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Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Atheling on August 24, 2019, 08:21:23 PM
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I've been desperately searching the net for tutorials on making quality terrain tiles and I haven't come up with a thing which surprised me.
Does anyone know of any decent tutorials for building terrain tiles?
I'm kind of desperate so please, pretty please? :)
Kind Regards
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There are some top terrain builders on here so it shouldn't be too hard to find something. I've gamed on a few of them including AndyM's Dredd table and several Oshiro Model Terrain tables. Check out their threads. Oshiro also do commissions.
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There are some top terrain builders on here so it shouldn't be too hard to find something. I've gamed on a few of them including AndyM's Dredd table and several Oshiro Model Terrain tables. Check out their threads. Oshiro also do commissions.
Thanks :)
I've been in touch with a few terrain tile artists including James and I'm going to have to make up my own due to the cost. It's not that it's not worth the money, on the contrary, it most definitely is. It's the simple fact that I don't have the money :-[
I'm not actually looking for anything too complicated, good looking with a good variation of foliage, greenery, grassland etc (and a river too).
Kind Regards
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I would do you a board,gratis (I enjoy the challenge),just one problem. I’m in Australia :(
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I would do you a board,gratis (I enjoy the challenge),just one problem. I’m in Australia :(
lol Yeah, that would be a challenge lol
Very thoughtful though :)
Kind Regards
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Have you seen the MDF terrain blocks from Sally 4th? Basically an MDF kit for terrain blocks that you then just fill with the polystyrene layer of your choice. The even do a 2x2 Block now.
More details here:
https://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/epages/950003459.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950003459/Categories/TerraFormers
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Have you seen the MDF terrain blocks from Sally 4th? Basically an MDF kit for terrain blocks that you then just fill with the polystyrene layer of your choice. The even do a 2x2 Block now.
More details here:
https://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/epages/950003459.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950003459/Categories/TerraFormers
Yeah, thanks :)
I'm really looking for something that I can do myself then I've got full control over what I'm trying to model and it should, I hope work out cheaper :)
Kind Regards
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An email to let me know you’re not interested would be nice rather than finding out here.
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If you are set on terrain tiles this advise won't work, but consider going the route of a nice terrain mat - either painted canvas (about as cheap as you can get and still get something that looks good) or find one of the tutorials here on LAF for a mat using a caulk, paint, sand, and glue mix (maybe some flocking). Sure, you can't do depressed terrain features directly but you can build hills and such that match the mat and go on top of it and get pretty darn close.
Canvas - a paint drop cloth from your friendly neighborhood box store, same source for a few colors of their cheapest latex interior paint (don't let them upsell you, cheap here is best!), and some cheap brushes - and maybe a roller and pan for the first coat. This does not need flocking but there are ways to enhance if you like, such as grass tufts and such but then you might not be able to roll it up so easily.
If your budget is too tight for flocking, get hold of some 'clean' sawdust and dye with basic RIT dyes from the grocery store (one very messy job, invest in rubber gloves!!!!!!)
The canvas mat option is cheap enough you can eventually own several with some painted to match specific battlefields.
Good luck!
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An email to let me know you’re not interested would be nice rather than finding out here.
Apologies James. I have emailed a number of terrain makers and haven't got around to getting back to everyone yet.
Kind Regards
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I have a 600mm x 600mm tutorial on my teddy bear fur tiles
Cheers
Matt
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I have a 600mm x 600mm tutorial on my teddy bear fur tiles
Cheers
Matt
Have you got a link for that please Matt? I've having trouble finding it o_o
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I'm in the process of making some boards right. Now. I could take some pics if they help, though I'm already several stages in.
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I'm in the process of making some boards right. Now. I could take some pics if they help, though I'm already several stages in.
Please do so Charlie. Thanks :)
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I've used LACK tables from Ikea - they are 540mm x 540mm and are available for reasonable prices.
(https://www.ikea.com/my/en/images/products/lack-side-table__22519_PE107398_S5.JPG?f=s)
The crashed rocketship terrain board was built on one LACK table and features in the 441 issue of Miniature Wargames magazine.
See Blog for more images.
http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/2019/12/crashed-rocketship-miniature-wargames.html (http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/2019/12/crashed-rocketship-miniature-wargames.html)
Similar tables are available from B&M and Homebase.
Good luck.
Tony
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Ok, this is what I'm working on today. I applied the filler this morning - I should have snapped a quick pic beforehand, damnit!
(https://i.imgur.com/xUVwFgq.jpg)
The construction is 9mm MDF board, with a 20mm layer on top - a wooden frame around the outside, with 'blue foam' in the middle. The wooden frame is for durability, so the edges don't wear away over time. Perhaps it's not necessary. And of course the ditch is cut from the foam interior. I've just applied the first layer of filler, to smooth over gaps and add the rough shape inside the ditch (a dry ditch, rather than a water feature). Once that's dry there will be a second layer of filler to get the texture just right for drybrushing. Then it's just painting and flocking.
Perhaps you can make out the wood and foam construction from this close up pic?
(https://i.imgur.com/PGK5J0i.jpg)
Now here's the thing - to get the seams between tiles as smooth as possible, the wooden outer frame has to be very carefully positioned before you glue and screw it on. After that I do a lot of careful planing and sanding to try and get them perfect, but I think it's impossible to get them 100%, and there will always be a little visible gap between tiles. The more I can lessen it the better though.
Now if the tiles have no sunken features such as ditches and rivers, it's much easier. The MDF board becomes the 'top'. Then the wooden frame is just there to add the 20mm height, and can be set in from the edges. I hadn't realised this with the first few tiles I did... See here, two plain tiles. One has the wooden under-frame up against the edges, the other set 10mm in. If you do the latter, it means there should be next to no gap between tiles, as it's just the MDF butting up against eachother, cut perfectly square for me at my local B&Q. In addition, 'plain' tiles like this are much lighter and easier to handle (not that the 'feature tiles' are heavy at all though).
(https://i.imgur.com/5CEZ1VE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vawzN1v.jpg)
This means if I set up a 'featureless' table, i.e. no rivers etc, there are likely to be next to no visible gaps. If I set up a table with lots of 'features', ditches, rivers, etc, there are more likely to be visible gaps between tiles, especially with a 'feature-to-feature' join.
I currently have several plain tiles, some tiles with roads and narrow paths, and a few with sunken features which were a bit of an experiment I did a year or so ago when I first started this. Over christmas I plan to get the two I'm working on now done, which have narrow paths and ditches, and a ploughed field, designed to be set up in various useful configurations. I've recently come to the conclusion that the table needs to be somewhat 'cluttered' with features to look good, though not necessarily ones that effect gameplay. And if they can be built into the tiles rather than placed on top, even better. So narrow paths, shallow ditches and ploughed fields are top of my priorities right now, which when combined will break up the playing surface nicely.
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I've been searching myself for info on how to make terrain tiles without success. To reduce the weight of the boards could 3 mm MDF be used or is this prone to warping?
Also how does one store these boards, if stored vertical will they warp?
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Also how does one store these boards, if stored vertical will they warp?
If you just have 2x2 tiles, you just need a 2 foot square bit of floor somewhere.
(https://i.imgur.com/nhaArUD.jpg)
I've found the square ones don't warp if they are strengthened with the wooden frame.
However I also made some larger 2x4 ones, and have had trouble with them warping. I store them under the bed.
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Cool, there will be room in a corner to stack them up like that.
Where I plan to have several boards with raised features, around two thirds of the boards I plan to have flat. These flat ones I hoped to make two sided, as in on side Towelling (grassed) and the other desert for my Mahdist War games.
Had hoped that 3 mm MDF could be used without the need to reinforce them against warping.
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I think 3mm would definitely warp.
Having them two-sided is a nice idea, but I personally wouldn't want to do them without the reinforcing frame, which would limit how you could do the two-sided idea.
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I've used LACK tables from Ikea - they are 540mm x 540mm and are available for reasonable prices.
(https://www.ikea.com/my/en/images/products/lack-side-table__22519_PE107398_S5.JPG?f=s)
The crashed rocketship terrain board was built on one LACK table and features in the 441 issue of Miniature Wargames magazine.
See Blog for more images.
http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/2019/12/crashed-rocketship-miniature-wargames.html (http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/2019/12/crashed-rocketship-miniature-wargames.html)
Similar tables are available from B&M and Homebase.
Good luck.
Tony
Thanks for the link. funnily enough I've watched some Terrain Tutor vids on YouTube of late 8)
What a brilliant idea to use the LACK tables!! I've got one next to me with my Matcha tea resting on and the idea never even crossed my mind.
Were there any warping issues?
Did you scuff up the surface to any modelling medium being applied?
If I was to use a base of high density foam, say 25mm thick, could you foresee any problems in regard to warping?
This my be a bit of a rhetorical question but I'm going to ask it anyway (just in case!); it would be an easy task to just make up a large table with several of these?
Apologies fro all the questions. I just want to get it right the first time around as time is of the essence. (possibly the subject for a vid?)
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I've been searching myself for info on how to make terrain tiles without success. To reduce the weight of the boards could 3 mm MDF be used or is this prone to warping?
Also how does one store these boards, if stored vertical will they warp?
The general consensus seems to be at least 6mm, preferably 9mm for 2' x 2' boards.
I'm thinking of going with either the Ikea idea below or using 6mm with a frame. Nothing is written on stone yet though as I need to learn more. i've got to get it right in one go as there are time constraints :)
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I'll try to offer an answer to each of the querries.....
1 - Were there any warping issues?
A - No none and I've also used a 500mm x 1000mm table from B&M and so far no issues with warping on this larger table.
2 - Did you scuff up the surface to any modelling medium being applied?
A - Yes but just some rough sandpaper. I also recommend applying layers of torn newspaper (glued in place with PVA glue).
3 - If I was to use a base of high density foam, say 25mm thick, could you foresee any problems in regard to warping?
A - Two answers to this question. Firstly; as the LACK tables are already 40mm thick I would have thought that an extra 25mm would make them far to thick. I used MDF foam and card to build up the Crashed Rocketship board and at certain sections this was over 100mm thick - with no warping.
Secondly; the LACK table can be cut into (see article in MW for more details) so I would have recommended a thinner foam (5mm - 10mm) and cut into the table for anything else - once again no issues with warping.
4 - This my be a bit of a rhetorical question but I'm going to ask it anyway (just in case!); it would be an easy task to just make up a large table with several of these?
A - Possibly but I have found that joining the tables end to end a bit of a problem - the glue area is to small and on an edge with large amounts of force applied. I would say NO, but you could always try it and see.
If, however you meant just placing them next to one another - no problems, this is how I would expect them to be used.
5 - Apologies for all the questions. I just want to get it right the first time around as time is of the essence. (possibly the subject for a vid?)
A - Not really into Video or You Tube so I would have to say NO and you will just have to see the picture tutorials on my Blog or in print.
Finally; the LACK tables can be found in charity shops the last one I purchased was just £1.00. New ones are around £7.00 - £8.00 but also check out the similar tables in B&M and Homebase.
Once again Good Luck.
Tony
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looks like I'm going to have to frame my boards then :-[
I've read a number of forum posts on other sites where people recommend using birch plywood over MDF, claiming it is much more warp resistant and lighter?
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I'll try to offer an answer to each of the querries.....
Thanks- appreciated :)
1 - Were there any warping issues?
A - No none and I've also used a 500mm x 1000mm table from B&M and so far no issues with warping on this larger table.
Always welcome news!
2 - Did you scuff up the surface to any modelling medium being applied?
A - Yes but just some rough sandpaper. I also recommend applying layers of torn newspaper (glued in place with PVA glue).[/quote]
Good job I aksed, I hadn't thought beyond scuffing them up to make a key- newspaper is a great idea.
3 - If I was to use a base of high density foam, say 25mm thick, could you foresee any problems in regard to warping?
A - Two answers to this question. Firstly; as the LACK tables are already 40mm thick I would have thought that an extra 25mm would make them far to thick. I used MDF foam and card to build up the Crashed Rocketship board and at certain sections this was over 100mm thick - with no warping.
Secondly; the LACK table can be cut into (see article in MW for more details) so I would have recommended a thinner foam (5mm - 10mm) and cut into the table for anything else - once again no issues with warping.
Sorry, I wasn't clear; I was actually thinking of making river sections- thus adding the foam tiles.
4 - This my be a bit of a rhetorical question but I'm going to ask it anyway (just in case!); it would be an easy task to just make up a large table with several of these?
A - Possibly but I have found that joining the tables end to end a bit of a problem - the glue area is to small and on an edge with large amounts of force applied. I would say NO, but you could always try it and see.
If, however you meant just placing them next to one another - no problems, this is how I would expect them to be used.
The latter, I mean't placing them together :)
5 - Apologies for all the questions. I just want to get it right the first time around as time is of the essence. (possibly the subject for a vid?)
A - Not really into Video or You Tube so I would have to say NO and you will just have to see the picture tutorials on my Blog or in print.
I'll try to get c copy of MW.
Finally; the LACK tables can be found in charity shops the last one I purchased was just £1.00. New ones are around £7.00 - £8.00 but also check out the similar tables in B&M and Homebase.
Thanks Tony, all very much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time out to explain 8)
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looks like I'm going to have to frame my boards then :-[
I've read a number of forum posts on other sites where people recommend using birch plywood over MDF, claiming it is much more warp resistant and lighter?
Outdoor grade plywood is treated to take the elements so might be a better idea as it is more resilient(?). I really don't know..... which is why I started the thread :)
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If its of any use I got this off the Perry Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/perryminiatures/posts/1433771486744953?__tn__=K-R
Assuming you haven't already seen it.
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If its of any use I got this off the Perry Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/perryminiatures/posts/1433771486744953?__tn__=K-R
Assuming you haven't already seen it.
Erm....... no! They posted it up during my four-five year hiatus...... 8) 8) 8)
Thamks for posting this!! It's actually made my day- such a wealth of ideas to produce top notch terrain tiles!!
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If its of any use I got this off the Perry Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/perryminiatures/posts/1433771486744953?__tn__=K-R
Assuming you haven't already seen it.
That Facebook link has some fantastic hints and tips.
Thank you for posting it.
Tony
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Glad to be of some help :)
As you may or may not be aware, they have Facebook posts of battle reports which include plenty of pics of their terrain boards including a birds eye view of the whole board at the start of the report. I'm using these images as well as pictures from other sources as inspiration for my own future efforts.
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Have a look at "Instructables"
Here's one example;
https://www.instructables.com/id/Modular-Tabletop-Terrain-Boards/ (https://www.instructables.com/id/Modular-Tabletop-Terrain-Boards/)
There are other ideas to be found there as well.
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One way to reduce the gap effect is to paint the sides of the pieces to match to the top - helps them almost disappear.
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Thanks guys.... keep those ideas coming 8)
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The following is another Perry Miniatures article I just found. It gives minimum information of the construction of the terrain boards, but I still found it of interest!
https://www.perry-miniatures.com/pages.php?page=making-of-mafeking
The boards appear to be styrofoam a couple of inches thick, glued to a thin base of plywood of mdf.
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The following is another Perry Miniatures article I just found. It gives minimum information of the construction of the terrain boards, but I still found it of interest!
https://www.perry-miniatures.com/pages.php?page=making-of-mafeking
The boards appear to be styrofoam a couple of inches thick, glued to a thin base of plywood of mdf.
Ha! Thanks Cram! I'd forgotten about that article! 8)
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Check out "the terrain tutor" he has a really useful guide on 2x2 tikes. I've used the same technique for 2x4 boards too. Here's the link
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ7Nizz1lNU
Best of luck!
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Check out "the terrain tutor" he has a really useful guide on 2x2 tikes. I've used the same technique for 2x4 boards too. Here's the link
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ7Nizz1lNU
Best of luck!
Thanks. I've seen most of his vids on the Terrain Tutor YouTube page since I posted the original question.
I've also been in touch with our very own Captain Blood, which has really helped me out in simplifying the process- if you're reading this, thanks again Richard 8)
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You’re welcome :)
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You’re welcome :)
Credit where credit is due mate. You have saved me a lot of time and perhaps just as importantly lowered the weight and encumbrance significantly! 8)
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Just wondering how the boards are coming along, and any advice you could share?
Many thanks
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Just wondering how the boards are coming along, and any advice you could share?
Many thanks
I haven't started them mate lol
On a serious note I haven't got as much time as I had previously due to illness in the "oldies" of the family (they won't mind me calling them that).
I'm still working on stuff.
I'm beginning to wish that I'd bought 25mm thick tiles but that can be easily remedied. Thing is I've got five of the 6' x 2' sheets that B&Q used to sell, I thought they were 50mm but it turns out that they're 60mm! They would have gone very nicely with the Panel Systems 50mm set I bought. They're only real use now would be for large hills and cliffs etc. Not the end of the world, just having a bit of a grumble :)
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Sorry to hear about illness of the 'oldies', hope things improve!
I've got plenty of ideas for when I do mine. But still don't know about bracing the boards or not. conflicting info on this, some say its essential, other people disagree, claiming their boards aren't braced and they have never had any warping.
Anyway I want get to start them until later in the year whatever I decide. I'm having my garage turned into a games room in a couple of months, and don't see the point in starting any boards until the rooms done.....planning the boards ahead is another matter, looking for info well in advance.
Good luck with them when you do make a start, and please share!
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Sorry to hear about illness of the 'oldies', hope things improve!
I've got plenty of ideas for when I do mine. But still don't know about bracing the boards or not. conflicting info on this, some say its essential, other people disagree, claiming their boards aren't braced and they have never had any warping.
Anyway I want get to start them until later in the year whatever I decide. I'm having my garage turned into a games room in a couple of months, and don't see the point in starting any boards until the rooms done.....planning the boards ahead is another matter, looking for info well in advance.
Good luck with them when you do make a start, and please share!
I've spoken over the net to a few folk who have advised me that as long as I'm using thick foam (about 50mm) then there is little need to brace the boards. This seems to make sense but I'm still in two minds as to what exactly is the right approach o_o
I'll report back on anything I make but as I'm not at all certain as to when that might be. Hopefully soon :)
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I’ve got maybe 15 different foam slab boards, all 40mm or 50mm thick. Some of them I made almost 10 years ago. They have lots of terrain features built onto them / carved into them. Not one of them has ever warped one jot. They are as straight and true as the day they were made. So personally, as long as you’re using thick styrofoam slabs (rather than thin white polystyrene sheets) I’d say bracing and edging foam boards is a waste of time and effort.
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Captain Blood where do you get your styrofoam boards from? I've looked around for foam boards at a decent price and size without luck so far.
I wonder if in the many cases of warping wood boards it is down to the environment in which the boards are stored, and/or if the are stored flat or on their side. I recently spoke to a gamer who has 6mm mdf terrain tiles, not braced and claims in the 8 years he has had them they have not warped, another has boards braced but has suffered some warping in the 5 years he has had them!!
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I’ve got maybe 15 different foam slab boards, all 40mm or 50mm thick. Some of them I made almost 10 years ago. They have lots of terrain features built onto them / carved into them. Not one of them has ever warped one jot. They are as straight and true as the day they were made. So personally, as long as you’re using thick styrofoam slabs (rather than thin white polystyrene sheets) I’d say bracing and edging foam boards is a waste of time and effort.
Which is the way I'm hoping to go. I suppose that i ought to do a test piece, though I don't doubt you're right.
Can't help but be a little nervous about it :)
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@cram - I used to get the big 1200mm x 500mm Knauf loft insulation boards, but Knauf inconsiderately stopped making them. They were cheap as chips and 50mm thick. But an awkward size. Although I have a dozen of them made up as terrain boards and they’ve served me very well.
I (and most people, in the UK at any rate I think) get their foam from Panel Systems.
https://www.panelsystems.co.uk/products/modelling-foam
For my recent desert boards I went for the 600mm square green foam boards, mainly because you get seven slabs in a box for 50 quid, because it’s 40mm thick. The equivalent blue foam slabs are 50mm thick so you get 6 in a box.
There is no difference in flexibility between the 40mm and 50mm thickness.
The blue and grey styrofoam are available in a host of different sizes and thicknesses. Not so the green, although as far as I can tell, there’s no discernible difference between the composition and properties of the three different colours of styrofoam. I’m sure there must be, but I can’t for the life of me see what it is!
BTW, I’ve had a dozen 6mm MDF terrain boards for 15-20 years, and they have never warped either. I store them flat in a stack. Maybe that’s what keeps them straight.
The foam slabs I store on their sides.
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Captain Blood where do you get your styrofoam boards from? I've looked around for foam boards at a decent price and size without luck so far.
Though I have no direct evidence, I'm beginning to suspect that glueing the tiles to the mdf supports might be where the warping starts(?)
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A while back on another forum I read a topic relating to boards warping. There was someone on there remarking about their game boards. All his boards were styrofoam, they hadn't warped over time, with the exception of one.....the only one with an wood backing! All the other boards were just styrofoam. So I think you could be correct in your assumption.
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A while back on another forum I read a topic relating to boards warping. There was someone on there remarking about their game boards. All his boards were styrofoam, they hadn't warped over time, with the exception of one.....the only one with an wood backing! All the other boards were just styrofoam. So I think you could be correct in your assumption.
That sounds reassuring. As do Richard's comments on the subject.
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Though I have no direct evidence, I'm beginning to suspect that glueing the tiles to the mdf supports might be where the warping starts(?)
I have created a number of boards based upon MDF base with a blue foam upper. The MDF varies from 12mm to 9mm and the foam from 10mm to 25mm. I have never had one warp on me. I use good quality wood glue (Gorilla is my firm favourite and use a pile of books/magazines as weight until both dried.
At first I would also drill into both wood and foam and add a dowel (usually bamboo skewers) but found I did not need them so junked that extra work for my later boards.
I would guess that any warping is due to storage rather than construction.
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Captain Blood thank you for the reply! I somehow previously missed it, only just read it now! Seven slabs for £50 sounds pretty decent. Thanks again.
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I'm still uneasy, despite what I would consider expert advice (thanks again Richard) about not basing them...... I think I'm just a worrier :?
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Well, you pays your money and takes your choice ;)
I can tell you unequivocally, that in my experience with almost 20 different styrofoam slabs, I have never had one warp on me. But if it gives you some reassurance to mount them on MDF or ply, then you should do what makes you happy :)
All I would say is that I know timber and timber based products do warp, depending on the conditions in which they’re kept. I’ve never seen styrofoam slabs warp yet, but there’s a first time for everything!
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If you do mount them on MDF don't go thin (4mm); use 10mm-12mm as Hu Rhu has done.
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It is worth looking at how some of the model railway fraternity have developed light weight boards.
Gordon Gravett has built some astounding boards.
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It is worth looking at how some of the model railway fraternity have developed light weight boards.
Gordon Gravett has built some astounding boards.
looked him up and you're not wrong! :-*
Thing is, he tends to use an awful lot of wood which would make it very cumbersome and heavy.
I'll keep looking, maybe he has made some where he has just used the foam board?
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I use mdf (9mm) and blue foam (20mm), with a wooden frame, and was in the same position as you a few years back.
I like the wood base and frame as it makes them seem more solid and durable.
I have both 2 x 2 ft and 2 x 4 ft boards.
The important point I've found is this - the only problems with warping I've had are in the 2x4 boards. The 2x2 square ones have had ZERO warping issues.
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I use mdf (9mm) and blue foam (20mm), with a wooden frame, and was in the same position as you a few years back.
I like the wood base and frame as it makes them seem more solid and durable.
I have both 2 x 2 ft and 2 x 4 ft boards.
The important point I've found is this - the only problems with warping I've had are in the 2x4 boards. The 2x2 square ones have had ZERO warping issues.
Thanks Charlie, I'm trying to avoid using a wooden base for ease of movement if i can get away with it.
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Found these videos which you may not have seen and may be of use? Certainly be helpful to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9biWBwel5w there's three parts to it.
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Found these videos which you may not have seen and may be of use? Certainly be helpful to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9biWBwel5w there's three parts to it.
Cheers mate, very good of you 8)
I hadn't actually seen this particular series before.
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Thanks Charlie, I'm trying to avoid using a wooden base for ease of movement if i can get away with it.
One advantage of a wood frame is it lets you use 600m square foam panels but still get 2 foot square modules. It's a lot more work, though.
If you use wooden side pieces glued to the wooden base then it isn't going to warp, but I can certainly believe a wood base glued to foam on its own will warp.
My own terrain boards are either 9mm MDF or 6mm MDF with 3mm of cork tile glued to the top (to make river boards). Had them many years and not had any warp on me.
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No problem. I'll post anything else I find of use. Not started anything myself yet, I'm holding off until the double garage has been converted into a games room, then I'll have a decent place to store my boards. Work on the garage was due to start in may, but obviously the current situation is going to delay that.
I'm going for styrofoam boards 40mm or 50mm thick....without a base, seems to work fine for people I've spoken too.
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I'm going for styrofoam boards 40mm or 50mm thick....without a base, seems to work fine for people I've spoken too.
That's what I'm looking to do as well. The less weight the better IMHO as they will have to be able to travel- they will be well packaged before heading out of the house :)