Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Tutorials => Topic started by: tin shed gamer on November 15, 2014, 04:21:40 PM
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I've started with the Traction engine as the Howitzer requires pritty much the same methods.Again I'm using nothing more than cereal packet card and cocktailsticks.The boiler and funnel are little more than rolled tubes of card.In fact the whole traction engine is little more than cubes and tubes of card.Which will look far more complicated when finished than it actually is.
So I'll do this tutorial as more of a Q & A.Than a step by step,As I doubt anyone needs to be told how to construct a tube or a box/cube from card.
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Yet another of your great scratch-builds. I look forward to seeing this progress.
Tony
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Hot stuff! This is great.
First Q.
How do you make cylinders?
Cheers
Matt.
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Okay Matt lol,
For the boiler section I made a rectangle of card 11cm x 5cm.(The short side is at 90° to the natural curve of the card)
I've marked out where I intend to place the ribs.Before I make the tube.Then pre curve the card before you try to form a cylinder.
There are two quick starts to forming the cylinder.The first is the fastest simply use a round former (a marker pen would work well for the boiler)and wind the card around it gluing as you go.But insure the printed side is on the inside.
The second is to simply role the card into a tube then when you've judged the size of tube glue the outer edge down.then glue a peice of card over one circular end and trim it down.
The raised edge can be sanded down, or left as it stands and hidden on the underside of the boiler.
The funnel is made by percurving card,4cm tall to turn it into open ended 'cone' using the second method,then level out the top and bottom of the funnel.
Precurving and dry runs will make it easier to glue and keep in place.
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Ta! :D
So with the easiest method... you leave the pen inside because you've glued the card to the pen? Or is the card double layered, then slide the pen out when its dry?
Cheers
Matt
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No you take the pen out.Think of a roll of toilet paper. the card is rolled like the paper so you end up three or four layers of card making it alot stronger.The pen acts like the tube in a roll of toilet paper.You can use a wooden spoon or anything round.
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Ooh I'm definately following this thread :D
Not sure how easy I'll find rolling and glueing bits of card together (seriously, I'm not being sarcastic!) but I'll give it a go once your tale is told.
Please can you give us the rough dimensions of the bits you used? Cheers!
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No you take the pen out.
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so you end up three or four layers of card
I assumed you must, but your description threw me off sorry. Thanks for taking the time to confirm.
3 layers is a very smart idea. I hadn't thought of that.
Cheers
Matt.
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Sorry,tend to forget that other people don't view the world in the same way.So my discriptions can be off.
Would it help if I make another boiler and funnel from scratch,and post pictures at each step?I'll include measurements (these won't be true to scale as I tend to go by eye when making card models,and adjust to the limits of the material.But they will be close enough to 28mm to fit in with other models in your collection.)
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Sounds good to me!
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I shall watch and learn. Then use plastic bits and pieces and maybe some bits and pieces of metal, too. And make one or four of these in 15 mm. I've been wanting 15 mm traction for a long time now and you are showing the way forward. I must follow, master, I must follow... :o
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These are the basic parts to do a double layer of card.The 'cab'section is constructed within a 3.5cm x 3.5cm square.The width of the cab box is set by the diameter of the boiler tube.So it depends on how well you form the tube aim for 18-20mm.
The black line shows roughly where to apply glue its the only glue required If you precurve the card as in the picture then forming the tube is quick and can be done with super glue.But a dry run or two is a must.
The funnel is done the same way,as a straight tube or funneled in by cutting one end at an angle and rolling that into the centre so the angled edge acts as a former.This is a bit harder to do and doesn't need to be done to have a good model .Its more for show.
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Once you've got the basic shape built.Then detailing the main body starts using the ribbing found on the card.The spoked wheel is actually flat the use of rib card looks like spokes,but it is nothing more than a flat disk with triangular holes cut in.The card disk is double thickness as is the rim the trick with the rim is to do one layer at a time,Each strip is precurved before attatching.
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Coming along nicely.
Tony
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the art of paper modelling.....
fascinating how the introduction of plastic made us totally neglect a useful skill practised for centuries....
did You mention what glues You are using?
don't tell me it is protein colloid or starch ;)
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No I'm far to lazy lol.Sorry this topic is a sort of a roll over one from the Fokker Fvii tutorial.
So I haven't mentioned that sort of thing.
These models are aimed at using what you have,and not what you need to buy.
So Pva,Uhu,super glue.Its more about which your familiar with a feel safe with(also how long you wish to hold something while it dries).
Mark.
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the "how long You wish to hold it" vs "how often do You need to reglue it" is the balance aspect towards Your exposition is wanting of some good advice ;)
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Cheers for the tutorial mate - I'm going to have a bash at this sometime.
Ah, time... yes, that's the clincher - when am I going to get some free time!? o_o
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Yours is neater than mine mate! I've just started a traction engine this evening.
Mines covered in superglue :(
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Flipping heck thats bloody amazing
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Don't worry superglued card can be sanded like wood(just like wood it will only sand smooth of you sand with the grain).
As for strength and durablility Super glue soaks into more fibre layers in the card than Pva or Uhu.
I do use all three glues on one project depending on what effect is required.
The fishing boat/tramp Steamer model used Pva to form the double layered hull sides,Uhu was used to glue the hull and superstructure to gether.Deck guns and detailing used superglue.The Fokker was a speed model and was mainly super glue,with only the side pannels being bonded with Uhu.
I am only using super glue for the stream engine because it has to fit in with paid work so speed is key.I don't advocate the use of super glue as a rule because it behaves differently with card.Giving off more fumes staying wet for longer,and running and pooling in ways that are hard to predict.It's evil stuff that requires a higher skill level than beginner.Which was the skill level I feel is safest to aim tutorials at.
I'm not saying only I know how to use it,and I'm sure you'll have faith in your own knowledge and use of this evil stuff.I'm just not willing to say super glue is what you need.Because there will someone out there who has in spirit more thumbs than fingers.
Mark
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THX
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The wheels are tricky! >_<
Here's mine!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GMqy0oDYrD0/VG_h2T1Uv2I/AAAAAAAABRw/LTdROVjSWVc/s1600/IMAG0786.jpg)
Cheers
Matt.
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Nothing wrong with that at all,The super glue looks fine.It looks to have soaked into the card quite well.I doubt anyone will notice once you've got its base colours on.
The wheels are a little more of a time eater than you'd think.But are worth the effort.A solid disk wheel just doesn't look as good as a spoked.That said the second engine I'm building will have a solid disk.
I'll be covering the large rear wheels last,as they are need for the howitzer as well just so theres no to go back and find how to make them when your half way through the gun.
As for the front wheels you can make two types,The first is just the wheel you've already made only slightly smaller plus two layers of card on top of the rim only narrower than the rim to form a tyre.
The second is more complicated(looking when finished) requiring more parts.I'll post a how to at the same time I cover the front axle.
There a few types of front axle but I'm only going to cover one with a leaf spring on top of it.As it looks complicated on the finished model,but is very simple to construct.
I'll put a half length roof on the second engine,just to cover the whole thing.So to speak,before moving onto the gun.
I'm glad your making your own,without wishing to sound smug.other wise its just me telling the world I spent alot of my time making paper toys.
Mark.
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I'm doing the rear wheels now, so I'll probably be finished before your how to. I'm building mine around a toothpick axle.
Very nice mark, your doing a fine job. I like the superglue and card. The benifit is it glues less to your fingers as excess is absorbed. That said I'm using plenty of the stuff, the Windows are open and the living room stinks, and I'm finding I need to glue things twice. Once to absorb the glue and stiffen the surface, then a second time to contact join. 0_o
I was going to try a fallout motorbike, but agreed with your assessment of cubes and cylinders regarding the steam tractor! Haha. So here's my first try.
Cheers
Matt.
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Brilliant stuff, I've really enjoyed reading through this and looking forward to the rest 8) 8)
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other wise its just me telling the world I spent alot of my time making paper toys.
As much as I like kitbashing, converting and even scratchbuilding in plastic, I just humbly realized that this kind of thing is the real scratchbuild masterclass, bending the pulp to ones own will....
everything else we are showing off in the miniature world is just wargaming efficiency, like "quickpainting" and "dipping".
there should be some kind of masterclass childboard in the workbench where it is only "from scratch", but also an "efficiency" one, so that people can compare the tradeoff.
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I wouldn't call it a masterclass lol.Working card is just one trick in the old toolbox.I'm a freelance sculptor .I'm not claiming to reinvent the wheel.I've made my name behind the scenes.Being The guy you hire when you can't figure it out,or someone says it can't be made.( Goodgrief that makes me sound like a a smug Edward Woodward .but it is my bread and butter.)
I've done a fair few tutorials by Pm on the forum.But my goal is just to show not show off.These 'open' tutorials I'm doing now came about through a topic chat with a member and was a case of me putting my money where my mouth is.
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with masterclass I was simply referring to everyone here who is earning their money with actual sculpting or scratchbuilding of any kind, nothing sophisticated. "just" the pros to show their tricks from the toolbox. no more, no less.
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Mine thus far!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G2aBkvc9Y8s/VHFte_5I6wI/AAAAAAAABSA/KksvkLSr7vg/s1600/IMAG0787.jpg)
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I guess this isn't an intractable problem after all.
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A touch more...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ve2lDLl6QhU/VHGGe345eyI/AAAAAAAABSQ/GoCeFxoZiZY/s1600/IMAG0788.jpg)
Now to do those front springy bits....
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Here's a few more pictures.I haven't glued the rear wheels on as I've still some detailing to do.As your building faster than I can post lol
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Cripes would you look at THAT!
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Oh Mark, that's unfair. Shall we swap? lol
Yours looks good mate, nice and round, sharp corners, nice even little detailing... former user was right, you are a Master Builder.
Cheers
Matt.
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Superb.
Tony
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No it's just mirror's and clever lighting.
The trick is precurve your card and a dry run.When I have a bit that has refused to do as it's told,I soak a little glue onto the area and sand out the kink/bump,then apply a little smear of glue over the top to stop it fluffing up the surface.
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I find it difficult to believe you made that out of card- you have mad skilz!
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Well its a good job I posted pictures before I painted it then lol
Which brings me to the point, As I intended this to be a Q & A led tutorial.Do I need to go over wheel construction,or would you prefer to move onto the limber?
If you want I'll post pictures of the first engine finished and painted before the next section or leave it till the end.
Mark.
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Which brings me to the point, As I intended this to be a Q & A led tutorial.Do I need to go over wheel construction,or would you prefer to move onto the limber?
If you want I'll post pictures of the first engine finished and painted before the next section or leave it till the end.
I don't see anything wrong with doing both, if You wish to humble us with Your generosity :)
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I agree to be humbled by your mad skills in detail now. :D
So you try to glue picture side to picture side so it glues better?
How did you connect the spokes to wheel rim? I just jammed it on and squirted superglue everywhere. lol not very... Professional.
I've found the card to be thick when doing some tubes. I've tried to sand the outside overlap down but there is still the issue of having uneven thicknesses around the rim. One cannot calculate in a dry run exactly how long you need the card to be before rolling and gluing.
If you use Uhu glue, do you need to reinforce it with another glue? Won't it come apart?
Do you make nets with tabs to fold and glue to, or did you go individual planes of card? I did some nets for added strength but they arnt very neat in card stock at that scale... And left some gaps. Would any green stuff work as gap filler on cardboard?
Cheers
Matt.
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Okay Matt I'll come clean lol.
Picture side to picture side for three reason's The print has in effect bonded the upper fibre layers of the card.So it doesn't peel the glued parts away from the card without a good deal of effort.
The glue doesn't soak in so fast that you need a second application,nor does it take as long to dry( but its still a lot longer than the packet states)
The third is for me the most important,The colour print is applied in layers and is proud of the surface.You can't really see it but belive me its there.The last thing you want is to go to all the effort of building and painting a model.Only to have the light catch it and your reading corn flakes down the side of your model.
Uhu I tend to use for but joints,and gap filling on smaller models(I'll add a few pictures of model which Uhu was used on it will be quicker to show than to write)gluing layers together ,makes something between a ply,and Mdf.so it becomes a lot stronger that it looks.(depending on which glue,Pva gives a board that works well on curves,never use horizontal as it will warp.Uhu great for vertical boards and joints will warp but less than pva,The evil glue will give a stiffer board but fumes make it unsafe for large areas.again it will warp before it sets on large areas.)
You can use green stuff on card,Best results smear a little evil on and around thea area it will stiffen the board and tie down the fibres so the clay will hold.
From your picture it looks like you've applied too much as you curved the card round and then had to stop andd add more glue.So when you stop the glue is soaking into the card you want to curve and past where it attatches to the surface.so your attempting to bend a small amount of stiffend card which kinks when you glue down past it.
The trick is to hold the card in its curved state onto the surface well past the last glued point and allow it to dry.The stiffend area will keep the curve.When you add the next amount of glue don't butt it up to the last bit,it will flow and soak in both directions.The small gap stops you from spraining or kinking the stiffend card.Also make sure your making use of the natural bend of the card.This should help with the uneven curving issue.
I'll do a photo led guide to wheels which should shed some light as its a method that seems a little back to front.I'll run through neater tubes when I cover the howitzer barrel as thats where its needed most.
I hope that make's sence :D
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Thanks Mark,
're gluing printed sides.
I assumed it was for reason 3, but you make good points on all accounts.
're gluing curved card
I have been making sure I cut and prebend along the paper grain and this has helped a lot. It's certainly taken out much of the kinks. I did indeed have difficulty gluing the first bit to the right diameter then gluing the next section. On the last few I've dry rolled, held it firmly at the correct size, then oozed evil glue at a number of points across the layers. Let that dry then hit it with some more! I may have used 3 tubes of superglue so far! :(
're U-hu
I cannot believe you've used it as a gap filler. o_o I eagerly await photo evidence from your mad laboratory. :D
're Wheels.
You better come clean, I've got my eye on you Mark. >:D
lol
Cheers
Matt.
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I didn't mention Net's.I don't use nets for major construction.Card at this scale will always leave gaps when you fold up the sides.
I do use very simple nets when the limitations of card nets are a plus.
The 'U' shaped bracket for the front wheels being one. Its a simple 'T'shaped net.
drawn as six cubes.five for the cross bar of the 'T' and one for the leg.the three cuts almost completely through the card on the 'grey' side.one where the leg joins the bar of the T. then one square in at each end of the bar.Then fold and glue the squares back over onto the printed side.Then raise the ends to form a 'U' shape.which gives curved corners on the outside.
Most /all joints are taken to be flat pannels with simple butt joints.This will reduce gaps and the need to fill.So this is where you can use Uhu as a filler as it dries hard.Lightly wet your finger and smear a little glue in the gap.Don't be tempted to try and fill the gap in one go.Small amounts and a couple of runs is the way to go.(you will be peeling glue off your fingers for a while though lol)
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Here's a couple of simple projects that used only Pva,and or Uhu.
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The finished Traction Engine.
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The finished Traction Engine looks fantastic.
Very well done and thank you for all the work-in-progress shots and modelling tips.
Tony
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That looks fantastic!
My only complaint is that I'd never be able to make that! :D
Bravo sir, bravo!
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:-* :-* :-*
Legendary... Mark that is ace.
Cheers
Matt
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Well done - impressive work, and so quick.
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You should be appointed "The Pharaoh's own Papyrologist" ;)
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Great build so far. Reminds me of the Traction Engine in Jackboots in Whitehall.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTOxmTOMnAg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTOxmTOMnAg)
Cannot wait to see the gun!
Snitchy sends.
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I'm glad you like the idea so far.Jon your more than able to do a traction engine.I'll make a deal with you.Your a big Vbcw fan,so if you have a go I'll make the next project related to Vbcw.
15cwt Bedford,Morris,and the Ant.
or.
A branch line train (not just the engine)
Tempted?
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Well you have more faith in me than I do! ;D
Ok, when I get some free time I'll have a crack (though I might cheat and hide bits of it with corrugated iron/cardboard as improvised armour).
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If your thinking of the Boer War style engine.You should be able to knock up one in an afternoon as its little more than a 'L'shaped box with wheels and a tube stuck on it.You could make a full land train in a weekend.Post a picture of one and I'll do a list of shapes you'll require(not a model as I've no use for one)just as soon as I've posted how to do wheels.
Mark.
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This kind of thing?
(http://15mmvsf.bagofmice.com/vsf/vsfp/Insper/fowler_plan2.jpg)
Ok, it's a deal!
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What the heck.If your going to make one.I mights as well cover it as a traction engine project,as it sort of run's side by side.(If other people are interested would you prefer it as a bolt on to this topic when I've finished The gun,or as its own 'Tale'?) as it is such an easy build the funnel is the only tube to make the boiler only requires a curve of card as its hidden by the plate.
To do it by the Plan you'll need three different types of card wheel.I did intend on covering all three.But you could make it only using the two types of.wheel on the traction engine I've posted pictures of.That would reduce the time need to build it.Also making the wheels the same size on the wagon will save time,as your head and hands will get into a rythm rather than changing pace if you scratch building skills are a bit rusty.
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Cool :D
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I'd say add it to the end of this thread mate.
That WWI bus, please done say that is also cereal packet... But do spill if it is.
Cheers
Matt.
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Yes and no,The proof of concept was ,but that model is the second one out of the mould.(the first is glue to the wall in my workshop)Actually one of my card based concepts is still turning up on images,the Yeomanry Armoured car in a dazzle cammo is 95%card with toy car wheels as the mould wasn't ready for the advert.
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o_o well you are a clever sausage!
Cheers
Matt
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Finished my build.. its a bit off but I'm proud as punch.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H2XMe2ov2TI/VHkpK3hBa7I/AAAAAAAABT8/r8u8eAsRR2Q/s1600/IMAG0798.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_FZesaW_n-4/VHkpL-8PBaI/AAAAAAAABUE/J921wI5MWiY/s1600/IMAG0799.jpg)
:D Time for a slap of paint. Did you prime Mark?
Cheers
Matt
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Great work! Very impressed. Might even give it a go myself at some point...................
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Cracking job Sir,
As for under coating,a light coat wouldn't do any harm.What you'll find is a normal solid coat you'd apply to a metal or plastic figure.can lift the upper fibres and fur the surface in odd places,and unsealed edges.Its unpredictable its seems to be down to the age of the card,and how densely pressed the fibres.also how damp the card gets with spray paint.
An even coat requires several light coats, applied over a couple of days.Even then you'll find 9 out 10 will work,and then you'll come back to a fluffy model when it dries.
I normally paint straight onto the card and matt varnish if I'm out to make a model for someone else,If its for me I don't bother.
The only draw back with painting directly onto card is it takes longer to dry than you think,The surface will dry and the sub layer will be damp.You'll find over handling will cause little 'grey' mottled patches of ware,if you handle it to much before its totally dry.( Its only an issue if you rush your painting of base colours)These patches will take paint over them again without ware.A layer of varnish does pritty much what it does to a metal figure.
Its easy to keep on top of,By touching the 'dry' paint.If it feels slightly colder than the room temp but dry.Then it's not.Simple rule looks dry+feels cold=still wet.
It doesn't mean you have to take days to paint your model.Its simple wet paint wipes off lol.Its just sneaky paint when its applied to card .
I'll stop the frightening you off now and point out I painted and based mine in under two hour's.
On a lighter note now, you've made a traction engine.You'll look at those mdf dumpster's and barrier's and think I could have made them out of card lol
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Thanks Mark, that's ace help.
I glued that front wheel set way off centre unfortunately, it looked even from the angle I was trying to clamp it, but it sure wasn't. At an isometric view though it's fine ;)
You'll look at those mdf dumpster's and barrier's and think I could have made them out of card lol
Haha, true that. ;) but the mdf is sturdier for long lasting endurance.
Cheers
Matt.
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To CB,
Your Traction Engine looks great.
Tony
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Agreed - bravo sir!
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An absolutely splendid build and as its so comprehensive I'm going to move it to How To 8)
cheers
James
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ah another nomadic tale.Its a good job my workshop's on wheels lol
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Thanks Tony and Jp. All credit to Mark though and his patience. :D
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ah another nomadic tale.Its a good job my workshop's on wheels lol
Stop making great step by step tutorials then lol
No problem if you would like it moved back but I think it'll get more traffic here :)
cheers
James
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great incredible job also because it is made only of paper you are master in what!
incredible painting really nice I will have to do it too! too good !!!
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okay on with the wheels.
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parts list.
a strip 10.6cm x 1cm
a strip 10.4cm x 3mm(double thickness)
a hub of rolled card 5mm tall.
two circles of card 3.4cm dia,inner circle 3cm dia(double thickness)
Two spoke 'spider's' 3.5cm dia(single thickness)
Glue the two spiders to the hub to form a 'daisy'.
Then place the daisy over the top of a circle(the spokes will guide centring)
glue the spokes of the top spider (only) down onto the circle.If you press the hub down as you do this it will help .
Then turn the whole thing upside down so the glued circle is at the top(unspoked side of the circle facing up),then centre over the remaining circle and bend down the remaining unglued spokes and attatch to the circle.You should end up with a bobbin/cotton reel efffect.
Centre the 3mm strip over the 1cm strip ensure it overlaps at one end and leaves a space on the 1cm strip at the other end.
Then precurve with the 3mm strip on the inside.
Now attatch to the 'bobbin' the 3mm strip runs between the circle.You must start with the overlap end first .When you curve around the bobbin.Or you'll have wasted all your work if you intend on using the evil stuff.
Thats the basic shape of the rear wheel and gun wheel done.
You can make a less fiddlesome wheel by increasing the 3mm strip to 5mm.Then curving the strips around just the circles.
Increase the hub to 6mm attatch it to one spider then glue the spokes of the spider to the outside of the wheel circle and do the same with the otherside.
This second method is used for front wheels as well.These smaller wheels require only one central circle though.
Tread can be achived two ways the qickest is to add a pair of double thickness 3mm wide stips around the edge.The second tread is to cut a strip 10.5cm x 1cm.The mark out 5mm points the full length.on the left side start the marking 2-3mm,lower than on the right. then join the respective dots on both side.(1to1,2to2,etc).
The start at the top of the wheel and attatch down both side a the same rate finishing underneath,That way if your spacing is a bit off it will be hidden by a base or the table top.
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I'm going to skip a how to make a limber as its little more than a box on wheels with a triangle shape in front of a 'E'shaped (double thickness of card )frame.The photographs should help.
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Moving swiftly on.
A simple but but golden rule of scratch building field guns,cannon,etc.Reguardless of materials used is build the barrel first.
Its easy to build to the diameter of the finished barrel .But not to build a barrel into a set gap.(no matter how good you are,you will always waste time in the fit).
The barrel is 6cm in length.As for construction There are two methods that work well with card.
The first will fill the air with sounds that would make a nun blush,and is really for someone with a sound skill base as card is unforgiving when rolled tight.
You form a small tube with a full length but joint to make the inside of the barrel ,then repeat with multipul layers until your happy with the thickness of the tube.
The second is quicker and easier.Roll a peice of card into a tube glue the full length edge down .When dry sand back the ridge of the flap to smooth out the profile of the tube.
Then paint the inside of the tube.Glue card over the muzzle end,trim it to the barrel profile.
Then find the centre of the covered muzzle (circle of card) puncture a small hole,in the centre,enlarge the hole with a cocktail stick,then a ballpoint pen,untill your happy with the hole size/muzzle bore.
Its best to rotate the cocktail stick and pen,as if they were a drill bit .As you'll get a much smoother hole.
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I think it's easier to post a quick drawing of a basic side plate rather than try to run through it in words.This should be enough to construct a basic.gun shape as every thing else on the gun is down to personel taste.But I will.post pictures of the guns carriage as I build it.If people are unsure.Otherwise I'll wait until I've finished the whole gun.
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8)
Matthew asks for pictures as you go please Mark. Just post them all at the end to make it easier for yourself.
Cheers
Matt.
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Sorry Matt I've not replied sooner this month has gone off in directions I didn't expect.
I've been asked to fit in to my work load a couple of Viking longships for a display game at York.There to be made in card of all things.
Right back to the. field gun.
You'll need to make the sides of the gun carriage side plates four ply. So in total you'll need eight sides of card.The trick is to make a template similar to the line drawing.Then make only four copies by drawing around it ,and cut out the shapes.Then glue the four shape on to card and cut around the raised shape.You'll end up with four double thickness side pannels.Then glue two of these four pannels to gether to form a pannel four peices of card thick.Now join the remaining two double thickness pannels to gether to form the otherside of the carriage.
Why not just cut out eight pannels and layer them up to form a side?
The method I use my seem a bit odd.But cutting out the same shape eight times and having them all match is very difficult to achive.
How ever this method cuts down the number of preform parts to only two at every stage.even though you still actually cut out eight pannels.So the margin of error is reduced and the fit made easier as there is never more than one application of glue and only two parts.At each stage.(You've only got two hands to hold parts together so why make more than you can hold in one go.)
So with that old world logic done.I'll post some pictures of this Stage tomorrow.As my technology is rebelling once agian.
Mark.
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Sorry I may have had the odd glass of red with my last post lol.
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Stone the crows!
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:o I think that does the trick...
So that's where you've been hiding these last weeks! Very impresive! o_o o_o
Here's my humble, scrabby, uneven and poorly constructed engine :D
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m1BKKGJ6k4k/VKpSs0UN6xI/AAAAAAAABXc/Kgl96TWD6C4/s1600/CardTractionEngine.jpg)
Cheers
Matt
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I like the progress on the gun.
Tony
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Matt,I think your daft :D.I think it looks great and fits well with your figure.The colour choice and weathering look great(wish I'd used them.)The point is you've a painted traction engine,which cost next to nothing to do.Alright in your case an alarming amount of the evil glue lol.
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Haha too right Mark, even so a box of cereal I'd have eaten anyway, and $2.50 for glue! Not bad ;)
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Sorry Matt alittle unfair of me.With out looking through all my posts,I don't think I mentioned that I use the bottled evil glue,rather than the tubes as its easier to control the flow,and same volume of glue lasts a lot longer than it does in a tube.
But its not a bad return on your investment.
You'll be able to make a train using the same methods.Which shouldn't cost much more than the traction engine did.
Mark.
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The size of the nozzle and the small areas I was working on were the real issue Mark, lol perhaps a bottle could help, perhaps it would be just as messy. lol lol
Thanks Mark, through the entire build I was wondering how stryrene would go, I think my next build will be trying those techniques to scratchbuild some railcars in styrene. Thanks Mark! The finish may be smoother with styrene.
Then I can try a tri motor ;)
Cheers
Matt.
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Its not a material I use very often.I know jimbibbly is using it to build a castle(actually James make's me look like I've got A.D.D.the amount of time and effort he's putting into it.either that or he's locked in a tower somewhere with no mini bar or tv lol).
Card modelling is my low tech CAD system for when I need to problem solve.As its quick to do and if you can make it in card you can make it in plastic.
Right back to the point.I'll paint the thing up and post the pictures.But I'll be leaving the land train for a while as I've a couple of card long ships to make for the York show.
But I'll post a workbench topic on them as I build them as they'll need a few other bits and bob's to make them show worthy.
Mark.
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Looking forward to it Mark 8) its a joy to see what you come up with and it's certainly inspirational as well to cut items smaller and try more detail.
Cheers
Matt
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Here's a couple of pictures of the finished gun.I used the whole thing in a convoy game today.It'd fair to say I sculpt better than I roll dice.
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Very cool indeed. Sounds like you and I have the same luck with dice. lol
Snitchy sends.
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Wow!! To think that is all just cardboard and glue! o_o
Your engine looks great too Matt.
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This stuff is just so inspirational!!!
:o :-* :o :-* :o :-* :o
So happy that I found the thread! 8)
Darrell.
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That is amazing. Both tractors look phenomenal. I was struggling to locate one of these (let alone pay for it) for pulp/SA and all I needed was a box of cereal (and lots of glue and skill :) ). I have the cereal and if I don't screw it up completely I'll follow up with what I managed. Finding this was a awesome just for the wheels alone. I think I could cobble together a nice looking flat cart or coach with those as well.
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Glad you like the idea.Ive made planes ,fire engines ,cars,ships,and buildings just using these materials ,so it's a pretty easy method to use,(I just work on the philosophy that if it goes wrong so what,this stuff was only heading for the recycling bin anyway ;D)
I'd love to see what you come up with,and if you get stuck then feel free to pick my brains (such as they are)with a PM.
Mark.