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Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: aggro84 on October 17, 2012, 04:37:14 AM
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I have a hard time painting really fine details like eyes for example.
I read in another thread where someone used a micro pen to do some fine detail work.
Does anyone else use them?
Do they work ok, or should I just keep at the brush work?
What is a good brand?
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I use the pens alot.
They work best on fairly flat areas of the figure.
I do find the you can't get to certain areas with the pen.
A brush would work better.
Buy a few and try them out.
Last time I checked they run about $3.00 a piece.
Buy the Micron 01 to try out.
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I confess to using these sometimes for pupils and eyebrows and the like (you can often get them in a nice sepia, rather than an offputting black).
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On the recommendation of the divine Jennifer Haley, I've taken to using them for the pupils of eyes (although she seems to have switched back to brushes for that purpose herself now...). I actually like the black for pupils, as the ink is slightly shiny and you get a realistic little bit of reflectivity.
They're also handy for mind-boggling little details like newsprint, the faces of playing cards, writing on scrolls, etc.
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I use them for eyelashes, or rather to give eye slits that final definition.
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I've used them to go over panel lines on my 15mm vehicles :
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd388/zizi666/15mm%20SF/IMG_2943.jpg)
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Thank everyone! It sounds like I should really give them a go. :D
I'll be sure to share my experiences with them.
Nice tanks zizi666 by the way.
So micro pens is the brand name?
If I drop by my friendly neighborhood art supply store and ask to see their micro pens, they will know what I'm talking about?
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Thank everyone! It sounds like I should really give them a go. :D
I'll be sure to share my experiences with them.
Nice tanks zizi666 by the way.
So micro pens is the brand name?
If I drop by my friendly neighborhood art supply store and ask to see their micro pens, they will know what I'm talking about?
They SHOULD do, but then again...
The Faber-Castell Pitt range are worth looking at. The superfine sepia is a great tool. Alternatives include Pigma micron (never used, but come with a fantastic reputation. Maybe easier to get in the US?) and (late edit) Rotring Tikky.
None are cheap, though, and over time a Rotring Rapidograph might start to look more economical. The down side is the limited range of inks for Rapidographs.
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Thank everyone! It sounds like I should really give them a go. :D
I'll be sure to share my experiences with them.
Nice tanks zizi666 by the way.
So micro pens is the brand name?
If I drop by my friendly neighborhood art supply store and ask to see their micro pens, they will know what I'm talking about?
thanks and no, I believe the one I used is a Staedler Pigment Liner. Dunno what size as I can't seem to recall where I left it, but probably the smallest one which would be 0.0 5mm. (Whole appartment is a mess and I'm still in the process of tidying up :-[)
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Thank everyone! It sounds like I should really give them a go. :D
I'll be sure to share my experiences with them.
Nice tanks zizi666 by the way.
So micro pens is the brand name?
If I drop by my friendly neighborhood art supply store and ask to see their micro pens, they will know what I'm talking about?
I use the Sakura brand exclusively as they use archival quality ink and sport exceptional points. This is the link:
http://www.sakuraofamerica.com/Pen-Archival
I can't say enough nice things about them. I find the tips on all the better micron pens to be quite sensitive to pressure. So, my only advice would be to use a very gentle touch for best results and longevity of the pen itself. Good luck! You'll have to post some pics after you've tried one out.
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None are cheap, though, and over time a Rotring Rapidograph might start to look more economical. The down side is the limited range of inks for Rapidographs.
Hmm, I have a Rapidograph set in a box upstairs from uni. Not like I do a lot of technical drawing these days. Might have to dig it out and give it a try on some figures.
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Hmm, I have a Rapidograph set in a box upstairs from uni. Not like I do a lot of technical drawing these days. Might have to dig it out and give it a try on some figures.
I still use mine for illustration work (my 0.25mm is my go-to for line work), and occassionally on mini's. The problem is that Rotring ink runs to black, red, blue and ... er that's it. I've got on much better with sepia on mini's than black (it always seems too stark to me). Winsor and Newton drawing ink (which I love otherwise) has never worked for me in these pens, which is a bit limiting.
I'm informed that the Daler-Rowney FW acrylic ink works in technical pens, but I've never tried it. I'll have a punt and if it does, I'll post and let people know.
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Yep. Straight black is usually too overpowering. I know the micro pens have a brown/sepia which does come in the .005 size, so I use that. I will use the black for pupils though. It does work alright there.
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I'm informed that the Daler-Rowney FW acrylic ink works in technical pens, but I've never tried it. I'll have a punt and if it does, I'll post and let people know.
That would be good to know, cheers.
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Thanks a lot guys: That's a lot of really useful information.
I really love this forum and how everyone is so helpful.
I'll probably hit the art supply store tomorrow.
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I use Pigma Micron pens, and I've found them to be good value. Be sure that whatever brand you choose uses waterproof ink, though...
In my experience, Rapidograph pens clog far too easily and provide nothing but frustration... >:(
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Thanks! Good to know.
I bought black and brown moron pens yesterday.
I already forgot the brand. ;D
Ill have to test them out first.
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I bought black and brown moron pens yesterday.
Oh aggro, I'm afraid you might find using those to be quite frustrating.
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lol lol lol
Work gave me an Ipad recently.
Of course, I take it home and goof off with it on the weekends.
I'm not used to the way it replaces words sometimes. :D
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I use Pigma Micron pens, and I've found them to be good value. Be sure that whatever brand you choose uses waterproof ink, though...
In my experience, Rapidograph pens clog far too easily and provide nothing but frustration... >:(
Interesting, this. I've read that about 50% of users swear by them, and the other 50% swear AT them! I've got on very well, and my experience has been that problems arise from the ink, not the pens.
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No pics to show, but I gave the micro pens a go last night.
So far they worked fantastic! :D
All those wasted years. :'(
Thanks again for everyone's help.
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No pics to show, but I gave the micro pens a go last night.
So far they worked fantastic! :D
All those wasted years. :'(
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Glad it worked for you! If you're anything like me you'll find things to do with them you hadn't thought about!
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I snapped a quick pic of my first effort.
I used Pigma Brand brown and black.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M_NwPyB1WeY/UI17SNxSmpI/AAAAAAAAA5g/n3HT7qOl59w/s1600/IMG_6973.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w6x9oQs75bk/UI17TFYUTwI/AAAAAAAAA5o/HEwT-xTbtak/s1600/IMG_6974.JPG)
Again, I was really impressed with how easy they worked.
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What's to not like?Thanks for sharing - onward and upward!!!
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Zombie eyes no more!
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Zombie eyes no more!
Hey! ;D
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Guys,
I've tried my Rotring Isographs with Rowney FW acrylic ink. Well, OK, I've tried my 0.25mm tip one with the sepia ink...
And it works really nicely on paper and minis. Based on this I'm willing to give other colours a go and if it flows in a 0.25, there should be no problem with the bigger tips. I'm hoping to get quite a lot more use out of my Rotrings now I've found these inks work in them. I've found a 0.25 is just about the upper limit for line work on faces. I'm tempted to look for a 0.18 or a 0.15 to add to my set.
Hope this helps,
Mitch
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I've yet to run into any bleeding issues with my pigma brand pens. :D
I have not sprayed them with an enamel yet though.
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Hey guys,
Thanks for sharing. I'm intrigued! I went out and picked one up today and shall give them a try tonight :-)
Cheers,
Tenz
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And it works really nicely on paper and minis.
Great news, thanks for trying.
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I've yet to run into any bleeding issues with my pigma brand pens. :D
I have not sprayed them with an enamel yet though.
To a first estimate, if it'll move the ink, it'll probably move the paint as well! Most pen inks are pretty stable when hit with acrylic or enamel based materials. You'll hit problems if you use something heavily alcohol based or that involves a strong organic solvent (acetone, dichloromethane, ethyl acetate etc).
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Great news, thanks for trying.
No problem! One of the downsides of using Rotrings for me was the parlous selection of ink colours. Black's too stark for a lot of things and brilliant red, blue or green have limited applications! The Rowney FW range is pretty big and intermixable, so this might be the beginning of a new era for me.