Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Old West => Topic started by: Dubar on September 19, 2023, 03:31:03 PM
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Got 3 questions.
1) The pack of cards that came with the game has 2 Jokers, what are they used for?
2) If a figure uses both actions to move and then gets shot at and the result is Shaken, how is having to automatically move towards cover figured in as far as actions go? Does it not count as one of the figures actions next turn, just move the figure and not count it as part of his next turns actions, or what?
3) Traits...If the Leader gets the LEADER trait PLUS 3 other traits, is it possible to make the figure unbeatable? This is my 1st attempt at this so I gave the maximum traits to each of my 5 figures on each side. I'm thinking I may want to be more judicious in handing out traits!!! ;D
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Got 3 questions.
1) The pack of cards that came with the game has 2 Jokers, what are they used for?
Jokers can be used several ways. Jokers are treated like Aces of the lowest suit. You can use them to activate special event like a sandstorm blowing in that blocks line of site, or triggers a stampede, etc. Jokers can be played a countdown clock: when 5 Jokers are played the game ends. Endless possibilities.
2) If a figure uses both actions to move and then gets shot at and the result is Shaken, how is having to automatically move towards cover figured in as far as actions go? Does it not count as one of the figures actions next turn, just move the figure and not count it as part of his next turns actions, or what?
First off, the move has to be away from the danger. You can't run forward towards the guy shooting at you. It doesn't count against their next activation's actions. If the target is forced to move back and doesn't get to cover and is shot at again, they can be driven back again If they are in cover, there isn't a push back.
3) Traits...If the Leader gets the LEADER trait PLUS 3 other traits, is it possible to make the figure unbeatable? This is my 1st attempt at this so I gave the maximum traits to each of my 5 figures on each side. I'm thinking I may want to be more judicious in handing out traits!!!
I highly suggest you play the games a couple of times. You can load up traits as much as want, but you'll find if your opponents roll a 9 or better to wound, all those traits don't matter. You're out of action. Our videos are full of "heroes" who were gunned down in the first turn, while some lowly 1 trait Regular wins the game.
You can go to our store contact form: www.wiley-games.com for questions. You'll get answers to your questions quicker. We have an FAQ on our site. We also have a Facebook page where lots of our experts can answer.
Also, a reminder: it's FISTFUL, not Fist Full.
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Scooped by the Baron while typing, but I'll still chime in on this one:
3) Leaders should be tough, but I've had Skeletor, Thundarr, Han Solo, and Princess Leia all go down in (different) battles. The gang-building guidance does a good job of creating a band balanced against others.
Chris
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3) Traits...If the Leader gets the LEADER trait PLUS 3 other traits, is it possible to make the figure unbeatable? This is my 1st attempt at this so I gave the maximum traits to each of my 5 figures on each side. I'm thinking I may want to be more judicious in handing out traits!!! [/i]
I highly suggest you play the games a couple of times. You can load up traits as much as want, but you'll find if your opponents roll a 9 or better to wound, all those traits don't matter. You're out of action. Our videos are full of "heroes" who were gunned down in the first turn, while some lowly 1 trait Regular wins the game.
Yep, last week my Leader in our Galactic Heroes Star Wars game was a Veteran (D12), Lightning fast, Deadeye with team trait killer, who was wearing light armour. She was put out of action in the very first turn when an enemy figure shot her rolling a natural 10 (no armour save) followed by a 9 (out of action) dropping her instantly. she failed the lightning fast save roll. So yeah, they can go down just as easily as a regular with a well placed shot.
Its what makes the game such fun or not when your hero goes down in the first turn... lol
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Thanks Baron (I've watched your videos) and the rest for keeping me in line!!!
I played thru 3 turns this morning but had to stop and go to a doctor's appt. So far I think I've got the hang of it, although I took the Jokers out of the deck and will put them back in the next shuffle.
FISTFUL!!! Got it o_o
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Only put the Jokers in if you have a function for them.
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Jaye,
Since you are here, I’ll ask. I’m not sure if I’ve been handling this wrong. Does a figure need to spend actions to change direction?
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Nick,
read the movement section: "A figure can make any number of turns or face changes during the course of its movement. However, if a model comes within 1” of an enemy it must stop and Close Combat ensues."
We also mention there is no facing, so the direction a character is facing wouldn't matter anyway.
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Got it, thanks. That’s what I get for reading every other sentence!
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Yep, last week my Leader in our Galactic Heroes Star Wars game was a Veteran (D12), Lightning fast, Deadeye with team trait killer, who was wearing light armour. She was put out of action in the very first turn when an enemy figure shot her rolling a natural 10 (no armour save) followed by a 9 (out of action) dropping her instantly. she failed the lightning fast save roll. So yeah, they can go down just as easily as a regular with a well placed shot.
Its what makes the game such fun or not when your hero goes down in the first turn... lol
LOL...My main guy made it thru 4 turns but that was it. I was having some awful rolls on the good guy side. 3 out of 5 figures had at least 1 Shaken marker within 4 turns with the leader KIA!!! Good thing Peg Leg Pete had only 1 good leg, it slowed him down enough he didn't make it to the fight in time!!!
I started using 5 figures on each side but decided to play with just 2 each side until I feel comfortable with the rules.
I printed out all the markers needed but ordered 2 sets of each in plastic(?) yesterday. I found the printed out on paper markers were too difficult to pick up without bending them.
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LOL...My main guy made it thru 4 turns but that was it. I was having some awful rolls on the good guy side. 3 out of 5 figures had at least 1 Shaken marker within 4 turns with the leader KIA!!! Good thing Peg Leg Pete had only 1 good leg, it slowed him down enough he didn't make it to the fight in time!!!
I started using 5 figures on each side but decided to play with just 2 each side until I feel comfortable with the rules.
I printed out all the markers needed but ordered 2 sets of each in plastic(?) yesterday. I found the printed out on paper markers were too difficult to pick up without bending them.
Start small and build up from there. When we started playing we didn't use the traits. we just played straight up d10 figures to get used to the mechanics. Adding the traits later was easy as we knew how to play and then personalising the figures really started to add flavour. We haven't looked back yet. Playing a Star Wars campaign at present with multiple linked scenarios. The characters realy start to take on personalities as they gain additional traits, equipment, new team mates etc. I recommend giving that a go once you are happy with the game.
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Start small and build up from there. When we started playing we didn't use the traits. we just played straight up d10 figures to get used to the mechanics. Adding the traits later was easy as we knew how to play and then personalising the figures really started to add flavour. We haven't looked back yet. Playing a Star Wars campaign at present with multiple linked scenarios. The characters realy start to take on personalities as they gain additional traits, equipment, new team mates etc. I recommend giving that a go once you are happy with the game.
EXCELLENT idea!!! Peg Leg Pete will be pleased :D
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Here's another suggestion, not a must, but...
Don't play with a normal pack of cards, the dedicated card sets adds to the ambiance, thingy!
:-*
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Here's another suggestion, not a must, but...
Don't play with a normal pack of cards, the dedicated card sets adds to the ambiance, thingy!
:-*
They came with the new rule book set!!! YeeHaw, I am ambianced out!!!
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I'm playing without using any "Traits", as suggested by Malamute, and it's been great so far. Speeds up and simplifies things quite a bit. I'll start using the Traits once I'm comfortable with how the game is played.
I had 1 turn where one of the BGs (Bad Guys) got a Wound and Down marker. Being he was also at the top of a staircase landing I decided he had to use the "Falling off the roof" rule and throw 1D10 to what happens. Of course he rolled a 9, and fell off the landing onto the ground, OUCH!!!
So he gets another Wound marker...but does he also get another Down marker???
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Wounds and Shock are cumulative, so a figure can have several of each.
Down is a status so a figure only gets this once. We tend to lie the figure down to represent this.
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Sounds right to me, thanks fred!!!
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I played a short game yesterday where 2 tough (D12) bad guys came into town with a goal to kidnap the good doctor's daughter for ransom. They holed up in the hotel then tried to sneak around the back and down to the doctor's office.
But 5 of the townsfolk (1 D12, 1 D10, 3 D8) were ready for them. One spotted them as they tried to make their way around the back of the hotel and quickly notified sheriff Matt. The others came running and split forces, 3 went around one side of the hotel and the other 2 took off around the other side to head them off.
One of the BGs kept getting Shaken and the other took a Wound and went down, it was all over in just a few turns. BGs need to practice their tactics a bit more if they want to pull off another heist!!!
Being I'm still learning I didn't take any photos, sorry.
I normally use three 2ftx4ft tables for WW2 gaming but for westerns I use only 2, making a 4x4 table area. On this I placed 4 locking sections of anti-fatigue matting that I painted desert yellow, making a 3ftx3ft playing area. I did manage to snap a photo of that:
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I also bought the FfOL Core Rules to try them playing WW2 squad level games. Seems like most/all of the weapons are covered so should be fun to try.
I was against trying to use rules that incorporated cards and dice. The rules I've been using used dice for everything, but I was also using lots of markers to represent what actions each figure was taking. Worked fine but after playing a few games using the Ffol rules and cards it has given me a new outlook on the card system.
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Taken as a whole, I loath card driven games. However, FFOL (basic and Bigger Battles) are an exception. The rules just work too well overall to ignore. And let you cover any period of history, fantasy, or sci-fi you want to try. Excepting for larger battles, you can use these rules for everything.
I do like the Bigger Battle rules but I wouldn't use them with too many players with very many units each. For that sort of game I use Rank and File. Two sets of rules. Much less 'brain clutter'.
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I'm playing solo and find that more than 5 on a side can be overwhelming. I spend more time looking for that 1 figure I haven't activated yet than actually playing the game. Also, started with a 4'x4' table and cut back to a 3'x3'. 4x4 gives you a lot of ground to cover if starting from the edge whereas a 3x3 gets you in the action pretty quickly.
Yesterday I played a WW2 game with 5 U.S. soldiers vs 3 Germans, 1 with a MG-42. I had some lousy dice rolls, so bad the poor MG gunner spent every other turn reloading!!! I think I wore out one of my out of ammo markers :o
I added in some Traits to several of the characters and need to remind myself to look at their data sheets when activating.
OOPs! Sorry for getting carried away with talking WW2 in the Old West forum! o_o
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Question...Are the Queen of Hearts, Queen of Spades, and Sixes the only cards that allow you to still use 2 actions in a turn? The other "Special" cards don't mention it, just the two Queens and 4 Sixes.
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Question...Are the Queen of Hearts, Queen of Spades, and Sixes the only cards that allow you to still use 2 actions in a turn? The other "Special" cards don't mention it, just the two Queens and 4 Sixes.
The answer to your question is these give a free action at the start of the figures activation before they do anything else.
For example your Cowboy who rolled a 1 and emptied his six gun last turn activates this turn on the six of spades, he gets to reload his pistol immediately for free. He then gets his normal two actions after that. So he can move, blast away, aim etc.
Its the same for shock removal (Spades) and Wounds (Hearts). If the figure has a wound, when you activate him on the queen of hearts, he immediately heals one wound then gets to use his two actions as normal.
The other special cards are either add bonuses to combat or shooting or re rolling or rolling two dice and picking the best.
The Ace can be played as any card in the deck. So it could be a Queen of Hearts to heal a figure. Remember if you declare it as the Queen of Hearts and your opponent has the real Queen of Hearts he will go before you, but you can still play it as the Queen of Hearts.
Hope that helps.
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Thanks for the response. I thought that's what it meant but sometimes I read more into something than is there, or not there. o_o
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A couple of suggestions around tracking activated figures
1) use markers to note when a figure has activated. We find this very useful as after a couple of turns it can get very complicated to recall did a figure activate at the end of last turn, or the start of this one. I just use plain MDF markers, they blend pretty well with the desert cloth I use. But you could use almost anything.
2) if you have stat cards for each figure, then ‘tap’ or rotate the figure’s card once it has activated. Less clutter on the table, but effort in making the stat cards!
And when playing solo any thing to help track statuses is good, as you don’t have another player to correct any mistakes.
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Fred,
I have some colored tokens I use in one of my other rule sets, they certainly could be used as you suggest.
I have character cards for each character, made using an Excel type spreadsheet, printed on cardstock and laminated using a laminator made by Scotch. When I activate a character I place the card that was dealt on top of the character card to remind me which character activates.
What I'm finding is I have to remind myself to not just look at what dealt card has been placed, but I also need to READ them too, else I miss the benefits of the lower number cards like the sixes and twos. I've been cursed with rolling 1s lately, getting to use a automatic reload is crucial if you want to keep your characters alive!
The 28mm western figures I have, I've given them names (Matt, Gordo, Peg-Leg Pete, etc) and have them printed on labels, cut out and stuck to their bases. I used some Avery Mailing labels, printed several names on each label, then cut them apart. For WW2 I use Squad numbers, position in the squad, rank, and name (S1-1, Sgt Wilkins).
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Yes, 6s to reload can be super important, but I often get them in turn 1, when they aren’t much use!
Putting the playing cards on the character cards is a good idea.
You can get official FFoL card decks which have the special rules on the cards.
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I was thinking of getting white, plastic shower curtain rings to use in marking figures who have activated. I like to push the numbers a bit, so keeping track does become problematic.
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I've got a bowl full of pennies I could use. Already paid for, easy to pick up, and won't slide around on the table!!! I even have some I painted that I used when I first started wargaming. 8)
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Fistful of Lead Tips & Tricks
https://youtu.be/Z2WZ-w2L7KI