Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Old West => Topic started by: Mindenbrush on March 06, 2012, 04:14:36 PM
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A friend sent me the link to the buildings which look great but may be a little fragile for gamers
http://www.wildwestmodels.com/Welcome.html
But whilst exploring their site came across the Corrogated sheets and Shingle sheets
http://www.wildwestmodels.com/Corrugated-Roofing.html
http://www.wildwestmodels.com/Shake-Shingles.html
I will certainly be ordering some of the shingles and possibly the corrogated sheets in the near future as I have an ACW barn to finish and Post-Apoc to start.
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Wow, they are nice but also very expensive. The dry goods store about made me fall over once I saw the prices...
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I found these buildings to be very pleasing, and considering the quality, I would say that the prices are not overly bad, on the contrary actually. A lot of work have been put in to this.
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Wow, they are nice but also very expensive. The dry goods store about made me fall over once I saw the prices...
More then 100 euros for a toy? Do they know about world economic crisis?
(http://blogfactory.it/crisi-economica/files/2011/09/Crisi-economica.gif)
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More then 100 euros for a toy? Do they know about world economic crisis?
(http://blogfactory.it/crisi-economica/files/2011/09/Crisi-economica.gif)
Well, its a free world, dont buy it if you think its to expensive. I would say that its in the eye of the beholder.
Me for instance, wouldent say its too much, the work to get a model house to this standard requires a lot of time and dedication. Time is worth money I dare to say. Its still a model, so it would still yeild pleasure from painting and detailing.
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Well, what both of you guys are saying is true. The economy sucks, and don't buy it if you can't afford it. Sadly, our hobby is disposable income not a thing we need to survive (some may argue this).
I do wonder sometimes about companies pushing the limits of pricing....yes, you could price at X and make huge percentage of profits, make it cheaper and make higher profits by selling more product...it was a discussion we had.
Personally, if I owned a hobby company, I would try to find that happy medium of good price and quality...it is hard to argue with volume sales over smaller portion sales at a higher profit...
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The issue is, that we as wargamers demand higher and higher quality and above all scale details, of our models, something I personally both like and endorse, however, people dont seem to want to pay for that. They want to pay as little as possible, but get the highest standard available. Its just not possible.
With the current stream of good looking models and miniatures actually being released, a higher price is to be expected, and as far as I am concerned, accepted. I can allways opt for other models, fine pieces readily available to the public, at a lower price, but if I want Tabletop Models quality, I will have to pay for it in the end. I for instance, dont like Sarissa at all, their quality is not up to my personal standard, or what I find acceptable, and hence I dont buy them. I do understand if others do it though, since they are good and fine models, they just dont suit my taste.
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Soon as I saw it was targeted towards model railroads (being one) I understood the pricing immediately. We are "collectors" of "limited run" products. To which I say >:( We don't collect, we play with our toys. And limited run just means the manufacturer makes a limited number of models to gouge the buyers. Otherwise they'd rerun the models if demand warranted. Artificial scarcity is not scarcity.
Of course, I want nice models and I want those who make them to get a good return on their time and investment but some of the stuff is just absurd. Two models of equal quality and complexity from two different firms can be eye-poppingly different in price.
Our hobby has a very different mind set (miniatures). I am forever amazed at how modelers are willing to part with their toys for song, and a bad song at that. The "fire sale" mentality seems to rule in our world in direct opposite of the model train world. Or, so has been my experience.
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I almost ordered some shales... but the shipping costs to Finland were $36.75... that is ridiculous..
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Yes, it seems like they have an automated shipping cost calulator, a common enough problem. If I where you, I would send them an email and ask if they could re-calculate the shipping cost for you.
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Yes, it seems like they have an automated shipping cost calulator, a common enough problem. If I where you, I would send them an email and ask if they could re-calculate the shipping cost for you.
yea I will send email to them. Actually it isn't that hard to make the shipping costs work right... just takes some time and willingness to put some effort into the matter :/
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Well, its a free world, dont buy it if you think its to expensive.
Happy International Women's Day:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZRs__rmYMc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZRs__rmYMc)
lol lol lol
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I hit a catch 22 shippping to the UK from the US is when a package goes beyond a specific size and weight, it has to go at minimum priority mail. Some countries you can do international 1st class (if that country has it for the US) but is for letters and boxes of very small sizes and weight. To me I think that is the worst enemy for buyers on an international scale is the shipping costs...which some people don't factor into the price value.
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I hit a catch 22 shippping to the UK from the US is when a package goes beyond a specific size and weight, it has to go at minimum priority mail. Some countries you can do international 1st class (if that country has it for the US) but is for letters and boxes of very small sizes and weight. To me I think that is the worst enemy for buyers on an international scale is the shipping costs...which some people don't factor into the price value.
I agree, the shipping can many times kill a good deal, and prohibit purchases, however, in this case, I find that the quality and good looks would be enough for me to actually make a few orders.
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It’s many years since this message was originally posted. I’ve stumbled upon it looking for terrain suitable for use with Dead Man’s Hand and Artizan old west Miniatures. I’d like it to mix with existing buildings I already own from GameCraft and Sarissa Precission.
I emailed them but received no reply, hence the following question:
Which gauge to purchase for the correct scale?!
Would the miniatures best suit S or O gauge??
I don’t know enough about railway - can any one vouch first hand to having used these beautiful kits?
Thanks in advance
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It’s many years since this message was originally posted. I’ve stumbled upon it looking for terrain suitable for use with Dead Man’s Hand and Artizan old west Miniatures. I’d like it to mix with existing buildings I already own from GameCraft and Sarissa Precission.
I emailed them but received no reply, hence the following question:
Which gauge to purchase for the correct scale?!
Would the miniatures best suit S or O gauge??
I don’t know enough about railway - can any one vouch first hand to having used these beautiful kits?
Thanks in advance
Unfortunately, it's a bit of a lawyer's answer: "It depends".
Commonly, in the UK, 0 gauge is usually 1/43, whereas in the US it is commonly 1/48 (i.e. smaller overall loco on the same track). 1/43 is a bit big except for the largest of figures labeled as "28mm", whereas 1/48 0 Gauge should work out right with figures like Black Scorpion's large cowboy figures.
If you use Wargames Foundry, Dixon or similar, 1/48 is likely to look a bit large, and 1/43 is probably out of the question. In my experience, Artizan (and the later Foundry figures, e.g. Mountain Men range) fall somewhere between the two, so 1/48 US O Gauge could work. I probably wouldn't mind, but I am more in the "looks right" camp rather than adhering to scales.
I have never seen S gauge models in the flesh, so cannot comment on it, but if you do anything beyond small skirmishes and if the train is supposed to be "set dressing", I'd probably go for the slightly smaller option, too.
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Thanks for your reply.
So the S gauge is smaller, right?
Is this what you would recommend - do you have any Sarissa Precision kits, and understand the size I’m trying to achieve?