Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Sangennaru on December 03, 2013, 11:13:53 AM
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Hi there!
I just started a very new project, inspired by the architecture of Dredd (2012) and Pacific Rim (2013).
My basic conceps drawn while watching Pacific Rim:
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2e196x5.jpg)
First i thought to go for 3d, but after a few concepts i decided it was too expensive, still i made some sketches:
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2112gdh.jpg)
So... i started working manually. The base is in Eulithe (http://www.thelazyforger.com/tutorials/sculpting-bricks-with-eulithe/), then coated with very wet ceramic plaster. The roughness of the Eulithe makes it completely merger with plaster, resulting in a very versatile material.
Here's my very first work so far:
(http://i41.tinypic.com/24dg1fq.jpg)
Cheers
Jack
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Nice Jack. You and I still need to touch base on those other building ideas at some stage. Early 2014?
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Nice Jack. You and I still need to touch base on those other building ideas at some stage. Early 2014?
Why not! From March i will be located in Canada, but it's not a great difference, internet is everywhere! :D
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How long for? And what about your moulding equipment?
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How long for? And what about your moulding equipment?
my moulding equipment is composed mainly from my hands. Of cours i can't bring with me more than 1 or 2 kg of silicon moulds, but for that reason i'm keeping for Canada my WWII 28mm project, which is freezed since 8-9 months, and probably some other small 3d modelling and casting!
I'll be back next November, but hopefully i'll manage to go back to Canada undefinitely. :)
BTW, more progresses pretty soon! =)
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Canada? Why? Studies?
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And nice project btw ;)
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And nice project btw ;)
I'll be using your models, why they will arrive at my home! :D
yeah, master degree thesis at the University of Guelph! :D
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Ok, before night, the updates:
After the first column i made some more:
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2uqey4o.jpg)
I'm now working on the walls sections. They are 4 x 6 cm, 3mm thick.
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2mq3jiv.jpg)
All this project is just a test, i want to see what i can do in this style. Then i'll think about 3d printing or whatever. :)
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Looking good Jack. Nice! :D
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Hey! The University of Guelph is where I went to school!
Let me know if you have any questions about the town or university!
Oh and the buildings look very promising too. ;)
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Hey! The University of Guelph is where I went to school!
Let me know if you have any questions about the town or university!
Oh and the buildings look very promising too. ;)
at the moment the building is nothing more than three plaster pieces, i hope it'll get better soon!
I'll write you via PM, a Guelphian is always useful! ;)
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So... i started working manually. The base is in Eulithe, then coated with very wet ceramic plaster. The roughness of the Eulithe makes it completely merger with plaster, resulting in a very versatile material.
I reckon that stuff may just be Phenolic Foam aka "Balsa Foam" under a different tradename, it both looks like it and your description sounds just like it.
I use it for carving fantasy stuff..just started doing some new stuff with it actually and its great stuff.
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I reckon that stuff may just be Phenolic Foam aka "Balsa Foam" under a different tradename, it both looks like it and your description sounds just like it.
I use it for carving fantasy stuff..just started doing some new stuff with it actually and its great stuff.
Yep, probably it's a kind of balsafoam... but much cheaper! =)
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A small update, while finishing 10 cowboys in 15mm (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=60480.msg731128#msg731128):
(http://i40.tinypic.com/16hoxhk.jpg)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/1i1uts.jpg)
and i started also same walls. They are just experiments, i'll have to see what will be better to do!
(http://i42.tinypic.com/15p5uhj.jpg)
Cheers
Jack
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I started working on some light covers:
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2vlo2sn.jpg)
they will be not used for mold making, just for my gaming purposes.
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Aaand... sorry for the triple posting, another update, some first small buildings done!
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2u5b7ub.jpg)
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By all means keep double posting. There might not be a lot to say about this yet but it will be interesting to watch the whole process unfold all the same.
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Yep, got your point. However, having suggestions and feedback in the making is useful to add the right detail, and to do the appropriate changes!
However, some news in the workbench:
Firstly, some experiments with barbed wire and net fences. both were successful tests, i will produce several of both in the future.
(http://i42.tinypic.com/nz3fqw.jpg)
Meanwhile, i started some District Nine Shanti15mm buildings, inspired by - well - my own shanti in 28mm, and by Agis of course.
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2e3wrvo.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2nbsfax.jpg)
comments and feedback appreciated! :)
Cheers
Jack
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Shanty town looks great jack, but how about casting up some wooden doors and windows and add those intothe construction?
I'll pm u later... ;)
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That's a possibility, why not! For the moment most of those "blocks" are just composable, but yeah, i should really make some doors! Will wait the PM!
Meanwhile, i've finished detailing the two buildings:
(http://i40.tinypic.com/20rsbqu.jpg)
The windmill is the only source of power of the city, so there will be some around...
The chair is from a set of 50 pendants i bought for a dollar or two. removing the last part it looks like a perfect 15mm chair. I'm not shure that a shrimp can actually SIT on it. lol
(http://i41.tinypic.com/kf4l5k.jpg)
Cheers
Jack
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On request from the topic author, I've moved this to the Workbench since it became more of a techniques thread, which may also be useful to other users and not strictly limited to the SciFi aspects.
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I really like the looks of these shanties.
As a kid I used to go to a summer event where we build huge huts out of pallets and other woods donated by local industry. Reminds me a lot of those structures. lol
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that shanty is lovely ;-)
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That's a brilliant amount of work Jack! Do you have a vision of where this is going? I see you Dredd and District9....
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Thanks guys! I've been working now on some more shanties. The "concrete" part of this project is now temprorarly freezed, i need some more inspiration for that (and some money for investiment in 3d printed shapes, maybe? Antenociti, what do you think? :D)...
That's a brilliant amount of work Jack! Do you have a vision of where this is going? I see you Dredd and District9....
Yep, now i'm basically inspired by shanties (that i've seen in abundance in India and even in Philipines during my travels) and by the "feeling" of District9... But yes, Dredd is the base (together with Pacific Rim) for the look of the concrete works! =)
that shanty is lovely ;-)
Man, i definitely need more of your Slater corrugated panels! :D
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This is a great project - thanks for sharing!
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thanks! While waiting the rain to stop so i can use my airbrush again on the shanties, i've done something on a 50 cents toy i found on a discount store:
(http://i41.tinypic.com/293g7rq.jpg)
(http://i43.tinypic.com/mjrfqg.jpg)
ok, lots of work more needed, i need to add many many details, tubes and cables on that fat guy. But it'll be a great behemoth! (and no, actually it's not a scenery :D)
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Hell yeah! :o :-* ;D
Nice bit of conversion work.
That is one brilliant Super Mutie/Troll thing.
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Jack.. do you view the world through a microscope? I love how much detail into your builds.
And I cannot believe that Lotr troll knockoff cost 50c! Was it second hand? Either way, that is a brilliant find Jack.
Cheers
Matt
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A small update, while finishing 10 cowboys in 15mm (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=60480.msg731128#msg731128):
(http://i40.tinypic.com/16hoxhk.jpg)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/1i1uts.jpg)
and i started also same walls. They are just experiments, i'll have to see what will be better to do!
(http://i42.tinypic.com/15p5uhj.jpg)
Cheers
Jack
wow, missed this, this is great... how do they look for 28mm? will they be available for sale?
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Jack.. do you view the world through a microscope? I love how much detail into your builds.
And I cannot believe that Lotr troll knockoff cost 50c! Was it second hand? Either way, that is a brilliant find Jack.
heh, the troll was an attachment to a Deagostini line, but all the remnants are then gathered in a big discount store. It's in metal, but not pewter nor lead... that's not a great model, but it's pre-painted after all. I would offer to buy some and ship around, but they weight something like 3-400 grams each, so the shipping will be crazy! :D
wow, missed this, this is great... how do they look for 28mm? will they be available for sale?
They are 40mm tall, not really suitable for 28mm imho. But sculpting bigger ones is not a big deal at all!
Those were just some tests for a set for any 15mm company interested. I've sold many things in the past, but it's a very time consuming activity, and i'm not sure i want to sell things anymore... BUT master sculpts for companies... that's much better for me!
So: if some companies are interested in such a line of pieces, i would give them happily! ^^ if you have any contact or suggestion, anevilgiraffe, please feel free to PM me! :)
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Some updates:
I just finished my first experiment with "hairspray chipping"... i've still a lot to learn, but it's a great start imho!
(http://i40.tinypic.com/v668vt.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/anxx5u.jpg)
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NICE! love it! Also love the little clan/gang/whatever circular tag.
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I like the small irregular sheets of corrugated iron. Quite convincing Jack. But the paint looks a little flat/even. Any way to put a little more depth into it mate?
Cheers
Matt
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I think that looks brill!! I didn't realise how small that quite was! I know you did say it was 15mm......cracking!
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I like the small irregular sheets of corrugated iron. Quite convincing Jack. But the paint looks a little flat/even. Any way to put a little more depth into it mate?
Cheers
Matt
exactely my thought.. any ideas? I'm now trying a different approach on the other model, but i would love to find some solutions to give more "light" to the panels. Of course, adding all the small details might do the job, but... well that "blue" colour is waaaay to dars, it doesn't give the needed contrast with the rust!
Please, fellow LAFers, come in my support! :D
Cheers
Jack
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After the salt/spray paint try some stippling? I think the spray paints overlap too much and make it "fuzzy", so add some shadows, darker rust, lighter weathered paint etc with brushes?
My 2cents
Matt
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Will do for sure... but i think the main problem is the surface color: the blue is tooo dark! what colors are more appropriate for this kind of materials?
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Ok, i had two more tests... i need opinions my friends! I don't know what to do! :S
(http://i44.tinypic.com/im74f4.jpg)
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Jack, I like what you are doing and would be proud to have it all on my table. Going forward, all I can suggest is start with a much lighter base-colour. I fall into the same trap when painting 15mm kit, trying to work up from a base that is too dark.
I would leave it as it is, because it looks great.. But you could go back and selectively hit certain areas with a lighter coloured filter, a very pale grey? Just to break it up.
Randomly airbrushing a pale tan around the lower areas, to simulate dust, will also contribute a lighter tone to the thing.
Your salt-chipping is really well done, so keep it up!
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Jack, I like what you are doing and would be proud to have it all on my table. Going forward, all I can suggest is start with a much lighter base-colour. I fall into the same trap when painting 15mm kit, trying to work up from a base that is too dark.
I would leave it as it is, because it looks great.. But you could go back and selectively hit certain areas with a lighter coloured filter, a very pale grey? Just to break it up.
Randomly airbrushing a pale tan around the lower areas, to simulate dust, will also contribute a lighter tone to the thing.
Your salt-chipping is really well done, so keep it up!
Thanks Mr!
Actually, that's what i've learned so far about chipping:
1 - The base rust coat must be dark
2 - you cannot put a lighter color after the hairspray if you intend to paint in a darker color afterward, otherwise you'll have some white spots when removing the layers
3 - the more layers of color you'll put after the hairspray, the more "roundish" the chipping will be. With a single layer you'll have a very dispersive chipping, with a lot of tiny scratches around. You can also make "linear scratches", and that's great. If you start puntting 3 or 4 layers of paint, the chipped areas will be wider and more definite (as in the white barrier).. I wouldn't say it's bad in all the situations, but it's mostly avoidable indeed.
So basically, after the dark rust layer i should just start with the darker colours, masking all the panels i want to have painted in different tones. Another possibility would be to paint the various corrugated parts with the brush, but the layer will be thicker...
Aww. that's so complicated! >___<
Anyway, some scale reference with my thumb.
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2m3343s.jpg)
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I find it is easiest to work with a light grey or metallic base, do the chipping and then add rust effects after, as rust tends to bleed all over top of everything anyhow.
But as they say, there are many ways to skin a cat, and you are getting awesome results.
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I did some more experiments on the other building,.... i made a HUGE mess, but at the end something nice came out!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/windmill-4.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/windmill-3.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/windmill-5.jpg)
please, any suggestion is really appreciated!
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Looking good Jack. :) I like your chips, and base metal sections.
... What about rust streaks? I've also noticed in real life some sheets are fully rusted and some are not.
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That's cool and very rusty! I like your detail work on everything. Maybe print out a few more labels or packing materials to add to the awesome paint work. I found some cool M.n.u. Posters and some cat food labels lol
Man those shanties are tiny and packed with detail. Great work!
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That's cool and very rusty! I like your detail work on everything. Maybe print out a few more labels or packing materials to add to the awesome paint work. I found some cool M.n.u. Posters and some cat food labels lol
Man those shanties are tiny and packed with detail. Great work!
Thanks Ben!
could you do an upload with the posters all at once? It would be greeeeat! :)
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Lovely scenery! Have you got the District 9 art book?
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The stuff is at work, When I go back I'll look for it and email it to you.
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Looking great!
You need some AK-Interactive streaking grime in your life! It really helps this sort of thing 'pop'.
But blimey, very detailed. :)
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What is the corrogated iron made from ?
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Thanks everyone! three more are on the workbench, plus other 4, shaped but not done yet...
What is the corrogated iron made from ?
It's a slater sheet. I'm gonna buy some of them quite soon!
Lovely scenery! Have you got the District 9 art book?
I have seen some pictures of it online! seems very interesting, but i'm looking for a more generic style... d9-ish, but not too strict! ^^
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A minor update: i started 3d modelling some robots for my 15mm scenery.
Progresses are shown in a separated thread:
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=61684.msg740248#msg740248
Cheers
Jack
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Some updates on the 15mm front: This time i'll make the order, so i'll have a proper walls section soon!
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2a4vgyb.jpg)
Many other details will be also printed in Frosted Ultra detail! But no photos, i'm lazy :d
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Aaaand.. they arrived! For tonight i'll just show a picture of the walls. Those have been scratched just for show, i'll be sculpt some better ones for "commercial" purpose!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/scifiscenery2.jpg)
I'll leave the rest for the next days... but here's also some doors, bills and other stuff:
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/scifiscenery1.jpg)
Goodnight,
Jack
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Very nice Jacky me boy! :)
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That all looks cracking bud! :-* :-* :-*
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After a year of sleep, it's time to nechrothread this project!
i made a few more shanti buildings, and i managed to paint one. After a rust color primer i applied the hair spray, then a layer of light gray:
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/P3046561.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/P3046564.jpg)
After the paint dried, i did the chipping with some hard brushes. Then, i applied some light washes on the panels, to change their colors.
Of course i could have painted the panels before the chipping, adding a thick layer of the new color, but when removing the layers for the chipping the white background could pop out. This way it's safer.
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/P3046569.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/P3046571.jpg)
Then, a protective spray layer and ... OILS.
That was a mistake, and i won't use them anytime soon for my other shanti buildings.The corrugated panels kept a lot of pigment, and the result was ways too dark.
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/P3056577.jpg)
With a good softbox and lights i managed to take some decent photos but... the next buildings will be better, i hope.
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/shantipainted1.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/shanti1.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/shanti2.jpg)
Any opinion is strongly welcomed, especially if it's a suggestion for the painting of my next pieces!
Cheers!
Jack
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Looking good. I agree it got a little dark, but the chipping effect worked well at least! Maybe go back and add a few dabs of a lighter rust red in some of the "worst" spots once the chipping is done? The rust colour is just a little too even, given the larger areas of rust you have, I think. If it was just dots here or there, less variation is fine, but broad areas need a greater range of tones.
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The oil paint wouldn't 'wash off' with thinner while you were working on the piece?
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:o :-*
That is a triumph of corrugation!
Will you make these in 15mm only, or might you replicate in 28mm as well?
Would go very well with my Copplestone Future Wars / Pig Iron collection :)
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Whoah,I like those!
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Thanks everyone!
Looking good. I agree it got a little dark, but the chipping effect worked well at least! Maybe go back and add a few dabs of a lighter rust red in some of the "worst" spots once the chipping is done? The rust colour is just a little too even, given the larger areas of rust you have, I think. If it was just dots here or there, less variation is fine, but broad areas need a greater range of tones.
perfecly right about the rust flatness, but i just wanted to apply it quickly with the airbrush, so... :S
I don't think i'll edit that build anymore, i'll work on the other ones first!
The oil paint wouldn't 'wash off' with thinner while you were working on the piece?
It does, but it's hard to control the oils in such a small surface. Besides, the solvent tends to remove the acrilic paint too, so i couldn't stay more on each part.
:o :-*
That is a triumph of corrugation!
Will you make these in 15mm only, or might you replicate in 28mm as well?
Would go very well with my Copplestone Future Wars / Pig Iron collection :)
I did one in 28mm a while ago, for a painter that never painted it. :( http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=46266.0
I'll work on 15mm because it's the scale i'm playing with, but for 28mm the level of details i can achieve is quite higher, as you can see in the link above ^^
I still have the molds to cast the corrugated panels for 28mm... casting them is quite a pain, but the resulting resin pieces are sweet! ^^
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Ooh that's gorgeous Sangennaru. As I always expect from you. The irregular builds are very pleasing to the eye. 8) 8)
Paint, Mmm, I am no expert, but I have had a little practice the last year.
The chipping looks fab.
A rust red primer could be a good place to start?
I would then use an acrylic burnt umber wash, followed by stippling neat burnt umber, and burnt umber/black in the heavily rusted areas.
then a little burnt sienna in rusty spots (wipe off anything that's not in a crevice).
Then a little burnt sienna wash running down the walls.
But a quick fix may just be dry brushing your dirt/dust colour of choice along the bottom and along the ridges of the corrugated iron. That may help lift it.
I'm no pro as can be seen from my shonky efforts, but I'm keen to watch any solution you come up with 8)
Cheers
Matt
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Thank you Constable! I think that for now i'll leave the "painted mistake" as it is, and i'll go on with the other four and a few other elements i've done (mainly walls). Once i've finished all of them i'll think what to do with the first. I might even consider to let it stay there... or darken it more and make it look like a burnt building...
I really have to decide yet...
Meanwhile, the houses got their white layer, now it's time for chipping, today!
cheers
Jack
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A few more things painted for my games, in particular some 15mm containers! Sooner or later produced by ClearHorizon miniatures.
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/Giacomo_Pantalone/11080669_813812602000996_8727362864280299818_o_zpsklqpod1r.jpg)
This time, NO OILS, only some water+paint+future washes and pigments.
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Hello everyone! First of all, my apologies if the last pictures aren't visible anymore, my site is now down and i managed to recover only the pictures i took up to a certain point. Now, for something related but not completely the same, i'm sharing here the first two tiles of my Round of Fire table!
Another two to come!
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/Giacomo_Pantalone/13112967_1003822376333350_8022843281393599238_o_zpskxgxe6uo.jpg)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/Giacomo_Pantalone/13094309_1003822373000017_4501830899278849605_n_zps8bbrqyl2.jpg)
Feedback and C&C welcomed! :)
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Very glad you put some of those lines diagonal instead of sticking to orthogonal. People always seem to put their urban stuff in a strict grid, but if you look at actual urban sprawls most of them don't have a straight line in them.
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Very glad you put some of those lines diagonal instead of sticking to orthogonal. People always seem to put their urban stuff in a strict grid, but if you look at actual urban sprawls most of them don't have a straight line in them.
Thanks! However, if we will play using the grid, we will have to put scenery more or less orthogonally. But yeah, breaking the usual scheme is always nice! ^_^
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That's cracking! Is that 3D or printed?
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That's cracking! Is that 3D or printed?
Thanks!! It's hand-sculpted! Well, i sculpted the tiles and then cast them! But i'm now SERIOUSLY considering the idea of scanning it, and after a bit of postproduction putting it available as a printable pdf!
That might work, no?
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Very great work as usual Mr. Lazy Sir!
The Floortile would really make a good base to scan for a PDF imo.
Cheers Delta
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Oh wow, I actually thought it was a painted image printed out on a sheet. The fact that it's real and fully 3D makes it that much more amazing!
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Thank you!! I shall probably try that once i've done the four tiles!!
And yes, this is definitely 3D:
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/Giacomo_Pantalone/13161425_10209211532908018_273867223_o_zpskfsaqs1n.jpg)
Meanwhile, i've added a big update on the Round of Fire page, the game i'll use this table with! The idea is to have the possibility to play both with the ruler or using the tiles for distances, which are provided by the concrete tiling of the table itself!
Take a read to the update in the thread!
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=71748.msg1111594#msg1111594
Cheers
Jack
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Beautiful terrain, and very nicely made. It's been years of inspiration and great tutorials from your posts and blog.
Thank you :)
Cheers
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And the table is completed!
Here's a "whole" photo!
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/Giacomo_Pantalone/campo_zpsst7brjni.jpg)
Cheers
Jack
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Just to add a close-up photo:
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/Giacomo_Pantalone/DSC04036_zpswwnqldnb.jpg)
cheers (again)
Jack
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Wicked Sangennaru! 8) 8) 8)
Every outlaw robot colony needs a shanty town. Very cool. 8) 8)
Cheers
Matt
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After some LONG time i've finally digitalized the table, and after spending several hours merging the parts, fixing the chipping and blending the colours i can call it done! It will be on WargameVault within days, as a 2x2 or 3x3 table!
(http://thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/presentation.jpg)
The table has the standard dimensions for playing Round of Fire, btw.
Cheers
Jack
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Dude that's super good - I wonder how well this would gel with deep cut studios new mat printing service? Now that would be nice!
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And it's out!
http://www.wargamevault.com/product/230740/Industrial-Battleground-Mat
Priced 3.99$, various sizes and formats included!
Dude that's super good - I wonder how well this would gel with deep cut studios new mat printing service? Now that would be nice!
I'm actually speaking with them right now for some "fast lane" in their system.
Other than that, if you settle for a sligthly lower quality, i've included pre-filled templates and instructions for PixartPrinting.
They offer an enormous range of printing services, but using the PVC printing you can have a 3x3 table for as little as 9 Euros, or two 2x2 table for the same. It's a very, VERY competitive price, i've got several things printed by them, and i've been always happy with the results!
Try it out!
Jack