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Other Stuff => Workbench => Tutorials => Topic started by: Ultravanillasmurf on July 17, 2023, 08:48:03 PM
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Way back when, the new way to base figures was the slot base, each figure had a tab (or in some cases tabs) which were fitted into a plastic base with a slot in it. Gone were the days of random sized bases or having to cut regular sized bases from plastic card, or using washers.
This was fine, except the base was four to six millimetres tall, and contributed a great deal to the height of figure.
Renedra introduced a range of plastic bases less than 2mm high. These were regular in size and height. Combined with plastic figures, it made basing easier. Admittedly the figures might have puddle bases, so some Milliput would be required.
But how do you use slot base figures with them?
There are three ways.
First, cut the tab off, file the feet flat and use a pin.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x6BY4OaPMPU/ViUy0-RVwKI/AAAAAAAABAY/b06PyQNr9B4/s16000/WilliamKillan1.png)
Two William Killian.
Second, cut a slot in the base and trim the tab.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YpYPghl-SkA/W5OCct-zwnI/AAAAAAAAEF4/hGrrUyDKJvYqq0FTmjHNcltkubO6EO6fQCLcBGAs/s16000/rasp1-1.png)
Another Crooked Dice figure, this time an X-Commando (with a police woman head).
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The third is to build up a slot with some plastic. Two pieces of sufficient thickness will do, but for the Barrow Wraiths I decided I wanted a bit more regularity, so it was back to the Renedra bases, in this case the 20mm one.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh__Hnmz09JS6v6G9fx42eXANtOowSSI5T32JWk5WWEdfc9nUW_xLqAj1-ua3bEDAE3X_E9yUNjsuNWLieKaDCysGfK9_RmUlf7ndcDcTh3yrUdQ2fdc-XzR5H17W_15s1j5_4GIrLkSRDNv8px6LY8FG2zYkxO2iAslRjw9y3XGmjY6-mb1-Bj1289t5p-/s16000/wraiths-3.png)
Renedra 20mm base on top of a 25mm base.
The 20mm base was cut in two (each one was cut so the figure would be as central as possible on the 25mm base. The larger piece was glued to the base and while it dried the tab was held in place and the second pice added. Once it was holding, the tab was removed, creating a suitable sized slot. Once set, the tab was glued into the slot.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTVPJZixhqjlqcLFz-dEUk3f5FENIa7ypa0MXkGSSceIf0NhhP2xKSBHX1Nq8LI8TLcr0-mw-ybRb1mGG5E0aQsDt8zi4s-z7xLFG5MQimBTSQyaI8dY3N29z6niq6WKL-nBE0kzyZxn_eRyMAaNAl9ZUTjqrxcn8FJ0TAWMo3fa4GqdVSmJmemBxR1-vZ/s16000/wraiths-1.png)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoJbQzKHWrWjxsV_QtW1Nhmp_SO0dthOJM4IjFcu8Vs5vkO-TBnXYp2COKCT4F99qUHv5UJN3pkqUxNPnmwwphhgUTQE-PeGqKZ-YjcfVX6gALBjhtu9u8LwTr2oxFy3kw3Af7h8z5891lKngQ7L9iDonPF9c8PaVdEflD0rZRmw8JIyPLSywQ-oU9-PYc/s16000/wraiths-2.png)
Viewed from above shows the asymmetric cut.
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I normally go for the first option. Interesting to see the other two. They are all a faf though. If only you could get some sort of plastic clip that would hold a slotta based figure upright on a renendra type base that you could just filler around and over up to the feet of the model.
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But then you'd be back to the thickness of an actual slotta-base, while the excersize (I believe) was to reduce the thickness of the base. Not so much an issue with fantasy type miniatures such as the above pictured wraiths, but might be a thing with 'proper' human miniatures.
What I do with cast on bases is to trace and cut out the cast on base from the Renedra base and snugly fit it into the plastic base, then do my regular basing on top. This eliminates the removal of the entire cast-on base, reduces the height to nominal and is actually pretty easy and quick.
I usually cut off the taband pin in the case of Renedra style bases myself by the way...
+++EDIT+++ I have only one example of the above described method posted right now, so here he is: An old Grenadier(?) vampire with integrated base worked into a Renedra plastic base:
(http://www.fierylions.nl/Pictures/ForumPictures/Frostgrave/Miniatures/FrostgraveWIPVampire1.jpg)
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I always use the first method even with integral bases. I just razor saw the bases off.
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A friend of mine (Peter Duckworth) used another method.
Using some metal fastener tags (the kind that hold hole-punched
papers together) and separating the 'base' from the 'prongs' (they are
only pushed together & this is easy to do). The 'base' is then used
to solder the figure to it. He was very good with the solder & could
attach 30 or so figures in a few minutes. The figure & its new base
could easily be stuck onto thin plastic card, plywood, MDF etc. and
was quite robust.
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I have written about it before, but I 3d print my bases with a recess to take the built in bases and a trench for slotta tabs. The trench also allows me to secure the pins in metal figures without any tab or base at all (I'm looking at you, Stargrave miniatures >:()
I normally just make them the standard 3.5mm height, but I have printed out some 1.5mm (possibly even 1mm) ones for 6mm figures with integral bases.
The main advantage I find is that there's no build up required, something that always ends with a dome for me :( Filling in and levelling out is often required, but even I can do that.
Regarding the figures with no bases at all, there isn't much plastic to grip the pin on a standard slottabase. The trench means I can epoxy or milliput it in place, making it much more secure.
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I use kind of a combination of the methods shown. I mostly use metal washers but it works just as well for the plastic Renedra bases, which I occasionally use.
I snip off a good deal of the tab with clippers.
I glue a couple of thin strips of relevant thickness (tab thick) plasticard to the new base.
I glue the minis very narrow tab into the shallow recess I’ve created on top of the base.
Using runny superglue, I affix sieved Sharp Sand onto the base and up to and around the minis feet, to obscure/blend the slight bump.
I also do much the same for puddle bases, though they obvs don’t need the creation of the shallow recess.
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I cut the tab either side of the foot, reshape with file, drill hole in new base and insert