesn't move quite so fast. ;)
Well you wouldn't stop her if she bolted Steve lol
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lol
But like I said, she will throw a good punch! ;)
For completeness, the GS changes to the 11 AWI Hessians intended to turn them into FIW British. In the main, this comprised a minor mod to the tricorns, billowing the cuffs and lengthening the waistcoats. I also added shoulder lace to make 2 corporals and turned 1 into an officer.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/2031_28_01_17_7_58_43.JPG)
Next steps for this project will entail tidying up the minis then painting. I don't intend to add more minis but if I change my mind these photos will help remind me of the changes to make.
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Time moves on, plans change, etc.....
Rather than painting I'd switched over to my Nam68 project but am now taking a mojo-refresh from that by adding more minis to this project. Learning lessons from the rules for the Nam68 project, I've rejigged some of the characters and units to better work with what essentially will be the same mechanics. More on that later. Btw, I removed all my old images from LAF to my PLog (long story but mostly because when hosted by myself I can subvert Pinterest linking, which annoys me); anyways selected images are back at the end of this post, until my PLog is up to date.
The extra minis add 5 French 'marines', 2 British Infantry, a mounted British officer with dismounted alternate, two Colonial Militia, a female with musket, and a handcart (for moving supplies from the beach to the outpost that will be built idc), all from a Warlord AWI Artillery sprue and a Colonial Command sprue. There's also another native and Colonial Militia using Project Z Male Survivors and 3 Canadian Militia using Perry plastic (2 x Naps, 1 x WotR).
Here are my current favourites, sort of transplanting Blacksails pirates to the FIW, my takes on Jack Rackham, Anne Bonny and Mary Read, before greenstuff to show the parts used from a Project Z Biker Gang sprue.
Nb: Anne's whip is a token nod to Faye Dunaway in The Wicked Lady (1983)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_18_48_0.JPG)
Obviously such a piratical trio need a boat. I had a 1/200 Academy Plastics New Bedford Whaler kit to hand, so it became a skiff for waterway or coastal marauding and smuggling (or just contracted transportation as it will accommodate the handcart); shown pre GS.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_18_48_1.JPG)
For supply runs, the skiff can be escorted by the bateaux I'd already converted:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_38_38_1.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_41_46_0.JPG)
For those interested in such things, the character and unit set up is now looking like this:
Marine Lt
5 x Marines
4 x Militia
4 x Militia
14 French-Canadian minis
War chief
5 x Warriors
5 x Warriors
5 x Warriors
5 x Warriors
5 x Warriors
26 Indian minis
Characters = 2
Units = 8
Activations = max. 10
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40 French & Indian minis
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Infantry Major (+ mounted alternate)
Infantry Lt
6 x Infantry
6 x Infantry
14 British
Militia Leader
4 x Militia
4 x Militia
3 x Womenfolk (1 unarmed, 1 cleaver, 1 musket)
Scout/guide
3 x Smugglers
16 Colonial minis
Characters = 4
Units = 6
Activations = max. 10
------------------
30 British & Colonial minis
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Characters = 6
Units = 14
Activations = max. 20
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70 Total minis
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(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_38_38_2.JPG)
And as mentioned above, a reprise of selected older images:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_43_00_4.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_43_00_3.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_43_00_2.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_43_00_1.JPG)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/2031_13_05_17_5_43_00_0.JPG)
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Looking good!
It really takes a special kind to do the same project twice!
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This is such a lovely project....
the big question is are you bringing this FIW game or the Nam game to BLAM or both - we have four days of games this year to fill
talking of which I realised that you still haven't put yopurself in...I assume you are coming ?
Ps for the third day you could do GoT so we can see that fabulous dragon :D
On the fourth day you can rest
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@Tjorben
I'm very special ;)
Seriously though, I have a thing for the 18thC and with so many recent stimuli (Turn, Taboo, Harlots, Black Sails, The Revenant, etc) I couldn't resist the potential of the Warlord plastics. I parted with the last FIW project because the three elements of minis, terrain and rules weren't quite clicking how I wanted them to. That was 6 years or so ago and I've learned a lot since then so am hoping for a more lasting outcome this second time around. :D
@Giles
Haha lol
Sadly I can't commit to BLAM this year as it's on a weekend that is always busy in one way or another. It might be that as it gets closer I get a better handle on my availability but, given the uncertainty, it wouldn't be fair for me to take a slot. :'(
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Thursday or Friday??
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Great progress as always :)
cheers
James
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There is something about the original WF sculpts that I still find a little strange. I don't know if it's their skinny proportions or slightly stiff postures. But they undoubtedly look better after a bit of surgical attention from Dr Steve ;)
Still loving the fat slattern :D
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@Giles
Sorry but I can't commit to the weekdays either. Others own me for then! :)
There is something about the original WF sculpts that I still find a little strange. I don't know if it's their skinny proportions or slightly stiff postures.
I agree. They give the impression of being somewhat long-legged though I don't think they actually are. They are also slim, though that fits with my idea of the 18th century.
Compared to Perry plastics, they are generally more dynamically posed but - and it's a big but - this really does limit the 'out of the box' options. Thus attempts at surgery-free variation can result in some very strange stances and postures. On the plus side, the sprues include loads and loads of extras, which for me increases the potential for change and thus the fun to be had. :D
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I am in awe as usual. Stunning work Steve. ;D
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Great stuff, Dr Steve.
Good to see you back at this one.
Loving all the conversions, even second time around.
:-* :-*