Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: 6milPhil on March 02, 2014, 01:13:17 AM
-
An interesting technique worth trying I think. 8)
http://ccmodelworks.com/articles/ultramarine-painting-pt2/ (http://ccmodelworks.com/articles/ultramarine-painting-pt2/)
-
'Tis a very old trick well known to armor modelers. I'm always a bit fascinated by how common stuff from the display modelling world sometimes seems to catch gaming modelers by surprise, as it seems to highlight a lack of overlap between populations.
A more recent version is to spray a light coat of hairspray (no, really) at the layer one would apply salt in the above method (instead of salt, not in addition to). After applying the top color(s)), use a wet stiff brush to selectively dissolve and abrade the hairspray undercoat, allow to re-dry, then fix with clear coat. It gives results similar to the salt method, but with a lot more control, and allows you to do things like scrapes/scratches and soft wear spots as well as the flaking effect.
-
I've used liquid rubber in a similar way.
rust undercoat, stippled the rubber on the model with some sponge (the real stuff, not the foam you find in blisters), sprayed the color layer and once dry I just rubbed of the rubber patches. Maybe not as much control as the Original salt/hairspray technique, but it does the trick for me :)
-
Yes, it is a good trick.
On a side note I find it a bit funny that Space Marine armor would rust like an old Chevy truck in the back yard. Aren't they supposed to be made out of something like multiresitanium? lol
-
I've used liquid rubber in a similar way.
rust undercoat, stippled the rubber on the model with some sponge (the real stuff, not the foam you find in blisters), sprayed the color layer and once dry I just rubbed of the rubber patches. Maybe not as much control as the Original salt/hairspray technique, but it does the trick for me :)
There is *more* control in the rubber mask technique, if you ask me. You cannot really control where the salt sticks with a hairspray base.
-
There is *more* control in the rubber mask technique, if you ask me. You cannot really control where the salt sticks with a hairspray base.
The hairspray is not used to affix salt. The hairspray is used in place of salt. No salt is used in the hairspray method.
It is like painting the entire surface with a liquid mask that only peels when and where you re-wet it after the top color is painted on.
1. Paint your metal/rust color
2. Spray on hairspray
2. Paint on top color. Wait for top color to dry
4. Use stiff wet brush (or a wet bit of wood, or whatever as long as it abrades and holds water) to selectively abrade the top color by softening the hairspray underneath
5. Wait for hairspray to re-dry
6. Seal with clear coat to fix
Both salt and liquid mask can only peel in the preapplied pattern of dabs/grains. Liquid mask gives you more control, but it's easy to make effects that look unnatural/unrealistic because they're shaped by a painterly hand. Salt is chaotic, but it always looks natural because the process mimics the natural one.
Hairspray combines the open-ended control of liquid mask with the assured realism of salt.
-
I'm a bit unsure about the hairspray method. Your entire top paint layer is basically sitting on top of crap primer (hairspray) and you're trusting the varnish to protect it.
This may be all fine and dandy for display models that don't get handled much if at all, but does it really stand up to gaming use?
I do varnish, but not heavily enough to guarantee every nook and cranny is covered. And occasionally I need to wash my models bacause they've collected too much dust on the shelf... if it ain't waterproof, it ain't good for me.
With the salt method, the volatile component is literally washed away and you're left with more or less regular paint layers.
-
There's chipping solution available from companies like AK Interactive and MIG. Tutorial using it here (http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?116134-Heavy-Paint-Chipping-Tutorial)
I've used it on a few vehicles and I didn't get the impression that it would flake off. What I did notice was that it stayed active for weeks, so washing your models to clean them may reactivate the solution. I suppose this means they would get more worn with time, which is even more realistic o_o
-
The hairspray is not used to affix salt. The hairspray is used in place of salt. No salt is used in the hairspray method.
It is like painting the entire surface with a liquid mask that only peels when and where you re-wet it after the top color is painted on.
1. Paint your metal/rust color
2. Spray on hairspray
2. Paint on top color. Wait for top color to dry
4. Use stiff wet brush (or a wet bit of wood, or whatever as long as it abrades and holds water) to selectively abrade the top color by softening the hairspray underneath
5. Wait for hairspray to re-dry
6. Seal with clear coat to fix
Both salt and liquid mask can only peel in the preapplied pattern of dabs/grains. Liquid mask gives you more control, but it's easy to make effects that look unnatural/unrealistic because they're shaped by a painterly hand. Salt is chaotic, but it always looks natural because the process mimics the natural one.
Hairspray combines the open-ended control of liquid mask with the assured realism of salt.
I never tried the hairspray only method. I bow to your expertise.
-
I'm a bit unsure about the hairspray method. Your entire top paint layer is basically sitting on top of crap primer (hairspray) and you're trusting the varnish to protect it.
This may be all fine and dandy for display models that don't get handled much if at all, but does it really stand up to gaming use?
That's a good point, and to be fair, I've never stress-tested the technique to gaming standard. I'd be interested in trying that stuff Zemjw linked. Seems like it should be entirely possible for someone to design a product that would fulfill the same function as the hairspray for this method, but which would be more secure when fully cured.