Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Future Wars => Topic started by: Predatorpt on 23 March 2017, 03:58:46 AM
-
After years and years of buying assorted 40k models to use in other games, I've finally decided to start playing it. I was influenced by all the new fluff that's coming out from GW and the rumors that there's a a new edition coming around somewhere this summer, with simplified rules like Age of Sigmar ;D
So I've bought this box:
(http://diver.pt/img/p/2/1/2/212-thickbox_default.jpg)
And also some assorted lots of used miniatures from Ebay.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/17440122_1492963620716290_1074383914_n_zpsja904ztk.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/17431676_1492964384049547_2036508615_o_zpsmkqcmsik.jpg)
With the help of Major_Gilbear (my public thanks to him!) I've got a playing list and I'm working on assembling them, starting with the big box.
The Ebay stuff is another matter. They were really badly painted (with lots of coats of paint) and glued with what I think was wood glue. Usually I clean them with brake fluid but in this case I wanted faster results, so I just went with a "bath" of industrial acetone (dipping each part/figure during 15 seconds) and then letting them rest on Isopropyl alcohol for a couple of days. After that I just wash them in warm water with soap and scrub them with an old toothbrush. The final result I got in the figures is similar to this:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/004_zpsblzer3f2.jpg)
The vehicles are a little different, I had to use some different brushes, since the toothbrush wasn't cutting it! I ended using a brass one (for the parts you can't see when gluing the models - the brass brush slightly marks the plastic) and a nylon one
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/001_zpsjrmlzniz.jpg)
The end result is this:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/007_zpschphncoy.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/006_zpspdbhei3u.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/005_zpscim1tp72.jpg)
The only paint that I couldn't remove was the one that came into contact with the glue (don't ask me why). In fact, in some cases, the usual grey plastic is turning white but since there's no noticeable thinning/breakage/warping of the plastic, I'm not worried.
More updates soon - the fluff and some assorted "real" Space Marines, straight from their boxes, no Ebay crap ;)
-
Good grief, you sure don't do things by half measures! :D
Curious to see which chapter you'll go for. 8)
Interesting to see the cleaning results too, so thanks for posting.
-
Interesting cleaning technique on the plastic, but with good results!
-
A great start - and you're certainly brave using acetone to strip plastic miniatures!
Look forward to seeing your progress with these, and seeing what chapter you end up painting (perhaps an Ultramarines successor?). :)
-
Good luck, the clean up looks like it is working.
-
That was certainly news to me that one could use acetone on plastic miniatures.
-
Thanks for all the feedback guys. And yes, you can use acetone to clean the miniatures - I just dip the minis in it, 3 times, 5 second each. Or can just dip it during 15 seconds lol More than that and you get this:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/003_zps2mzyfstx.jpg)
With the 15 seconds dip you basically get paint sludging from the minis (have to take pictures of that). If you let them rest in isopropyl alcohol it further breaks down the paint.
Or you can just dip them in acetone, quick dip in water and some vigorous use of a toothbrush, them let them rest in the alcohol. When you take them out (I let them rest for 4 days), just use the water/toothbrush method.
-
For the rules you might want to look at 'in the emperors name' or 'kill team' - the fan created one. I believe they are better rules these days (but they are skirmish level) and overall reflect the fluff and novels etc better than the actual 40k game rules.
However, I don't play any of these these days so this is from the peanut gallery.
-
Ah yes, Captain Meltyface there is about my experience with plastic models+acetone, that's why I don't do it that way myself (too scared to lose the model).
Anyway, looks like you have lots to keep you busy, heh. :)
-
Welcome to M41! It's a great time to be starting 40k right now. Lots of really great new models, the story is moving forward (Cadia exploded, Magnus and Robute are up and about) and the new rules will hopefully cut the bloat that's seeped into 7th ed.
It's always been a fun system and universe to plan crazy scenarios and have a good time with friends and the word coming out of GW this week is that, much like Age of Sigmar, they will be supporting casual and narrative play with the new rules.
-
Using the handy Space Marines painter at BolterandChainsword I've tried my hand at scheme for my Chapter:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/gatekeepers_zpsxkj7futm.png)
Greys and blues are easy for my to paint and I have various equivalents between Vallejo Air and Color, so I can paint the vehicles with my airbrush and the figures with a brush. And since I mentioned vehicles, my scheme for them will be similar to this one, found on the Google Image search:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_3683_zpslgnzsllm.jpg)
Side/top/back door in blue, same for the front panel.
Fluff incoming in the next days, also some photos of the way I clean my figures :)
-
Your color scheme looks very good. Good contrasting colors. The cleaning technique is very interesting. Couldn't you prime your marines in the grey color with your airbrush and get highlights on them with your airbrush too would make painting them all a bit quicker.
-
Looks like a good scheme, and I always liked that "urban" Ultra scheme. Actually, I remember seeing a vehicle variation of it where the grey areas were done in low-contrast angular/splinter camo in various greys, and it looked great against the solid blue panels and white markings. "Practical" yet still heraldic, if you know what I mean?
One comment though, and it's purely practical, maybe move the grey from the shoulder pads to the backpack. This way, the white squad markings on the transfers will stand out better against the blue on the pads. :)
-
Nice stuff, and I love seeing people "rescue" miniatures! Keep it up!
-
Your color scheme looks very good. Good contrasting colors. The cleaning technique is very interesting. Couldn't you prime your marines in the grey color with your airbrush and get highlights on them with your airbrush too would make painting them all a bit quicker.
I've been thinking about doing the primer/highlight part but to be honest I still haven't enough practice with the airbrush to do something like that. In vehicles and bigger miniatures, yes. But "small" figures not so much. I only painted some Age of Sigmar Chaos guys and I didn't really like the final result (too much red contrast) :\ Maybe I'll try it this time.
Looks like a good scheme, and I always liked that "urban" Ultra scheme. Actually, I remember seeing a vehicle variation of it where the grey areas were done in low-contrast angular/splinter camo in various greys, and it looked great against the solid blue panels and white markings. "Practical" yet still heraldic, if you know what I mean?
My google-fu is failing me, I can only find Xenos vehicles in camo :( Or really old Rhinos (with very cool schemes!)
(http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/warhammer40k/images/f/fd/Rhino_Camo1b..jpg/revision/latest/scale-to-width-down/471?cb=20140602090026)
(http://img0.joyreactor.cc/pics/post/warhammer-40k-%D1%84%D1%8D%D0%BD%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%BC%D1%8B-%D0%BA%D0%B0%D0%BC%D1%83%D1%84%D0%BB%D1%8F%D0%B6-%D1%81%D0%BF%D0%B8%D0%B7%D0%B4%D0%B8%D0%BB-%D1%81%D0%B0%D0%BC-1336918.jpeg)
And I found the Raptors Chapter - http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Raptors . These guys would be way easier to paint, lol. Unfortunately Forgeworld dropped the line of decals for them :\
One comment though, and it's purely practical, maybe move the grey from the shoulder pads to the backpack. This way, the white squad markings on the transfers will stand out better against the blue on the pads. :)
Duhhh, I totally forgot about the transfers! Thanks for the suggestion, I need to give it a try in the SM painter, but I can already see that it will save me some time, having the main body and pads in blue. I'm thinking about using some of the IG decals as the Chapter symbol - the gate ones, if I can paint over the skull in the middle of it. I don't think there's a problem with that, right?
-
Ooh, original Rhino, in the days when you got three in a box.
I still have one complete, one reconstructed and one lot of bits and pieces (two were used for a steam tank).
The How to paint Citadel Tanks book has a blue/grey scheme.
-
Ooh, original Rhino, in the days when you got three in a box.
I still have one complete, one reconstructed and one lot of bits and pieces (two were used for a steam tank).
The How to paint Citadel Tanks book has a blue/grey scheme.
Thanks for the tip, I have that book! But I checked and it's only one pictures, very similar to the one I found on Google search. And after a new search on Google images, I found out that all my "inspirational" pictures come from the same source, this blog: http://heavytankbuilder.blogspot.pt/
His Ultramarines vehicles are painted in that scheme - grey and blue :-*
-
I'm on my vacations right now, so I've started working on my minis again. Since I was cleaning up a Dreadnought , I've decided to take pictures of the process.
The miniature in question, glued with a mixture of wood glue and super glue and very well painted :-X
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/001_zpsmdcmpny0.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/002_zpsrx3i3hkn.jpg)
I ended up breaking the arms while removing them
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/003_zpskiygzxye.jpg)
The feet were a pain to remove and they left these marks on the base (they were attached with wood glue mixed with brown paint for the base and the sand)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/004_zpscn01pqio.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/005_zps7sixnj0b.jpg)
The torso came apart easily
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/009_zpspfmyvsct.jpg)
So now comes the fun part. I went ahead and filled up a glass container with acetone (after making sure it was wide enough to fit the miniatures in)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170327_154704_zpsfxn9a2st.jpg)
After 3 dips of 5 seconds each, this is the "sweet point" - the paint is just breaking apart but still attached to the miniature
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170327_154815_zpsplcvsv3f.jpg)
Then I did the same for all the parts and soaked them in water with dishwasher liquid for a few minutes before giving them a good scrub with my nylon brush. This is the final result:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/010_zpswilc5tap.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/011_zpsmtqimwzo.jpg)
No loss of detail, no melted plastic, some parts are already with their original grey plastic color, other sill have blue spots and lots of black primer. The acetone is now like this
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/012_zpsv1xglzl6.jpg)
To further remove the black primer and rest of paint, I've put all the pieces in isopropilic alcohol and I'll let them rest until tomorrow
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/013_zpsxoh1jtpg.jpg)
After a few second in it, there are already some flakes of blue paint floating around and the alcohol is turning dark, a sure sign that the primer is breaking apart. Tomorrow I'll give it another vigorous scrubbing and post the results.
-
I hope you got them really cheap.
I did a better job on my first Spitfire ^___^.
-
I hope you got them really cheap.
I did a better job on my first Spitfire ^___^.
Yeah, they were cheap and the sheer amount of vehicles I got (2 Dreadnoughts; 1 Rhino; 1 Predator; 1 Land Speeder plus a Chaos bike o_o) made it worth it, even if now I'll have the trouble of stripping them of paint. And I forgot to mention the 14 Terminators (a mix of the ones from Assault on Black Reach and normal ones) included. lol
My guess is that the minis were painted by a very young kid..and maybe also assembled - that would explain why all the Assault Marines are only armed with chainswords, on both hands lol
But my workday finished with the first 40k "official" vehicle. A Razorback equipped with Assault Cannons. This is only a test fit for the vehicle, since I didn't glued it - want to keep sub-assemblies so I can paint the interior:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/014_zpsyqxcyhsu.jpg)
Of course that working with resin was a pain and I quickly remembered why I hate it.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/006_zpszcqeribb.jpg)
It took my 15 minutes to glue the ammo feeds into their slots! And every time I look at the pictures I think that the cannons aren't lined up properly
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/007_zps2fr8qqbt.jpg)
Now to get painting...Wednesday I hope. Until then I need to assemble some Tactical Squads ;)
-
If you leave the lid loose, you can swap it between an IFV (Razorback) and an APC (Rhino).
Is that a Forgeworld turret?
-
If you leave the lid loose, you can swap it between an IFV (Razorback) and an APC (Rhino).
Is that a Forgeworld turret?
Yeah, I'm thinking about not gluing the top part. As for the turret, let's just say it's from another source :-X
-
For additional turrets etc. Bitspudlo is excellent on eBay (they're a 3rd party, not a recaster).
-
Nice work (you're braver than I am with the acetone, but as you've made it work so well I'll definately consider it next time I have to strip a model).
-
Spent most of my day working on 2 Tactical Squads. And for the first time, used these 2 tools:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2534_zpsxhobivkl.jpg)
GW's Mold Line remover works like a charm and I find it easier to use than scrapping away with a X-acto blade. The fact that you can't cut yourself with that tool also makes it a total must-use in all my projects from now on. lol The razor saw is another great find, it makes it very easy to cut thin lines into plastic, like I did in this base
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2533_zpsgdwrdxsl.jpg)
And why did I do that? Because I found 2 metal SM in the middle of my Ebay haul. After a quick dip in acetone, they were fit to go. By their tabs, they were part of the old Blood Angels Death Company boxed set.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2531_zpszwbikkpd.jpg)
I removed the Blood Angels iconography from them and cut away at their tabs until I only had a little metal peg in each
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2532_zpsdanlngol.jpg)
Then I cut some parts of the bases, used a metal file to make a hole and slotted the minis there:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2537_zpsnbtx3v69.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2539_zpsnmkjkrfj.jpg)
After that it was only a matter of using the spare arms/weapons from the Tactical Squad sprues
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2541_zpsq6dxy2cx.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/IMG_2538_zps5qiufrv1.jpg)
There's a bit of gap in one of the arms of the second marine, but it will be covered with the shoulder pauldron so I'm not very worried.
Here's my first Tactical Squad (heads, backpacks, shoulder pauldrons are not glued in place for easier of painting)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/009_zpsrbtj1pi2.jpg)
The second one
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/006_zps5caeehng.jpg)
As you can see, I've mixed miniatures from both "Betrayal at Calth" and the normal Tactical Squad set. Now I just need to do another squad ;)
-
Small disaster to end the day. I was cleaning the Dreadnought while watching tv and I ended up dipping it in acetone instead of water. End result...the black primer started dissolving, along with the plastic :-[
It isn't very visible, it looks like someone primed it with a textured paint
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/001_zpszg5to18c.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/002_zpsxbogvk8w.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/003_zpsxn4jfck5.jpg)
But at least some parts are already clean!
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/004_zpsmkmjdslr.jpg)
I've dropped the dreadnought back into alcohol and I'll let it rest during a couple of days. Then I'll scrub it again and hope for the best.
-
nice progress
-
Good progress. :)
Shame about the Dreadnought though... Especially as that old AoBR model is the only way to get the plastic Multi Melta option which is the basic default weapon they come with in the army lists. :?
An alternative option could be to see if you can sand/file all the big areas smooth, and up-armour them to make an Ironclad Dreadnought conversion out of it?
I suppose that worst-case scenario you can chop it up to use as a mixture of basing features, objectives, and terrain?
Anyway, I had a look to see if I could find that blue-and-camo scheme that I mentioned earlier, but I couldn't find it. I have a feeling that I saw it about ten years ago in one of those Space Marine Collector guides that GW put out before they pretty much stopped publishing printed catalogues. I seem to remember seeing a Pre-Heresy Ultramarines army in there too, where every model was converted in some way. If I ever find it, I'll post it up for you!
-
Good progress.
You could go for the aged cast hull look. You might need to remove and replace the iconography and the "Best of Show" rosettes.
You might inspire me to finish mine off.
-
Nothing in half measure Predatorpt :D ! You did go all in. I have been having a wicked 40k modelling craving for a while now and some friends have been pressuring me ( ie twisting my rubber arms) to get to some Shadow Wars and maybe a modest army as well. I'm up in the air but sorely tempted by the Nurgle models that have been poking around but seeing a big loyalist project doesn't help me commit to a plan. Great start to an ambitious project but I don't understand why you tear down that "pro painted" dreadnought lol .
-
Good progress. :)
Shame about the Dreadnought though... Especially as that old AoBR model is the only way to get the plastic Multi Melta option which is the basic default weapon they come with in the army lists. :?
An alternative option could be to see if you can sand/file all the big areas smooth, and up-armour them to make an Ironclad Dreadnought conversion out of it?
I suppose that worst-case scenario you can chop it up to use as a mixture of basing features, objectives, and terrain?
Anyway, I had a look to see if I could find that blue-and-camo scheme that I mentioned earlier, but I couldn't find it. I have a feeling that I saw it about ten years ago in one of those Space Marine Collector guides that GW put out before they pretty much stopped publishing printed catalogues. I seem to remember seeing a Pre-Heresy Ultramarines army in there too, where every model was converted in some way. If I ever find it, I'll post it up for you!
Thanks, this project wouldn't even have started if it wasn't for you.
I've got another painted dreadnought that's going to be converted into a Ironclad. Ironically I didn't want to clean it right away since it was a bit damaged and the Ironclad wasn't a priority lol But I think I saved this one, so I'll try and paint it.
I think I can get some old Collector Guides so I'll check them out!
Good progress.
You could go for the aged cast hull look. You might need to remove and replace the iconography and the "Best of Show" rosettes.
You might inspire me to finish mine off.
I'm going to try and do that to my other dread ;) I've read some articles about giving some "cast metal" texturing to vehicles and I'll try it for my Ironclad dread. This article is basically what I'll do: http://www.scalemodellingnow.com/tbmodelconstruction-addingcasttexturetoturrets
Then I hope to see your dread finished ;)
Nothing in half measure Predatorpt :D ! You did go all in. I have been having a wicked 40k modelling craving for a while now and some friends have been pressuring me ( ie twisting my rubber arms) to get to some Shadow Wars and maybe a modest army as well. I'm up in the air but sorely tempted by the Nurgle models that have been poking around but seeing a big loyalist project doesn't help me commit to a plan. Great start to an ambitious project but I don't understand why you tear down that "pro painted" dreadnought lol .
You know, that Death Guard models they previewed are really nice, there's no harm in straying away from the light of the Golden Throne ;) "Pro-painted" armies like mine are easy to find on Ebay and are a great way to start (or in my case complement) a project.
-
So, like I said in my previous post, I managed to salvage the dreadnought. The alcohol further removed the primer and then I sanded some of it...and I'm happy with the results. In the following photos, there seems to be some pitting in the plastic but it isn't as bad as it looks (I blame it on the macro function of the camera).
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/003_zpskb0qnnrf.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/006_zpskur9dgf5.jpg)
I also finished assembling my third and final tactical squad. 30 Space Marines in roughly 4 days of work, not bad! (at least for me, lol). This time I didn't take group pictures, just some highlights that I'm "proud" of.
I made a SM using a missile launcher while kneeling, using a set of legs from the old Command Squad sprue.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/009_zpsrzl9yvs8.jpg)
Of course that then I found out that there's a pair of legs just for that in the Heavy Weapons box...but I was pretty happy until then :P
I drilled all the weapons ;D
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/010_zpsjjvldt5n.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/011_zpshxrjy1yh.jpg)
It's a pain to do it, specially getting the hole of the barrel centered. Any tips on doing that? Drilling the lateral holes seem to help but even so...maybe making a pilot hole with a small drill and then the larger one?
The 10th and final member of my 3rd Tactical Squad was a salvaged SM.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/008_zps9vwqjisc.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/007_zps4whtww5d.jpg)
There are some parts still in blue, but those are impossible to clean even with acetone since they are mixed with superglue. But since the main offenders will be covered by the shoulder pads and the head, I just need take care when paint the hand/bolter zone, checking if the blue doesn't show.
I'm going back to work on Monday so that will slow down my hobby time, but I'm hoping to assemble a drop-pod and start working on more figures (maybe the Assault Squad).
-
Excellent.
At one point the command and heavy weapon sets used the same bodies sprue, which lacked the Womble head (even though the examples on the box included one).
You can use your remaining kneeling body with one of the missile launcher from a tactical set,or with some cable modifications as a lascannon sniper (I have an unfinished Alpha legion figure that needs the cables replacing - the supplied ones foul the knee)
I have finished one dread (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/venerable-bede.html (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/venerable-bede.html)) but have at least three under construction (and a modified original) somewhere.
I am in awe of your 30 marines in four days, I have not finished this tray yet (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/work-in-glacial-progress.html (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/work-in-glacial-progress.html))
Keep up the inspiring work.
-
When I go to drill out barrels of Bolters and Lasguns I poke a small hole in the end of the barrel with either my x-acto knife or a dress pin. The plastic is soft enough that the point goes in easy, and that tiny little pilot hole is usually enough to guild the pin vice so long as I'm careful.
The amount of work your doing on this whole project is impressive.
-
Slow week for me, I'm waiting for some bits I won on Ebay, with enough parts to do all the weapons on a Dreadnaught. Meanwhile I'm only working on the old dreadnaught, doing some damage on it prior to painting.
Excellent.
At one point the command and heavy weapon sets used the same bodies sprue, which lacked the Womble head (even though the examples on the box included one).
You can use your remaining kneeling body with one of the missile launcher from a tactical set,or with some cable modifications as a lascannon sniper (I have an unfinished Alpha legion figure that needs the cables replacing - the supplied ones foul the knee)
I have finished one dread (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/venerable-bede.html (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/venerable-bede.html)) but have at least three under construction (and a modified original) somewhere.
I am in awe of your 30 marines in four days, I have not finished this tray yet (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/work-in-glacial-progress.html (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/work-in-glacial-progress.html))
Keep up the inspiring work.
Wow, you sold me the idea of the conversion with that mention of a lascannon sniper. I'll have to try that one for sure. I still haven't glued the arms for easing of painting but I can see why a bulkier weapon (or one with cables) will bash against the knee of the model :\ Get those dreads finished! The Black Templars one is already great ;) And remember that your marines are assembled and painted in some way. I only assembled 30 models, without heads or pauldrons attached so you are at least 2 steps ahead of me.
When I go to drill out barrels of Bolters and Lasguns I poke a small hole in the end of the barrel with either my x-acto knife or a dress pin. The plastic is soft enough that the point goes in easy, and that tiny little pilot hole is usually enough to guild the pin vice so long as I'm careful.
The amount of work your doing on this whole project is impressive.
I need to start doing that trick with the pin. Using a small drill for the pilot hole isn't very accurate. And I've also found out that the holes that I do seem to be very small if compared with the ones most people do. Guess bolt slugs are really big, lol.
And your output in terms of projects puts mine to shame but thanks for the compliment ;)
-
And I've been bitten by the Shadow War bug. After buying a Spanish version of the box, I ended up buying another one but this time in English! Now I have 2 gigantic boxes at home :o
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170413_235826_zpsyxczzbpg.jpg)
So now I'm working on all this great terrain
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170413_235925_zpspgofdh4w.jpg)
using magnets so I can swap the pieces around
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170414_163842_zpshmapuncp.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170414_163854_zpsmcnorpk9.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170414_163908_zpspdjeaywb.jpg)
and even stack them
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170414_163926_zpss3gcpa1o.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170414_163956_zpsng4txmzk.jpg)
In other news...while waiting for the SW boxes to arrive, I've assembled some terrain from the old Robogear boxes (Hexagon pieces only, at least for now):
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170414_004056_zps4s8rjgpf.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170414_004152_zpstljqpi8d.jpg)
Need to assemble Scouts and Orks and finish my Dreadnaughts - I now have 3 of them since I found another one in an old Robogear starter set (I was going to convert it with bits from their mechs and that's something that I need to do since its missing its feet). And I'm now the owner of a box full of Dark Templar bits and figures that I don't need o_O
-
Nice work, I'm enjoying following this project. One of the highlights of doing my rather large Eldar recovery project was the rescue aspect. It's soooo much more fun to "save" a miniature than paint a new one (to me at least). I, sadly, love the idea of saving a miniature and giving it another 10-15-20 years of tabletop service.
-
Magnetizing the caps? That's crazy. In a good way!
-
Thanks for the support gentleman. In these last days I haven't done much:
I assembled barrels (Tamiya and Italeri 1/48 and GW) because you can't have a Promethium refinery without a place to store it, right?
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170426_223403_zps7mw8pl0h.jpg)
Finally cleaned up the mold lines of the walkways (the supports are a real pain >:() and glued some of it together. Having some walkways with the support columns gives me the opportunity to assemble the terrain in various configurations. Still have some columns and an extra platform to glue.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170427_230542_zpske7omueo.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170427_231231_zpsyo4se0w4.jpg)
Still have lots of stuff to assemble :'(
-
Neat! That magnet set up will make the build and paint phase more labour intensive (more angles to see things from requires more care) but once you have it up and running it will be well worth it.
-
Neat! That magnet set up will make the build and paint phase more labour intensive (more angles to see things from requires more care) but once you have it up and running it will be well worth it.
Thanks :D The walkways were the only thing that I didn't magnetize but I have to say that if I had enough magnets for the task I would do it - most of the clips that hold the scenario together have a tendency to fall. I hope that with the painting they'll get a more snug fit. If all goes well, tomorrow I'll prime most of the scenario.
-
Ooh, original Rhino, in the days when you got three in a box.
I'm afraid the first Rhino's didn't have housings over the exhausts - they had bare mufflers. This is a later kit.
(http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/attachments/general-hobby-discussion/15445d1330210231-mk-1-rhino-not-fw-assembly-guide-needed-2-25-2012-016.jpg)
-
Looks like a good start... although talk about increasing your workload!
Having playing lots of Necromunda over the years (and other terrain-intensive games like Infinity), I personally think it's best to build the "buildings" as standalone parts, and then have the "walkways" as self-supported standalone terrain too. The walkways can then be placed between the buildings.
Now, this does limit you a bit in terms of varying the walkway height (i.e., they are all fixed at the height you modelled them at), but it's much more sturdy and the models are less likely to take a tumble if you catch the scenery with your sleeve or knock the table during play.
It also has the benefit that the walkway supports can be "filled in" to make them solid blocking terrain, or to have light scattered cover like barrels and such placed around their supporting legs. This increases the model stability further, and provides some much-needed cover too.
So if you're finding that some of the SW:A terrain is a bit rickety, this may be a good solution for you too. The scenery bases can even be rectangles of plasticard detailed and painted up like big metal plates (and will therefore suit any terrain you put them on).
What led me to try this style of terrain setup in the first place? Why all those old 1995-1997 White Dwarf mags with pictures of Necromunda in them! lol
-
I agree with Major - but I also think the GW kits are not set up to support that - though you can buy heaps of MDF walkways to link the pre-made GW sections. I think the GW stuff would make nice ornamental pieces on a much larger (much more cost efficient) MDF setup if you could paint it all to match up.
-
Major_Gilbear; Elbows - Thanks for the feedback, I really need to spend some thought and effort on how to assemble everything so I can get true "Necromunda" looking terrain, instead of just some walkways stretching to nothing, lol. When I have all the furnaces/silos/etc. assembled I'll have another go at the different configurations. And I'll also be using some stuff made by myself, like this big "silo":
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170428_223356_zpsdsuazkkq.jpg)
Like Major_Gilbear said, all those old WD inspired me to buy these 2 boxes (and some others that will be arriving soon) and the moment I saw the battle report on this month WD I had the idea about doing a similar battlefield. Since I also found out that Armageddon is the "new" name for Ullanor (and I'm finishing reading the "War of the Beast" books) my project was to build the Hexagon terrain sets as "Orkish" terrain that would be the foundations of the Mechanicus refinery stacked on top of it. Unfortunately I can't afford to have that much terrain in my house at this moment and I was forced to sell the Hexagon sets and start everything from scratch.
Since yes, I love to be overburdened with projects :D, I've also started to assemble my Scouts for the game (the Orks are another story, I bought a box full of already assembled ones some months ago, just need to stat them, lol). I have exactly 1000 points.
My Sergeant (Bolt Pistol; Chainsword) and Scout Gunner (Heavy Bolter; Photo Visor). I used a Scion beret head for the Sergeant
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170428_184219_zpsso2pc32p.jpg)
The Scout Gunner again (he's using the legs of one of Snipers- had to remove part of them so the Bolter would sit right) and my Sniper (he's the most loaded one - Sniper Rifle; Clip Harness; Telescopic Sight; Camo Gear)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170428_184232_zpshb7e5ihr.jpg)
2 Novitiates Scouts (using Scion heads for both and also legs in the case of the guy on the right. Their loadout - Boltgun; Red Dot; Camo Gear)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170428_184253_zpsruvyhrar.jpg)
Really love the Scions boxes for the sheer amount of bits and variety of poses you get. After reading some posts of Facebook groups I'm thinking about buying some Neophyte Hybrids to convert them into..something ;) Also I think I need some Steel Legion so I can run a IG force o_o
If everything goes according to my plans, next week I'll start priming everything that I did until now.
-
I love the shape of that big silo! Once you get that embellished and painted it will be an awesome stand out piece. What is it? I'd love to get my paws on some of those.
-
I love the shape of that big silo! Once you get that embellished and painted it will be an awesome stand out piece. What is it? I'd love to get my paws on some of those.
Glad you liked, I have to go to the store and see if they have more. It's a cheap garden hand pumped sprayer, bough at a Chinese store. Similar to this one:
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1YAtjNVXXXXcHXFXXq6xXFXXXi/1-5L-font-b-Hand-b-font-Pressure-font-b-Sprayer-b-font-Brass-Nozzle-font.jpg)
The plastic is rubbish and hard to cut (I removed the neck of the bottle) and it will need a good sanding before priming and painting. But I found that a cap from one of the GW silos fits just about right on the top ;)
-
Here's how the silo works with the official terrain
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170501_151020_zpsllrmnp82.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170501_151042_zpsabugjc21.jpg)
And I started painting it already. Going for a quick and dirty look - Vallejo Black Primer, followed by a quick spray of Vallejo Hull Red. Tomorrow I'll take care of the supports and then I'll drybrush everything with some metallic color.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170501_230808_zpskbtdj9co.jpg)
-
Looking great so far (please don't tempt me back into 40K ;D - 8th ed looks like enough of a change that there's a real danger).
-
Nice! The shape was awesome but it looks to be a perfect fit as well. Should blend seamlessly and hopefully set you back less than $60 a pop :D .
-
Everything here looks great. Nice job!
-
Thanks for all the feedback guys! No photos to show, but I've painted almost all the walkways and pipes. Tomorrow I'll do all the big pieces from the first box - I'm still deciding on a color scheme for them.
-
Due to hurting my back while working, I didn't paint anything else yesterday. But I bought a ultrasonic cleaner that will help me a lot with cleaning minis and my airbrush ;D
But I took some photos of my terrain - not the greatest ones (testing the camera on my smartphone), sorry for that. Here are the walkways again, in somewhat better light:
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170504_213011_zpsaeuuzstx.jpg)
And the pipes (which aren't that red in real life)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170504_213018_zps34q4yyl3.jpg)
I like the contrast with the walkways
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170504_213910_zpscxc7ntug.jpg)
More painting during next week. Until then I plan on assembling the rest of the terrain. Still not sure if I'll glue the rail guards for the walkways since it screws with the modularity of the terrain.
-
And I painted my first GW figure in years. Pity it was a Scout for Shadow War: Armageddon o_o. Still need to finish it (face; weapons, beret symbol; highlight it back after the wash) but I had to try the overall scheme for my Chapter.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/18818370_1572527996093185_1944626991_o_zpssaziuagt.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170601_224508_zpszxqmuy36.jpg)
I decided to go for an existing chapter, in this case the Raptors: http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Raptors
Went for soft green color (IDF Green from the Vallejor Air range) because I didn't want to make them similar to the Salamanders lol
-
I did think on the other thread it looked like the Raptors.
Excellent paint job and good choice of head.
Are you going to drill out the barrel?
-
I did think on the other thread it looked like the Raptors.
Excellent paint job and good choice of head.
Are you going to drill out the barrel?
Yep, it's one of the things I'll do when I have all the guys painted. Thanks for the feedback, glad you liked it and that I could get across they were Raptors!
And today I received notification that their decals are on their way. I've used this site, from Fallout Hobbies: https://www.chaptercustomizer.com/
-
And my decals arrived today (1 week from the US to Portugal, with just 1 hour in Customs is a new record for me).
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170607_152433_zpsaarojrv0.jpg)
At first glance they seem have similar quality to the FW ones. The film isn't too thick and the detail is all there. As soon as I'll use them I'll post better pictures.
-
Looking forward to seeing them on the figures.
-
They look good, like UVS I look forward to seeing them on the models.
-
Slow week...painted some terrain instead of doing decals or painting more scouts, lol. This is going to me the paint scheme for most of my industrial terrain
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170613_012714_zpsimgsrras.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170613_012833_zpsmdcujbja.jpg)
Pipes will be red; walkways mostly black/reddish and the silos/structers in this yellow. Now I just need to decide on the weathering
-
A complete silo (minus the weathering)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170613_225532_zps6goybae6.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93/predatorpt/WIP/40K/20170613_225517_zpskurv5hpv.jpg)
-
Looking good - go on, finish it :D (say's the guy who can never finish a project...!)
-
nice
-
Please bear with me while I update the pictures, since I'm not going to pay for a feature that was offered for free by Photobucket when I signed.