Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Sangennaru on September 17, 2014, 07:04:51 PM
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That's my first experiment with paper terrain. I tried to imitate the style of Borderlands and Borderlands 2, and i'm rather happy of the first humble result for this concrete block, after half an hour (or more?) of photoshop:
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/pilone.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/pilone2.jpg)
I used pepakura (http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/) to convert the mesh and the hand drawn texture into a foldable image:
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/pilotto.png)
I'm not sure i will build a whole set with this, i'm already busy sculpting real stuff... but I think it was worth sharing! :)
comments are welcome!
Jack
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Very good! I also use Pepakura, good program. Just remember to watch closely where you put the tabs. A "lid" should never have any flaps, for example.
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Very good! I also use Pepakura, good program. Just remember to watch closely where you put the tabs. A "lid" should never have any flaps, for example.
thanks for the suggestion, i'm completely noob in this field, but i'm liking what came out from the photoshop :D
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I like the more stylized appearance. Works very well with paper terrain, I think.
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Excellent idea; very well executed.
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Some more elaborated terrain now: a column. The geometry is now a bit more elaborated, and the style also changed, following some great tutorials online! :)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/screenedit.jpg)
And, thanks again to pepakura, that's the foldable print:
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/fold.jpg)
any suggestion? =)
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Great improvememnt and excellent result.
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Thanks Cherno! I'll now try to change the color or maybe remove some bumps, just to have more variety in the model!
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I've just played with the photoshop colours... not a really thought job, but still that's nice!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/threcolours.jpg)
cheers,
Jack
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Wow, great!
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Aaand, the first piece is assembled!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/P9245102.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/P9245103.jpg)
Soon i'll do the others. Hopefully.
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Good, clean results. Some white showing where the printed layer broke, but that's a neccessary evil that I wasn't able to avoid either.
My own Pepakura efforts are in this thread:
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=46259.0
Namely the street lights. they have magnets in their bases so they stick to the floor tiles (which also have magnets), maybe it's something you'd want to try out yourself :)
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I'm well aware of your paper scenery, and they are really awesome! I didn't know about the magnets, i suppose that migth be a brilliant solution!
I covered most of the white scratches with a black marker, but some were left, and the photo enhanced the effect... :S
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This is excellent. I'm not a paper model creator, just a builder and I love these.
The column is excellent and you could do walls and doors to go with it.
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Yes, Sangennaru has an excellent column in the paper.
lol
I'll just be going now... ;D
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Any suggestions for how to make Egyptian columns? Their shape is kinda challenging. ???
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Very nice.
I covered most of the white scratches with a black marker, but some were left, and the photo enhanced the effect... :S
Considered printing on a light grey paper?
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Yes, Sangennaru has an excellent column in the paper.
Really now Fram control yourself lol
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I'm well aware of your paper scenery, and they are really awesome! I didn't know about the magnets, i suppose that migth be a brilliant solution!
I covered most of the white scratches with a black marker, but some were left, and the photo enhanced the effect... :S
See if you can get hold of ZIG Art & Graphic Twin pens. they got lots of colours including dark grey, which is less hard than black.
their best feature is a brush like point on one end :
(http://www.artifolk.co.uk/images/products/16360x300.jpg)
Also, did you score your folding lines ? doing that improves the fold and can prevent the paper from breaking.
As for strength, I mostly print on 200g/m2. Some people finish their model with a coat of Klear to laminate it, but I only used fixative in a spraycan in the past. (I'm guessing Klear would make everything shiny)
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Any suggestions for how to make Egyptian columns? Their shape is kinda challenging. ???
Well, round shapes have strange UVs sometimes... but i'd say go for the same technique: 3d model, photoshop (or equivalent) for texturing, then Pepakura!
of course, round shapes with different diameters or conic are WAYS harder to do...
Yes, Sangennaru has an excellent column in the paper.
lol lol lol
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Thanks! I wish I could find some old chair legs. They could be converted into Egyptian columns.
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Cheers gents! I've done another small project, the first floor of a small concrete hut!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/hut3.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/hut4.jpg)
The roof will be a separated part, kinda modular.
Comments are welcome! ^_^
Jack
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Looks good.
With all the weathering to the walls, I would add some more around the windows and doorways, as they look a little too pristine in comparison.
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Looks good.
With all the weathering to the walls, I would add some more around the windows and doorways, as they look a little too pristine in comparison.
Good point, i'll see what i can do! =)
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Are you still hand drawing the textures? They're looking very nice and this is a noticeable improvement over the first effort (which was already good).
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Are you still hand drawing the textures? They're looking very nice and this is a noticeable improvement over the first effort (which was already good).
Thanks! Teh texture is hand drawn, but there's a background edited image as in the previous column. I do the shapes, the cracks and the lights and shadows to give the cartoonish look. :) For the insides i think it's ok to leave them kinda simple.
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I've assembled the first print. I've printed three, changing the colours to do some experiments. I'm happy of the result but i've learned a lot. First of all, the detail in the geometry is excessive for a 15mm. I'll do only exteriors for 15mm from now on, and the interiors will be only for 28mm stuff!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/PA145159.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/PA145160.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/PA145161.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/PA145162.jpg)
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I'm loving the stylised comic-book-like view of these - brilliant!
However there is one thing that looks wrong. On your pillars you have different seams between blocks that don't translate around the pillar. If on one face you have a concrete block thats say 2cm tall then the seam for that block should run all the way around the pillar, at the moment it is discontinuous and there is another seam on the next face in a completely different position.
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I'm loving the stylised comic-book-like view of these - brilliant!
However there is one thing that looks wrong. On your pillars you have different seams between blocks that don't translate around the pillar. If on one face you have a concrete block thats say 2cm tall then the seam for that block should run all the way around the pillar, at the moment it is discontinuous and there is another seam on the next face in a completely different position.
definitely a good point. The pillars were just tests, and more than one people commented about that. :)
I'm now undecided about the scale: Shall i go for 28mm buildings with interiors or for 15mm buildigns with only exteriors?
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Definitly a nice building.
I'd say you go for both.
Do the 28mm with interior. You can always shrink it (or at least the outer shell) to create a 15mm version.
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Definitly a nice building.
I'd say you go for both.
Do the 28mm with interior. You can always shrink it (or at least the outer shell) to create a 15mm version.
the problem for 15mm interiors is that it's a HUGE MESS to assemble. So i'd go for the exteriors only, and yes, probably i can go for 28mm first, as the market is several times larger.
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28mm version is now assembled, and shown next to the 15mm one!!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/PB205237.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/PB205238.jpg)
Some miniatures from random manifacturers for scale. The two 15mm robots on the left are sculpted by me and 3D printed! *_*
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/PB205240.jpg)
Comments and questions always welcome.
Cheers
Jack
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Oh sweet. You're ready to shelter from the bombs now!
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Oh sweet. You're ready to shelter from the bombs now!
and both 15mm and 28mm bombs!
anyways, anyone knows some paper-terrain communities around?
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So Far you have made the patterns available are you going to do the same for the buildings? ???
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So Far you have made the patterns available are you going to do the same for the buildings? ???
for this tests i will for sure, if people are willing to try those it's all precious information for me.
for the finished products, i might think to make them on sale somewhere, or to start a kickstarter (to get funds and buy pepakura pro and to invest my time in a more complete set) selling the pdf (maybe with different overlay options). :)
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anyways, anyone knows some paper-terrain communities around?
Paper Modelers.com (http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/) is a fairly big paper modelling site, although I don't see anything specifically for terrain.
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Paper Modelers.com (http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/) is a fairly big paper modelling site, although I don't see anything specifically for terrain.
Thanks!
However, considering the large amount of paper-terrain for wargaming around, i suspect there is something more specific where i can get technical advices before starting a larger structure or set! ^_^
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I'm in the "Papermodels II" Google Group.
Lots of experienced builders and some creators. Decent people anyway, so, pretty sure you'll get any question answered.
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I'm in the "Papermodels II" Google Group.
Lots of experienced builders and some creators. Decent people anyway, so, pretty sure you'll get any question answered.
good to know thanks!
meanwhile i'm working at my second building, since this was nothing but a test (and still i've to do the roofing too!)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/both.jpg)
I've also started texturing, but i'm on an early stage! I've been mostly studying the faster method, so i lost several hours searching around for solutions...
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/floor.jpg)
Cheers
Jack
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Short cuts make for long delays? lol
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Short cuts make for long delays? lol
definitely a good investment, especially if i'm planning to build a whole table with those. :)
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Meanwhile, the new building is done, printed and ready for assembling!
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/PB255286.jpg)
cheers
Jack
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Aaaand first floor done!!!
Foundry commandos for reference:
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/PB255287.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/PB255289.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/PB255291.jpg)
feelings so far? :)
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Looks just excellent! For 15mm, I would probably just go with sandwich-fold walls (no thickness), but at 28mm the thick concrete walls really add to the realism. I strongly suggest taking a look at the stairs that are included in most of WWG's TLX sets, they are built in a way that makes it possible to put figures onto every step while still maintaining the normal step dimensions, at least externally, because they extend inwards the staircase a bit. They can easily be modified with custo textures. Just a tip :)
Visible here, for example:
(http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/media/promos/Titan1/tit3.jpg)
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That's a very nice idea!
For 15mm i'll do the exteriors only buildings actually... more than enough imho. :)
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Hi everybody! After a bit of work on other projects (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=74716.0) i've finally fixed and assembled the upper floor. I still have to fix a few parts that need some black lining, but it's basically done. And, i've to say, it was quicker than the first floor. Some previous experience, i guess.
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/P2135629.jpg)
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/P2135630.jpg)
of course the floors are separated, and for now they don't join perfectly. I've yet to find the better solution for that.
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/P2135636.jpg)
It's always nice to look inside the building. :D
(http://www.thelazyforger.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/P2135638.jpg)
Comments and questions are welcome. :)
Cheers
Jack
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Those are really looking Good. I like the thickness of the walls and the weathered look. Nicely done!
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I'm not usually a fan on paper buildings, but this is very nicely done. 8) 8) 8)
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Looks excellent and fits the paper medium perfectly.
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Nice kit! :-* You've got the Borderlands vibe, spot on. (I really should fire up that game again some time...)
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Love that cartoony look, very effective! :-*
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This would look good for Zombicide terrain imho. I dig the cel-shaded look and I'd definitely be interested in a kickstarter for the pdf.
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Thanks everyone! I'll try todo a proper photoshooting once i've fixed all the white gaps around! :) Maybe with some (unpainted, alas) miniatures for reference!
...or maybe with some paper ones? I've got plenty of them!
This would look good for Zombicide terrain imho. I dig the cel-shaded look and I'd definitely be interested in a kickstarter for the pdf.
I'd love to do a kickstarter about that! Unfortunately i'm in Italy, which is a problem for kickstarters... and Indiegogo doesn't have the same audience at all! :S
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Very nice. Looks just like borderland stuff.
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I would be very interested in getting hold of this also, would be perfect for the decaying downtown feel I want for my Shadowrun/Spinespur table.
Happy to support either KS or direct sale. Please keep us informed about availability.
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I would be very interested in getting hold of this also, would be perfect for the decaying downtown feel I want for my Shadowrun/Spinespur table.
Happy to support either KS or direct sale. Please keep us informed about availability.
The idea of the kickstarter is in my mind since a while: the more i get, the more time i'll invest making new variants of the buildings, and everything is free for everyone. The good thing of the digital-only products is that it's completely scalable. So, every X euros i make, i can invest X time in making more stuff, in the interest of everyone!
What do you think is the best solution considering that i'm in Italy? :)
Cheers
Jack
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But why do you need a Kickstarter? If you can already make PDFs, surely you can sell your paper kits as PDFs?
I have never bought a hardcopy paper kit, always buy PDFs, because printing them is usually cheaper than having them sent halfway across the world. And I cab print them several times without having to scan them.
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But why do you need a Kickstarter? If you can already make PDFs, surely you can sell your paper kits as PDFs?
Actually, it's rather straightforward: If i just sell them, i'd start making a couple, and put them for sale. Since there are no more, people will hesitate to buy them because they don't blend with much else. IF i'll make enough money, i'll be motivated to do one more, but it's highly unlikely.
The kickstarter will allow me to say "If there's enough interest i'll make a whole set, otherwise i won't invest time making a few of them, hoping that people will be enough forward minded to buy them waiting for the next ones."
Basically, it's a protection both for me (i won't have to risk my time) and for the customers (they will be sure to have a whole city), and if i get more than expected i will be even able to add more stuff for everybody for free.
So, i'd say that KS is the perfect medium for this kind of projects. Actually, that's the ideal project, much more than the ultra-big projects from solid companies that could even afford the risks themselves (afterall, they are enterprises!)
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I'd certainly pledge 8)
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If your problem is time and not investment capital, then I understand.
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If your problem is time and not investment capital, then I understand.
well, my hobby time is limited. I could invest it in my personal projects, in sculpting or in this. I'm liking the effect i've achieved, but i don't have a real use for my own games... i did it just because. :)
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well, my hobby time is limited. I could invest it in my personal projects, in sculpting or in this. I'm liking the effect i've achieved, but i don't have a real use for my own games... i did it just because. :)
If you have no interest in these for your own gaming, a full on KS project (even a small one) is probably not realistic as that would commit you to producing enough buildings to make a decent range and it would cease to be anything "hobby" and become another day job, taking up what time you do have for hobby.
Although I would back a KS if you did one I think you are probably better spending a little time to create a few new skins for this building and sell it in pdf as a stand alone product. I can see this with bricked up windows, timber plank and corrugated tin covered windows, graffiti and handbills/posters.
Then add other buildings in the same decaying/grimy style as and when you feel inspired to do so.
If you do go down the KS route (rather than indigo-go) you will need to launch the project with a "partner" in a country that KS does allow so you can use their registered address and bank. Given you will want the funds available in €€ that means someone in Ireland or The Netherlands (anywhere else and you will be hit by currency xfer fees) and depending on how much you get there are money laundering and tax issues to consider.
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Any more news on the buildings?