Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Wirelizard on April 23, 2017, 12:15:27 AM
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Tony Harwood (better known in this parish as dampfpanzerwagon) had a build article of a nice half-timber dovecote in the recent English Civil War themed issue of Wargames, Soldiers & Strategy.
Wanting more ECW scenery, I've decided to do my own version of his dovecote!
Mine is 60mm by 60mm wide/deep and 120mm tall to the current tops of the walls.
(http://i.imgur.com/59Sg3Y6.jpg)
The stonework at the base of the walls is pink styrofoam insulation, the walls are 1/16th mattboard, and the timberwork is all coffee stir sticks.
More soon, hope to get the basic structure done this weekend and then start work on the roof.
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Nice work! :)
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Nice!
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Looking really good so far.
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Looking good and thanks for the shout-out.
Tony
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Got all the half-timbering done over the weekend, and the basic roof structure installed.
(http://i.imgur.com/lhgaIZE.jpg)
28mm Warlord pikeman down on the lower right there for scale. The walls are 6cm wide, the base is about 65mm, and while I haven't measured the total height it's somewhere around 20cm or so. The main walls are 12cm top to bottom.
The stonework at the foundation has had two or three coats of white glue for strength, and I'm trying out stippling heavy coats of white glue into the panels between the timbers for texturing.
Slate tile roofing next from card, and detailing around the walls of the "tower" part of the roof.
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Got the dovecote construction finished and black primer over the whole thing. I also picked up some GW Liquid Greenstuff and tried that out to texture the wattle-and-daub panels between the timbers.
Here's the current state of the dovecote. I could almost just declare it finished right now; I'm pretty sure I've seen black-and-green halftimbered buildings before!
(http://i.imgur.com/jB2M6Sm.jpg)
I also started work on a large farmhouse. Not quite a manor house, except maybe in some really backwoods shire, but a substantial two-storey place.
Here's one end, with a 28mm Warlord pikeman for scale. I'm especially pleased with how the chimney has turned out. It's pink foam insulation, coated with liquid greenstuff, then the bricks were pressed in with the metal part of an old paintbrush.
(http://i.imgur.com/F1742Ow.jpg)
Here's the other side of the farmhouse:
(http://i.imgur.com/0KfpjcM.jpg)
More details tomorrow when I have time, but I wanted to get a few more photos up tonight!
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Looking good.
I've never used Liquid Greenstuff for texturing, but it looks like it could be a test on my next model.
Tony
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Very nice, and yes - that chimney is something to be proud of.
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Looking good :)
cheers
James
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Looking good.
I've never used Liquid Greenstuff for texturing, but it looks like it could be a test on my next model.
Tony
It's basically a tiny pot of texture paint.
It doesn't fill gaps worth a damn, despite being sold for that by GW. The gap at the bottom of the chimney, where it meets the back of the fireplace, has had two doses of liquid greenstuff and will now need real greenstuff to actually fill it in.
But the liquid greenstuff works great for texturing; I've used it over the whole chimney and to give a bit of texture to the wattle-and-daub panels between the timbering on both the dovecote and the farmhouse now.
I've also been having fun making brick and stone "stamps" out of old paintbrushes. Yank or cut the bristles out, squeeze the metal ferrule slightly with pliers to get the shape you want, push into foam or putty to get quick easy stone patterns.
The bits of stone paving in front of both doors of the farmhouse are done with a #2 brush that I turned into a cobblestone stamp; I used a slightly larger brush for a rectangular paving stone stamp; and the bricks on the chimney are done with a smaller brush (a 0, I think, but will have to check) that I turned into a brick stamp.
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In my recent order to Warbases I picked up their small church (http://war-bases.co.uk/BUILDINGS/VBCW-28MM?product_id=948), marketed for VBCW but really suitable for loads of periods and locations, being a pretty standard small stone or brick church. There's little churches like this all over the world, certainly all over North America, so having it show up in pulp games and other eras works too!
Inspired by the customer photos on Warbases' website of a considerably dressed up version of the church I've decided to do my own version.
First of all, here's the basic church propped up, only the tower and tower end wall actually assembled, for some idea of what it looks like complete.
(http://i.imgur.com/HGVKbcz.jpg)
First thing I did was add flagstone flooring to the main section and add a simple altar, as i intend to keep the roof removable for skirmish gaming. You can't really tell in the photo below but the area from the altar to the end wall behind it is raised slightly from the main floor of the rest of the church.
(http://i.imgur.com/wX79xCK.jpg)
The altar is just scrap card covered in liquid green stuff for stone texture; the flagstones are just light card.
I'm not sure about the reddish colour, although I've seen some photos of country churches in really striking reddish stone from various places in the UK, and it's a nice change from the usual greys!
More soon; I'm adding some detail to the top of the church tower, planning what I want to do for the inside walls and the windows, and planning the buttresses and other stonework details for the outer walls.
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very nice, thanks for the updating. There are a few idea's i shall apply to my next building.
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Really nice work on these!
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That's some great looking buildings, especially the Dovecote.
Stonework on churches UK have plenty of variation with some tending towards dark grey/ black or going the completely opposite way and being rendered and painted white.
RMZ
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Glad people are enjoying these, I've been doing pretty much nothing but science fiction scenery and some hills and such for the last year or two, so it's nice to get back to some rougher, different buildings like these ones.
I wrote up a blog post on the farmhouse that has some different photos (http://www.warbard.ca/2017/05/09/half-timber-farmhouse-part-one/).
For the church, I'm thinking of reddish stone with grey accents, something like this one from Shropshire:
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Cound_Church_of_St_Peter.jpg)
Or this one, also I think from Shropshire:
(http://www.sfhs.org.uk/sites/default/files/images/Church%20Aston.preview.jpg)
Shropshire has been on my mind because I've got a copy of To Settle The Crown: Waging Civil War in Shropshire, 1642-1648 (http://www.naval-military-press.com/to-settle-the-crown-waging-civil-war-in-shropshire-1642-1648.html) coming from NMP; it looked like an interesting more detailed look at the ECW on a local level.
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The farmhouse and dovecote both have paint!
(http://www.warbard.ca/files/ecw_bldg_11May2017.jpg)
More details over on the blog: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/05/11/half-timber-ecw-buildings-11-may/
I've also started a little stone-walled storehouse or hovel. It might be a bit more Dark Ages than English Civil War/17th C but stone buildings last a long time and it's been a fun quick build so far.
(http://i.imgur.com/YIybtpP.jpg)
2" wide by 3" long or so, a few bits of scrap styrofoam insulation and a piece of cardboard from the recycling bin. Towel thatch over the cardboard in due course.
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Got the small stone building finished earlier this week.
Blog thing here: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/05/17/stone-outbuilding-finished/
Here's what it looks like all finished except for the door, which went on after I took this photo.
(http://www.warbard.ca/files/hovel_3_16May2017.jpg)
The thatch is towel over corrugated cardboard, which gives it a nice thickness compared to just plain towel. A solid layer of black paint and glue was used for the basecoat after the towel was hot-glued down, and after that dried everything was drybrushed brown, tan, then white.
Stonework was drybrushed up from black through various shades of grey to white, with a few blotches of other colours over the black to add a bit of variety.
This sort of little stone building is quick, easy, and satisfying to make, it's a nice change from the bigger, more complicated buildings like the farmhouse!
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Some progress on the Warbases church. Just a super-quick update here, will expand it later!
However, photo:
(http://www.warbard.ca/files/church_1_27May2017.jpg)
And a blog post: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/05/27/warbases-church-in-progress/
More later...
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Nice work, and the Warbases tiles look effective too.
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Nice work, and the Warbases tiles look effective too.
Yeah, I'm impressed with the Warbase tiles. They're nicely cut, easy to use, and the paper/card itself has a bit of a texture to it, so it drybrushes up really nicely! They're a lot easier than cutting your own slate tiles, which I've done before and will do again, but for a roof this big the precut tiles are a godsend!
Painting of the outside of the church is just about done, the main roof is mostly painted, the tower roof has been basecoated, and the porch and porch roof has been installed and painting has started.
Main thing left to do is the flock, tufts, and such around the outside of the building to get it basically table-ready, but I still have some decisions to make about the interior and windows... Still, I really like the way it's coming together.
Here's an overhead view, from before the porch roof was glued in:
(http://www.warbard.ca/files/church_9_8.June2017.jpg)
Full article with 10 photos over on the blog: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/06/08/warbases-church-part-two/ (http://http://www.warbard.ca/2017/06/08/warbases-church-part-two/)
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The church is coming on well but I am not a big fan of the finger joints on the corners of these MDF builds.
However I really like the small stone built house you scratched, the texture on the stone as well as your painting of it has come out well.
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The church is coming on well but I am not a big fan of the finger joints on the corners of these MDF builds.
However I really like the small stone built house you scratched, the texture on the stone as well as your painting of it has come out well.
On a stone block building like this, I figure the finger joints are forgivable. I agree they can look odd on a building that's supposed to be plank-sided or something, though.
The little stone building was a fun, quick build. I might well do another cottage or something in a similar style, or a mix of stone and half-timber/wattle.
Meanwhile, this weekend I put together a little stone circle to add a touch of strangeness to some corner of our ECW battlefields. Nothing grand and brooding like Stonehenge, just four stumpy stones in a rough circle... but why do the flowers grow like that, never inside the stones?
(http://i.imgur.com/uv4YKQH.jpg)
28mm Warlord officer in the back there for scale on a 25mm wide base. The largest stone is just shorter than him; the three stubby stones are about thigh-to-waist-high. The base is a CD, of course.
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Your pink foam stonework really looks the part! :-*
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Really enjoying this,as its one of my favourite subjects.For some reason I've no longer a civil war collection to game with.
I've toyed with buying the church for a while but wasn't sure of its size but your pictures helped no end.So I've one on they way.
I'm not a fan of the mdf joints myself so I'll be covering them with waste card from cereals ,I normally use the ridges formed by the corners and cut 5mm one side of it and 7mm the other. It forms great 'L' shaped pieces to wrap around the corners.
I've a couple of pots of liquid green stuff lying around .How much coverage do you get from a pot ? As I prefer to have enough of everything in stock rather than downing tools halfway through to restock.
Mark.
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Really enjoying this,as its one of my favourite subjects.For some reason I've no longer a civil war collection to game with.
I've toyed with buying the church for a while but wasn't sure of its size but your pictures helped no end.So I've one on they way.
I'm not a fan of the mdf joints myself so I'll be covering them with waste card from cereals ,I normally use the ridges formed by the corners and cut 5mm one side of it and 7mm the other. It forms great 'L' shaped pieces to wrap around the corners.
I thought about redoing the corners, then skipped it. I've done card corners on other buildings, though.
I'm really liking the Warbases church, even without dressing it up it's a nice solid building with good proportions. Need to get on with the greenery around the outside of the thing so it can hit the table, even if I haven't finished the windows and the interior yet!
I've a couple of pots of liquid green stuff lying around .How much coverage do you get from a pot ? As I prefer to have enough of everything in stock rather than downing tools halfway through to restock.
I'm not actually sure. After doing the plaster panels on the dovecote and farmhouse as well as the farmhouse chimney I don't seem to have made much of a visible dent in the one pot of liquid greenstuff, so I think a pot will go a long way even if you start using it for scenery texturing on lots of projects.
A batch of Warbases' lasercut diamond-pane windows were in the last order to them, so I think this week I'll try and get the windows installed in the farmhouse; the openings are cut to take the Warbases windows... hopefully I got that part right, trimming them wider will be a bit of a nuisance...
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Thank you,it's good to know,as I a cunning plan in mind for late July.
I'll keep an eye out for your updates,and enjoy the way this project is unfolding.
Mark.
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So in classic butterfly wargamer style the church is still unfinished, the farmhouse still lacks windows and a roof, I've not started the additional cottages and outbuildings I want, and I'm neglecting the ECW figures needed to actually play games, but I've started another related scenery project! ;D
I've wanted to do a modular river set for years, did a small one that has since vanished (I think I left it up at the wargaming club and it went home with someone...) so this weekend I picked up a sheet of 1mm (.040) sheet plastic at the local plastic wholesaler and went at it!
The six main modules are 12" long, 6" wide, and not quite straight. The river banks are 1.5" wide and the actual river is 3" at the ends.
The two small modules are 6" long; one of them will have a bridge on it and the other a ford. The two curve pieces are 3 or 4" wide at the widest point.
(http://i.imgur.com/0Q5bRCk.jpg)
For the river banks I used cheap air drying clay, working it down over a layer of white glue so it stays attached to the plastic card. I want the whole thing to be as low-profile as possible, so the clay doesn't got right to the outer edges of the plastic.
(http://i.imgur.com/NOwuIPP.jpg)
The smaller piece in the lower right corner is a pond or swamp (haven't decided yet) I started a few days ago to test how well the plastic card + clay combo was going to hold together. It should be OK, although I am a bit concerned about the longer modules flexing when handled or in transport. We'll see how rigid they get when all the clay, glue, sand, &c &c is on them!
For water I'm thinking about using resin, possibly doing thinned 5 minute epoxy glue (it thins with paint thinner apparently?) as that's potentially cheaper than buying "proper" casting resin. I'll be experimenting with that on the pond/swamp piece long before I tackle all the river sections.
Running the numbers on the amount of resin I'll need... 7.5 linear feet (roughly) = 90" by 3" wide nominally by 1/8" deep nominally = ~33 3/4 cubic inches/557ml/~19 US fluid ounces... I might actually be better off buying resin. Will need to investigate prices.
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Construction of the stone arch bridge for my river modules is basically done.
The roadway is a couple layers of light card laminated together with glue, covered in more little card squares to look like flagstone, and then curved into place. The sides are pink styrofoam, the capping stones are matboard framing card.
(http://i.imgur.com/Evw083c.jpg)
The stonework was carved with my usual technique of Xacto knife and pencil, and then the styrofoam was covered with GW Liquid Greenstuff for additional texture and some protection.
(http://i.imgur.com/950bizx.jpg)
River banks next!
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More photos than I posed here over at a pair of blog posts!
One on the river modules: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/07/18/modular-river-part-one/
A 2nd on the bridge: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/07/20/modular-river-part-two-the-bridge-begun/
I'm not sure how much gaming time I'll have over the next week, as we're hosting my girlfriend's niece from out of town. She'll be staying in our spare room, normally my hobby cave, and I expect we'll spend a lot of time showing a nine year old from a very small village the "big city" sights!
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Teach her the wonders of city life and give her a real experience of what a sweat shop is like. You might get that church, farmhouse and additional buildings finished. :P
All in all - great progress nonetheless. It's a nice look you're achieving.
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Teach her the wonders of city life and give her a real experience of what a sweat shop is like. You might get that church, farmhouse and additional buildings finished. :P
All in all - great progress nonetheless. It's a nice look you're achieving.
Hah! The possibility of child labour had occurred to me, at least for something like putting the sand texture coat down over the river modules! lol
We shall see!
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Right, niece has been returned to her parents and progress has been made on the river project!
Here's all ten river sections all laid out. The bridge has been fully painted, and the other nine pieces are all covered in fine sand for texture. On to basecoat primer across all of them this week, hopefully, as well as completing the river banks on the bridge section then sand there so it catches up to the other sections.
(http://i.imgur.com/9XDMdmm.jpg)
More here on the blog: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/07/31/modular-river-part-three-paint-sand/
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I was away again last week on an awesome six day bike tour, so progress on gaming projects has been minimal. There has been some, though!
(http://i.imgur.com/ndVtjoR.jpg)
Black basecoat, heavy brown drybrush, lighter tan drybrush on the banks and shallow bits. The shiny thing in the centre of the photo is a 6" metal ruler, for some scale.
The bridge is a bit behind, it just got black basecoat and still needs the brown/tan layer.
After the bridge segment is done it'll be foliage and flocking across all the segments... and then the long and smelly job of epoxy resin water on all ten segments! Not particularly looking forward to that part, but it'll look good in the end!
It took about two weeks but the swampy pond I did as a test piece has finally had the epoxy resin glue water effects cure rock hard, which is promising for the future longevity of these segments.
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Daylight photo for a better sense of the colours.
(http://i.imgur.com/am2m8Dh.jpg)
The bridge piece needs another go with the tan drybrushing, but then it'll be all caught up to the rest of the project and I can get on with the flocking and foliage.
And the stinky, stinky resin water. Have I mentioned I'm not looking forward to that part even though I know it'll look good when finished? Yeah.
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Those rivers sections look fantastic. Can't wait to see them finished. I might use your ideas as a spur to get my river sorted out.
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I was away again last week on an awesome six day bike tour, so progress on gaming projects has been minimal. There has been some, though!
(http://i.imgur.com/ndVtjoR.jpg)
Black basecoat, heavy brown drybrush, lighter tan drybrush on the banks and shallow bits. The shiny thing in the centre of the photo is a 6" metal ruler, for some scale.
The bridge is a bit behind, it just got black basecoat and still needs the brown/tan layer.
After the bridge segment is done it'll be foliage and flocking across all the segments... and then the long and smelly job of epoxy resin water on all ten segments! Not particularly looking forward to that part, but it'll look good in the end!
It took about two weeks but the swampy pond I did as a test piece has finally had the epoxy resin glue water effects cure rock hard, which is promising for the future longevity of these segments.
So each river section is about size 8 1/2 to 9 UK size? ;)
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So each river section is about size 8 1/2 to 9 UK size? ;)
They'd be awfully big shoes! Each full size segment is 12" long by 6" wide; with the river proper 3" wide and each bank 1.5".
I did the water on the two small curved pieces with 5-minute epoxy glue and that worked OK, although one of them went way too lumpy and kind of matte - I'm going to have to do a skim of actual epoxy over it to clean it up.
(http://i.imgur.com/Z2rxqA9.jpg)
Three small pieces (the earlier swampy pond and these two curved segments) ate up an entire tube of 5-minute epoxy glue, though, so it was actually winding up cheaper to buy proper two-part casting epoxy - 40% off coupons for big craft stores help there, too.
I did the first full size river segment last night. I only had a very quick look at it this morning before heading to work but it looks good and my casting dams of tongue depressors, tape, and blu-tak seem to have worked - the old tray isn't visible covered in resin, at least! The ink bottles are just there to flatten that end of the segment; I'm probably going to tape future segments right to the flat bottom of the tray instead.
(http://i.imgur.com/yyXCGGP.jpg)
I did the flocking on the banks before I started the water effects, but unfortunately the matte medium layer I added to fully glue the flock down went all milky. I'm just going to redo the flock after the resin water is totally cured and hardened.
The resin is far more self-levelling than the epoxy glue, which is both good and bad. I might wind up adding some ripples with gloss medium over the resin just to give the water a bit of movement.
If I do one river segment per evening I should have the water all done sometime next week (I'm away again this weekend) and then re-doing the flocking and foliage can wait until everything has properly cured, probably the week after that!
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What an excellent thread - thank you.
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Some really nice scenery.
Interesting that you found a use for liquid green stuff. Until now, I was convinced this was the most pointless product ever.
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Some really nice scenery.
Interesting that you found a use for liquid green stuff. Until now, I was convinced this was the most pointless product ever.
I read a review somewhere that described it as "tiny texture paint" and decided that that might be useful. It's not actually useful for gap filling, though.
Here's the first resin pour mostly cured with some 28mm musketeers for scale.
(http://i.imgur.com/2Dk2T9h.jpg)
Still lots of pouring to do, especially as I can really only do one of the full size 12" segments per session due to space restrictions. This has been one of those projects that demands a lot of working space (there's ten river segments all told, six of them 12" x 6") but will take up practically no storage space once it's finished.
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That looks awesome already.
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That looks awesome already.
Thank you! I'm really pleased with how the water has turned out!
I've gotten the resin poured in all ten segments now, including doing a very thin layer across the two corner segments that I originally use epoxy glue on. That dried quite flat, not glossy like the resin, so a super-thin skim of resin was carefully added.
Here's some of the segments on my desk:
(https://i.imgur.com/xnypeI3.jpg)
I still need to clean up all the ends where the resin went a bit messy against the dam, and redo the flocking on the banks.
More photos and a blog update soon.
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The river is looking very good, I like how the river bed shows through, nothing like the rivers for here. lol
Great thread, I've been looking at it on your blog.
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Awesome - love the bridge
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Really great stuff, reminds me I need to get, or make, some better waterways for my table!
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The river came out very nice, it looks really like a shallow river, I also like that you made thids beautiful bridge as an integral river segment, very natural looking, although it will remain forever the bridge of THIS river :)
All you thread is a source of isnpiration, I wish you good luck with the continuation of your project!
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The rivers look awesome, really good water.
The resin is far more self-levelling than the epoxy glue, which is both good and bad. I might wind up adding some ripples with gloss medium over the resin just to give the water a bit of movement.
For ripples and such I always use Woodland Scenics Water Effects:
(http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/supplyimages/574635_1000_1_800.jpg)
Just squirt some on a piece of cardboard and apply it with a brush. I think it's an acrylic gel, so you could also get acrylic gel from your local art store. The stuff dries transparent (just don't apply it too thick or drying can take ages and sometimes it cracks) and is perfect for ripples. Here's an examples of a 120mm base done with acrylic gel and Water Effects (with white paint added here and there to simulate foam):
http://paintoholic.nl/images/kraken.jpg
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I've got some high gloss white glue I'll try out as ripples on one of the test pieces, but thick gloss medium or the Woodland Scenics stuff is also good to know about.
The river came out very nice, it looks really like a shallow river, I also like that you made thids beautiful bridge as an integral river segment, very natural looking, although it will remain forever the bridge of THIS river :)
All you thread is a source of isnpiration, I wish you good luck with the continuation of your project!
The bridge was quite fast and easy to construct, I'm not concerned about having to replace it if needed. Given that I wanted relatively wide banks (to help blend the river segments into the rest of the scenery better) the bridge was either going to have to be built-in or really, really long and table-dominating.
I put a few different photos and bit of additional info up on the blog, too: http://www.warbard.ca/2017/09/06/modular-river-part-seven-resin-complete/
The photos over on the blog from slightly further away than the close-up I showed above are closer to what the river will look like on the tabletop - it's quite a bit browner from a bit of a distance.
It's going to be at least a couple of weeks before I have a chance to get an actual game in, of any sort, but I'm going to try to get the river pieces finished for then so I can actually deploy them on a table...
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The resin is far more self-levelling than the epoxy glue, which is both good and bad. I might wind up adding some ripples with gloss medium over the resin just to give the water a bit of movement.
Very nice job. I love a good resin river.
The rivers look awesome, really good water.
For ripples and such I always use Woodland Scenics Water Effects:
That will work. Here is another option that will work too. This one sets a bit quicker and will permanently adhere to the resin.
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#water (http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#water)
I tend to use both materials but I use the water effects for fine texturing around stones or in fountains.
Again Great job.
Snitchy sends.
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The bridge was quite fast and easy to construct, I'm not concerned about having to replace it if needed. Given that I wanted relatively wide banks (to help blend the river segments into the rest of the scenery better) the bridge was either going to have to be built-in or really, really long and table-dominating.
I got your point and I agree. Your bridge is a table gem! Eager to see the bridge and the river in one of your next games!
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Resurrecting my own thread (for the second time, I believe...) as I've started scenery building for ECW again after a long break.
This weekend I sat down and cranked out no fewer than four new buildings. It helped that three of them were tiny wattle-and-daub hovels or labourer's cottages, of course.
(http://www.warbard.ca/files/hovels_2_25feb2018.jpg)
The buildings are 1/16th mattboard (picture framing cardboard) with wood coffee stir sticks for the half-timbering and towel for thatch on the roofs. The interiors are accessible but have no painting or details at this point.
My brother Corey has also set himself up with a 3d printer (as seen in his Build Something truck thread) and run me off a batch of wattle fencing from a Thingiverse design. I've used that to put together a couple of fenced garden plots and got the first and larger of them mostly finished this weekend.
(http://www.warbard.ca/files/garden_1_25Feb2018.jpg)
There's a few more photos and some discussion of build techniques over on the blog: http://www.warbard.ca/2018/02/25/hovels-gardens/
The fourth building is a stable to go along with the big farmhouse/manor house; I've got photos of that I need to get off my phone later today or this evening.
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Brilliant work.
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Brilliant work.
Thanks! It's nice to have a productive weekend on the scenery side of things, it's been ages (September maybe?) since I've done any scenery work.
Here's an unpainted photo of the stable. I actually got it painted last night too, but didn't get a photo.
Usual mattboard and coffee stir sticks, measuring 4" wide and 3" deep plus about another half inch or so for the bit of base extending from the front. It'll get doors on the front tonight, propped open.
(https://i.imgur.com/8LNBDuo.jpg)
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It is coming out great!
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Thanks!
I got a bunch more WIP photos of the stable up on the blog, as well as a blog post title that might amuse some folks. ;)
http://www.warbard.ca/2018/02/26/stable-genius/