Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => General Wargames and Hobby Discussion => Topic started by: OSHIROmodels on February 12, 2023, 01:33:10 PM
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Anyone else had this problem? Just the standard inks (not contrast or anything).
The older ones were fine but I'm finding the newer ones separating and needing a bloody good shake to get the solidified stuff at the bottom mixed in.
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Price goes up, quality goes down. >:(
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This wasn’t intended to derail into a GW hate thread, there’s plenty of that elsewhere. I’d just like to know if others have experienced the separating or if this is just potentially a bad batch.
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Maybe. I bought a pot of Nuln Oil a few months ago and found it very weak compared to the old one I was replacing. I just assumed there wasn’t as much pigment, but it might actually be the problem you experienced (pigment there, but not mixed in properly). I’ll have to take a second look.
A friend had the same thing with one he bought at around the same time.
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Maybe. I bought a pot of Nuln Oil a few months ago and found it very weak compared to the old one I was replacing. I just assumed there wasn’t as much pigment, but it might actually be the problem you experienced (pigment there, but not mixed in properly). I’ll have to take a second look.
A friend had the same thing with one he bought at around the same time.
They changed them recently (they had some posts about it on the community page) and the consensus seems to be that they've ruined them by making them weaker and shinier.
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Thanks. Sounds like it’s a consistent problem them. Bugger lol
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Yep, heard nothing but bad from the local guys who still use GW stuff. Also seen the same on various YouTube channels.
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I have never had a problem with GW paints separating until recently; a few months ago I bought a pot of Runefang Steel and it separates quite easily. It requires more than the usual shaking to get it mixed again.
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I have Daler-Rowney FW acrylic inks that do the same. I suspect it's to do with the exact composition/consistency of pigments and binder in them, and their ability to keep everything in suspension.
Like others, I've found newer GW paints all seem to separate quite easily in general (well, all the ones I have anyway), and this might be due in part to them being thinner consistency. Since acrylic ink is basically just very thinned paint, I wonder if this is why it's happening more?
A couple of things to note though; older GW inks (the white flip-lid ones, both round-pot and hex-pot types) sometimes had a habit of reactivating, and were often strong enough to "stain" the paint underneath (I think because they were actually a lacquer base?) - the newer inks are all acrylic formulations that no longer behave this way (and are better for it IMO). The other thing is that I use Daler-Rowney FW acrylic inks, and have found that the "best" ones for me are the semi-translucent ones; letting them settle and then pouring off the clear liquid means I can dump the sludge left at the bottom and I end up with more translucent inks (albeit, they are less strongly-tinted, but I can always just apply two coats!).
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I used to use the DR peat ink but stopped when I realised that it wasn’t UV stable
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Maybe. I bought a pot of Nuln Oil a few months ago and found it very weak compared to the old one I was replacing. I just assumed there wasn’t as much pigment, but it might actually be the problem you experienced (pigment there, but not mixed in properly). I’ll have to take a second look.
A friend had the same thing with one he bought at around the same time.
The washes were changed middle of last year (I think, might have been even earlier). They are now meant to work in tandem with contrast paints. So no longer meant to stain whole surface as well as pooling in nooks and crannies, they are just meant to pool. They also took the opportunity to reduce the size of the pots too.
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The washes were changed middle of last year (I think, might have been even earlier). They are now meant to work in tandem with contrast paints. So no longer meant to stain whole surface as well as pooling in nooks and crannies, they are just meant to pool. They also took the opportunity to reduce the size of the pots too.
Damn I mostly use them for staining
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Me too ::) lol
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What can a man who relied on the "magic in a pot" that the older incarnations of these washes provided get instead, I ask?
I too have noticed the drop in quality (or change in behaviour) of the GW washes, the worst one for me being them drying super glossy (and yes, I shook them, stirred them, didn't mix water in, didn't buy the gloss version, etc).
I sure miss Devlan Mud.
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If you miss the older GW washes, have a look at the Army Painter Washes (the acrylic ones in dropper bottles). Very similar in colour and finish! ;)
The washes were changed middle of last year (I think, might have been even earlier). They are now meant to work in tandem with contrast paints. So no longer meant to stain whole surface as well as pooling in nooks and crannies, they are just meant to pool. They also took the opportunity to reduce the size of the pots too.
Yep, those washes are all now part of the Contrast range of paints, and were reformulated (and changed a bit) accordingly. Generally, your description seems about right to me!
I used to use the DR peat ink but stopped when I realised that it wasn’t UV stable
Yeah - that's why I use the acrylic inks that are noted as being UV stable. It should be noted that translucency and light-fastness do vary by colour though (link (https://www.daler-rowney.com/fw-acrylic-ink/)).
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I haven't tried them, but ProAcryl recently put out a couple of washes --- and people like their paints (I had a few misses, but I think they make a good product). I've been meaning to check them out. They've been mimicking GW's paint line, so I assume the washes would be aimed at copying Agrax, etc.
https://monumenthobbies.com/collections/washes
PS: Whoops, one of the reviews says "stains less than other washes"? :D
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Yeah - that's why I use the acrylic inks that are noted as being UV stable. It should be noted that translucency and light-fastness do vary by colour though (link (https://www.daler-rowney.com/fw-acrylic-ink/)).
That is extremely useful - thank you.
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What can a man who relied on the "magic in a pot" that the older incarnations of these washes provided get instead, I ask?
[...]
I sure miss Devlan Mud.
In case my earlier comment wasn't enough for you, this blog article (https://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/05/devlan-mud-and-badab-black-wash.html) may be of interest to you. ;)
That is extremely useful - thank you.
No problem! I had some difficulties myself trying to match the old GW "bolter shell" screw-top Turquoise ink, and the DR FW Acrylic ink is all I could find in the end that was a light-fast non-reactivating ink.
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In case my earlier comment wasn't enough for you, this blog article (https://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/05/devlan-mud-and-badab-black-wash.html) may be of interest to you. ;)
Cheers! :D
Interestingly, I have these washes but rarely use them! lol
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Thinks to the helpful posts above I’m trying out the DR FW Acrylic Ink
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/58/2031-070323101329-5829256.jpeg)
The DR is perhaps a little thick so I ended up adding a few drops of water to it.
At the mo I’m painting 15 minis in similar in this colour scheme, 5 Infinity metals and 10 WotC plastics,and it will be interesting to see how highlighting goes.
I’ll try to remember to retake the images when the shade has dried.
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To make the DR ink behave like a wash, you need to add a little water and some matte acrylic medium to it.
Instead, if you have some (or are feeling flush/lazy) you could add some AP Wash Mixing Medium, or some Citadel Contrast Medium, which are basically pre-mixed versions of the same additives.
I also found it useful to let the DR settle out for a few weeks and then pour off the clear liquid to use - it loses a bit of colour strength, but increases transparency.
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Thanks I’ll order some of the AP that I’ll try with the next attempt.
Presumably the medium is what gives the citadel wash the ‘smoother’ coat.
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Yes, exactly - it's a bit like "blank" paint essentially.
I sometimes use a little bit of drying retarder too; but the Vallejo stuff is so thick, it needs to be cut in a ratio of 1:5 with water to leave it usable - and a few drops of the diluted result into your bottle of home-made wash is all you need.
The retarder helps to give the wash enough time to settle fully before it begins to dry, and that reduces incidence of tide marks. It does of course mean that the stuff takes longer to dry as well though... So I use it very sparingly as a result, since otherwise the wash takes forever to dry.
Really, it's not hard to make your own version of all these washes and Contrast paints, but you need to have a critical mass of stuff to make them with first, and you also need to note down what you mix for future reference. After that, making up a bottle is simple enough, and you can always make more.
Not as quick as just buying the paint of course, and some washes and Contrasts do have their own specific desirable properties anyway (strength of tint usually).
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Thanks again, your advice has been very helpful