Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Tutorials => Topic started by: Christian on March 26, 2009, 12:24:12 PM
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I find these quite unique to CC's figures, but basically they are little balls where the eyes are. Never seen these on any other figures, and I was just wondering how people go about painting them :)
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I remove them. Carefully with the tip of a scalpel blade.
In fact, I do this with any figure that does not have the eye sculpted “correctly.” If you paint eyes – I know that many painters don’t – it is easier to paint them in a “cleared” area.
Below a shot of some Copplestone that includes close-ups of the faces.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/orctrader/SDComp.jpg~original)
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If you are a dab hand at painting eyes then orctraders is the man to listen too.
Otherwise I'm with Captain Blood, why bother its all perspective anyway, I think my stuff has improved since I stopped worrying about eyes, just drove myself nuts and lost confidence.
dodge
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I think I'm going to start doing what Orctrader does. I just paint the eyes dark anyway.
And yeah, Mark Copplestone does have a somewhat funny way of sculpting eyes. Many of his figures end up with a somewhat beady-eyed, "inbred" look :)
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Very timely advice. I'm having a devil of a time at this very moment trying to do the eyes on a Copplestone GN9 Sleuth (Sam Spade).
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Talking of eyes...
LINK (http://www.ambers-nightsky.de/englisch/tutorials/bad_faerie/bad_faerie_augen.html)
Just look at the photos first. This is very much how I do mine. Undercoat the flesh - only. Paint the eyes. Then paint the flesh completely. Much, much easier to tidy up around the eye with flesh than trying to paint the eye in after.
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I got another little trick for the eyes that I've used lately. Paint the flesh as normal and then paint the eyes black. Finish the figure completely and give it one gloss coat as usual. Then use white to paint the corners of the eyes, leaving a black "spot" in the middle (or wherever you want it to be) for the pupil. Make sure to leave a thin black line all around the eye. Now the trick is that if you make a mistake, you can take a q-tip, make it a tiny bit damp and "erase" the white color. Rinse and repeat until satisfied. When done apply the second gloss coat on the mini and then go on as normal with the matte varnish. This works for me, doesn't necessarily have to work for you tho. :)
Oh, and of course make sure that the varnish drying times are paid attention to.
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...Then use white to paint the corners of the eyes...
Something else I should have mentioned. I never use white for the "whites" of the eyes. I use Ivory or off-white.
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Yeah, sorry... me too. I use Titanium Buff (I think it is called that) by Daler Rowney. Writing without thinking it through again... ::)
By the way, if someone wants to dip their miniature in FAP, doing the eyes after the dip is also a good idea. That way they don't go all dark and brown. And of course there is no need for a gloss coat before painting the eyes. Sadly I don't know if the humbrol gloss coat "likes" being on top of FAP after painting the eyes. I've usually only used Daler Rowney Matt Soluble varnish after doing the eyes.
PS: Too many "eyes"!
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This is very much how I do mine. Undercoat the flesh - only. Paint the eyes. Then paint the flesh completely. Much, much easier to tidy up around the eye with flesh than trying to paint the eye in after.
This is the technique I use. Unfortunately I'm not very good at it... :?
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Very nicely painted figures....thanks for sharing!!
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I dont mind Copplestone eyes , its the Hasslefree ones that drive me crazy o_o I think just a black line is going to have to do on my latest batch. ::)