Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Interwar => Topic started by: ulverston on March 30, 2019, 09:14:48 AM
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Hi Chaps,
A few years ago I read a thread on here regarding a very talented model maker who scratch built an artillery piece and tractor out of cardboard! I was wondering if anyone had done something similar for 28MM WW1 type pieces?
To explain I am inbetween projects at the moment. I have had a clearout of my models and only kept one army! I was considering 10MM world war one but my eyesight is probably not up to it. Having seen the yesteryear conversions etc I am keen just to buy a few 28MM that could be used to convert/paint etc but I play solo and need to keep costs down. I also hear that Perry may be releasing a WW1 plastic range?
I look forward to any advice or links that you Guys could offer.
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Are you thinking of these?
If so there is a tutorial over on the workbench tutorials.
Mark.
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Thats the one! Oh my days what superb work! Thanks for helping me locate it. I was hoping there may be a guide to something less ambitious as this looks very complex.
I feel like the Dean from Community when I gaze upon work like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNbeOx6pwMo
Thanks again
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On page 30 and still not found it, has anybody got a direct link please as I am being distracted by some great links I don't expect to live long enough to ever find it
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It's a little old:
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=72816.0
There's also this thread (inspired by the above thread):
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=93855.0
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Thank you so much Von you have saved what sanity I have left.
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The principles are simple and sound. So your pretty much able to build any piece of the time (As Over open sights found and ran with.)
But if you've a particular piece in mind and aren't sure . Feel free to pick my brains .
Mark.
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Thanks Mark, thats really kind of you and I am sure that I will be in contact...often! I am attempting to build a couple of 18pdrs from the first world war. The 6" howitzer would be great as well. I have the plastic tubing for barrels etc now I just need to work out a few basic sizes and shapes and I will begin. I will be using pre cut mdf wheels which are on order.
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Hi,
Well it did not take long until I asked for help! Would someone be so kind as to let me know in MM how long the barrel should be on an 18Pdr 28MM model please? I have been searching for plans for one of these and nothing actually gives dimensions!
I would be happy with approximate dimensions and it looking "about right" ... tubing has been sourced, new blades and glue but getting the actual size of the gun is proving the most difficult.
Thanks in advance Guys.
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Here you go.
96 inches is eight feet. So depending on what your using as your reference scale. For a fist attempt and for speed 6mm is easiest to get the hang of changing imperial to metric.Then your not worrying about artistic interpretation/license.
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Thanks Tin Shed, you are being extremely helpful. My math is appalling but I now have a starting point, in no way was I ever attempting a scale model, just something to put on the table... even that is a little more difficult than I anticipated though!
Again thanks for the help, if the model turns out passable I will have saved myself a small fortune (for me anyway).
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It's not you know. ;)
Your over thinking it. You'll be sat there trying to build a 13 pndr. When in reality what you need to do is build a series of squares, triangles,and circles. That glued together look a bit like a 13pndr.
So try and see each piece of the gun for what it really is. A handle is a circle with a smaller circle in the middle and sometimes a stick at one side.
The carriage is a rectangle with two triangles ( with the top point cut off.) A tube for the axle.and a tube for the trail arm with two small rectangle the bottom one with two corner cut off .towing eye is just a stick with a circle on the end.
Mark.
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Thanks Tin Shed that is re assuring.
I have the barrel part made...I have no idea how you managed this using cardboard. My model is oversized but so are a lot of the figures. I am hoping that it will just look OK for war gaming
Could I ask what you used for rivets? I believe it was nail art stuff? Not many needed for this model but it would be very handy for the future.
Thanks again
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Well I took Tin Sheds advice and broke everything down into shapes as best I could. The gun is almost complete-I have no idea how to put a pic on here but will be putting some pics on my blog when the piece and crew are complete.
Thanks again for the help Mark (Tin Shed) I will shortly have a useable 18Pdr model at virtually no cost..... next up will be a little howitzer. Very cathartic and rewarding to do this even if the end result is a bit of an ugly duckling.
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Listen to Mark - he knows what he's on about. And everyone starts somewhere. If we had a perfect result every time we tried something new this would be a very boring hobby indeed!
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Sorry I managed to turn the notifications off for your thread.
Yes nail art half beads are useful . I lost count of how many I used on The Solar boliered eatheral flyer ( I had to buy another three bags and they're approximately 1000 per bag. I've still some left some where ) They're easy enough to pick up on EBay. Down side they're tricky to use as they often refuse to go where you want as glue tension can cause them to drift once it starts to dry.Super glue will dry more slowly and around 1 in 10 will refuse to stick.
For card models you can easily use neat PVA and a cocktail stick to dab a drop onto the card.( you can slightly thicken the pva with talc. Or plaster of paris.It just raises the rivets a little higher off the card once it dries. The best way to apply these rivets is to mark out with a pen around ten points to apply glue over at a time. Then another ten points after that. Then you never loose(not for long ) where you've placed the PVA dots when they dry clear.
PVA was the method I used on the traction engine.
Another method ( especially for materials other than card.) Is to used a tube the diameter of the size of rivet you want . Then use it to press out a rivet head in the location you want it . this method uses a two part clay such as greenstuff.
Or in the case of the howitzer I made. There's often no need to use rivets as they can overpower the model.
Mark.
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Thanks for the help Mark, I really appreciate this. For myself the saving of not having to buy an artillery piece means that I can buy another infantry unit. I just ordered some mdf wheels to enable me to make some more 18 pounders. This is definitely a learning curve! Also I just purchased the nail art beads, a great tip thank you.
I have seen your steam engine but not the flyer... have you made anything else? I certainly would like to see more of your creations.
Breaking stuff down into shapes was such a useful tip by the way, thanks again for taking the time to respond.
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Just the odd dabble every now and again ;) it's not a problem I can stop anytime ;D
Sillyness aside.
I've a few threads that have been recently added to.
An armoured train on the back of beyond board.
Fokker Universal tri motor and Fokker super.
Fire Engine and ladder.
1930's Ealing inspired table wip.
All three on the Pulp board.
Theres A multi role ship that can be rigged both as a fishing boat or tramp steamer or paddle steamer.
Over on colonial adventures ,That'll be quite a while a ago so you might have trouble finding it (let me know and I'll take some more pictures and do another thread for you.)
Hard suit proxy on the future wars board.
A submarine on pulp.
The eather flyer is on VSF.
Theres a few more that I'm not sure when or where they are posted on the forum.
Plus a few tutorials and techniques for builds.
Most will probably be under a 'Tales from the tin shed' heading.
As I said I can quit any time. ;D
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Thanks for the list-this is my Saturday night sorted! Better than anything on TV.
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Don't forget your collection of Home Guard sculpts in the WWII board. lol