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I'm (slowly) teaching myself how to use Blender by building a 1:100 scale Vickers Medium Mk.III
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yAfdgLmcd3A/Vq8DfY8pOAI/AAAAAAAAFqE/d-Kp79lu5Bc/s1600/Medium_Mk_III_command_tank_IWM_MH_8102.jpg)
I'm keeping a WiP post going on my blog, for those who care to read about my pain (http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2016/02/digital-modelling.html).
In truth, the modelling side of it has been fairly straightforward, and with the help of the internet I'm gradually coming to grips with Blender's rather byzantine UI.
I'm building it in pieces in separate files, with the idea of eventually importing them all and assembling the components for 3d printing.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AE68MJjGKTM/VrAjP8toZiI/AAAAAAAAFrI/6bEF1hKCzN4/s1600/VickersMediumMkIII_assembled1.jpg)
The running gear is proving to be a sticking-point though — building it was OK, but now whenever I try to import it into the "everything all assembled" file, I get a vastly long and verbose error message which I don't know enough to be able to interpret. In other words, I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iCP8aJhyqyw/VrMOfLV1rtI/AAAAAAAAFs8/eNSwxkytdpc/s1600/sideskirts4.jpg)
Anyway, though it's proving to be an entertaining project, I'm beginning to think I may have been a bit ambitious for my very first 3d printing project, and I might shelve it in favour of something a bit simpler until I learn enough to know how to fix my mistakes.
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As a none modeller I find this very interesting, thanks! :)
As a suggestion, if the Medium is a challenge, how about a Vickers Light Tank Mk. II? It shares a lot of the features, but is somewhat simpler in the design.
Plus nobody makes one. :D
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I'm afraid all I can give you is moral support here, as I'm utterly useless when it comes to any kind of computer aided design.
Keep us posted on how you make out with this. I'd love to see more interwar 15mm stuff.
Really like the blog too by the way.
Hope you work it out!
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...and if you made a Vickers Mk II light then presumably you could resize it as a 1/56 scale model. Then you would be the only maker of such a model and no doubt you'd have a few people who would like to buy one or more off you to help compensate your hard toil ;-)
...an interesting post so do persist...please consider the Vickers Mk II ;) ;)
Cheers
Happy W
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yppxgLQP4rc/VrgNUSAHkfI/AAAAAAAAFvM/3MIU6oKwOpM/s1600/VickersMediumMkIII_assembledl.jpg)
I finally figured out (with the aid of the internet) how to fix the issue that was preventing me from importing the running-gear file, so I could put together this mock-up assembly of all the components.
For 3d printing purposes, the colour is really irrelevant. I thought I'd give it some though, because why not? In the process, I discovered that the turret and sub-turret files really need a bit of refinement. They were my first attempts in Blender, and it does rather show.
Now it's on to 3d printing the thing. I don't have local access to a printer, unfortunately. Even a relatively low-resolution printer would be useful for testing purposes, since the alternative would be to get Shapeways or one of those companies to do it, which would likely end up costing me an arm and a leg before I get a successful product.
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I was looking at some pics of the Vickers Light Mk.II, and it looks to me like it would be a pretty straightforward digital modelling task. The tricky part about it would be making some decent scale drawings to work from; since I can't just stroll along to Bovington and measure up their example, there would inevitably be a certain amount of approximation and guesswork involved.
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After a hell of a lot of wrestling and redesigning, I finally managed to get some printable files up on Shapeways. It's at https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mojobobdesign (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mojobobdesign), in both 1:100 and 1:300 scales, along with some bits for converting Battlefront's WWII Rolls Royce armoured car into a WWI version.
I've got a 1:300 Frosted Ultra-Detail Vickers on its way to me, but I haven't yet tried actually printing any of the others, mainly due to lack of money.
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What about a 1:56 version? :D
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What about a 1:56 version? :D
There's already one available (from Copplestone, I think), and I'm concentrating only on stuff that isn't available elsewhere.
Besides, I'm pretty sure that a 3d-printed version, even in their cheapest WSF (White Strong & Flexible) material would end up more expensive than a cast resin model :)
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(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4368236_14293810_1455409640.jpg)
Just uploaded, a 1925 Birch Gun in 1:285 scale (http://shpws.me/LEBv).
The limitations of the printing process means that things like the gun shield, track guards and track cleats are hugely over-thick in scale, but most of the model could just be resized upwards to form the core of a 15mm model, which will be able to display a lot more detail around the gun and so forth.
On the plus side, this is the first model I've submitted to Shapeways that passed all their automated pre-acceptance tests first time, so I'm clearly getting a handle on how to design for the materials. :)
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(https://images3.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4372118_14309154_1455503650.jpg)
Here's a 15mm (1:100) version (http://shpws.me/LFaW). I had to fudge the gun controls a tad; I couldn't find any good pictures of them, and some of the spindlier protrusions would be very vulnerable to tabletop damage.
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Great work Fitz. Really impressive...hope you make it to that Vickers Mk II Light tank ;) ;) :D
Cheers
Happy W
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It's definitely in the pipeline, and if I can get some concrete measurements for it I think I have enough photographs from various angles to be able to build a reasonable representation of it.
For the moment though, what I'm working on is this:
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yQFy4XJOe-U/VsRY927QofI/AAAAAAAAFxA/096cZfOZhzk/s1600/VickersMediumMkC_04.jpg)
Since I'd already gone to all the effort of building the running gear for the Birch Gun, I thought I might as well make my next model the Vickers Medium Mk.C, from about 1925, which uses basically the same chassis.
I don't have scale drawings for this one either, so I'm working by best guess from some very old, grainy photographs. This particular one is designed at 1:100 scale for 15mm; I'll probably do a redesigned version* for 1:285 (6mm).
I don't believe it saw service with the British army, but Vickers supplied some to the Irish, and to the Japanese who modified it and turned it into the Type 89 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Type_89_I-Go).
Edit:
* I did do a 1:285 version. It's available as singles (http://shpws.me/LI2s), or as a 5-up sprue (http://shpws.me/LI2L).
(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4392111_14397836_1455918234.jpg)
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I'm suitably in awe and impressed by the design process. When 3D Print began a mere few years ago I thought then how it could potentially revolutionise the hobby... the final hurdle seems to be price.
:)
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I'm more excited than is truly proper for a Gentleman of a Certain Age, as the very first actual physical 3d-printed results of my labours has just arrived.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0_SAcI7zUQ/VsYp7wLPxyI/AAAAAAAAFxc/VmLuWiOmGGQ/s1600/2016-02-19_3dPrintedVickers1-300_1.jpg)
The raw resin
It's the two-piece 1:300 scale Vickers Medium Mk.III (http://shpws.me/LD3s), in Shapeways' Frosted Ultra Detail resin.
I'm pretty impressed, I have to say. And it shows me a lot about what I need to be adjusting and exaggerate when designing in this very small scale, and what can just be left to be suggested.
The rivets, for example: they're visible (in places), but they don't get across the rivetiness of the tank. There could be fewer of them, but larger. There is visible striation on vertical surfaces, though it isn't visible from arm's length, and I doubt that it would be visible at all on a pewter casting.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-atTtWItmbPg/VsYp7zxlkfI/AAAAAAAAFxY/l9Eb1rLwWcA/s1600/2016-02-19_3dPrintedVickers1-300_2.jpg)
The model, primed for visibility
I'll be interested to see how the Frosted Extreme Detail resin fares. It's more expensive, but in terms of the overall labour and expense involved in creating a master for moulding and casting, the difference isn't that great, and hopefully it will deal better with vertical surfaces.
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M2RzeVjnbvA/Vskvf8abSPI/AAAAAAAAFyg/frGP2qwp6cI/s1600/VickersMkII.jpg)
I'm waiting on a book full of scale drawings of interwar military vehicles to arrive from bookdepository.com, and I thought while I wait, I'd whip up a quick Vickers Medium Mk.II. It would be simple and easy, I thought.
I was not entirely correct.
However, it's more or less done now; there are just a few more bits and bobs to add and then it'll be another one off to Shapeways.
It would be nice if I could actually afford to buy the stuff I'm designing. That would be really nice.
NOTE: It's now available in 15mm (1:100) scale for a measly twenty yankee dollars on Shapeways (http://shpws.me/LIFq).
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If you need pics from Bovington they have events there, maybe you could find someone who's going to get you some pics?
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If you need pics from Bovington they have events there, maybe you could find someone who's going to get you some pics?
I see from their website that they're in the process of making their archives of photos and drawings available online, which will be a huge help.
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33836019/CardenLloydRunningGear.jpg)
Would you like to guess what this is for?
That controlled-scissors suspension turned out to be a bit of a nightmare to model because of the cast wheel-hoods. I'm sure there must be a better, more efficient way to do it.
Also, I'm not that happy with the tracks: they don't look fine enough. However, within the limitations of the 3d-printing process I'm not sure how much I can do about that.
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...the side of this!!
:D :D :D
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6d/IWM-KID-226-Light-tank-MkII.jpg)
:P :P
..28mm I hope
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Can I humbly suggest that the better one to do would be the Vickers Mk III model...not the Mk II. I just looked back and saw I was banging on about the Mk II...I meant Mk III.
The Mk II was a 1934+ vehicles and was deployed to Egypt/Palestine in 1936 and saw service in india and into WWII as well so it might have wider appeal and usability.
Your typical nice overview is here.
http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2/gb/Light_tank_MkI-II-III.php
This is a shot of a 6RTC Mk III vehicle in Egypt in 1936.
(http://www.oocities.org/gpmatthews/6rtc/light3_1.jpg)
Before you commit..I think the Mk III is better vehicle to model.... ;) ;)
Great to see your skills at work here..
Happier Wanderer
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In fact, it's the running gear for the Carden Loyd Light Tank Mk.VIII, the progenitor of Vickers' line of light tanks after they acquired the firm. I decided to start with that because (a) I already have drawings for it, and (b) because it shares many components (from a modeling perspective) with the later tanks, so I can reuse elements I've already constructed.
The Vickers Light Mk.II uses pretty much the whole hull and running gear, with a new superstructure. The Mk.III needs the improved Horstman suspension, and some additional changes to the Mk.II's superstructure.
I figure if I build them in chronological order, it should simplify matters considerably.
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"I figure if I build them in chronological order, it should simplify matters considerably."
Well, if you're talking about building them in chronological order then you'll have the defining British interwar line of vehicles...no one else will touch you...
...go for it!...great work. ;D
HW
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(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4404254_14450766_1456217012.jpg)
Well. it's finished and up on Shapeways, but for some reason their render hasn't reproduced all the rivet detail. I shall have to do a bit of tweaking, I guess, though since I have no idea why, I'll be flailing about in the dark a bit.
Edit:
I bumped up the size of the rivets, which did the trick — I originally sized them by eye, and failed to take into account just how tiny these vehicles were. In close-up, rivets you can actually see make it look like it's covered in tennis balls :)
(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4404254_14452123_1456223406.jpg)
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"Well. it's finished and up on Shapeways"
Got a link?
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http://shpws.me/LJQE (http://shpws.me/LJQE)
This is only in 15mm scale at the moment. I can re-size it easily enough for 28mm if you want — that would be 1:56 scale?
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Not my genre but impressive nonetheless :)
When 3D Print began a mere few years ago
It's been around since the early eighties but obviously not in the commercial form we see it in now.
cheers
James
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This is only in 15mm scale at the moment. I can re-size it easily enough for 28mm if you want — that would be 1:56 scale?
I would imagine that there would be a few takers in 20mm, although whether that is 1/72 or 1/76 nowadays I couldn't say... anyone?
It does however look excellent... but wasn't it the Mark I which had the round turret? The only difference as far as I know (which is not much) between the II and III was the running gear, the extended rectangular turret seems common to both.
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That is a lovely model and I suspect the VBCW crowd will find a use for this fella so 1/56 would be ideal.
How much for 1/56 for something like this? Looking forward to seeing your Vickers MKIII light tank.
It looks like you are getting the hang of all this...keep up the good work.
Cheers
Happy W
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That is a lovely model and I suspect the VBCW crowd will find a use for this fella so 1/56 would be ideal.
How much for 1/56 for something like this? Looking forward to seeing your Vickers MKIII light tank.
1/56 version is available now at http://shpws.me/LKgZ (http://shpws.me/LKgZ). It starts at about $19 in WSF plastic, and goes up to about a gajillion bucks for the super-duper-ultra-detail resin.
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"It starts at about $19 in WSF plastic, and goes up to about a gajillion bucks for the super-duper-ultra-detail resin."
That's smart salemanship! That is a very reasonable price and the 3D print material certainly looks suitable enough. One thing about the interwar vehicles is that a slightly rougher look to them kind of adds to their period charm and for me a perfectly machined and 'smoothed' surface isn't necessarily required to achieve the proper look...within reason.
If you can get the Vickers Light Mk III in that price range I'll be taking a few of your hands required by the TAC list for the British 8th Hussars in CoC.
https://abyssiniancrisis.wordpress.com/2015/12/20/chain-of-commandabyssinia-hussars/
Happy W
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At long last the first examples of Shapeways' "White Strong & Flexible" 3d printing has arrived. It's the cheapest medium available from them, and the only one that would be affordable for 15mm vehicles for the penurious likes of me.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1xY7Ursfkqw/Vs9pkqEXSJI/AAAAAAAAF0A/kxTe5d8qJZA/s1600/3dPrintShapewaysWSF-001_washed.jpg)
My opinion: it could be worse. It does show quite a decent degree of detail, but the surface is very granular, more so than I was expecting, and it shows nowhere near as much detail as their own material renders would suggest.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yx5rx7KFiaU/Vs9q59tRNlI/AAAAAAAAF0E/tcSnhg6OAW8/s1600/3dPrintShapewaysWSF-render.jpg)
Shapeways' own material render (enhanced for contrast)
The surface can be polished, using steel burnishing tools, to mitigate this granularity somewhat. It doesn't get rid of it entirely though. Shapeways can do this themselves, but they do it by tumbling the item with little plastic balls, which (of course) pummel out not only the surface granularity, but also any small raised details, so it's no good for my purposes.
The final proof of the pudding will be in the painting, of course. I'll be interested to see how that turns out.
I suspect that the material would be fine for wargaming pieces, but it's certainly not fine enough for general scale modeling purposes.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-82dNiRzFnmU/Vs9sD99FmPI/AAAAAAAAF0M/fGGagwGNeVM/s1600/3dPrintShapewaysWSF-002.jpg)
New turret and wheels for Battlefront's 15mm Rolls Royce armoured car
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That looks pretty good to me. With a suitable undercoat then one or two layer on top and a dry brush that should come up OK. If it has a camo scheme this will further make the texture less of an issue.
As soon as you get a 1/56 Vickers Light Mk III tank on Shapeways I'll order one, paint it up and review on The Abyssinian Crisis blog. ;)
https://abyssiniancrisis.wordpress.com
Cheers
Happy W
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(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D_wS49VeyFw/Vs_t1UIH69I/AAAAAAAAF2E/CtxhSkyKKgk/s1600/2016-02-26_vickers3_15mm-001.jpg)
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5l3cGwN9U8U/Vs_t1XdODaI/AAAAAAAAF2I/Tv-uwtdRcOQ/s1600/2016-02-26_vickers3_15mm-002.jpg)
I've painted my 3d-printed Vickers Medium Mk.III, and here it is with some 15mm WW1 Brits from Peter Pig.
The WSF material from Shapeways takes a bit of preparation before it's ready for painting.
The printing process is one of laser sintering in a bed of powdered resin, and when the model is cleaned up the excess powder is blown away with compressed air. That leaves quite a bit of powder still hiding in the various crevices and around detail elements, and that needs to be cleared away or else the paint will solidify it. The ideal tool for this would be a dentist's ultrasonic water pick, but since I don't have one of those, I use various steel modeling probes.
Also, the printed surface is very granular, with a texture like fine sponge. That gives a fine tooth for paint, but it's not ideal for small-scale modeling purposes. It can be smoothed down to a certain extent by burnishing, but it can't feasibly be eliminated entirely.
Hopefully, the cost of higher-resolution printing will come down within the foreseeable future. This plastic is OK, but it's not the best option, and I only entertain it because it's the only material Shapeways offer that I can afford in this scale..
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My next project, while I'm waiting for my Big Boy's Big Book of Big Plans to arrive from bookdepository.com, is a Lancia armoured truck of about 1921.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E5H_42YE-Fw/VtTiHNL4BtI/AAAAAAAAF2c/6ZlcrOtrF6s/s1600/lancia1921.jpg)
It's all pretty straightforward, except in one respect: I have only the haziest notion of what goes on underneath a truck.
The drawings I'm working from show front, rear, and side elevations, with no details at all of the chassis, suspension or steering linkages. I have a photograph of a restored vehicle that gives me a glimpse of the front suspension, but that's it.
I guess the thing to do is to fake it.
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(https://images3.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4434695_14571630_1456831283.jpg)
After trawling through a bunch of photos of vintage trucks in various stages of dilapidation, I cobbled together what I think is a reasonable representation of a chassis for this truck — good enough for wargaming purposes, anyway. The model's up on Shapeways now, at http://shpws.me/LO5f (http://shpws.me/LO5f). Just 15mm at the moment; I'll do a 28mm re-scale, but bumping it up in size also massively inflates the price.
The vehicle I modeled it on also had an A-frame anti-grenade/rock/bottle mesh covering the open back. It would be a simple matter to add the frame, but again, it would increase the price quite substantially as it bumps up the machine space required to print the thing, even though the actual increase in material required would be trivial.
Edit: The 28mm version is up now, at http://shpws.me/LOlX (http://shpws.me/LOlX), starting from about $22.
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I am still looking for a Vickers Mk III ? or Mk II model for my Greek army, ;)
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=b99c5fadfb7ff56071186a42f8ca805d&topic=80001.0
otherwise I will have to convert Company B model :-[
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Unfortunately my great hope, George Bradford's otherwise excellent book 1914-1938 Armored Fighting Vehicles, turns out not to have any drawings of the Vickers Light Mark II or III. So, I shall have to do what I can from photographs.
I don't have any shots from the rear or above; if anyone has any they could share I'd be grateful.
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Unfortunately my great hope, George Bradford's otherwise excellent book 1914-1938 Armored Fighting Vehicles, turns out not to have any drawings of the Vickers Light Mark II or III. So, I shall have to do what I can from photographs.
I don't have any shots from the rear or above; if anyone has any they could share I'd be grateful.
I'm sorry to hear that.
There is another Bradford book
British Armored Fighting Vehicles (World War II AFV Plans)
which I know has some light tank plans, though I don't know which Mark(s)
The recent Osprey British Light Tanks 1927-45 has lots of photos and drawings (not plans) including the Mk 11 and Mk III.
David Fletcher's Mechanised Force has a single side plan for the Mk 11B India pattern (p75) and a set of plans for the Mk IV A India pattern on p 77. It also has a single side (exploded internal) view of the Mk II (p52), a set of maker's drawings of the Mk V (p56) and there may be more in his Great Tank Scandal, but I can't lay my hands on my copy just now.
I only realised recently the Medium Mark II was originally designated as Light Mark II by Vickers, which caused me some confusion with photo identification before the penny dropped.
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Hey Fitz,
The Osprey book doesn't have alot of useful stuff in it really....the internet has better pics.
Here's s side shot of MK III light tank with scale...so that's useful.
(http://www.wardrawings.be/WW2/Images/1-Vehicles(bis)/UK/01-LightTanks/Mk.III/p1.jpg)
Here's the page that it is in. Check out the dimensions and File data.
http://www.wardrawings.be/WW2/Files/1-Vehicles/Allies/3-UK/01-LightTanks/Vickers-Mk1-6/Vickers-Mk3.htm
Nice pic here
(http://worldwar2database.com/sites/default/files/wwii0108.jpg)
Then there is still this useful link though I was hoping for plans...good info though
http://ciar.org/ttk/mbt/afv_weapons_profile_pack/afv_weapons_profile_05__light_tanks_i-v.pdf
Here's a link to a Mk II model by Milicast. It has some nice detail on it.
http://www.milicast.com/shop/product.php?productid=1878&cat=0&page=2
Though not of the Mk III light its still a good link for you...
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=nT3zle-U3jgC&pg=PA3&lpg=PA3&dq=vickers+MK+III+light+tank+model&source=bl&ots=BjaZrAwCjG&sig=CmCLFf0RGVDDEVSMTgp9PHWqkfc&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiJ4Oyth6HLAhWFJZQKHWocCeUQ6AEIVjAM#v=onepage&q=vickers%20MK%20III%20light%20tank%20model&f=false
That's about all I can dig up...no plans for the Mk III...look like you'll be ht sonly one with them once you crack it!
HW
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Hi there is a model out in 20mm scale
http://www.ebay.es/itm/Mk-IIIB-Dutchman-Light-Tank-Wespe-Models-1-72-/231822142303
you could up scale this to 28mm ?
other info
https://uk.images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A2KLktmRltZWokoAE91NBQx.;_ylu=X3oDMTBsZ29xY3ZzBHNlYwNzZWFyY2gEc2xrA2J1dHRvbg--;_ylc=X1MDMjExNDcxNzAwNQRfcgMyBGJjawMyNGZwcWc5YmQydmZhJTI2YiUzRDQlMjZkJTNEeVNVOE1BOXBZRUtmVDdDemVnQU5NZmNvLkJiU2FzTzNmTTg4JTI2cyUzRGN1JTI2aSUzRFhLb0dybF9lVDZfSW1IN3MzQ2xGBGZyA3lmcC10LTIwNARncHJpZAMzbmtZVGx5UVNsT1VPTWtObU82R0VBBG10ZXN0aWQDbnVsbARuX3N1Z2cDMTAEb3JpZ2luA3VrLmltYWdlcy5zZWFyY2gueWFob28uY29tBHBvcwMwBHBxc3RyAwRwcXN0cmwDBHFzdHJsAzE4BHF1ZXJ5A2R1dGNobWVuIHRhbmsgMTkzNgR0X3N0bXADMTQ1NjkwNDExNQR2dGVzdGlkA251bGw-?gprid=3nkYTlyQSlOUOMkNmO6GEA&pvid=xubodzcyLjMiPzqCVtF96gV_ODYuMQAAAADbA4v1&p=dutchmen+tank+1936&fr=yfp-t-204&fr2=sb-top-uk.images.search.yahoo.com&ei=UTF-8&n=60&x=wrt
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I understood that the 'Dutchman' tanks sent to Greece were C-L commercial models, which had been in British service as "Tank Light, Vickers Carden Loyd, Model 1936", surely if they were MK. IIIBs, they would have been called that? Certainly the turret is similar to one used on the MK. II.
While I'm quite enthusiastic about the idea of a MK. III, I do wonder how much Shapeways would charge for a 1/56th scale version? Unit price for a Light Tank MK. VIC in 1940 was around £6K, do you think Shapeways can beat that price?
;)
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While I'm quite enthusiastic about the idea of a MK. III, I do wonder how much Shapeways would charge for a 1/56th scale version? Unit price for a Light Tank MK. VIC in 1940 was around £6K, do you think Shapeways can beat that price?
Based on what they charged for the 28mm Carden-Loyd Mk.VIII, which is much the same size, a 28mm Vickers Light Mk.II or III should be around $18 - $20-ish in WSF.
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I've ordered the second Bradford plans book. When it arrives I'll let you know if there is anything useful in it.
Let me know if you will think of doing anything in 20mm. There's a crying need for a Russian T-27 tankette
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I am still looking for a Vickers light tank 1936 (Dutchman) model for my Greek army, as show in the picture.
The Greek army had 10. and 70 Bren carriers and loads of motorbikes.
see picture in link.
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=b99c5fadfb7ff56071186a42f8ca805d&topic=80001.0
I had got one of these which I was going to convert
http://thewcp.co.uk/product.php?ItemID=2878
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I completed the first of my Vickers Lights — a Mk.II to begin with.
(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4443178_14605621_1456977829.jpg)
This one is 15mm (1:100) scale, and can be had at http://shpws.me/LP94 (http://shpws.me/LP94).
The 28mm version is imminent.
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Very nice. Well down. You're getting good at this!
If I'd say one thing (making constructive crit) the rivets seem a bit 'oversized' if that makes sense. Lovely job you have done but the riveting knocked down a bit would make it right on the money ;)
See small rivets on this pic...
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6d/IWM-KID-226-Light-tank-MkII.jpg)
I must say this has been one of the 'threads of the year' for mine...really useful in seeing your work develop...well done that man..give him a LAF award I say!! :D :D
As soon as you get it finished and in the shopping cart how you want I'll post a link on The Abyssinian Crisis blog...
https://abyssiniancrisis.wordpress.com
Cheers
Happy W
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The rivets are deliberately oversized because otherwise they're pretty much invisible on the physical model. Bear in mind that this thing is only about 36mm long in 15mm scale, about 60mm in 28mm.
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Exactly. They need to be overside to be visible at the smaller scale.
It's a legitimate concern (along with some other minor overscaled parts) for a larger-scale (28mm) version, however.
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Exactly. They need to be overside to be visible at the smaller scale. It's a legitimate concern (along with some other minor overscaled parts) for a larger-scale (28mm) version, however.
That's why re-sizing a model to a new scale isn't just a matter of hitting a "make bigger" button.
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The 28mm version of the Mk.II is now available at http://shpws.me/LPfp (http://shpws.me/LPfp), starting at about $19.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z-MixmMv_PI/Vtf1yJxP9FI/AAAAAAAAF3g/gOWvI8EO0lU/s1600/VickersLightMkIIa_28mm.jpg)
Those rivets are exactly the same size as the ones on the 15mm version :)
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That's why re-sizing a model to a new scale isn't just a matter of hitting a "make bigger" button.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gnyC_TGNC_M/Vtf3p0Z8FsI/AAAAAAAAWv0/Z9OT8BGvCEs/s507-Ic42/Coffee_replicates_then_mug.jpg)
You mean you don't just tell it what you want? ;)
That does look excellent by the way. Can I suggest a separate turret hatch and a recess on the turret itself, so folk can add a commander if they wish?
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Bravo! Damn quick modeling too :o :o
LB
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That does look excellent by the way. Can I suggest a separate turret hatch and a recess on the turret itself, so folk can add a commander if they wish?
Thanks. That's a good idea - I'll have to see what I can do about it. The body is hollow, so a hatch could go on a spruce in there without bumping up the part count or increasing the machine space required for printing.
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Great work Fitz.
The idea for the commander hatch is a good one. The vehicle looks really good.
I was aiming at the Mk III. Will that be next of your production line? The Mk III had the inclined double spring Horstmann suspension which is different. In fact some of the Mk IIAs used the Hosrtmann suspension as well. If you were able to offer on the shopping cart the Mk III body and MK II turret you'd be able to create a variant MK II from the same models. Maybe not perfect but a useful option.
Really impressive stuff thus far.
As an option, a new turret on this would make for an Indian Pattern Mk II. Given that these were used in actual conflict in india that's probably a good option to have or just make a separate model or the option on the shopping cart for the different turret calling this option the Indian pattern version.
Excllent stuff and you have now filled a void in the MK II department! ;) ;)
Happy W
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The Mk.III is next on the agenda, and the revised running gear I'll have to make for that will also allow me to do the Mk.IIb, which is the India Pattern was based on. So, it's all in the pipeline :)
I still haven't managed to find any images of the Mk.III from behind. Nobody seemed to want to photograph them going away.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MP84YvWXeJY/Vtj9s-bfeBI/AAAAAAAAWxo/CiK1oVSc8-E/s500-Ic42/03231.jpg)
(http://www.ww2incolor.com/d/727143-2/SAF-East-Africa-31_002)
How's that?
The second one is actually from East Africa in WWII (1st South African Light Tank Company).
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That's excellent, thanks. Very useful.
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Something dodgy with that second pic :o :o
..Indian Pattern sounds very useful.... ;D
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No it is quite legit... 1st SA Light tanks did indeed use the MK. III. They had 12, which were carried on Ford 10 ton trucks. I'm guessing they are the ones given up by the Brits in Egypt when they changed to MK. VIs.
6th (Australian) Divisional Cavalry had six MK. IIBs (to which 7 DC's MK.VIBs were added to give two light tank troops per squadron), along with Bren carriers (4 troops per squadron) which they supplemented with captured Italian M11 tanks in Libya and later added four Ex-French R35 tanks in Palestine, before 6 DC was shipped back home in March '42.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QN3fBtKyya0/VtllUUyo97I/AAAAAAAAWx0/0GZVNT_S1w4/s460-Ic42/ArmourintheMiddleEast_460x306px.jpg)
I have no idea what the thing with a gun is that is mostly out of shot... it looks quite a big bore.
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:) :)
"Something dodgy with that second pic"
This was lost in translation! What I was referring to was that the pic wasn't showing up on the page i.e. the link to the pic was dodgy...not the info!
However, the extra info is much appreciated...we Aussies sure did make use of every tin can that worked! :D :D
HW
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Ordered.
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As an intermediate step on the way to the Mk.III, here's the Mk.IIb — basically the same as the Mk.IIa but with slightly refined running gear.
http://shpws.me/LQ9D (http://shpws.me/LQ9D) (15mm, 1:100)
http://shpws.me/LQ9G (http://shpws.me/LQ9G) (28mm, 1:56)
(https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4450802_14631158_1457135089.jpg)
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This is the latest batch of my models from Shapeways, all in their WSF (White Strong & Flexible) material. From left to right, the Birch Gun, Vickers Medium Mk.II, Carden-Loyd Light Tank Mk.VIII, and Vickers Medium Mk.C. All in 15mm (1:100) scale, and all available for sale from my Shapeways shop (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mojobobdesign).
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Er_hEwG6vnU/VtyxqWPNH7I/AAAAAAAAF4Y/J89hXjxo99M/s1600/shapeways2.jpg)
The WSF plastic does resolve quite a reasonable amount of detail amongst the printing clutter. It's certainly not good enough for fine scale modelling, but for gaming pieces, it's great. It takes paint very well indeed, which is at least one advantage of having such a pronounced surface texture, and it's virtually indestructible. It would be useable for vehicles down to about 1:200 scale I should think, but anything smaller than that would be problematic — it wouldn't be worth modeling for anything more than silhouette.
My next batch will be in the same stuff, but black, which should cut out a painting step.
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Cool photo...and boy is that Carden-Loyd Light Tank a baby!
Looking forward to seeing your Mk III.
You seem to be getting better and faster at this...though you may just be putting in more hours!
Either way you efforts are appreciated and fascinating to watch.
Cheers
Happy W ;)
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Here's a taste for you: the long-awaited Vickers Light Tank Mk.III.....
(https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4457765_14660047_1457342018.jpg)
....in 15mm scale :)
The 28mm re-scale is on its way.
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I hate to be critical, especially when talking about something I have no aptitude in myself, but I think you may have the crew cabin/engine compartment a touch too short and the glacis (?) a bit too long. I think the turret needs to be longer too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wx2spUQOO2U/Vt1wxjtkdmI/AAAAAAAAWyI/1W2P17TTaWQ/s640-Ic42/IWM-KID-333-Light-tank-MkIII.jpg)
From what I can tell from this photo, the driver's position begins at the first wheel.
That aside the model looks very impressive and the detail you've incorporated likewise. :)
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I hate to be critical, especially when talking about something I have no aptitude in myself, but I think you may have the crew cabin/engine compartment a touch too short and the glacis (?) a bit too long. I think the turret needs to be longer too.
Yes, I think you might be right.
EDIT: I've made some modifications, and to my eye it looks a bit better now. Thanks for picking up on that; one of the perils of getting too close to a project is that the brain can just gloss over errors :)
(https://images3.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4457765_14671228_1457382546.jpg)
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The second version definitely look better.
It's probably not a bad idea to put your hand up and say "Ok, can anyone tell me what is wrong with the vehicle and what needs attending to". Given you are doing this without plans its a miracle you can do this at all!
If you make a mistake and no one gives constructive criticism then all that happens is people don't buy or use your hard efforts which would be a shame as you're going making some cracking good gear and minor adjustments seem eminently doable..so I think anyone making comment is only trying to help...that's how I'd see it...
...and I certainly agree that getting TOO close to a project makes all sorts of little things disappear that a fresh set of eyes picks up rather quickly.
Once again, great job on the Mk III ;) ;)
Happy W
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For me that looks spot on now. :)
Yes, I agree with HW. It's very easy to be critical of something too, but you have to weigh-up whether that criticism is actually useful. Sadly I've noticed a tendency for people to seemingly enjoy demonstrating their supposed 'superior knowledge' on forums in quite a negative way.
That looks like the MK. III on the photo to me anyway, so well done on that.
While Interwar is quite a niche period what you have so far should have an appeal to VBCW and ARBM fans I would have thought.
You're also getting into the realm of vehicles which did get used in WWII now too, which is where most people's interest tends to lie. As mentioned before the MK. III was used by the South Africans and Australians in the early years of WWII... as was the MK. V by the Australians at least. Given the Perry's current focus on all things WWII Middle East this is really an opportune time for these models.
:)
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I've re-scaled a couple of my models:
Vickers Medium Mk.II
1/144 scale: http://shpws.me/LSo2 (http://shpws.me/LSo2)
1/72 scale: http://shpws.me/LSpI (http://shpws.me/LSpI)
Vickers Light Mk.III
1/144 scale: http://shpws.me/LSpH (http://shpws.me/LSpH)
1/72 scale: http://shpws.me/LSpJ (http://shpws.me/LSpJ)
The 1/144 scale stuff is only available in Frosted Ultra/Extreme Detail resin; the 1/72 models are available in that and in White/Black Strong Flexible.
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And here at last is the 1/56th scale version of the Vickers Light Mk.III at http://shpws.me/LStV (http://shpws.me/LStV)
(https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4465855_14695497_1457482634.jpg)
This will be the last Vickers light tank for a while, because frankly, now I'm kind of sick of them :)
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The Lancia Armoured Truck is now available in 20mm (1/72) scale, at http://shpws.me/LSXF (http://shpws.me/LSXF).
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Fitz,
Brilliant work.
I have an order ready to go but can't see the MkIIb Indian Pattern turret which I thought you had done.
I want to get two MkIII and one Mk IIb Indian Pattern 1/56 vehicles.
Shapeways also have a post free offer for another day so I want to take advantage of that as we pay heavy postage here in Australia.
Any chance you can get the Mk IIb indian pattern version up on the shopping cart? I think the only change is the turret just has the extra cupola added on the Mk IIb vehicle. Ideally if you can just sell the turret as a separate piece a then I can order a Mk IIB and extra turret to give essentially two vehicles...that would be the best outcome.
Hope you can get this sorted so I can buy the vehicle else the order will have to go without it to avoid excessive postage.
Anyway, great stuff and looking forward to getting your shape ways models ;)
Happy W
PS I have some other devious suggestions to give you a break for your Vickers addiction that should prove very useful! :D :D :D
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I haven't done the Indian pattern turret yet, I was concentrating on getting the Mk.III out of the way.
EDIT: OK, now I've done an Indian pattern turret :)
It's at http://shpws.me/LT8O (http://shpws.me/LT8O)
(https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4470629_14714082_1457570518.jpg)
I've had to do a bit of guessing around the spotlight and what-not, but I think it's pretty close from what I can see in photos.
The top hatch is pretty tiny; I'm wondering if maybe the access hatch wraps around the top and rear of the cupola? That's pure speculation, but it would fit with the way Vickers attacked the issue on other vehicles.
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33836019/Vickers%20Light%20Mk%20IIb%20-%20Indian%20Pattern.jpg)
This picture I found of the India Pattern IIb looks like it's had the turret stretched a bit, and there appears to be a box-like structure on the hull rear (or is that part of the wall behind?). And there's a prominent filling-cap on the port side of the hull.
I guess I'll have to modify the whole thing. Curses.
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Hey Fitz,
Lovely looking turret but as you say not quite right.
Here's a useful page with all around shots of the Mk II Indian Pattern vehicle.
http://www.imaco.com.hk/cgi-bin/prod.pl/id/IMA02635
There is kind of a box structure on the rear hull but this page shows you all you need to know I think.
(http://www.imaco.com.hk/kits/800/IMA02635/P1010143.jpg)
Finally, here's another useful side shot for the Tanks Encyclopaedia site.
(http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2/gb/Lights/Light_MkI-II-III/Light_tank_mkII_indian_pattern.png)
One last point - are able to make the hatch a separate or detachable (cut out) piece...or does this increase the cost of the item?
I shall hold off until you 'stretch' it and then order that....ready to go over the top! ;)
Cheers...and thanks for that zappy service to your 'customer' needs...can't ask for more than that can we lads...
Happy W
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The photos I have indicate that the storage box on the rear of the hull is a more vertical affair than in that model and drawing:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33836019/Vickers-Light-Mk-IIb---Indian-Pattern2.jpg)
That's what I've done here: http://shpws.me/LTaR (http://shpws.me/LTaR)
(https://images4.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4470944_14715802_1457579668.jpg)
Note that the turret in this render is sitting further forward than it would on the model, because it's displayed attached to a sprue (to cut down handling charges).
I can open up the hatches, but it will require some fairly substantial remodeling, so it may not be soon. It will probably increase the cost of the item from Shapeways, but I wouldn't think it would be by much.
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"The photos I have indicate that the storage box on the rear of the hull is a more vertical affair than in that model and drawing:"
OK. That's all working for me. I'll order a complete Mk IIb Indian Pattern vehicle. Are you able to make the turrets for the MkII/MK IIb IP and Mk III separate purchase items so we can kind of mix and match if we want?
That photo is interesting as it has different diagonal suspension, not the horizontal suspension. So from your models that would be a Mk III chassis and an IP turret!..hence the separate order option...bloody poms and their tank versions!!!
HATCH
"I can open up the hatches, but it will require some fairly substantial remodeling, so it may not be soon. It will probably increase the cost of the item from Shapeways, but I wouldn't think it would be by much."
OK...forget that. I want/need to order ASAP..I'll work around it.....maybe an open hatch option later...
All good.
Top job!...you are the man ;D
Happier W
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So this wad my first venture into acquiring a 3D printed wargaming item. The Vickers II was shipped today. I really wanted the India Pattern so I was a bit fast on the trigger, but I'll make do or convert it. Anyway, I am quite in a little wonder about the level of detail, the sturdiness and, if promises hold fast, will accept paint like a beaut. A piece of lead to make it sit properly on the board and everything will be super-
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Sounds good Hammers - any chance of some 'in the hands' pics instead of the CG stuff online?
Cheers
HW
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So whatcha going to make now?
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I'm looking at an Austin-Kegresse half-tracked armoured car.
(http://derela.republika.pl/auskegr_big.jpg)
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Monstrous! ;D
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Whilst your on the interwar theme how about a Crossley A/C for the NWF and various other places..funky turret and another winner that is not currently available.
(http://wiki.fibis.org/images/thumb/4/4c/ArmouredCarCachy_NWF1933.jpg/500px-ArmouredCarCachy_NWF1933.jpg)
HW
PS Still holding off on my order...are you able to sell turrets separately so we can mix and match?
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Looks like i will have a long wait for my Dutchman . :-[
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/dburns_04/3ec299af-f579-4eff-abec-72bee1c2b36d_zps3l8cdezz.jpg)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/dburns_04/e5c58919-860a-4956-87b4-46aaf0239ac5_zpseeyycoio.jpg)
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Or how about a Skoda PA II Zelva -- a classic in interwar modernist design.
See: http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=40029.msg467600#msg467600
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Whilst your on the interwar theme how about a Crossley A/C for the NWF and various other places..funky turret and another winner that is not currently available.
(http://wiki.fibis.org/images/thumb/4/4c/ArmouredCarCachy_NWF1933.jpg/500px-ArmouredCarCachy_NWF1933.jpg)
HW
PS Still holding off on my order...are you able to sell turrets separately so we can mix and match?
It is available. I have to. Company B, if I remember correctly.
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I spent today making this. It's the Carro Armato Fiat Typo 2000 of 1918, in 1/100th scale, for 15mm gaming.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qRqrBzNziHQ/VuJrX5-5I6I/AAAAAAAAF5g/18ccUbev4Fkhso3ubUF7jUoRJqYTWQ3hQ/s1600/fiat2000.jpg)
Coming.....
I think it's kind of cute, for a tank. It has a kind of obese, bumbling look about it, and the original was pretty damn huge too, it stood about twelve feet tall.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pLC_nUmZ0ew/VuJrXyA5-iI/AAAAAAAAF5c/ZXm3Ma4ceVwtEX0ac1fhiEwWCXO4wQfAA/s1600/fiat2000b.jpg)
....and going
I've put it up on my shop at Shapeways (http://shpws.me/LTPf), but for some reason the site will no longer let me alter the position of the model for rendering, and I'm stuck with the default they gave me, which is of the rear view. That's not ideal, but there's not a lot I can do about it at the moment.
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"It is available. I have to. Company B, if I remember correctly."
It's be unavailable for some time Hammers...can't see it coming back any time soon....
http://035f399.netsolhost.com/companyB_models_interwar.html
HW
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I was thinking of doing a sprue of Lewis guns in 28mm, with bipods folded down and up. Probably about six to ten on the sprue, and only in FUD/FED (WSF would just be a blob).
But before I get too far into this, I'm wondering if there's any call at all for such a product?
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Well, there are plenty of those to be found from various vendors. But the quality of detail you've been aböe to provide may make it worth it, depending on the price, of course.
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It's a trickier job than I first thought. Just designing a model to scale is no great problem; I have suitable plans to work from, and the FUD resin will reproduce sufficient detail. But to be compatible with many figure ranges, the gun would have to be made a lot chunkier — a gun to true scale would tend to look overly light and skinny.
What with the time and expense involved in prototyping and matching weights by trial and error, I don't think it's a goer.
I think I'll shelve this one.
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a gun to true scale would tend to look overly light and skinny.
That is the constant problem across wargaming; people do vary but weapons should all be the same size across a 'scale'.
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That is the constant problem across wargaming; people do vary but weapons should all be the same size across a 'scale'.
I do not agree at all. There are great looking miniatures out the which are not proportionally scaled down properly at all.
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That's what I meant. People defy being to 'a scale' and come in all heights, shapes and sizes. So a diversity of different sculpting styles and variations is fine (yet oddly people often demand all their figures be the same height).
A set item is a fixed size, i.e. A Karabiner 98K is always 1,11m long. A Vickers Gun does not look anything like an oil drum on legs.
I can live with some variation, but there are figures out there that look like they are carrying weapons disguised as telegraph poles.
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This is maybe more suitable for Great War or Back of Beyond gaming, but it might find a use slightly later as well.
(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4500071_14833233_1458208367.jpg)
Benz-Mgebrov armoured car, c.1916
I thought this would be easier than it was, but trying to figure out from the scale drawings just what the hell was going on up front there turned out to be a bit brain-bending. I found some old photos of Renault-Mgebrovs which were similar enough to give me some clues, but I'm not convinced that I've got it right.
The model is 1/100 scale for 15mm gaming, and is available from my Shapeways shop for about eleven bucks (http://shpws.me/LXdP).
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(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gx0UgRKXPgM/Vu2ppeJ4fOI/AAAAAAAAGCE/l-uHGmPKxLse--U56u6OPFpOH5eYqbXgA/s640/Austin-Kegresse_15mm_rivets.jpg)
This is the Austin-Kegresse (http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww1/russia/Austin-Kegresse.php), the first armoured half-track. It was developed from the Austin armoured car, and used in Russia during and after World War One. Like the Benz-Mgebrov, probably better suited to RCW/BoB games, but you never know what old clunkers some of the militias might have pulled out of retirement :)
The model is 1/100 scale, for 15mm gaming. It's available now from my Shapeways shop at http://shpws.me/LY4A (http://shpws.me/LY4A), starting at $12.00 for the WSF version.
EDIT: I've gone back and added rivets to the thing, because I just can't resist rivets even though they print erratically at best in WSF. Who knows, maybe some day I'll be able to afford to get everything printed in FUD, and then it will all be worth while.
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Gents,
I got Fritz’s Shapeways vehicles and got to painting one up. I’m well pleased with these models…highly recommend.
Check them out here.
http://wp.me/p6mUyQ-Fe
Cheers
Happy W
(https://abyssiniancrisis.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/img_24431.jpg?w=676)
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I've just finished this new model: the Lanchester Mk.II (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanchester_6x4_armoured_car) of 1930 in 1/100 scale. It was a much more capable successor to the WW1-vintage Lanchester (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanchester_4x2_Armoured_Car).
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BaWcfHoyCUY/VvtWv9__DYI/AAAAAAAAGG0/NalSAsOzAPY2O90WCHBDXW6WOjbLM7vEQ/s1600/LanchesterMkII.jpg)
It's up at my Shapeways shop at http://shpws.me/M0uE (http://shpws.me/M0uE), but at the moment the page just shows a big banner saying "This model is no longer publicly available", which is entirely false, and apparently due to some bug introduced during their most recent systems-tinkering.
The Lanchester Mk.II wasn't nearly as rivet-studded as some other vehicles of the era, and it came as a bit of a wrench to me not to sprinkle them all over the place as is my wont. I do like plenty of rivets.
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Lovely. And I admire your restrain, Sir!
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The Lanchester is available in 1/285 scale now as well —
just as a single model at the moment, but I'll have a sprue of five up shortly now, which would be really, really is better value for money.
http://shpws.me/M0FE (http://shpws.me/M0FE) for the single model
http://shpws.me/M0HX (http://shpws.me/M0HX) for the 5-up sprue
(https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4549144_15030012_1459372314.jpg)
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Next up, the Garford-Putilov (http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww1/russia/Putilov-Garford.php) armoured truck of 1914 (1916?), based on the American Garford truck.
(https://images4.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4558066_15060648_1459555506.jpg)
It wasn't an elegant machine by any means, and it was grossly top-heavy and under-powered but I rather like the weird look of the thing. It would work for Back-of-Beyond and Interwar as well as WW1, since it was used in the Russian Civil War, and by the Freikorps. It could even make its way into WWII games, since apparently the Germans encountered a few around Leningrad, though they didn't last very long.
The turret is attached to the body of the vehicle by sprues that will need to be cut away. I've experimented for the first time with a lug-and-socket arrangement on the turret plug so that it will remain in place regardless of the attitude of the main body of the model.
It's available from my Shapeways shop at http://shpws.me/M19z (http://shpws.me/M19z), starting at $13.50 in WSF plastic.
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I've put up some stuff on my blog about my experiments with WSF/BSF 3d prints, to try to ameliorate the sponge-like surface texture somewhat.
The post is at http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2016/04/bsf-prep-part-2.html (http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2016/04/bsf-prep-part-2.html)
It would be best to look at the photos at full size if possible, to be able to see most clearly the difference between the various treatments I've tried.
In summary, it looks like a couple of undiluted coats of acrylic gesso does as good a job as anything.
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Shapeways have added a new high-resolution material that looks like it might be worth investigating. It's not that much cheaper than their ultra-detail resin, but it's a little bit cheaper and might be more useful for my rivety-tank-modeling purposes than the fairly shitty WSF sintered nylon.
I've ordered a couple of models in it, so I'll be interested to see how they look in the flesh.
https://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/24432-introducing-our-newest-material-black-high-definition-acrylate.html (https://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/24432-introducing-our-newest-material-black-high-definition-acrylate.html)
It allows for quite thin walls (0.5mm), so if I pay attention to hollowing out everything that could conceivably be hollowed out, I might be able to bring the cost of larger models down to something a bit less painful.
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Fitz, it is very interesting. Our inhouse R&D.
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Seconded. :)
For me the problem is the sheer cost of the fine-finish materials. I imagine this will become less of an issue over time though and clearly Shapeways are working on it.
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I've put together a sprue of six 1/100 scale Lewis guns with pole mounts that could be used to arm vehicles (like the Lancia armoured truck) or fortified positions.
(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4563541_15084443_1459729532.jpg)
They're only available in FUD/FED (or high-def acrylate, which is only available to makers for the moment) because in WSF/BSF they'd just be shapeless blobs.
They're at http://shpws.me/M1zg (http://shpws.me/M1zg).
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I just got a few more models from Shapeways, and I've taken some photographs of them, and processed those photos in the most unflattering way possible to bring out as much detail as possible.
Frankly, it's not really fair to be looking at them like this, because in real life the models are very small and many of the faults aren't really visible. However, it's good to know exactly what you can expect from 3d printing.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yR4kr0xumEs/VwRVLn5-RfI/AAAAAAAAGKE/qfuudQIXtxoz7xam3nCA63T06Oz_mdP4Q/s1600/20160406shapeways-002.jpg)
First up, the 1/100 scale Fiat 2000 (http://shpws.me/LTPf) in WSF nylon. This is the first WSF model I've done on which all of the rivets have printed visibly. I thought that I had gone overboard by using 0.8 mm diameter icospheres; in the renders they looked like footballs glued to the hull of the beast, but in the flesh they actually look pretty good; though actually grossly over-scale, they don't look horribly over-scale. 0.7 - 0.8 mm seems to be the sweet spot for SF nylon printing.
That means that it's not really possible to replicate the exact rivet patterns on specific vehicles; they'd be far too crowded. I just have to apply rivets in such a way that it gives the right impression of how they were laid out.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fuy5i4iTJT4/VwRVLdSd_2I/AAAAAAAAGJ8/ouisc_Idyj8RoG4-iuZ9T45iXOw5tDCdw/s1600/20160406shapeways-003.jpg)
This is the 15mm Benz-Mgebrov armoured car (http://shpws.me/LXdP), again in WSF nylon. From memory, I think these rivets used 0.5 or 0.6 mm icospheres, and though some are clearly visible, others in problematic printing areas are quite indistinct. Also, the limitations of the material means that the sharp edges between the various angled plates have been softened quite substantially.
I haven't hollowed this model (yet), so I haven't offered it in FUD resin — it would just be too expensive. If there's a request for it I'll do it, but not until then; I'd rather be making new models than revisiting old ones.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q1NB7Pm8ry0/VwRVLi4xE_I/AAAAAAAAGKA/3FqysLZoweop4I0Q7ZrIbhiU_BHS62Trg/s1600/20160406shapeways-004.jpg)
Lastly, the 15mm Vickers Light Tank Mk.III (http://shpws.me/LRjI), this time in FUD resin. The rivets on this model are 0.5mm diameter, and they've all printed clearly, plate edges are clear and sharp, and surface detail is all nicely visible (though terrible to photograph, being translucent).
The FUD resin is much, much more expensive than WSF, but if you want a sharp, clean finish, it's clearly much, much superior. Shapeways charges by material volume for FUD, so hollowing out anything that can conceivably be hollow is imperative to keep costs down
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"The FUD resin is much, much more expensive than WSF"
So when you say "The FUD resin is much, much more expensive than WSF"...just how much more expensive for this finer grade material exactly?
I've just finished up my Carden Loyd carrier and the Vallejo Black Undercoat did a pretty good job of smoothing out the WSF. I think this will be standard preparation for me from now on as the overall effect is better even if a few details are softened by the relatively 'heavy' undercoat....to be fair, it really does a good job at providing a solid painting surface for WSF material, which mostly 'sucks up' the undercoat which the Vallejo product does admirably and still achieving a good painting surface once dry.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q2_JC509Cj4/VwYKNuyhztI/AAAAAAAAGPU/QYCyzXpr-_0ATBFQWgjd7jETJkP-Lmn1QCCo/s1152-Ic42/IMG_2485.JPG)
HW
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"The FUD resin is much, much more expensive than WSF"
So when you say "The FUD resin is much, much more expensive than WSF"...just how much more expensive for this finer grade material exactly?
It's variable — Shapeways charges WSF on machine space (plus handling), and FUD on material volume (plus handling). If a model is carefully hollowed, keeping wall thicknesses to a reasonable structural minimum, FUD generally works out at at least twice the price of WSF, and sometimes more if there are areas that can't be practically hollowed.
Charging by volume means that quite a modest increase in scale can result in quite a drastic increase in price. For example, the model I've just finished, the Bob Semple tank (http://shpws.me/M2mS), goes from $19 in 1/100 toe $39 in 1/72 (in WSF). I suspect the cost would probably double again if I were to re-scale it to 1/56, possibly even more. The increase in price by scale for FUD is even worse — from $52 to $125.
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Ok. I can see the effect of how that works. Looks like it's WSF...so keep punching them out! I hope you're making good sales on this stuff because you're getting quite a solid line of models going.
Getting models done for niche markets that are not catered for by anyone else is a good idea...interwar is a winner and IMHO the Rhodesian Bush Wars is another ;)
HW
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pUwP2w7R1tQ/VwlunNPnY-I/AAAAAAAAGK0/OyzVNlHcXBcRvmCCZ7ge_TmnFNrhGkN8A/s1600/3dprint_WSF-FUD_Comparison.jpg)
This is a direct comparison between Shapeways WSF (White Strong & Flexible) and FUD (Frosted Ultra Detail) materials. This is what you get when you pay for the premium stuff vs. the cheaper stuff.
They're not exactly the same model, but both are based on pretty much the same chassis, and both use the same sizing parameters for things like rivets and what-not. You can see that in the WSF, the rivets have pretty much disappeared.
You can pull out a bit more detail in the WSF by judicious painting, and it does look fine at tabletop distances, but the FUD is clearly superior. Where the FUD might fall down as a material for gaming pieces is that it's quite brittle — you can see a spot on the starboard track-guard where I knocked off a headlight when I was cleaning off the waxy shit that it comes covered in. The WSF is, on the other hand, practically indestructible.
Shapeways are trialling a much tougher acrylate high-resolution material; I've ordered some things in it, and I shall be interested to see how they stack up.
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More brittle is not the way to go imo.
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Very useful information Fitz.
I agree with Hammers...'brittle not so good'...especially if you pay full tilt.
As soon as Shapeways gets the FUD 'finish' combined with the WSF toughness and pricing...traditional 28mm vehicle modelling will be revolutionised.
...bring it on ;)
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As soon as Shapeways gets the FUD 'finish' combined with the WSF toughness and pricing...traditional 28mm vehicle modelling will be revolutionised.
I think that depends a lot on how soon they can bring the price down — way down. At present, it's not a commercially viable platform — people will pay a little more for what they can't get elsewhere, just as they do for niche resin kits, but that's a tiny market. And when it comes to the high-resolution materials, at the moment the cost is enough to make even enthusiasts baulk.
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I've just got my first two models from Shapeways in HDA (High-Definition Acrylate), and to be quite honest, I am not impressed.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JqBo4UT207s/VyP9JFep1iI/AAAAAAAAGRo/GcvUIkZGmZ0k_T3navTmNb0BY_DXYTaTQCLcB/s640/20160430_shapeways_acrylate-000.jpg)
Clearly visible print lines, distortion where the model appears to have shifted during printing, and considerable pock-marking left by support structures.
One of the models was broken, either during packing or in transit, and in spite of the claims of being so much tougher than FUD resin, it seems to me so far to be almost equally brittle and fragile.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1xlPspw_Jvg/VyP9KA0RASI/AAAAAAAAGR8/7THSjqyVx3EvLQfx2y-ksWSxdve7J3oTwCLcB/s640/20160430_shapeways_acrylate-004.jpg)
It's not very much cheaper than FUD, and in fact for multi-part models it will be considerably more expensive.
I can see no benefit to using HDA over FUD.
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(https://images1.sw-cdn.net/product/picture/625x465_14170341_8675129_1462104233.jpg)
Here's the latest — the Soviet T27a tankette of 1932, based on the Carden-Loyd design. I've done it in 15mm (1/100 (http://shpws.me/M8jb)) and 20mm (1/72) (http://shpws.me/M8jc) scales.
It's pretty tiny, only about 35mm long in 1/72.
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Fantastic to have an accessible model of this in 20mm. Just ordered 12 with more later when I can afford it.
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I've finished modelling the Soviet T-24 medium tank of 1932 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-24_tank) in 1:100 scale, for 15mm gaming.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wsYv91_9LiY/Vy7l-EEGSLI/AAAAAAAAGUc/CZC8US2jUbo7k1KXGVkacLpoBOlJF3DTQCLcB/s1600/t24_15mm_1.jpg)
It's a lot lumpier than the original: due to printing size limitations, things like rivets, track links and what-have -you have to be hugely over-scale to show up at all. It generally looks OK in the flesh.
Photographs of the original are pretty thin on the ground, and tend to be very grainy and blurry, so I've had to make a few semi-educated guesses about some structures.
It's available for sale from Shapeways, at http://shpws.me/Ma76 (http://shpws.me/Ma76). It's $15.00 in WSF, or $32 in FUD.
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What's next?
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Really cool minis.
Maybe I should use shapeways next time too for my hyena.
cheers
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(https://images3.sw-cdn.net/product/picture/625x465_14298963_8723021_1463028328.jpg)
Next in the list of things I've built is this pre-WWII German armoured car, the SdKfz 3. It was a big, heavy monster of a thing. It had no provision for permanent armament, but machine-guns were often mounted on the roof, with access via a pair of large trap-doors.
It took a surprisingly long time to put together. Nothing is ever as simple as it first appears.
It's available in 1/100 scale for 15mm gaming at http://shpws.me/MbaF (http://shpws.me/MbaF)
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CLliFgy86Y/VzbTvbE4yTI/AAAAAAAAGV4/A_wYFX_344MhILPLgTDJpfdAEZWRRk1UACLcB/s1600/T18_ShapewaysWSF.jpg)
This is my 15mm model of the Soviet T-18 (also called by them the M6). It was based on the Renault FT, with the addition of vertical suspension, and was produced from 1928 to 1931.
It's available at my Shapeways shop at http://shpws.me/MbEL (http://shpws.me/MbEL) for a measley ten bucks for WSF, and a slightly less measley eighteen bucks for FUD.
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Are you planning to release any of these for 28mm i.e 1/56 scale?
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Are you planning to release any of these for 28mm i.e 1/56 scale?
I do it from time to time, but it's a low priority. Re-scaling to 1/56 generally requires a lot of re-designing, and the cost of printing skyrockets with material volume, so sales are usually virtually non-existent.
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rr9P9zEsNOo/VzkAh1kpTLI/AAAAAAAAGWQ/nuO-3qdcIqosmSKmwSgRck6tCRky0romQCLcB/s1600/T18_6mm_ShapewaysFUD.jpg)
I've rebuilt my T-18 for production in 1/285 scale for 6mm gaming. It's available (as a single, for the moment) at http://shpws.me/Mc2R (http://shpws.me/Mc2R)
It is tiny, really teensy-weensy. It comes out at just a fraction over 15mm long.
How much of that rivet and panel-line detail will show on the printed models, I have no idea. There will be some, but it's difficult to predict.
The guns look idiotically stumpy and humungous, but in fact they're only 0.6mm in diameter.
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Finally finished these T-27s by Fitz in 20mm from Shapeways, in White Strong & Flexible material.
I sprayed them with Rustoleum plastic primer, then sprayed again with PSC British armour, touched up with Vallejo WW11 Russian Uniform Green, painted MGs and tracks with a mixture of oily steel and gunmetal grey, lights with silver, then black ink wash. I then sprayed in clear plastidip.
The primer didn't seem really to work in that the WSF material sucked up a lot of paint, and also the black wash had little discernible effect once dry ou can clearly see this in pictures 2 and 3, where there is no sign of the wash.
When the MS-1 tanks (T-18s) I have ordered arrive, I might try spraying on with plastidip first instead of the Rustoleum, to see if (a) this provides an impermeable barrier and (b) holds paint. If it does then I will use the same process as before but with plastidip instead of Rustoleum at the beginning (and also for the final layer).
The photographs aren't particularly good but the vehicles have all ended up with a flat finish. The difference in colour in the last photo is down to the light. They are lovely models and as I have been looing for a model of the T-27 in years I am very grateful to Fitz for doing this and doing it in 20mm.
They really do deserve to be seen in quantity too - just right for Soviet Interwar armour,
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll263/clivies/IMG_5436_zpsjvnbs5sg.jpg) (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/clivies/media/IMG_5436_zpsjvnbs5sg.jpg.html)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll263/clivies/IMG_5438_zpsmu5szlst.jpg) (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/clivies/media/IMG_5438_zpsmu5szlst.jpg.html)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll263/clivies/IMG_5437_zpsq2bzzp5s.jpg) (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/clivies/media/IMG_5437_zpsq2bzzp5s.jpg.html)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll263/clivies/IMG_5439_zpsv4sz6xju.jpg) (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/clivies/media/IMG_5439_zpsv4sz6xju.jpg.html)
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b9n1EWRsdSY/VzqnOGsvU3I/AAAAAAAAGXI/qK_8ZF4iZ4U0PJO9r1Uh46PlPQDSYVvrQCLcB/s1600/su18_15mm.jpg)
Since I already had all the geometry for the T-18 light tank this was based on, I thought I might as well whack out the self-propelled gun version, the SU-18.
It's available in 15mm (1/100) scale right now at http://shpws.me/Mclb (http://shpws.me/Mclb), with 20mm (1/72) and 6mm (1/285) scale versions to come shortly.
EDIT:
Now available in these other scales as well:
- 20mm (1/72) http://shpws.me/Mcni (http://shpws.me/Mcni)
- 6mm (1/285) http://shpws.me/Mcnj (http://shpws.me/Mcnj) (single model)
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I've rescaled a bunch of my 1:100 scale (15mm) models to 1:72 (20mm). They can be found in the 20mm section of my Shapeways page at https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mojobobdesign?section=20mm+%281%2F72%29+Miniatures&s=0 (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mojobobdesign?section=20mm+%281%2F72%29+Miniatures&s=0).
The new 20mm models are:
- Benz-Mgebrov armoured car
- Carden Loyd Light Tank Mk.VIII
- Garford-Putilov armoured truck
- SdKfz 3 armoured car
- Vickers Light Mk.IIb
And coming up, the Komintern Tractor, which was based on the running-gear of the T-12 and T-24.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Egye8PzieGk/Vz52wrGxHCI/AAAAAAAAGYg/kZgNc0Fc7ykbsPnPFapbcB2LuReDuImCACLcB/s1600/komintern_15mm_03.jpg)
I thought it would be a doddle, since I could just re-use the stuff I'd already done for the T-24.... and to a certain degree, that's true. Except that I had to make a new drive wheel, new idler, and new track links. But at least I did get to use the suspension and road wheels, so that's nice.
I'm tossing up at the moment whether to leave the windows blank, or make holes in the cab shell for them. I'm tending towards making them solid for painting, since I don't want to build a multi-part model, and it would be pretty impossible to get at the inside of the cab to paint seats and what-not.
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ko3thJFc3cU/Vz6bxUkOVRI/AAAAAAAAGYw/tnixf8Vqiwoh8ELqLtcUe_xfJvq7LcnsQCLcB/s1600/komintern_15mm_shapewaysWSF.jpg)
Here's my next effort — the Komintern heavy tractor in 1:100 (15mm). Something to haul all those Soviet 203mm howitzers around. It's quite a beast.
It's at http://shpws.me/Md5G for $18 in WSF.
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(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uiQw0PNGsrE/Vz-jcBhkj3I/AAAAAAAAGZE/pAiDK8ASII4C9AyAbtRrtMFuUhkVFq76gCLcB/s1600/komintern_15mm_shapewaysWSF2.jpg)
The engine housing was too rounded in my first attempt, so I rebuilt it. I took the opportunity at the same time to detail the radiator grill a bit better.
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Fitz, I can't find the Sdkfz 3 in the 20mm shop - am I missing something? Or is it not there yet?
Thanks
Clive
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Fitz, I can't find the Sdkfz 3 in the 20mm shop - am I missing something? Or is it not there yet?
You're right, it's not in there, but it should be, and when I try to re-place it in the right section I just get an error. Once again, Shapeways have broken something on their site.
You can go to it direct from this link: http://shpws.me/MdC2 (http://shpws.me/MdC2)
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Thanks - will start saving up
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Here's the latest batch of my 15mm models, received from Shapeways this morning, all in WSF nylon.
I've de-sprued turrets, scrubbed them down with a toothbrush to remove any excess nylon powder, and sprayed them with a pale grey primer to make it possible to photograph them, but that's all that's been done to them thus far.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IZgu0SDvhGs/V0d6lNbHZcI/AAAAAAAAGbA/HUgnNloCmV4BvwaLqdwpDWoC1fAQfYYzQCLcB/s1600/20160527_ShapewaysVehicles.jpg)
They are, from left to right:
- Bob Semple tank (http://shpws.me/M2lg) (New Zealand, WW2)
- Garford-Putilov armoured truck (http://shpws.me/M19z) (Russia/Soviet Union, WW1—WW2)
- T-27 tankette (http://shpws.me/M8jb) (Soviet Union, interwar)
- T-24 medium tank (http://shpws.me/Ma76) (Soviet Union, interwar)
The limitations of the 3d printing process and material shows up most starkly in the steeply-sloped glacis of the Garford-Putilov's turret. The print layers are very apparent there. However, overall I'm quite pleased with them. As I've mentioned before, WSF isn't adequate for scale modelling purposes, but for wargaming models it's just fine.
Desktop stereolithography printers for high-resolution resin printing are available now for well under $US5,000, so I'm hopeful of being able to afford one of my own before senility sets in irretrievably.
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I saw the first one and instantly thought "Oh my god, did he really make a Bob Semple tank?!"
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The wargaming tables of the world need Bob Semple tanks :)
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Here's the WSF render for a new model, the Czech Tančík vz33 tankette, based (like many others) on the chassis of the Carden Loyd carrier.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dHNG5cifYHs/V05yauXtlQI/AAAAAAAAGdc/5K0VJ2-JaVAek3J8naQZp19O0PjTvaKyQCLcB/s1600/tancikvz33tankette_wsfrender.jpg)
This is the 15mm (1/100 scale) version; there's a 20mm (1/72) version in the works.
You can get it at http://shpws.me/MgdR (http://shpws.me/MgdR)
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--3VJPVd_wCo/V098Io4_zwI/AAAAAAAAGec/1dn8h7McFr8vPeL8f2WLlIoMHGBC4vRRACLcB/s640/20160602_t18su18.jpg)
Here are my latest 15mm military vehicle prints from Shapeways.
I've cleaned off the extraneous printing crap (though possibly not completely, by the look of the T-18's suspension) and sprayed them with Vallejo surface primer, which makes them a thousand percent easier to photograph, without hiding any surface imperfections.
The SdKfz 3 (below) has been printed in WSF, while the T-18 and SU-18 (above) have both been printed in FUD.
[Insert here regular complaint about the high cost of printing in decent resolution resin]
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NIP-R8GgmkM/V098IrCEl5I/AAAAAAAAGeY/xW9GqHA6qi4rwznZwN6QXlTpZS8ksoEdwCLcB/s640/20160602_kfz3.jpg)
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The 1/72 scale (20mm) version of my Czech Tančík vz33 tankette is available now at http://shpws.me/Mhq3 (http://shpws.me/Mhq3)
There's not much to be seen to differentiate the two scales except size, but the 1/72 version has a bit more refinement in detailing things like the machine-guns.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e0XvpxDxALk/V1QN6TRrObI/AAAAAAAAGgU/EBod-ssUR00URZCV19JofNdIA-X290ZpgCLcB/s1600/tancikvz33tankette20mm_wsfrender.jpg)
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This is the Burford-Kegresse, a British half-tracked machine-gun carrier, from about 1926 I think.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HlmdxQJsX1w/V1obCzWzabI/AAAAAAAAGhs/vn7CDXjaT2U_v4Aqa5zTtmA6N1_2o47pwCLcB/s1600/BurfordKegresse.jpg)
It mounted two Vickers guns on a modified aircraft Scarff mount.
I've been pondering how to build the model so that the guns could be adjustable; it's not impossible, but I think the 3d-printing tolerances might make it impractical in this scale. Maybe when I re-scale it up to 1/72.
The 1/100 scale model for 15mm gaming is available at http://shpws.me/MiBM (http://shpws.me/MiBM)
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Now the 1/72 scale version of the Burford-Kegresse is available at http://shpws.me/MiXh
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-42AX2c4Mn1E/V1vx-dbelhI/AAAAAAAAGiE/qTPMgfG5zJcn1xwAUcZ5ihVHpnUTHMaPACLcB/s1600/BurfordKegresse20mm.jpg)
The rivets on this one are the same size as the 1/100 scale model, but thanks to the overall increase in size, they look a bit less like baseballs.
Also, the Scarff mount and Vickers guns are separate components, sprued to the main body of the vehicle. That means that after they've been cut away, they can be assembled at any orientation and/or elevation you choose.
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I started following you on Shapeways earlier this week, and now I find this thread! Can any of the 15mm stuff be re-sized to 1/56th?
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Would being brushed down with some acetone reduce the printer scan lines in the WSF? (I've seen it done on other printed stuff - admittedly it was scenery so had fewer small details to accidently melt)
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I started following you on Shapeways earlier this week, and now I find this thread! Can any of the 15mm stuff be re-sized to 1/56th?
Some of it has been, but the problem is that resizing to 1/56 increases the price about six or seven-fold.
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Would being brushed down with some acetone reduce the printer scan lines in the WSF? (I've seen it done on other printed stuff - admittedly it was scenery so had fewer small details to accidently melt)
Acetone has no effect on it at all. It's a sintered nylon material, and I've yet to find an effective solvent for it.
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I've re-sized my 1935 Komintern artillery tractor to 1/285 scale.
It's now also also available in 1/285 scale at http://shpws.me/MjpE (http://shpws.me/MjpE) (single model) and at http://shpws.me/MjpC (http://shpws.me/MjpC) (sprue of four vehicles).
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ihJlEd7jFTM/V14TLy3SY5I/AAAAAAAAGic/1W-JDA_9bSQnpltFnT88jqMStqjoCW8xgCLcB/s1600/komintern_6mm4up.jpg)
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(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nkYPOhgmIwE/V20rK-EN3XI/AAAAAAAAGkY/uQJpvBvC_egw4r4cxTZVrauMydUwtYzzACLcB/s1600/voroshilovetz_beta01.jpg)
I'm building another Soviet artillery tractor in 15mm (1/100 scale), this time the Voroshilovetz, the replacement for the aging Komintern.
The 15mm (1/100 scale) version is at http://shpws.me/Mmbg (http://shpws.me/Mmbg)
A lot of the geometry is from the Komintern model, but almost everything needed some adjustment, and the running gear had to be rebuilt almost from scratch.
I had a go at building a canopy for the back, but it wasn't very successful. I can't seem to get the drape of the fabric right. I'll give it another go, but I have to say that organic shapes are really giving me grief.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fdy8V1IzDiY/V20tO2cxmXI/AAAAAAAAGkk/NV8XkL1RPRE6opTq88GYTF2SWFjUTYrXgCLcB/s1600/voroshilovetz_beta00.jpg)
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Q-aE4Jz-fc/V3E5TU1TxlI/AAAAAAAAGk8/K2tDylA7cqgwsoGXEcIVsh3C7WjobPDrQCLcB/s1600/voroshilovetz_canopy01.jpg)
I've sort of managed to get the canvas of the canopy looking more like fabric, though I think some of the geometry is a bit suspect for printing.
We shall have to see how it goes. Shapeways' automated pre-checks passed it, which is nice I guess, but those automated checks seem to be countermanded fairly regularly when the model gets to the manual pre-checking stage.
Adding the tilt to the back bumped up the WSF printing cost by about two bucks fifty, and the FUD print by about four bucks fifty, which is less than I had feared.
The 15mm Voroshilovetz with canvas tilt is at http://shpws.me/MmJN (http://shpws.me/MmJN)
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As one 3d worker to another, nice work on that draping! Most of the time I just skip it entirely and sculpt that part by hand if I can help it. Did you step out to another program for it? I find that these soft details are a lot easier in sculpting programs like sculptrix or even meshmixer rather then hard edge design programs.
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Did you step out to another program for it? I find that these soft details are a lot easier in sculpting programs like sculptrix or even meshmixer rather then hard edge design programs.
No — I did try Sculptrix, but it was kind of disastrous, probably because I didn't subdivide and triangulate sufficiently before I exported the .OBJ to it. I have MeshMixer, but I've hardly used it so I don't really know its capabilities.
So, this was all done in Blender. Blender's sculpting tools aren't the greatest, but I'm slowly getting to grips with what I can and can't expect to do with them. The key seems to be to make sure I'm working with a bajillion tris, and then simplify later.
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I re-scaled the Voroshilovets tractor to 1:285 scale and put it up on Shapeways as a single model, and as a sprue of four vehicles.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-chZ8MPjl5H0/V3IA2L7EecI/AAAAAAAAGlo/RQ7iLtx4WRwxNE67ND5Ce-094yYpjm3PwCLcB/s1600/voroshilovetz_6mm4up.jpg)
This one has been a lot more difficult than I expected, but I think I've cracked the canvas tilt at long last. It could certainly be improved, but it looks a lot better than my first attempts. Unfortunately, it also massively inflates the file size, but que sera sera.
The 4-up sprue is at http://shpws.me/MmS9 (http://shpws.me/MmS9), the single vehicle model is at http://shpws.me/MmSD (http://shpws.me/MmSD).
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On request, I've re-scaled the model of the Burford-Kegresse up to 1/56 for the 28mm crowd. It gets a bit pricey at the larger scale ($47.50), but there it is. You can get hold of it at http://shpws.me/Mukj (http://shpws.me/Mukj)
(https://images2.sw-cdn.net/product/picture/625x465_15210396_9044740_1469765433.jpg)
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Oh that is way cool. So very interwar!
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AmGOmAob1c4/V57FkSPkBsI/AAAAAAAAGx4/6_8p9v4j01oW5Q_18UM7PdPHtGZDUOgDwCLcB/s1600/VickersMediumIIstar.jpg)
I've modified my 3d-printed 1/100 scale (15mm) Vickers Medium Mk.II to the Mk.II* with turret bustle and enhanced ventilation for tropical deployment — e.g. India or Egypt.
It's available now at http://shpws.me/MuYJ (http://shpws.me/MuYJ)
I've only recently learned that the Italian WWII 47mm anti-tank gun was pretty much a straight copy of the 3pdr used in many interwar British tanks. That's handy, because while accuracy and penetration data is readily available for the Italian version, there's not a hell of a lot available for the 3pdr. In short... compared with the 40mm 2pdr, it really sucked.
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A really nice-looking and crisp model there Fitz! :)
The Italian Cannone da 47/32 was a licence-built copy of the Austrian Böhler 4.7cm M.35, while the OQF 3 pdr was a Vickers design based on the older OQF Naval 3 pdr, but with a much smaller propellant charge; different heritages, but similar performance.
The comparative penetration depths for the 3pdr compared to the 47/32 were apparently;
3 pdr L23 (as fitted to the Vickers 6 ton): APHE - 27mm, AP/T (1937) - 40mm
3 pdr L31: APHE - 36mm, AP/T (1937) - 54mm
3 pdr L41: APHE - 48mm, AP/T (1937) - 72mm
47/32 (M.35 AP): 43-58mm (500m>100m) - so roughly comparable with the 3 pdr L31 by 1937.
In comparison the .50 Vickers, .50 Boys and the 15mm BESA had a penetration within a range of 25-30mm. The same source gives 84mm for the 2 pdr and 54mm for the 25mm Hotchkiss. No distances were given for the British guns, but preferred engagement ranges before the end of the '30s were within the 100 to 500 yard distance from what I've read elsewhere, so I imagine the data would be recorded from tests within these distances.
While these ranges and penetration data seem paltry in comparison to WWII, bear in mind that most vehicles before the Mid-'30s typically only had 12-14mm of armour to make them 'bullet and shell fragment proof'; the up-graded Renault FT was still considered a 'beast' with 22mm on its front.
The Late '30s saw up-armoured vehicles (S-35 and T-34 with 45-47mm armour, and the Panzer IIID and A-13, both with 30mm), but with the 2 pdr and 47mm APX guns coming into service at the same time, not only were they more than adequate to defeat these vehicles, the theoretical engagement range was also being extended out to 800-1,000m.
/nerd. ;)
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Thanks for that; that's useful information :)
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fjnRTPt5MqQ/V7JhVP67YAI/AAAAAAAAG4o/bxwA36icockQRXy9JyzMfNypdOVkeICIwCLcB/s1600/BurfordKegresse6mm.jpg)
I've redesigned my model of the Burford-Kegresse MG carrier in 1/285 scale, and for the first time I've made an attempt at including some human beings.
How much of this detail will be visible in the 3d prints, I'm not sure. The model is only about 19mm long, which is not very big at all, but FUD and FED resin can render some surprisingly fine detail if the stars are right.
It's available as a single model at http://shpws.me/MzEE (http://shpws.me/MzEE) or as a much more cost-effective sprue of five at http://shpws.me/MzFZ (http://shpws.me/MzFZ)
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nice
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Hey Fitz,
Lovely looking Vickers Medium Mk.II.
This vehicle is the exact type the Brits would have in the '36 Abyssinian Crisis...any chance you can upscale that to 1/56 for prospective customers?
I actually have two Copplestone's already but others might not and these are the correct interwar vehicles to have.
https://abyssiniancrisis.wordpress.com/tag/coc-army-lists-british/
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=81814.0
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Lovely looking Vickers Medium Mk.II ...any chance you can upscale that to 1/56 for prospective customers?
Yes, it's available at http://shpws.me/MCZY (http://shpws.me/MCZY), but even in WSF it's $US62.00 so the Copplestone resin version is quite a bit cheaper. In FUD it's unbelievably expensive — $250! The cost of high-resolution 3d printing cannot come down to fast to suit me.
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Yes, it's available at http://shpws.me/MCZY (http://shpws.me/MCZY), but even in WSF it's $US62.00 so the Copplestone resin version is quite a bit cheaper. In FUD it's unbelievably expensive — $250! The cost of high-resolution 3d printing cannot come down to fast to suit me.
You know I might be able to print that at a lower price with a better finish, (depending on where I can place my supports) on my SLA printer.
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There were two tanks in particular that I couldn't get hold of in 15mm that spurred me into trying my hand at digital 3d design. One was the Vickers Medium Mk.III, which I made my very first Blender project. The other was this one, the A1E1 Independent.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--st-Oro0Afg/V85NazY2mgI/AAAAAAAAG_U/HMlfq_pRHWkpy13vICs5Pyan4ypUs36IwCLcB/s1600/independentShapewaysWSF.jpg)
This is Shapeways' WSF material render, with all the turrets on sprues.
The model is available now at http://shpws.me/MERL (http://shpws.me/MERL)
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(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f1DyNA_yFiA/V-ZCd-eS5lI/AAAAAAAAHEQ/sVDnfIxypEYv3G60rK0JF4Y7umImwrVLQCLcB/s1600/PeerlessArmouredCar.jpg)
My next 3d-printed model is the Peerless armoured car, of 1919. I saw the chap from the Bovington museum's "Tank Chats" on Youtube talking about it, and thought "What's that? A terrible, ill-conceived interwar armoured vehicle? I must make a model of it!" So I did.
It's available in 1:100 (15mm) scale at http://shpws.me/MIvy (http://shpws.me/MIvy)
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lshMQiBsh58/V-bY2eT1xgI/AAAAAAAAHEo/vuChZ76J4_Qdno50pDnbzK3ldcondhC-wCLcB/s1600/PeerlessArmouredCar6mm.jpg)(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bGNk7ZVt8i8/V-cEu0D3OXI/AAAAAAAAHE4/bIyBrnyymW0KLvin6-DZeQ56VyOMSJ3ogCLcB/s1600/PeerlessArmouredCar6mm5up.jpg)
The Peerless is available now in 1:285 scale. The single model is at http://shpws.me/MIwP (http://shpws.me/MIwP) and the five-up sprue is at http://shpws.me/MIGS (http://shpws.me/MIGS).
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5g-aAYI-ch8/V_azDuLNBkI/AAAAAAAAHH8/rbvPnKaCsHwwTqXiD3tCp2XtiesvYEQrQCLcB/s1600/vickersMkIIIrunningGear28mm.jpg)
In response to a request, I've uploaded a model of just the running gear for the Vickers Light Tank Mk.III in 1/56 scale.
It's at http://shpws.me/MM73 (http://shpws.me/MM73)
Hopefully this will help people with some conversions of various interwar vehicles. The running gear is usually the trickiest part of any scratch-building project.
I've made it available in WSF and FUD/FED. The WSF is cheaper, but the FED would look a lot better next to styrene or resin components. WSF is fine for tabletop use, but its granular texture isn't that great for fine scale modeling.
On a related note: does anyone have any scale drawings of the Vickers Dutchman? Even pretty basic drawings would be fine, as long as I can get the sizes and proportions of the major hull and turret elements from them. Surface details and what-not are easier then to estimate from photographs; they can be sized by eye to fit with known components.
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Oooh! Now that's a great idea - useful for all sorts of crazy scratchbuilds.
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He's right you know, Shoot me a PM if you want.
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I've started work on a Vickers Dutchman — working from various photographs rather than from drawings, so absolute accuracy is not guaranteed. There are some pretty good photos available though, so I think I can get something that looks the part.
This is the 15mm version; other scales will almost certainly follow when I get the basic forms right.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33836019/VickersDutchman01.jpg)
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZdrU3awTzP0/V_mmP2Gl9-I/AAAAAAAAHI8/tPf2E5NhfeITa-vRQdFNPYM0fDGz2wXkwCLcB/s1600/dutchmanWSF.jpg)
I've uploaded a model of the Vickers Commercial "Dutchman" of 1936, in 1/100 scale for 15mm gaming.
It wasn't taken up by the British army (a very short-sighted decision) but it was sold extensively around the world, especially to the Dutch East Indies, hence its nickname of "Dutchman".
It's available at http://shpws.me/MMB1 (http://shpws.me/MMB1)
I've made it available in WSF, but because of issues with the running gear and exhaust, I can't guarantee that it will print in that material. The default material is FUD resin, and it should be fine in that.
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The British army did have 10 in Egypt in 1940, which was handed over to the Greek army in early 1941.
David
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The British army did have 10 in Egypt in 1940, which was handed over to the Greek army in early 1941.
David
They were commandeered for training purposes after war broke out, they were never adopted for general service.
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They were used in action by the Greek fighting the Germans in 1941
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I believe that they were sent from the UK to Greece, not the Middle East, but indeed they were 'Dutchmen'.
There are photos of a park for captured vehicles in Greece and amongst the Bren Carriers (that apparently bear the Greek insignia for their 19th Division) are a number of Vickers Lights (seemingly still in their British paint and markings). One has its census number visible T16680.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/torpy/Vickers1.jpg)
Numbers T16658-T16706 were assigned to the 48 IIIB 'Dutchmen' taken into service by the British Army as training tanks. A minuted meeting of November 1940 has Churchill assenting to ten 'light tanks used for training' (amongst other items) being transferred to the Greek Army.
/nerd
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There is pictures of the same tanks in Egypt in 1940, which were used for training.
The British forces and equipment came from Egypt in 1941 to Greece.
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I've seen a photo of an Australian 'Mk. III' in the desert Caunter-pattern camo, and indeed 36 'Mk.III' were apparently sent from Britain to the Middle East for training, but I've never seen a photo of a 'Mk. IIIB Dutchman' in Egypt. That does not of course mean that there weren't any there.
Naturally everything also 'came from Egypt', as it was proving impossible to sail anything past Malta in Early 1941; everything was going round Africa and through the Suez Canal. Nevertheless Wavell himself was short of all the things that were being requested for Greece; that was partly his beef with Churchill during and after Op Compass.
However that's not so important as the point that the 'Dutchman' was used as a training tank in the UK and that it was also sold to the Greek Army and used in action.
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I've re-scaled my model of the Vickers "Dutchman" to 1/56th (28mm). It's available at http://shpws.me/MVy4 (http://shpws.me/MVy4).
Modifications mainly involved re-doing all the rivets so they'd look a bit less like basketballs in the larger scale. It's based on the example at Bovington, though I've only ever seen it via photographs, since I live about as far away from Bovington as it's possible to get and still be on the same planet.
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Acetone has no effect on it at all. It's a sintered nylon material, and I've yet to find an effective solvent for it.
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/
Tried it on WSF airplanes and it really works? But boy does it smell!
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2h0xhmFjuV4/WLAJ-JEKq9I/AAAAAAAAHsY/AkcY8qeu1-UtN1kAyVCGPfxNizDw3CC_gCLcB/s1600/VickersMediumMkIIstar28mm.jpg)
I've re-scaled my model of the Vickers Medium Mk.II*, with improved ventilation for tropical deployment, to 1:56 scale (28mm).
It's available for purchase at https://www.shapeways.com/product/GP357MR84/vickers-medium-mkii-28mm (https://www.shapeways.com/product/GP357MR84/vickers-medium-mkii-28mm)
Shapeways gets a bit pricey at this size, even in WSF nylon. I don't know how this price compares with resin casts in comparable scales.