Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Tutorials => Topic started by: Helen on September 24, 2009, 10:38:41 PM
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Hello folks,
I'm in a bit of a jam. I'm trying to find the best way of applying red and yellow colours (separately) an achieving some good results.
For example; I'm using vallejo colours on shields and they don't seem to get the result I'm after with the three colour spectrum.
Can anyone assist? This not only applies to shields, but clothing etc..
Thank you for your time.
Helen
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I can’t really help you with red having problem with it myself…
For yellow, I paint 2 coats of a basic color (Vallejo Flat Yellow) and then give it a wash of Vallejo Game Color Yellow ink. I think it work best this way than to try the 3 layer technique… but that’s just my 2 cents.
You can even accentuate the effect by mixing a little brown ink to the yellow ink.
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Red- you have to lay in a base colour first, Vallejo 34 Burnt Cadmium Red's an easy and available option.Or GW Foundation Mechrite Red.
Yellow- again needs a base colour- GW Foundation Tausept Ochre, or Iyanden Darksun.
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Thanks guys, I'll look at purchasing some additional colours.
Helen
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Red- you have to lay in a base colour first, Vallejo 34 Burnt Cadmium Red's an easy and available option.Or GW Foundation Mechrite Red.
Yellow- again needs a base colour- GW Foundation Tausept Ochre, or Iyanden Darksun.
What he said.
As I always prime black I often take three reds, dark, medium and light, and mix a little black into the "dark" red for the first layers.
With yellow, I use Foundry Ochre A,B,C, then add further highlights with any really bright yellow I have.
Example below without extreme highlights.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/orctrader/LPL/Punch.jpg~original)
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I agree that a base colour needs to go down first.
with red i use GW Dark flesh as a base colour and then P3 reds to build up.
for yellow i go the same as Orctrader but i use foundry flesh A as the base and them build with foundry Ochre.
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I tend to underpaint both red and yellow. I use flesh for red and grey/white for yellow.
Basically you paint the area you want to be red with 3-5 flesh tones, highlighting and shading as normal and then add a flat coat of red at the end. I use GW reds as they are the most transparent.
Same for yellow but I start with grey to white before adding the flat yellow.
(http://webzoom.freewebs.com/matakishi/APAC%20Crazy%20Bees%20brawn%20yellow%202600.jpg)
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I prime black and have good success (maybe two coats) with Vallejo Model Color Flat Red 957 and Flat Yellow 953.
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'll put them all to good use.
Helen
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i often do as Matakishi, but use cream (bleached bone) for white, and chestnut or crimson (scab red) for reds.
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I would never consider painting red or yellow directly over a dark undercoat, yellow being particularly interesting as it has the finest pigments. This is why it covers darker colours so badly.
The three-stage-method over a darker undercoat has its merits, but it shows its flaws clearly when using lighter or more intense colours in their purest form.
Simply set the colour values back to zero with underpainting the areas you want to use these colours on with white, then just go ahead with your favourite shading system.
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Get some Plaka paint's no 23 Signalrot and no 11 Gelb, God's own red and yellow :)
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Pictors Studio swears by Cel Vinyl brand paints:
"Prime black. Use Cel Vinyl for your red. Why does everyone make it so hard?
It paints like any other colour. You paint it your base, do two highlights with brighter reds and you are done. You don't have to put "a few coats" on. Same with yellow."