Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => The Great War => Topic started by: Armstrong on January 30, 2023, 02:51:58 PM
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This is a small "compendium" of all available models in scale 1/56 (28 mm) on the market on the subject 1914 - 1919. The kits and figures will be compared and evaluated. The interested collector will find here some advantages and disadvantages to almost every type as well as an overview to corresponding suppliers/manufacturers. Also involved will be some modeling tips and paint suggestions.
Hello all,
I've been on the road again in terms of modeling and finally ventured to a topic that I've always wanted to touch:
The First World War (and aftermath until 1919)
For this reason, I've been doing some looking around and informing myself on the table top market and hope to post new info on figures and models here from time to time over the next few months (or even years ^^°).
This post should not simply exist to show off my completed projects, but primarily be/become an overview and evaluation of figures and models that are offered on the market on this topic. And it shall be shown by examples what can be made of individual miniatures (despite certain shortcomings).
In addition, I will try to provide the individual models and figures with a rating (or if possible, make direct comparisons between different manufacturers), so that the interested player / collector gets a quick overview of the individual thematic areas and can quickly find the best model for his needs.
The (currently) presented projects in overview
1. mark A "Whippet" from the manufacturer Brigade Games Miniatures (see below)
2. mark C "Hornet" from the manufacturer Empress Miniatures (see below)
3. LK II from Empress Miniature (see below)
4. Garford-Putilov from Empress Miniatures (see below)
5. Mark V* from Scarab Miniatures (will be uploaded soon)
6. Mark I (female) from The Armory (will be uploaded soon)
7. 3,7cm TAK from Great War Minatures (will be uploaded soon)
8. Renault FT-17 from Warlord Games (will be uploaded soon)
9. A7V from Warlord Games (in progress)
10. A7V from Great War Miniatures (will be uploaded soon)
11. Mark IV from Great War Miniatures (in progress)
12. Mark IV from Skytrex (will be uploaded soon)
1. Mark A "Whippet" from manufacturer Brigade Games Miniatures
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/5a7np7q8.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Brief history:
The Whippet (British Greyhound breed) is a vehicle of (what I call) the second generation of British tanks. The combat vehicle was designed as a "fast" vehicle to push into frontal breaches to make the enemy rear unsafe. This vehicle already had an engine compartment separated from the crew, which was not the norm for the time. (In the Mark I - V, the engine was in the crew compartment, which meant that crews were usually out of action for up to 48 hours after a mission due to smoke inhalation).
The Whippet fulfilled its role as a "light, fast" tank satisfactorily and was used at the front from March 1918 until the end of the war.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/agf3sie2.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
The kit (from Brigade Games Miniatures)
Parts:
1 x main hull (resin)
2 x track drive sections (resin)
4 x machine guns (pewter)
2 x exhaust pipe (pewter)
1 x rear end plate (pewter)
2 x shackles (tin)
No decals!
No instructions!
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/fhpexjyj.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/nbsb9spr.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Dimensions (scale):
Here I do not have any detailed drawings of the Whippet at the moment.
However, the dimensions seem to be correct for the 28mm scale (1/56).
As soon as I have more material available, I will give you an evaluation.
Detailing:
The model features quite good detalization with raised rivets and flaps. The actual features of the original are well represented. Probably out of the thought that this is a pure tabletop model, the front and rear chain safety brackets made of L-sections were omitted (risk of breaking off during handling). Rebuilding can only be done at greater expense.
The machine guns themselves are very simple. However, sufficient for a tabletop model.
Casting quality:
The casting quality is just about adequate. For one, there are several areas where there are unsightly warps and degrees. Some of these are so awkwardly located that it is difficult to remove them without damaging details such as rivets or moldings.
The ventilation slots on the side wall of the vehicle are also poorly executed in places and show casting residue. Refinishing is difficult in some cases.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/uj9wcs68.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/lyaijmly.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/c2p6rp6o.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
But the biggest drawback (at least on my model) is the warped rear superstructure. The casemate is tilted to the side and you get the impression that the crew compartment slides to the left side of the tank every minute. Correction here does not seem to be possible.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/5xss388f.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
The limited quality is likely due to the age of the molds used.
Accuracy of fit:
Mounts are provided on the fuselage for the two track segments, making accurate fitting easy. The machine guns including the bullet shield also fit well into the recesses provided for them. Only the two exhaust pipes caused me big problems, because either the superglue did not want to dry, or the resin had problems with the glue.
Matetrial (Quality):
The resin is a relatively light material and quite sturdy. The pewter parts are pliable to a certain degree and forgive some rough bend.
Decals:
No decals are included with this kit. However, to build a generic vehicle you don't necessarily need them. So basically a monotone greenish/olive camouflage paint is enough. If you want to make your model a bit more detailed, you can apply the white-red-white British sovereign markings with paint yourself. For vehicles with a serial number or special markings you should get decals from other kits/decalsets, make your own decals or paint them on yourself with a steady hand.
Instructions:
Although the "kit" consists of very few components, I would have liked at least a simple drawing for assembly. It took me some time to figure out how to properly attach the rear end plate. I could not find any information about the shackles (neither on the models nor in the original photos). Therefore I left them out on my model.
Price:
For my model I paid 35.00 USDollar. This is an average price for a resin model. Problem is that as a European customer you still have to pay transportation and possibly customs. So of course these factors drive up the actual price. I have not found a European supplier for the Brigade Games Miniatures model yet.
Further notes:
Two-component glue or better superglue is needed for assembly.
To correct bent/warped resin parts, it is recommended to soak the affected parts in a bowl of hot water for a few seconds and then carefully bend them back into the correct shape. This can be repeated as needed.
You should also have a tinker's knife for deburring and some sandpaper for sanding off any unevenness.
CAUTION: Please sand only outdoors or over an exhaust system! Resin dust is highly harmful to health and is most likely carcinogenic!
Dimensions:
Height: 4.8 cm
Width: 4.8 cm (approx. 5.0 cm with protruding machine gun)
Length: 10.5 cm
Summary Rating:
Dimensions (scale): - will be added later
Detailing: good (minus)
Casting quality: sufficient
Accuracy of fit: good
Material (quality): good
Decals: - not available-
Instructions: - not available-
Price: good (minus)
Conclusion:
In general it is a decent model, but unfortunately the warped crew compartment is a downer. As far as I know, there is only one other model with a similarly good level of detail. This is the tank from Trenchworx, which unfortunately are also only available in the US so far. All other known models (e.g. from 1st Corps) can sadly not keep up with the quality.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/x2c3l5qj.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/olw23i8w.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/fot44ji5.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/f3nb4t8t.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/n96qr4qh.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
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Mark C „Hornet“ of Empress Miniatures
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/wjerzmjl.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/ebv8997h.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Short historical summary:
The Hornet is the successor of the "Whippet". The war command had decided that a new and longer medium armored car was needed, as the Germans had been digging wider trenches since the appearance of tanks, making it very difficult for enemy combat vehicles to pass through the emplacement systems. Basically, based on the same design principle as the Whippet (or Mark A), the Hornet also had a detached engine compartment and was intended, above all, to use its speed to push into front line dips to conquer and secure the rear.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/83pg2j5q.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Two variants were developed for this purpose. One was the "female" Hornet with machine guns, and the male version with a 6-pounder main gun and machine guns. In both cases the weapons were housed in casemates, there were no turrets. Unlike the Mark A "Whippet", this time the fighting compartment was located in the front, while the engine was at the rear.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/rqs5ltai.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/guobndwq.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
The army command ordered several thousand of both variants, but no sooner were the first vehicles delivered than the Central Powers capitulated. The production orders were immediately canceled. The only "war service" the "Hornet" made was therefore only to participate in the victory parade.
In addition, only a few female units were built. The male variant did not get beyond the prototype stage.
However, the tanks were used in the suppression of the Irish uprising in Dublin. Here they were positioned in a central square as a deterrent. It is not known whether they took part in any combat operations.
Comparison with the Whippet (of Brigade Games Miniatures)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/i5jygu7h.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/2hzfpvqv.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
The kit (from Empress Miniatures)
Content (female):
1 x main hull (resin)
2 x track drive sections (resin)
5 x machine guns (pewter)
1 x muffler with pipe (pewter)
No decals!
No instructions!
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/42srgsy3.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/dbn58jrl.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Content (male):
1 x main hull (resin)
2 x track drive sections (resin)
1 x gun barrel (resin)
3 x machine guns (pewter)
1 x muffler with pipe (pewter)
No decals!
No instructions!
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/lev77l2o.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/rofz7ach.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Dimensions (scale):
At the moment I do not have any drawings of the Hornet.
Apparently the dimensions seem to be correct for the 28mm scale (1/56).
However, the casemate superstructure of the male variant seems to be a bit too extreme tilted to the front.
As soon as I have more material available, I will give you an evaluation.
Detailing:
The model features very clean detailing with raised rivets and flaps. The actual features of the original have been well represented.
The machine guns themselves are very sturdy and perhaps a bit over proportioned. However, they are adequate for a tabletop model.
For the male version, the gun barrel is included as a resin part. The resin itself is quite flexible and the tube is already cleanly drilled out. However, I recommend (for better hold) to pin the gun barrel and then attach it to the casemate in the hole provided.
The distribution and arrangement of the rivets is very simplified and only rudimentarily reflects the appearance of the original.
Casting quality:
The casting quality is quite good. The model is cleanly molded and there are no bubbles or degrees of molding. However, for some reason they decided to give both sides of the track sections the same exterior texturing (probably to only have to make one mold).
On the chain section, I unfortunately had slight breakage on the protruding chain segments on my models!
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/exclvl6z.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
On the male variant, there were also remnants of cardboard on the lower front fuselage panel.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/8czzdaza.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Accuracy of fit:
Detailing the track sections on both sides has its drawbacks.
You are forced to either sand all the details on the (chosen inside) towards the fuselage, or try to glue the running gear to the fuselage despite the structures (which is also what Empress Miniature did on the model on their site).
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/fhhlfcoa.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
I filled the gaps with modeling clay:
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/nz6xbit8.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Unfortunately, I opted for the second solution, which resulted in a warped/slanted left track section (on the female variant), which I could no longer detach from the hull (thanks to superglue). For this reason, I therefore recommend sanding the detailing on the inside or else very careful fitting. ATTENTION: Sanding only outside or with an exhaust system. Resin dust is very harmful to health!
Decals:
No decals are included with these kits. But to build a generic vehicle you don't need them. Basically a monotone greenish/olive camouflage painting is sufficient.
If you want to make your model a bit more detailed, you can apply the white-red-white British sovereignty markings with paint yourself (but according to my knowledge there are no existing photos of such a variant. All vehicles seem to have got along without any markings).
Of the male variant, there was only the prototype which was uniformly painted probably in olive-green (without any markings).
A special challenge is the female prototype, which had large lettering of the manufacturer/developer on the sides of the front body. I think here you can only get further with self-made decals or buy some of Black Lion Decals who have a set in 1/72 but are willing to rescale those on special request.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/2ffzrpp9.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Instructions:
There are no instructions for assembly. The kits consist of only a few components and basically no instructions are needed. The only shortcoming is the attachment of the track segments, as you have no clue how exactly to attach them to the hull due to the structures on both sides. Here a look at the Empress Miniatures site helps, as you can see an assembled vehicle there. In case of need, you can of course also orientate yourself on photos of other models or the original.
Price:
For my models I paid 24.00 Pounds. This is an average price for a resin model. Transport costs have to be included. How it behaves in the future with possible customs costs to Europe I can not say.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/oo8potfo.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/jyfvlgq8.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Further notes:
Two-component glue or better superglue is needed for assembly.
To correct bent/warped resin parts, it is recommended to immerse the affected parts in a bowl of hot water for a few seconds and then carefully bend them back into the correct shape. This can be repeated as needed.
You should also have a tinker's knife for deburring and some sandpaper for sanding off any unevenness.
CAUTION: Please sand only outdoors or over an exhaust system! Resin dust is highly harmful to health and is most likely carcinogenic!
Summary Rating:
Dimensions (scale): - will be submitted later -
Detailing: good
Casting quality: good
Accuracy of fit: sufficient
Material (quality): good
Decals: not available
Instructions: not available
Price: good
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/oqtsoswt.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200507/kqq5mrqf.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Conclusion:
Both versions (male and female) are really nice additions to the interwar range of tanks. The models are sufficiently detailed and quite cleanly rendered. For tabletop players they are ideal due to their good construction (lack of any filigree details). In addition, Empress has created two tanks that are not available from any other manufacturer. The models are ideal for the time of the Irish Revolution, as well as for pulp fiction and hypothetical battles at the end of the First World War.
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Nice models, I wasn’t aware of the Hornet before.
I see you have gone for dark green colour scheme - I went for mid-brown for my Whippets. I struggled to find definitive answers on WWI colours. I know green was used inter war and onwards, but seems brown was used a lot earlier. Frankly I’d quite like to have some green tanks too!
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Nice models, I wasn’t aware of the Hornet before.
I see you have gone for dark green colour scheme - I went for mid-brown for my Whippets. I struggled to find definitive answers on WWI colours. I know green was used inter war and onwards, but seems brown was used a lot earlier. Frankly I’d quite like to have some green tanks too!
Well, it's not entirely clear what color the British tanks had at the end of the war. I have oriented myself here to the vehicles that still exist (of course I know that these no longer have the original coat of paint). For example, the Mark V at the Imperial War Museum was painted greenish and the Mark IV at Bovington also has a brownish greenish color. Reports from eyewitnesses also differ in what they say. Perhaps this is in the eye of the beholder. For this reason, I have followed other built models that show the Whippet almost exclusively in a green-olive tone. For the Hornet I chose green, as this seems to be the "most common" color for interwar tanks.
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Well, it's not entirely clear what color the British tanks had at the end of the war. I have oriented myself here to the vehicles that still exist (of course I know that these no longer have the original coat of paint). For example, the Mark V at the Imperial War Museum was painted greenish and the Mark IV at Bovington also has a brownish greenish color. Reports from eyewitnesses also differ in what they say. Perhaps this is in the eye of the beholder. For this reason, I have followed other built models that show the Whippet almost exclusively in a green-olive tone. For the Hornet I chose green, as this seems to be the "most common" color for interwar tanks.
Superb modelling and painting :-* The green is a nicer colour although the Osprey book shows the Whippet and Hornet as brown. Presumably to blend in the Flanders mud. It also mentions that the Hornet was issued to the North Russian Tank Detachment and was then passed on the Latvian Army but fell into the hands of the Bolsheviks entering service in the Red Army who gave it a rather colourful camouflage pattern as shown in the book.
Btw what is wrong the the 1st Corps Whippet? I used to have a few of these and thought they were a nice model.
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Btw what is wrong the the 1st Corps Whippet? I used to have a few of these and thought they were a nice model.
Well... The 1st Corps Whippet has a rather toy-like appearance with "rough details". But that's mostly my opinion.
I wouldn't say it's a bad model, but it can't really compete with the Whippet from Trenchworx or Brigade Games Miniatures.
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Thank you for this review, very interesting. :-*
And now, you can find STL files for Whippet, Mk.IV and Mk.V, A7V, french FT, St Chamond and Schneider... from Trenchworxs. It's perhaps the future for very great models, whith quality and prices?
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I have not yet purchased from either Trenchworx or Butlers Printed Models, but Trenchworx has a slightly fuller tank range (MkVs, as well as MkIVs), whilst Butlers has armoured cars and heavy artillery as well, but only MkIVs; both have a Whippet and the inevitable A7V. My older son, who was recently promoted to "Vice-President, Wargames 3DP", is looking into them on a technical level and appears impressed at the initial stages.
As regards British tank colour(s), I believe that a prominent English artist was hired to design appropriate camouflage schemes for British tanks operating on the Western Front, when they first appeared. He applied himself diligently, came up with what he considered a winning scheme and it was used on one or two of the first tanks to go into action in 1916. He was then shown a tank that had been in action, which was covered in mud and all sorts of other crap. He reputedly threw up his arms in horror and said, "Why did I bother? Just paint the damned thing brown!"
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Thank you for this review, very interesting. :-*
And now, you can find STL files for Whippet, Mk.IV and Mk.V, A7V, french FT, St Chamond and Schneider... from Trenchworxs. It's perhaps the future for very great models, whith quality and prices?
You are right about the STL files. But sadly I don't know where you can order to print them for a decent price. :`
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I have not yet purchased from either Trenchworx or Butlers Printed Models, but Trenchworx has a slightly fuller tank range (MkVs, as well as MkIVs), whilst Butlers has armoured cars and heavy artillery as well, but only MkIVs; both have a Whippet and the inevitable A7V. My older son, who was recently promoted to "Vice-President, Wargames 3DP", is looking into them on a technical level and appears impressed at the initial stages.
As regards British tank colour(s), I believe that a prominent English artist was hired to design appropriate camouflage schemes for British tanks operating on the Western Front, when they first appeared. He applied himself diligently, came up with what he considered a winning scheme and it was used on one or two of the first tanks to go into action in 1916. He was then shown a tank that had been in action, which was covered in mud and all sorts of other crap. He reputedly threw up his arms in horror and said, "Why did I bother? Just paint the damned thing brown!"
I'm not sure about these Butlers Printed Models. Especially the pictures of the printed A7V on their site seem quite rough and not very detailed (but it is also a bad print).
The English artist you are referring to was Lt. Col. Solomon. He tried to develop several camouflage shemes for the Mark I, but in the end it was found that the mud and dust on the front soon covered the tanks with a "natural" cover of camo. So they stopped further development of camouflage coats and chose a brownish or olive color for all further tanks.
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I’ve never seen a good print from Butlers PM - not quite sure how they produce quite such bad prints.
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The English artist you are referring to was Lt. Col. Solomon. He tried to develop several camouflage shemes for the Mark I, but in the end it was found that the mud and dust on the front soon covered the tanks with a "natural" cover of camo. So they stopped further development of camouflage coats and chose a brownish or olive color for all further tanks.
Thanks - I was struggling to recall his name.
I have purchased the Trenchworx STLs for the Mark IV, Mark V and Whippet. Would you like to see pics when they are printed? (I warn you now, in contrast to the modernity of the technology, #1 son is positively glacial when it comes to actually printing something.....)
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I think the Mark V* is a great looking monster of a tank being a stretched Mark V. Scarab do a model but it is out of stock currently.
If I had some WW1 Americans I would support them with a Stanley steam tank. It never saw service but why let facts get in the way of using such a cool model!
http://www.landships.info/landships/tank_articles.html#
https://blackarmygames.com/collections/frontpage/products/longhorn-stanley-steam-tank
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Below are the camouflage schemes for the Mark 1 (from Black Lion Decals website)
Die Waffenkamer do a great male and female model of it. See pictures below.
https://www.diewaffenkammer.com/trains_and_wwi_vehicles.html
Black Lion decals do 1/72 and 1/35 transfers for WW1 tanks but will scale up or down if you ask them, for very reasonable cost.
They also have painting guides on their website.
http://www.blackliondecals.nl/decals1-72.htm
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Thanks - I was struggling to recall his name.
I have purchased the Trenchworx STLs for the Mark IV, Mark V and Whippet. Would you like to see pics when they are printed? (I warn you now, in contrast to the modernity of the technology, #1 son is positively glacial when it comes to actually printing something.....)
You are welcome.
And surely I would be interested in the painted prints.
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Below are the camouflage schemes for the Mark 1 (from Black Lion Decals website)
Die Waffenkamer do a great male and female model of it. See pictures below.
Black Lion decals do 1/72 and 1/35 transfers for WW1 tanks but will scale up or down if you ask them, for very reasonable cost.
They also have painting guides on their website.
Oh. I have done this model already in a Salomon paint sheme that refers to the Mark I in Bovington.
I will soon upload it here.
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LK II from Brigade Games Miniatures
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/tldgaxkf.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Brief history:
The LK II (leichter Kampfwagen II = light fighting vehicle II) was a further development of the German army of the 1st World War. Impressed by the success of the French Renault tank (later named FT-17) and disappointed by the performance of the A7V, it was decided to produce a small and light armored vehicle, which should be characterized by its speed.
After the first design (LK I) was rejected because of the too thin armor and other deficiencies, the LK II was developed. There was to be a male version (with a gun in a casemate) and a female version (with a machine gun in a rotating turret). The first tanks had already been built and were about to enter service when the war ended.
Since, according to the Treaty of Versailles, Germany was not allowed to own any tanks in the future, the ones already built were renamed "Großtraktoren" = "great tractors") and sold to Sweden and Hungary.
While the Hungarians shipped their tanks in pieces for a long time around the country (to hide them from the Allied Control Commission), the Swedes were able to use them openly for several years. After the Hungarians were finally able to assemble their tanks as well, they ended up missing so many individual parts due to the constant shipping that they were only able to reassemble a portion of the tanks.
By the way, the model from Empress shows the LK II in the original version. The Swedish tanks later had circular flaps in the front plate behind which headlights were hidden.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/cuehndh5.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
The model (from Brigade Games Miniatures)
Content
1 x mainhull (resin)
2 x track drive sections (resin)
1 x machine gun - original version (pewter)
1 x machine gun - Swedish update from 1928 (pewter)
1 x trailer hitch (pewter)
No decals!
No instructions!
Dimensions (scale):
At the moment I do not have any drawings of the LK II.
Apparently the dimensions seem to be correct for the 28mm scale (1/56).
As soon as I have more material available, I will submit the evaluation.
Detailing:
The model features fairly good detailing with raised rivets and flaps. The actual features of the original have been well represented. However, there is a rectangular cutout on the right side of the engine cover. I could not find this in the pictures of the original vehicles. It looks like the designer forgot or left out the cover slats towards the engine compartment here.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/ypgu82xx.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
The machine guns themselves are kept very simple. However, they are sufficient for a tabletop model.
The surfaces of the tracks are also kept somewhat simple, but serve their purpose.
The turret sits only loosely in a flat turntable. It is best to drill a hole in the hull and turret and insert small magnets there to provide a secure hold so as not to lose the turret during transport if necessary.
Casting quality:
The casting quality is good. The surface details are cleanly cast and there were no warps or casting edges. However, the model had slight bubbling on some rivets (i.e., during the casting process, a bubble forms directly behind a rivet and when the mold is removed, the rivet breaks off and exposes the cavity underneath).
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/9tpebr3p.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Accuracy of fit:
There are mounts on the fuselage for the two track segments onto which the undercarriage segments are glued. There are ledges on the inside of the running gear that correspond directly to the length of the mounts on the fuselage. The metal parts (machine gun and trailer hitch) can also be easily attached to the fuselage.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/4565c48r.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Material (quality):
The resin is a relatively light material and quite sturdy. The pewter parts are solid and thick and also forgive the one or other "rough" handling.
Decals:
There are no decals included with this kit. However, to build a generic vehicle you do not need them. The original Imperial Army vehicle was probably a gray or "field gray" monotone paint job without any nationality insignia or lettering (the type was still being tested, after all). In the service of the Swedes, the vehicles were monochrome or had a more color paint scheme. Markings or sovereignty insignia were apparently not used here either. (There are numerous pictures of still existing vehicles on the internet).
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/eoh4kucp.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Assembly instructions:
The "kit" consists of very few components and doesn't really need instructions. The only problem for me were the two machine guns. Only after longer research it became clear that one is for the original vehicle version and the second for the modified Stridsvagn of the Swedes.
Price:
I paid £16.00 for my model. This is an acceptable price for such a small resin model. Problem is that as a EU customer you still have to pay transport and possibly customs. So of course these factors increase the actual price.
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/hk4vlkn3.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Further notes:
Two-component glue or better superglue is needed for assembly.
To correct bent/warped resin parts, it is recommended to immerse the affected parts in a bowl of hot water for a few seconds and then carefully bend them back into the correct shape. This can be repeated as needed.
You should also have a tinker's knife for deburring and some sandpaper for sanding off any unevenness.
CAUTION: Please sand only outdoors or over an exhaust system! Resin dust is highly harmful to health and is most likely carcinogenic!
Dimensions:
Height: 4.5 cm
Width: 3.5 cm
Length: 9.5 cm
(https://s12.directupload.net/images/200513/saw2zkg3.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Summary Rating:
Dimensions (scale): - will be added later -
Detailing: satisfying plus
Casting quality: good
Accuracy of fit: good
Material (quality): good
Decals: - not available-
instructions: - not available
Price: good
Conclusion:
All in all the LK II is a nice model which shows the characteristics of this vehicle perfect. On top it is a very exotic topic of a tank that was never taking action in the German imperial army and only saw service in the Swedish and Hungarian army. The kit is perfect for “what if” battles and is a nice addition to every Great War collection. The only disadvantage is the missing detail of the engine cover on the right side of the vehicle.
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The LKII should be very useful for those wanting to game "what if" scenarios, i.e. if the War had continued on into 1919/20 (by which time the Americans would have been well-armed with BARs, and SMGs would have been more widely available).
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Garford-Putilov from Empress Miniatures
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/rad5zdbe.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Brief history:
The Garford-Putilov was an armored car developed and mass-produced by Russia during World War I, based on the chassis of a truck imported from the United States.
The result was a vehicle that was armored and equipped with a 76mm cannon and three Maxim MGs. The engine was hopelessly underpowered with this extra weight and only managed to accelerate the vehicle to a top speed of 18 - 19 km/h (11 - 12 mph). In addition, the superstructure had a high center of gravity, which resulted in the Garford-Putilov having no off-road capability.
Although the mounted gun had a swivel angle of 270 degrees, it could not act in the forward direction of the lorry, and the two MG casemates mounted on the sides were also unable to cover the area directly in front of the vehicle.
Advantages of the vehicle were its sturdiness, relatively strong armament for an armored car of that time and technical reliability.
To use the gun effectively against enemy forces, it was essential that the vehicle could travel at a high speed in reverse. For this reason, the gears could be "shifted", turning all four forward gears into reverse gears, allowing the vehicle to travel at the same speed in both directions.
The crew consisted of 8-9 men, with only the positions of commander and driver being specified.
A total of 48 vehicles were built, 5 of which were probably captured by German troops during the war and thus used to put down the January uprisings in Berlin in 1919.
Small anecdote at the end:
During the fighting in the east in 1919 against the Lithuanian army, a Garford- Putilov was captured by a German officer of the Iron Division (a Freikorps division serving Russia). The soldier stormed the slowly retreating vehicle (max. 19 km/h) and shot the commander and driver through the viewing hatches. The truck then drove driverless into a ditch and the rest of the crew surrendered.
This example shows the weaknesses of the armored car (low top speed, no all-around protection with MGs).
The kit (from Empress)
Parts:
1 x main hull (resin)
1 x turret (resin)
1 x Gun aperture (resin)
1 x front axle (white metal)
2 x front tires (white metal)
1 x rear axle (white metal)
2 x rear tires - double (white metal)
3 x Maxim MG (white metal)
2 x headlights (white metal)
2 x brake system (white metal)
1 x bumper (white metal)
No Decals!
No instructions!
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/8uotcdft.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/ld6tieez.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Dimensions (scale):
Apparently, the basic dimensions of the vehicle fit. The platform for the turret has a diameter that is minimally too large. The overall length is consistent (not taking into account the overhanging gun barrel). Only the height is missing about 2mm. This also becomes clear if you place a figure in the appropriate scale next to the vehicle and make a size comparison with historical photos. Here, the model figure appears somewhat taller than the persons in the photos ( minus the bases, if any). However, it can still be argued here that there are small and large people (which is impressively confirmed by a special photograph of a Garford-Putilov in Freikorps service in Berlin with soldiers of different sizesin front of it).
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/aas745qo.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Detailing:
The model has raised details and a strongly elaborated rivet structure. This is of course clearly too large for the scale, but not unusual for resin tabletop models. Of course, the number of rivets here do not match the original, but they are basically correctly positioned.
The vehicle is kept quite simple and one or the other detail is missing, but all characteristic features are included. A problem however is the missing gun barrel. Because you only get the cover, which was built around the gun. Inside this resin part is hollow. It is questionable whether a gun barrel really has to be represented here, since the gun cover actually hides the gun barrel to a large extent.
On my model, I represented the gun barrel by a drilled-out plastic rod.
However, the length of the barrel was unclear. In some historical shots the barrel reaches almost to the end of the aperture, in other shots the barrel is much deeper inside the tube.
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/ubkfxmyi.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/8z3tk22r.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
The top of the gun platform also seems to be incorrectly reproduced. Instead of being recessed slightly inward, it should be flat and also have rivets.
But the biggest drawback of the model is something completely different: .
The main hull is warped. That is, the rear gun emplacement is slanted and, on the one hand, leans to the left in the direction of travel and, on the other hand, rises at an angle towards the rear. Even a bath in hot water and the attempt to compensate the sloping position by bending were unsuccessful. If you build the armored car without taking this into account, you end up with a clear slant of the platform and the tower sitting on it. The only option here is to mount the rear axle at a slight angle to conceal the slant of the platform. However, if you look directly at the vehicle from the front, you will still notice the slanted position of the tower. If the tower is displayed in a rotated state, this circumstance is even more pronounced.
Here once in "normal" built condition: (https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/6fjs6xpc.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
And here in " hidden " condition: (https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/bcv72nrc.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Probably only cutting the hull apart and reattaching the platform would fix this flaw. However, this would involve an immense amount of work, which would be equivalent to a complete rebuild of the vehicle.
Casting quality:
The casting quality is satisfactory. On my models I have seen cleanly cast rivets and details, no chipping of the resin or broken off areas. However, several rivets on the roof of the driver's cab were not properly cast. (Unfortunately I noticed this only after painting the model).
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/dyyurawh.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
This is an isolated case, however, as I received a second kit where the casting is clean. Slight bubbling is otherwise only found on the underside of the vehicle (in areas that cannot be seen). The deformation of the hull has already been addressed above. So overall it is a cleanly cast model with decent reproduction of the details.
Accuracy of fit:
The accuracy of the fit is satisfactory. Especially the axles and tires could impress with clean fits and notches, which make the assembly (with superglue) very easy. For the MGs, it is recommended to drill holes and then fit them there (so that they do not break off accidentally even during a tabletop game - The are long enough for that). You can of course magnetize the turret, but you should keep in mind that due to the sloping shape of the platform, the superstructure will tilt significantly to the side at some angles, thus showing this flaw even more clearly.
For the two headlights it is recommended to drill small holes in the fenders to fix them there permanently.
The most delicate part of the model are the two brakes. They are mounted in front of the rear tires and glued directly to the underside of the fuselage. The problem is that you can't drill a hole for them, otherwise they would sit too high. Thus, the two parts are attached to the fuselage in a very exposed place only with superglue, which makes breaking off by too rough handling possible.
Material (Quality):
The resin selected for the model is relatively robust and heavy. It does not seem to bend as usual when heated in a water bath. The vehicle also has a fair amount of weight due to the numerous white metal parts. The metal parts are all sturdy and will forgive some bending. The resin parts are also all solidly cast.
Decals:
There are no decals included with this kit. You may want to contact "Black Lions Decals", a company that has some decal sets for WWI vehicles in their program. Here, for example, a set is offered for a Garford-Putilov in Freikorps service around 1919. Also available are decals for Russian variants of the vehicle. However, the decals have to be scaled up to 1/56 as they are not offered in this size as standard. However, this will be done on request without much extra charge.
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/9zab9bgz.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Instructions:
The "kit" has no instructions. To build the model, it is recommended to look for pictures of original vehicles on the Internet and orient yourself by them. Be careful when using built models as reference! Often the turret was put on incorrectly. When magnetizing (or gluing) the turret, make sure that it is not centered on the platform! Instead, you should place the rear of the turret directly on the outer edge of the platform dish and then fix the turret in place.
In addition, it must be taken into account that the gun cover sits so low on the turret that it almost rests on the outer edge of the platform.
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/vh9ur8jt.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Price:
The model currently costs 22.00 British pounds. This is an acceptable price for such a resin model. Unfortunately, the armored car is only available from Empress Miniatures in the UK. Which is why transport costs and customs duties are still added to the price of the model for any European buyer.
Further notes:
Two-component glue or better superglue is needed for assembly.
To correct bent/warped resin parts, it is recommended to soak the affected parts in a bowl of hot water for a few seconds and then carefully bend them back into the correct shape. This can be repeated as needed.
You should also have a tinker's knife for deburring and some sandpaper for sanding off any unevenness.
CAUTION: Please sand only outdoors or over an exhaust system! Resin dust is highly harmful to health and is most likely carcinogenic!
Dimensions:
Height: 4,7 cm
Width: 4,8 cm (mit MGs)
Lenght: 10,8 cm (mit Geschützrohr)
Summary Rating:
Dimensions (scale): good
Detailing: good
Casting quality: sufficient (due to warped hull)
Accuracy of fit: good
Material (quality): good (But: reworking by heating is not possible for bigger parts)
Decals: - not available-
Instructions: - not available-
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/xqcto9zb.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
Conclusion:
The Garford-Putilov from Empress Miniatures is the only serious model of its kind in 1/56 scale (28mm) on the market. There are still one or two resin models and emerging 3D prints, but they are not convincing in any way, neither in quality nor in design.
It is all the more unfortunate that the Empress model has a warped hull that cannot be easily corrected. Even with masking, the slanted platform remains clearly visible from one angle or another. If this flaw were not present, this model would be unreservedly recommended to any table-top player.
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/ntgi8oq5.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
(https://s20.directupload.net/images/230318/b563t5po.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net)
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Nice review. If memory serves these were from the old Copplestone Castings range and were nominally 1/55 (?) I remember them being some slightly odd scale. Close enough anyway.
Company B also do a range of suitable decals for 1/56 Russian armoured cars, including skull ad crossbones designs.
https://company-b-models-and-miniatures.myshopify.com/collections/decals-for-1-56-vehicles?page=4
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Nice review. If memory serves these were from the old Copplestone Castings range and were nominally 1/55 (?) I remember them being some slightly odd scale. Close enough anyway.
Company B also do a range of suitable decals for 1/56 Russian armoured cars, including skull ad crossbones designs.
https://company-b-models-and-miniatures.myshopify.com/collections/decals-for-1-56-vehicles?page=4
Yes, I think it is a former Copplestone Casting model. If it really is in 1/55 then the measurements are even "worse"... since it is already a bit too low in high.
But between 1/56 and 1/55 is not such a great difference anyway.
And yes, if you want to Create some Russian armoured cars, the skull and bones of Company B are very fitting. For Freikorps units the form of the sculls is sadly wrong,
since they had a certain basic design where the scull had more the form of an upside down pear. But I am too choosy when it comes to correct markings. ^^°