Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Fantasy Adventures => Frostgrave => Topic started by: Jennifer on February 06, 2016, 05:19:04 AM
-
Hello I am brand new here. My name is Jennifer. This looks like an absolutely delightful forum!
I've been working on some Frostgrave stuff -- exclusively as of late. I am totally new to crafting, wargaming & painting miniatures (as of the past year).
Well I'll start replying to this thread with terrain & miniature pieces now. :)
-
Mausoleum
Entirely of cardboard, chipboard, sand, white glue, hot glue & bbq skewers.
I need to give someone credit now. I copied much of the following gentleman's design:
http://thelostandtheverydamned.blogspot.com/2015/12/frostgrave-dungeon-tiles-mausoleum.html
However, the pillars were my own creation from a technique I developed (not saying it hasn't been done before but I personally haven't seen it), made from partially separated corrugated cardboard, with each corrugation rail filled with bbq skewers (adhered with white/pva glue).
Here it is:
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/2s7i3k6.jpg)
The crafting of this starts here in my dmscraft crafting thread:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48639/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48639/thread)
I still need to cap it with a dome or the like.
-
The Haunted Houses scenario calls for roofless stone huts, so my personal interpretation of this means "Stone Hut Ruins".
I will be making a total of six stone hut ruins in various states of ruin -- some mostly or fully intact (without roofs still).
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/de5ppy.jpg)
The bricks were hand shaped using both sets of thumbs and index fingers, made of toilet paper mache. See my crafting thread for details on the recipe and how I did this (it's my own personal technique I developed -- not saying others haven't done it before though): http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/49009/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/49009/thread)
-
Ledge Ruins w Two Staircases
I need some ruins, so this is a start. I copied it from Meph on dmscraft.proboards.com -- thank you Meph! Also copied it from http://xinslair.blogspot.com/2015/11/frostgrave-8-player-battle-report_12.html
But I used 1/2 inch rigid foam insulation instead of 1 inch (except for the stairs).
Note: miniatures aren't too scale, these are pretty big at around 32mm instead of 25-28mm.
(http://i.imgur.com/7xGMV5p.jpg)
-
By the way the gaming mat in the previous post is made of heavy canvas ($11.99 a yard but $6 a yard with daily coupon from Hanncock's Fabric)--each yard is 60 inches wide btw.
I painted it first with a Heavy coat of espresso (almost black) brown, to seal all the threads together. Unfolds very nicely & flat and looks a tad three dimensional due to hand stippling of medium gray then white acrylic paint over the dark paint.
EDIT: If you decide to make one of these make sure to leave at least a couple extra inches along all the borders because when the first/base coat of acrylic paint dries it wrinkles up the edges -- which you can then cut off clean after drying and have a nice flat border. If for some reason after that a corner is lifting a little as it continues to dry even more, weigh it down with a book or something so it dries flat. For the stippling of the white snow, I used a wall trim paint brush -- about a 1 inch wide brush by 3/4 inch.
Details in my dmscraft crafting thread: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48598/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48598/thread) and here http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/47656/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/47656/thread)
My game mat is about 33 inches by 38 inches, to accommodate my kitchen table; my table not wide enough for 36" so made the other dimension 2 inches longer -- I hope this is okay? (I have yet to play Frostgrave).
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/ngt4jc.jpg)
-
Giant Frost Worm
Going to make four of these. They were made with foil framework, Mc'Donald's napkins & white glue paper mache, toilet paper mache, Liquitex Modeling Paste for the rings, toothpicks for the teeth (thanks DMScotty). Index card stock, avery permanent glue stick, circle punch/die, construction sand & acrylic paint for base.
Reaper paints for the blue: MSP HD Tropical Blue. Cheap craft paints for the white dry brushing and mouth.
The saliva/drool was my own creation by experimenting with hot glue running off edge of paper. I then clip off a nice looking one and hot glue to a dot of hot glue on the mouth.
I varnished the teeth with glossy wood varnish. Painted teeth with reaper "Dirty Bone" paint.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/357qaly.jpg)
Crafting details start here: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48698/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48698/thread)
Three more patiently waiting to be finished and get into the ground (these three are about 90% toilet paper mache, except for the initial paper layer). Did these in three layers and let dry a few days before each layer.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/14n3hgn.jpg)
-
Well of Dreams & Sorrows
I copied a lot of the design of this from: http://oi66.tinypic.com/2se1u.jpg (http://oi66.tinypic.com/2se1u.jpg)
I made it modular though with laminated color laser prints. The well donut comes out and the paper sits underneath it.
Here is the Well of Dreams and Sorrows:
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/5kjekn.jpg)
An example of it's modularity: Well of Blood & Tears
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/9gjyhy.jpg)
or how about a laminated color laser printout of a portal you get to jump into! :)
or recently as a town statue stand (got the ceramic statue from flea market for $1 and painted):
(https://boardgamegeek.com/camo/4606f9eb4fca3ba7e4e3e93bf5a9638aecb6912f/687474703a2f2f6f6936342e74696e797069632e636f6d2f366976676e382e6a7067)
Still need to make short pillar plinths for the smaller constructs in the photo above. I think I'll create a Frostgrave scenario where that statue comes to life along with it's smaller construct minions around it.. so you have to battle both the large statue and each of the minions she randomly activates in turn -- both parties have to team up to survive this else they both die -- after they kill her then can resume to collect treasure chests and kill each other lol.. just an idea.
Crafting details start here: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48350/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48350/thread)
-
Looks like a great start. You are clearly very creative. I like the worm but especially like the gaming mat - simple but very effective.
-
Your scenery is great. Keep doing it so well.
-
Very inspiring. It is always nice to see what one can do with simple materials. Keep it up!
-
Welcome to the forum. It all looks great. Thanks for sharing. I particularly like the added detail of the saliva on the worm
-
Welcome to the LAF! Looking at the terrain you've made I wouldn't guess that you're a newcomer to the hobby. It looks very good!
-
Totally new and booking these results... Very nice! Krep it up and kee showing us your wonderful work.
-
Great start, I especially like the multiple use of the well!
-
Holly cow! Now that's an entrance. Love the scenery. I'm going to copy some of those ideas.
Justin
-
I am loving that statue!
-
very nice and creative!
I might have to get some stuff and make a nice big well also, cant seem to find one I like!
-
Great stuff. Love the scenery ... especially the town statue. The worms are brilliant.
Really like the gaming mat.
If I might offer a suggestion.... You could just catch the edges of the scenery pecs with the lightest dry brush with a pure white highlight...it makes it look really frosty and will tie it in to the gaming mat nicley. Just a thought.
-
Really love the mat, the statue and all the rest. And I found the well with options for laser printed inlays was very clever.
-
Welcome to the LAF! Lovely scenery and I'm enjoying reading your thread on the DMs Craft . Going to copy the huts; I really like those. Maybe the well, mat, and statue also.
Looking forward to your next creation.
-
Welcome Jennifer, glad to see you made your way over here too.
Meph btw =)
-
Very nice work!
(Oh, and welcome!)
-
Really liking the DIY approach to everything. The worms are inspired, some more detailed instructions would, I am sure, be appreciated by all!
-
Thanks for all the nice complements.
Regarding the highlights of the terrain, for now I am just making sure they all match with their base coat and "mid lights".
There have been a couple reasons why I was holding off on the highlights. One is that I need to perfect it, because the last couple times I did it, I overdid it. The other reason is, I want to figure out what shade of highlights I want because I want the terrain to look nice with Frostgrave, but yet be used without wonder/issue in a non frost setting (e.g. a summer in the woods).
If anyone has any crafting questions of anything I build I'll be glad to share it. There are a lot of details in my crafting thread on dmscraft.proboards.com that I haven't typed in here on this forum. I give a cross-reference links in each of the projects I mentioned above.
Hi Grenlar/Meph! :)
-
Working on toilet paper mache brick fence (will be gated) for my playable dice tower terrain:
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/11b7rc3.jpg)
I still need to add merlons to the tower and another row of paper mache bricks to the fence.
Crafting details here:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/49419/thread
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/48469/thread
-
Done with the dice tower. There will be a big shield logo or flag hanging in the front of the tower. I might add a window or two at a later date.
There will be a few matching stair extenders sitting down on the ground next to the tower, so the stairs will be fully playable/usable. (Each extender will be 1/2" x 1/2" x 1".)
Dice tower was made of cedar fence picket, 3.5" wide pine wood paneling for slats. Dollar Tree foam board for the tower walls. 1" rigid insulation for stairs. 1/2" rigid insulation for battlement.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/wraxsl.jpg)
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/2dkxy4h.jpg)
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/2a9czso.jpg)
-
Decided to kick my toilet paper mache masonry up a notch: working on a Witchfate-Tor-Like structure; door form will pop out after drying. Still need to make some window forms as well.
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/348hzme.jpg)
Crafting details here:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/49448/thread
-
Great work! I had never seen that DM's Craft board before. I've never made any terrain before so this website looks like a treasure trove of ideas. Thanks for posting and great looking stuff. Love that Statue
-
Awesome work Jen.
-
Stone Hut Ruins
5 down, 1 more to go. Love toilet paper mache.
The two unpainted minions are reaper 25mm and the ruins are tall enough to shield their heads from all spells and fire. The other painted minions are 30-35mm (oversized) .. which I won't really be using much in Frostgrave.
Estimated total cost including white glue, toilet paper, acrylic paint is around $3 for a set of six. Total time doing masonry per hut is about 30 minutes I say. And about 7 minutes painting per hut.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/309u9ft.jpg)
-
I love these how do you make the mache?
-
I love these how do you make the mache?
Thanks a bunch! :) Crafting info starts here:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/49009/thread
That's my general crafting thread on dmscraft.proboards.com . It talks about the huts at that link I gave above, then goes on to somethign else.. and then back to the huts again. I go from unfinished project to unfinished project in that thread, ultimately finishing everything and sharing the finished product in random order.
-
Thx a lot, I'm gonna make a bunch of terrain with this methoid. I'll post my results when I have them :-)
-
I've been experimenting with papier mache to make a hard, mouldable surface over a softer structure but your method with the bricks is inspired. Will have to give it a go. Fascinating thread, please keep posting.
-
Thx a lot, I'm gonna make a bunch of terrain with this methoid. I'll post my results when I have them :-)
Awesome! I look forward to seeing your pieces, and getting ideas from you to further improve my toilet paper mache masonry :)
-
I've been experimenting with papier mache to make a hard, mouldable surface over a softer structure but your method with the bricks is inspired. Will have to give it a go. Fascinating thread, please keep posting.
Thanks for the complements. Can you please describe more about what you are talking about with mouldable surfaces over softer structure, etc.. -- interested.
I have been wanting to try to use this toilet paper mache inside a mould. I'd like to try it and let it dry in a mold for a day then pop it out and see what happens. I know it'd shrink a bit. But I do know it would be rock hard after it dries a couple days. (Well it takes up to 5 days to dry if pieces are thicker -- unless I use a heat lamp or fan or whatever).
-
Thx a lot, I'm gonna make a bunch of terrain with this methoid. I'll post my results when I have them :-)
Just keep in mind that it shrinks a bit after it dries so it will break apart in places and there will be gaps. But this has not been an issue for me at all since I just break it apart in chunks and hot glue together where needed. I also fill if needed with more TP mache, sand, modeling paste, and/or sand & white glue (etc.).
-
Finished the Dice Tower Yard. Need to make a gate that open and closes and securely stays closed so when dice hit it, it doesn't pop open. Any suggestions?
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2hz4a42.jpg)
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/49623/thread
-
Portcullis or drawbridge. Either sliding in place on some U beams [-------------], or held in place with magnets perhaps?
-
Some great terrain, I love the statue!
-
Very inventive and original stuff I'm seeing in this thread !
The battlemat made from canvas is a great idea for a portable game area.
-
Got my $300 Monoprice 3D printer today. This is the first miniature I've printed (from Thingiverse.com under "Garden Toad"). I scaled down to 40mm for use as an Ice Toad in Frostgrave.
Excuse my amateur paint job -- new to the hobby.
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/330vjme.jpg)
-
Printed and painted another ice toad (cost for each frog is just under 20 cents a piece in plastic filament)
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2dhfn0o.jpg)
-
Ooh I like those toads - they have a creepy 'oh good, here comes dinner' kind of smile.
-
Impressive and welcome to the club!!!!
-
Toilet Paper Mache Tower is coming along. Just popped out the door and window forms I made from 1/2" rigid insulation:
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/wlvyip.jpg)
Also cleaned up the area to the top left of the window since that photo was taken -- looks much better now. (Cleaned up with pocket knife and awl--for etching.)
Really liking handmaking stuff with toilet paper mache masonry. Gives it a 100% unique, organic look and cannot be broken by dropping off table.
-
This is awesome , stealing your technique lol
-
I'll work on some shadow detail with a brush and black wash.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/281a4h4.jpg)
-
Downloaded Blender software (first time I've ever used it was today).
Watched this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgt-hGAscwk
In one hour I designed and sculpted this:
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/yjbxi.jpg)
and just finished 3D printing it on my 3D printer I got a couple days ago:
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/o5n68j.jpg)
Weight of tile is 20 grams, so just under 50 cents to print. It's a 2.5" x 2.5" tile with 30% infill -- printed in hi-res mode (.1mm layers).
-
Here it is painted (what was printed above):
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/15x6ra.jpg)
-
I soooo want a 3d printer. Hmmm maybe I can sell a kidney....
Looks awesome. Can you go into more detail about your Toilet paper stone?
Oh and which printer did you get?
Xin
-
I soooo want a 3d printer. Hmmm maybe I can sell a kidney....
Looks awesome. Can you go into more detail about your Toilet paper stone?
Oh and which printer did you get?
Xin
Check out my crafting blog link on the first page of this thread (under stone huts). There is a link that goes into the TP mache in detail.
I got the $300 one from Monoprice.com. Check out this thread about that: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/3621/print-me-army
-
Very creative! High marks all around. I hope you will continue to post your work here!
-
Thanks for the complements :)
I am really happy about my latest accomplishment. I just started using 3D rendering software and am getting better at sculpting a gaming tile.
Here it is. (MY goal is to make 8 to 16 unique tiles like the following that I can use in various combinations/configurations in 2x2, 3x3, to 6x6 tiles.) Then 3D print them and paint them for use in Frostgrave, D&D etc..
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/rwkxeh.jpg)
-
You may be jealous of my painting skills, but trust me... I am just as jealous of your expert crafting and (3D) modeling skills. This is really cool!
Do you have any idea of the approximate cost per tile? There are plenty of companies out there selling 3D dungeon tiles, and while not even really that expensive, it does add up if you want a large enough dungeon.
-
You may be jealous of my painting skills, but trust me... I am just as jealous of your expert crafting and (3D) modeling skills. This is really cool!
Do you have any idea of the approximate cost per tile? There are plenty of companies out there selling 3D dungeon tiles, and while not even really that expensive, it does add up if you want a large enough dungeon.
Thanks for the complements.
To print a 2 x 2 tile with a 1/4" thick base, and like 1/8" thick tiles sitting on that base.. it's around 35 cents a tile. Corner wall tiles are about 85 cents and wall tiles somewhere inbetween. Now these are for tall corners and walls. If you only want short height walls (like I am gonna model for myself), it'd be less than prices just mentioned. (But maybe I might just go with the taller walls -- e.g. dwarven forge, openforge style.)
-
This is great and thanks for the how to.
-
Lovely scenery, jennifer!
However, although i'm a big supporter (and user) of 3D for scenery, i think that for rocks there are better techniques to achieve that result. You can start with a piece of plaster and carve the rocks out, or even mold some pieces of styrene to form the rocks... in any case, you'll get a more realistic look with lesser effort.
Some examples on my facebook page: i'd link my site but - for now- it's still down. :(
https://www.facebook.com/thelazyforger/posts/948252065223715
(http://i65.tinypic.com/33z927m.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/iejqds.jpg)
-
Lovely scenery, jennifer!
However, although i'm a big supporter (and user) of 3D for scenery, i think that for rocks there are better techniques to achieve that result. You can start with a piece of plaster and carve the rocks out, or even mold some pieces of styrene to form the rocks... in any case, you'll get a more realistic look with lesser effort.
Some examples on my facebook page: i'd link my site but - for now- it's still down. :(
https://www.facebook.com/thelazyforger/posts/948252065223715
(http://i65.tinypic.com/33z927m.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/iejqds.jpg)
Gorgeous work thank you!
-
Gorgeous work thank you!
i'm sorry i don't have all my tutorials available on my site right now (since it's down), but it's a rather simple process: carving, hard brush, metal brush, hard brush again. :)
-
Inactive Portals:
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/10ephxw.jpg)
Active Portals:
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/20zxu0x.jpg)
-
Wow! :o
-
Wow ... as well!
I'd love to know more about these. Excellent work. = )
Is this more of your Paper Mache work?
-
Is this more of your Paper Mache work?
Yap! Here's a link to it all:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/3649/magic-circle-portals-4
-
Brilliant idea!!
-
While I am generally like all the stuff you make, I am really impressed that you cooked up that 3D model in an hour.
Nice job. i bought the DragonLock(kickstarter/Drive Thru RPG) - have the same look about it.
...Troels
-
While I am generally like all the stuff you make, I am really impressed that you cooked up that 3D model in an hour.
Nice job. i bought the DragonLock(kickstarter/Drive Thru RPG) - have the same look about it.
...Troels
Thanks I made much better now: )
See this thread:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/3665/hand-sculpted-dungeon-using-blender
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/6f9tso.jpg)
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/20rmsqw.jpg)
Here it is compared to the cork/printed hybrid to the left and the OpenForge 3D printed tile to the right:
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/1zntyc5.jpg)
Working on printing a mold now so I can try and make one the above handsculpted (in Blender) with TP mache (or with water putty if it releases and/or shrinks well).
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/fwstmp.jpg)
-
Those portals are terrific! Wow
-
Toilet Paper Mache Cast Dungeon Tile
Info: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/50126/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/50126/thread)
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/slqikg.jpg)
-
The blue/white portal seems to be positively glowing. Great work.
-
This thread is just full of inspiration. Thanks for sharing
-
Again thanks for all the nice complements guys.
Here is a Djinni I printed out on my 3D printer and painted. I still need to finish his sword and work on the swirly air effect more (needs some dark shadows within or something).
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/10yorw4.jpg)
-
Some great stuff here
-
I'd not thought of paper mache for the terrain but might give it a shot for the ruined huts. Thanks for the ideas and tips.
-
Saw a very nice plinth on the forums here and decided to design it in Sketchup and Blender, and then print on my $300 3D printer.
The thread that inspired me:
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=87575.0
A brave knight enters the room and notices a tall statue (on a gorgeous looking plinth) off in the dark corner.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2pq2nvr.jpg)
Uh oh! He's disturbed things.. Gahh.. The statue starts creaking and crackling, dust filling the air; the statue then makes it way off its plinth, towards the now frightened knight:
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2gt6t14.jpg)
Feel free to download this plinth for free and print on your 3D printer!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1368675
Link to my crafting thread about this:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/50862/thread
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/50899/thread
-
Downloaded an Arcane Gateway from Thingiverse and printed it on my 3D printer.
I still need to print out the translucent swirly portal piece -- transparent pla filament on order.
It cost me around a dollar or so in filament to print.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/n1r0hy.jpg)
-
Very nice. This 3D printing malarkey seems to be the way forward.
-
Looks awesome! I think that I must consider to put a 3Dprinter on my wish list!
-
Here's a question, Jennifer. Does your printer constantly print a build platform?
I went in on a printer with my uncle, and I'm getting irritated by the constant build platform that's throwing off multipart models. If you know how to disable it, it'd be great to know.
Also, I'm gonna be using those plinths. They look great.
-
Thanks for the complements guys. :)
Here's a question, Jennifer. Does your printer constantly print a build platform?
I went in on a printer with my uncle, and I'm getting irritated by the constant build platform that's throwing off multipart models. If you know how to disable it, it'd be great to know.
Also, I'm gonna be using those plinths. They look great.
Oh the rafts? You need them I believe. I am new to 3D printing.. I just take em off with metal hell's kitchen spatula and toss em in the trash. Didn't notice them messing up scale -- maybe you can elaborate.
Thanks for the complement on the plinths. Glad you can use em :)
-
Oh the rafts? You need them I believe. I am new to 3D printing.. I just take em off with metal hell's kitchen spatula and toss em in the trash. Didn't notice them messing up scale -- maybe you can elaborate.
It's not the scale, it's more, well. There's an extra chunk of plastic where there shouldn't be, on the bottom. Since I've been trying to print some multi-part figures, well....
I guess I'll settle myself to filing it down. Ah well.
-
It's not the scale, it's more, well. There's an extra chunk of plastic where there shouldn't be, on the bottom. Since I've been trying to print some multi-part figures, well....
I guess I'll settle myself to filing it down. Ah well.
What printer do you have, what software are you using and what printer driver?
-
Love your work with the paper mâché in particular, with scratchbuilds you can always achieve a greater surface texture I believe than with any casting or printing (although I'm very impressed by your 3d printed archway). Get yourself some extruded polystyrene sheets -used for underfloor heating and some foamcard, they're my favourite materials for building floors and buildings.
I'm going to try some paper mâché next though, very inspiring and creative work! Thanks for sharing.
-
Love your work with the paper mâché in particular, with scratchbuilds you can always achieve a greater surface texture I believe than with any casting or printing (although I'm very impressed by your 3d printed archway). Get yourself some extruded polystyrene sheets -used for underfloor heating and some foamcard, they're my favourite materials for building floors and buildings.
I'm going to try some paper mâché next though, very inspiring and creative work! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your complements. Your work is so breathtaking.
foamcard? is that foam board? I use that. I buy the dollar tree foam board, the paper peels off easily.
I use a lot of 1" thick and 1/2" thick pink rigid insulation as well. Not familiar with this polystyrene sheets for under the flloor.
I built the following dice tower with fence picket, wall panel, foam board (adhered to wood and textured), 1/2" thick rigid insulation (for the ruined battlement), 1" thick rigid insulation (for the stairs), more foam board (cobblestone) and paper mache for fence. I'll probably 3D print a functioning gate to round it off :)
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2hz4a42.jpg)
-
Welcome to the party Jennifer o_oThis awesome stuff! Incredible really :o The guy who turned you on to Frostgrave must be proud lol
Sleepy Hollow mike BTW :D
-
Welcome to the party Jennifer o_oThis awesome stuff! Incredible really :o The guy who turned you on to Frostgrave must be proud lol
Sleepy Hollow mike BTW :D
Lol hey Mike :) Yeah, thanks for the addiction! :) You had such incredible terrain it caught my attention :)
-
Castle Ruins -- Front
I built this as a dual purpose DM Scotty "Tilescapes Front" (for DnD) and as a standalone wargaming ruins piece.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/29cxky8.jpg)
Crafting details:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51188/thread
Many more ruin pieces to build for Frostgrave! The Keep scenario is demanding! :)
-
For someone new to the hobby that is a very impressive start!!
You are right about this forum. It seems to attract the right people. I dont think there are any trolls, flamers or haters on it and the discussions are nice and mature.
Also there is always someone who has the right answer when you are looking for tips and tricks to do something.
-
Another excellent piece, and I agree about the Forum.
It certainly seems 3D printers are making a big impact in our little wargaming scene. To think I laughed at my buddy when he told me 12 months ago that within a year they'd be cheap enough to be home-based like a PC.
-
Working on a couple dozen or so bookshelves for "The Library" scenario.
Here's my first test one -- future ones will having nice wood grain as well as the top piece of wood reaching edge to edge concealing the currently visible side boards:
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/33wqw7m.jpg)
Crafting details:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51238/thread
-
Bookshelves -- Take Two
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/9g9ht4.jpg)
crafting details:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51268/thread
-
Nice!
-
Big difference between 1 and 2. Great work
-
Fantastic work. Definitely rekindling my enthusiasm in terrain building.
Keep up the good work. = )
-
So many bookcases to craft! Then the books & scrolls! :)
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/x3bxgh.jpg)
-
How did you do the books? Paper sleeves over balsa wood? Then painted?
-
I have this tutorial for miniature-sized books saved in my bookmarks:
http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.it/2010/09/how-to-create-old-books.html
Btw, great stuff, Jennifer. I think I'll make myself a copy of the ruins with stairs on page 1 :)
-
Here's 12 bookcases almost completed. I'll be gluing most of them together in back to back pairs to form aisles. I figure I need at least 36 of them. Thank goodness popsicle sticks are only $1 at the dollar tree.
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51332/thread
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2h2ox2x.jpg)
-
How did you do the books? Paper sleeves over balsa wood? Then painted?
I used colored cardstock I had here -- I make handmade greeting cards; no painting except for accents (below). You can buy packages of the cardstock (in many colors and textures) affordably at your local craft store -- make sure to bring coupon, here in the states they offer new coupons every day for up to 50% off.
I just cut a 4.25" by 1" wide strip of cardstock then glued that to the popsicle stick, bending it around.
Then I cut the papered popsicle stick with diagonal cutters.
Then I painted on accents with gold, silver & tan paints on the spines.
Really really fast and easy.
I am going to try using dollar tree foam core instead of popsicle sticks next because it will probably be easier to cut. Cutting the popsicle sticks causes some distortion but not too bad.
Here's the thread I used as a guide for making these books quickly:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/1928/speed-reading-open-closed-books
-
Thanks a lot (to both of you). Stashed away for when I make more scenery next week.
= )
-
Thick Book Variant
(Using Dollar Tree foam board instead of two popsicle sticks stacked -- easier to cut, nice texture).
Details here: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51334/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51334/thread)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/23vm3iq.jpg)
-
Wow you really are on a roll. Everything looks great. Thanks for sharing
-
Oh now you are just showing off!! Those are wonderful!
Do you do commission work?
-
Fantastic stuff.
I want to make some scenery now.
-
:o I can only concur with what's been said above!
-
Thanks for the complements.
Been working on some scrolls now too. I stained some 20lb white printer paper with a watered down Americana Cocoa and then a watered down Americana Burnt Umber. Let that dry under box fan for 30 mins.
Cut into 1/2" wide strips, crumpled.. then rolled up. I burnt the edges of a couple with a lighter.
Let me know what ya think. This is the first time I've made scrolls -- yesterday was the first time I made books :)
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/2dhh0tz.jpg)
-
Oh now you are just showing off!! Those are wonderful!
Do you do commission work?
Never been asked that question before :) It's a bit time consuming so I think it's enough work to just make for myself :) I am going to be super busy acquiring more minis, painting dozens of them, making more terrain.. and reading the rule book some more :) I'll play my first game of Frostgrave with my nephew in a couple months I guess.
The above bookcase is one of about 36 I want to make for the Grand Underground Library of Frostgrave :)
-
I am totally jealous! But in a good way.
-
I am totally jealous! But in a good way.
They are extremely easy to make :) The shelves, books and scrolls.
I am jealous (in a good way as well) of the minis you paint. I am totally new with minis and will be really painting my first with the Frostgrave soldiers, GBP Viking Hirdmen and GBP Dark Age Warriors I'll be getting in a few days. I can only hope mine would ever look as good as yours!
-
Just have to add my voice. Amazing work. You really have an eye for what will work as scenery.
-
I'm either gonna have to stop reading your threads @Jennifer ... or create a 27 hour day!
These are fantastic. I've got a load of 2mm x 50mm bases spare and I somehow have a feeling they are now going to become bookcases. I didn't need to sleep this month ... honest. lol
-
I'm either gonna have to stop reading your threads @Jennifer ... or create a 27 hour day!
These are fantastic. I've got a load of 2mm x 50mm bases spare and I somehow have a feeling they are now going to become bookcases. I didn't need to sleep this month ... honest. lol
I just used popsicle sticks for the bookcases (along with medium weight chipboard for the backs). I purchase 100 popsicle sticks for like one dollar (.75 quid).
-
Scroll Shelves
I have a vast library to build -- about 36 bookshelves. Of these 36, I want about a third of them to be "Scroll Shelves".
Using google image, I saw some cool photos of scroll storage on shelves. Scrolls were stored in cubbies (both rectangular and diamond). I decided to make some rectangular cubbies with a simple modification to my existing bookshelf design, by just adding a few pieces of popsicle sticks as separators. Here is a photo of it on the right.
(I have to finish the paint job on the scroll shelf -- all my shelves will look like the one on to the front left.)
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/3533yj4.jpg)
I'm extremely pleased with the result. It will make my library more interesting than just all books and scattered scrolls.
I intend on designing/sculpting a diamond cubbie scroll shelf in sketchup/blender and sharing it on thingiverse. It will use the same wood grain texture I use in my tavern tiles (which I also shared on thingiverse). The diamond cubbie scroll shelf will be designed to be the very same dimensions as my existing bookshelves as shown -- but one can easily scale the x,y,z dimensions to their liking w/ their printer software.
Some examples of what I saw on Google Image for this idea:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51456/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51456/thread).
-
Yeah, I'm gonna steal all of these ideas.
-
they still do. below is the UK house of parliament which still stores all laws and acts on Vellum scrolls
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4134/4823535284_f8084cf8d5_z.jpg)
yours looks very close to this, so well done :D
-
Yeah, I'm gonna steal all of these ideas.
Great! I love sharing them and stealing other people's ideas as well :)
-
they still do. below is the UK house of parliament which still stores all laws and acts on Vellum scrolls
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4134/4823535284_f8084cf8d5_z.jpg)
yours looks very close to this, so well done :D
That's awesome!
-
I absolutely love that scroll shelf!!!
-
Thank you Highest Wizard! :)
I am printing a diagonal cubby one now on my 3D printer. Designed it in blender using my existing wood grain in the tavern tile I made. Here is a screen shot of what is printing now. I want six of these diagonal scroll shelves, six of the rectangular scroll shelves, and 24 bookcases.
(I figured it'd be too much work to make six of these with popsicle sticks because of the complexity of the angles. Much easier to just design it in blender and print off six. Took about 30 minutes or so to design.)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2e32915.jpg)
-
Loaded Scroll Case
Lol, hand rolled over 50 scrolls. About 550 to go.
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/xgmexz.jpg)
-
Diamond Cubby Scroll Shelf
As I promised, here is the scroll case (with diamond shaped cubbies), that I designed in blender and printed.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/b9ipgp.jpg)
Gonna work out a couple small details on it and then make the STL available for download on thingiverse. Going to print six of these diamond ones, and craft 6 of the rectangular cubby ones. Lots of scrolls to craft!
EDIT: This diamond scroll shelf could also be used as a wine rack.
-
Scroll Rack -- Printed, Painted & Packed
Painted it and dry brushed it like I do my tavern tiles. So you can see the woodgrain texture. What do you think? Maybe I should only print the scroll racks and hand craft the bookcases & scroll shelves? The front of the board is flat where the popsicle sticks are rounded.
(Case on left is finished off with Americana Cocoa dry brush highlights, whereas case on right is finished off with Americana Golden Honey.. I like the one on the left better I think.. less red.. what do you think?)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/iofeb7.jpg)
-
Btw, great stuff, Jennifer. I think I'll make myself a copy of the ruins with stairs on page 1 :)
I copied Xintao on those ruins with stairs :)
-
Excellent shelves!!!! :o
-
Those shelves are cracking - great stuff!
-
They all look great. They fit in really nicely side by side, and the quality of both looks great. I'd say go with whichever method is the cheapest in both time and money for you
-
Lovely, lovely stuff in this thread Jennifer. The effort has certainly paid off.
-
Thank you guys for the wonderful complements. I really love this board and learning & getting ideas from you all.
I really look forward to some tips as I start painting minis -- total newb here.
-
Really nice stuff, bookshelves and scrolls are brilliant.
-
I'm either gonna have to stop reading your threads @Jennifer ... or create a 27 hour day!
Then i suggest you stay away from her posts over on DMScotty's site or you will have to go to a 30 hour day. :-)
Grimm
-
I'm starting to susupect that "Jennifer" is actually at least triplets, or possibly a
small large team of elite scenery makers out to depress the rest of us so much that we stop and they corner the market lol
It's the only possible explanation for the speed at which you go from "I had an idea" to "here it is painted". Either that or you've built a time machine (not unrealistic given what you're doing here) and just keep rewinding the clock.
Whichever it is, the stuff you're producing is amazing, and I'm more than a little scared of what the quality of your first figure is going to be like.
-
Any plans for double tiered shelves? Ladders on rails? Would look great
-
Any plans for double tiered shelves? Ladders on rails? Would look great
I thought the same thing. That would be really cool looking!
But right now I am just working on a set of 36 or so 2 inch tall shelves to form a maze within 2 foot by 2 foot underground library.
Keeping them low (just above LOS), allows for the players to reach in more easily and actually partially see what's going on in the maze :)
-
I'm starting to susupect that "Jennifer" is actually at least triplets, or possibly a small large team of elite scenery makers out to depress the rest of us so much that we stop and they corner the market lol
It's the only possible explanation for the speed at which you go from "I had an idea" to "here it is painted". Either that or you've built a time machine (not unrealistic given what you're doing here) and just keep rewinding the clock.
Whichever it is, the stuff you're producing is amazing, and I'm more than a little scared of what the quality of your first figure is going to be like.
Thank you for the complements. :) I know you were just kidding, but I really don't mean to depress anyone posting here. I am hoping to share fresh ideas, so y'all could benefit from them, just like I benefit from your fresh ideas. I wouldn't be anything without you all.. everything new I do is based on stuff I learn from each of you. I too am blown away by others terrain and minis here! :)
I am scared about the quality of the paint job on my first set of minis as well heh. I see such incredibly painted miniatures, I shake my head in disbelief. I know I'll never come close to that good of stuff but if I can make it look half as good I'll be happy. I really would like to learn how to be as good though.. but I am afraid I might not be artistic enough.
Btw, all I have been doing all day, every day for the past two months, is terrain and miniatures. So I have had a lot of time on my hands. So this explains a lot. I realize most of you guys have work etc.
-
Scrolls madness spotted . Wooh that looks brillant.
-
Finally a photo of the set of all three styles of library shelves, fully painted and loaded.
Which style scroll case do you like better? Diamond or square? For some variety, I was thinking about having both styles in the library in various locations. Should I do that or just stick with one style?
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/10zs93t.jpg)
-
They both looks very good. So I guess a mix of the two is your best option since it would be a shame to leave one of them apart.
-
I imagine it as a vast sprawling labyrinth of shelves and desks which would have grown as the owner's collection grew, so for me the more varied the better. They look fantastic
-
I imagine it as a vast sprawling labyrinth of shelves and desks which would have grown as the owner's collection grew, so for me the more varied the better. They look fantastic
Thanks. :) Got any ideas for some nice looking desks to complement these shelves?
-
I seem to recall seeing some good ones on one of DMG's YouTube videos. There's a link to DMG's videos on my barely started and recently neglected blog (must post some more updates soon) in my signature
-
Thanks Tyrion. I'll check it out.
-
What do you guys think about a couple of the 36 bookshelves in the Underground Library, being full of potions instead of books or scrolls? Do potions have a place in a library? Seems like they might, I dunno.
Any other things I should be putting on these shelves in the library?
-
Personally I'd say no. A library contains books and (from my experience) taking any liquids in is frowned upon if not downright forbidden.
You could make a little vignette of a pile of potions in a corner somewhere. Maybe someone was in the Library reading a spell from a book before quaffing down a potion/potions and this is the detritus left behind?
-
If you want to mix it up a little - not everything in the library has to be written on paper. Maybe some stone tablets, or spells etched into bones, or some such...
-
What about some damaged bookcases, or ones with doors and locks (where the really dangerous books/scrolls are kept).
You could make some piles of damaged books to scatter on the floor - there's nothing that says everything in the library has to be in a pristine state.
-
Check out this tutorial on making bookshelves with a cupboard compartment on the bottom half
https://thegrinningskull.wordpress.com/2015/09/05/grims-dungeons-of-doom-need-storage-help-yourshelf-creating-mini-shelves/
There's also a tutorial on making tables on another post on his blog
https://thegrinningskull.wordpress.com/2015/09/01/grims-dungeons-of-doom-the-tables-are-turned-or-constructed/
-
Love those book shelves.
-
Thanks for the replies. I'll use both styles of scroll shelves.
I really like the stone tablets idea and will work on that! Maybe the bones too :)
A damaged bookcase sounds like a great idea thanks. I am gonna smash one up pretty good and have it in a lil pile, while slightly breaking up another.
I plan on having a few piles of books as well as looks books scattered here and there during game setup. The scenario calls for one, and it's going to be fairly good sized.
I'll check out those links on making those shelves with cupboards and the desks.
Thanks again!
-
Should the stone tablets be stored/presented something like the following?
(https://britishmuseumblog.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/room-55.jpg)
-
As promised, I uploaded this set of library shelving, that I sculpted in blender, to Thingiverse:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1391680
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/f8/3b/4f/fe/34/cc7cc9e57aae46f4244c6a46974c37f9_preview_featured.jpg)
-
The Flip Side of my two Scroll Shelves
I have two shelves glued together back-to-back. I've never showed the other side in all these photos, because they were unpopulated. However, I just populated the two flip sides of the scroll shelves. Here they are flipped:
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2qm4589.jpg)
The center one on the backside is still empty. 5 shelves down, 31 to go! oh my lol
Most of them will be glued back to back to form aisles in a grand library :) Like rows of them in the center of a 2 foot by 2 foot area. Surrounded by library desks , book piles etc.
-
Oh wow found an interseting article. I was searching on clay tablet storage and ran across it. Turns out the same article has other photos I've seen already with respect to scroll storage and chained books.. interesting! Here's the link:
preservationhistory.wikispaces.com/Preservation+strategies+from+the+ancient+world+through+the+eighteenth+century
I want to add clay tablets to my library :) looks like I need another style of shelf to design in blender! :)
EDIT: another article on bone scripts / oracle bones:
www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Oracle_Bone_Script
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oracle_bone
-
Are you a Chronomancer? Because time obviously travels at a different rate for you! :D
-
Are you a Chronomancer? Because time obviously travels at a different rate for you! :D
Lol I wish because these shelves are going to take forever!
-
Okay, so turns out I happened to buy some Sculpey (Original) yesterday. An hour or so ago, I figured I'd make good use of it for the first time and make some "clay tablets" for the library. Never sculpted plastic ever before-- just some clay a couple times. Here's my first attempt.
After sculpting I baked the clay in the oven at 275F for like 13 minutes.
I'll detail the tablets better .. I just whipped them out really fast just for proof of concept.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2yzk9c5.jpg)
-
They look great.
I would make some more angular rather than rounded edges here and there to make them more tabletly...
-
They look great.
I would make some more angular rather than rounded edges here and there to make them more tabletly...
Yeah I will thanks. Although many are rounded. Check out this link:
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=clay%20tablet&tbs=imgo:1
I made too many rounded.. I see what you mean. I see lots of clay tablets that are almost rectangular.
-
Now you just need to mix and match books scrolls and tablets in the same shelf :-)
-
Now you just need to mix and match books scrolls and tablets in the same shelf :-)
Yeah and have some broken and shattered clay tablets on the floor along with scattered books and scrolls. Huge pile of books, scrolls and tablets.
Maybe even craft a "book golem" construct with books, scrolls, tablets and etched bones :)
-
Hey Jennifer,
Love the bookshelves I'm currently working on some myself and have taken a lot of inspiration from this thread!
So I had an idea for you if you wanted to use it, I just recently rewatched The Lord of the Rings trilogy. The scene where gandalf was searching for information about the One ring in the library and grabs an armload of scrolls and drops them on a table overflowing with scrolls, books, ect... Well that got me thinking about what other things one would find in a library and boom there it was, tables overloaded with all sorts of stuff.
Well there it is so food for thought
Until next time happy gaming
Weez
-
Great stuff on here. Great ideas on the bookshelves and all the others.
-
Clay Tablets -- Take Two
Loving this sculpey! This 1.75lb block is gonna last me forever! I love how it bakes into flexible plastic.. light and relatively durable compared to hydrostone.
What do you think of the colors, texture and shapes? Should I glue them in? Or should I design another style of shelf in blender.. like one with 5 shelves instead of 3? (The clay tablets don't take up much vertical space.)
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/a24t3b.jpg)
-
Wow, great work! Throughly enjoyed going through your thread. Love the toilet paper mache, defiantly going to use that idea to make some scenery. Those book shelves are excellent too! Well done!
-
Miniature Sourdough Boule
I love to bake bread and homemade sourdough is my favorite -- using a starter I keep in the fridge.
Here is a photo of a sourdough boule I baked in the past. The white rings are from a flour lined wooden spiral basket that the dough rises in before flipping into a very hot covered cast iron dutch oven. After flipping into the hot cast iron pot, I scored a cross on it with a sharp knife. The score widens as the dough rises in the pot.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/1zz291d.jpg)
And I decided I'd sculpt one with the sculpey I just bought the other day (for the first time).
Here's how it turned out:
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/j7uwe9.jpg)
Used a toothpick for the lines and a sharp nice for scoring the star. Then based with a mix of honey brown & cocoa. Then washed with burnt umber. Then highlighted with snow white.
This photo is extremely close up.. it looks wonderful at normal viewing size/distance.
-
Looks wonderful at close up too. Very cool!!
-
Oh my god, I want to eat that.
-
I'm really loving your stuff. I just got a 3d printer so I'll probably be picking your brain on some things.
-
I'm really loving your stuff. I just got a 3d printer so I'll probably be picking your brain on some things.
Thanks for the compliment .
The 3-D printing subform at Dmscraft.proboards.com is helpful . Lots of mini fantasy craft there. I post in it along with a lot of other crafters.
Congrats on your printer!
-
The Keep -- Ruins
Added a rusty gothic barred window to my ruins piece (on the right--which is a copy of xintao's) to match the one of the left I made recently.
I will be adding three more shorter corner pieces -- a couple of those with rusty barred windows as well.
These 5 pieces will form the outer walls of The Keep, which will be 2 foot by 2 foot minimum. Then I'll have many ruined interior walls / levels -- I'd like a three or four level high piece as well, like 4ground offers.
It'll be nice when it is done because I can use the pieces individually in other game scenarios, or as a set for the gigantic Keep :) Also, keeping the colors pretty neutral so I can reuse in any game setting. Not going to base the ruins pieces, so they'll work in any environment. I'll be making corner and wall piles of debree to temporarily butt up against various ruins pieces as a substitute--I'll be making standalone piles as well.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/33cw4ed.jpg)
-
Your real bread looks delicious and your model bread is a great idea! Which modeling material did you use?
-
Your real bread looks delicious and your model bread is a great idea! Which modeling material did you use?
Thank you for the complements!
I bought Original Sculpey -- 1.75lb of it from my local craft store for $7.50 with 50% off coupon (normally $14.99). Never sculpted anything before a couple days ago. The first things I ever sculpted was those clay tablets.
I just rolled into balls and used back side of a glass pie pan to sculpt and bake on.
-
While working on The Keep, I noticed on page 106 of the first Frostgrave book, the following: "Maybe it's the greatest library in the city, but every spell is written on a ten foot slab of rock, crawling with blood rats.."
So the floor is made up of slabs of rock with spells inscribed? Or is the like one 10 foot slab of rack , like on a pedestal raised up to reading level? I'd like to make a 10 foot slab of rock with spell inscriptions on it with some little rats crawling over it :)
-
(http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae220/jp1885_photos/FG%20Stone%20Tapes%201.jpg)
My interpretation of stone slabs :D
-
(http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae220/jp1885_photos/FG%20Stone%20Tapes%201.jpg)
My interpretation of stone slabs :D
Cool! Sure makes it easier to fill out the library that way! Getting tired of making books and scrolls lol.
-
lol Know that feelng all too well!
-
Jennifer, here are the rough dimensions from the Pegasus Hobby tower you were asking about. Hope this helps. Looking forward to seeing if you make one of your own.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w95/M4jumbo/General/Miscellaneous/IMG_3361.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/M4jumbo/media/General/Miscellaneous/IMG_3361.jpg.html)
-
Edit: Sorry, not sure why that double posted.
-
Wow, thanks for taking the time on those dimensions. Guess I'll have to make one like it soon then! Thank you. :)
Looks like stack of 1" rigid insulation (pink foam) for the base. With toilet paper mache stone masonry, popsicle (lolly) stick door, and medium weight chipboard shingles.
-
While working on The Keep, I noticed on page 106 of the first Frostgrave book, the following: "Maybe it's the greatest library in the city, but every spell is written on a ten foot slab of rock, crawling with blood rats.."
So, what a breath of relief this passage of text gives me. I can now form many of the modular library "blocks" with these 10 foot by 10 foot slabs, which are very easy and quick to make--compared to crafting shelving, scrolls, books & clay tablets. I just need to make some lil' rats with sculpey to sit on top of a couple of them.
Thank you jp1885 for some nice inspiration!
Going to be inserting pennies (or other cheap coins) into the base to weight it down nicely. I'll hot glue them in place.
Material used: 1" rigid insulation (pink foam). Etched with dull pencil.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/10mimhj.jpg)
-
I can't believe you're taking the easy way out here! I was hoping for tiny opened books, with tiny writing with a tiny book mark.
Looking good.
-
I can't believe you're taking the easy way out here! I was hoping for tiny opened books, with tiny writing with a tiny book mark.
Looking good.
I'll have a lot of open books and scrolls on laying on both reading & scribe's desks. And open books scatted on the floor, including in piles w/ scrolls and some clay tablets.
-
Thank you jp1885 for some nice inspiration!
You're welcome!
Loving your work so far - very good stuff :)
-
Scribe's Desk
This is a rough, unpainted, prototype made of popsicle sticks and some medium weight chipboard.
What do you think?
Details: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51753/thread (http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/51753/thread)
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/o89jlx.jpg)
-
I really like it. Not just the reading bench, but the whole overall look. I've been making models for over 20 years now but your stuff (and everyone else's) is inspiring me to do more, and up my game. Really love seeing what you're coming up with. Keep it up.
-
You managed to get to page 13 in a month!! That is an accomplishment in and of itself. And it is full of hobby goodness too!
-
Thanks for the complements. I get so much inspiration from ya all and dmscraft forum.
Painted the Scribe's Desk. What ya think?
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/4s17ad.jpg)
-
Very nice additions. Thanks for sharing
-
Row of Inscribed Stone Slabs
Just finished a row of inscribed stone slabs for my library. Painted it up different stone colors. This row is a single "triple-wide" piece. There is a "single-wide" inscribed stone slab standing alone to the side.
I'll be making two of these triple-wide pieces, about three single-wide, and about three double-wide pieces.
The single-wide is the width of my bookshelves.
There will be a section in the library that's all stone slabs and another section with shelves of books, scrolls and clay tablets--each of the three all mixed together. I am thinking half of the library is stone slab and half is shelving, with desks down the middle along with piles of books here and there.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2zrq1dk.jpg)
-
Very nice, as usual @Jennifer ... though on the middle tablet there's a typo on the 4th row. (Deamon only has 1x m) ;)
-
Very nice, as usual @Jennifer ... though on the middle tablet there's a typo on the 4th row. (Deamon only has 1x m) ;)
LOL!
I printed out a runic alphabet and sat it next to me and looked at it.. etch in random letters as small as I could with semi sharp pencil.. have no idea what they mean. A lot was random scribbles as well :)
-
Hahaha... a typo...
I think they look really awesome. If I had to name one thing I dislike about it, is that I think you should continue with those lines in the large slabs up the top of it, as if they are different slabs placed closely to each other. I think that would make them look just a slight tad cooler.
But that is nitpicking. I am quite jealous of your growing library.
-
Your stuff looks amazing -really cool! :-*
-
Hahaha... a typo...
I think they look really awesome. If I had to name one thing I dislike about it, is that I think you should continue with those lines in the large slabs up the top of it, as if they are different slabs placed closely to each other. I think that would make them look just a slight tad cooler.
But that is nitpicking. I am quite jealous of your growing library.
They are inscribed column separators. Much like how many clay tablets are inscribed:
(http://www.britishmuseum.org/collectionimages/AN00785/AN00785593_001_l.jpg)
Actually there are four separate slabs next to each other (painted different color to set them apart even more). They are actually glued together. I cut them individually.
-
Ah, okay! That does look okay, if you think of it that way.
Don't mind me...
-
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2w6gldj.jpg)
-
Basing Trees
Here's a start anyways. Medium weight chipboard glued to 1/2" rigid insulation with Alene's tacky glue. Then carved with sharp boning knife then sanded and painted. (Most of the 1/2" insulation was carved off.. would of used 1/4" rigid insulation if I had it.)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/1zn8sjt.jpg)
-
Received a lovely package from Annie, including some Twinings tea -- oh my! (Love Twinings -- love PG Tips even more.. I don't settle for American tea -- I stock PG Tips at home!)
Got the Frostgrave soldiers, some wizards, the thaumaterge & apprentice, GBP 50/50 mix of vikings & Dark age warriors, treasure chests.
Love it all.
However, the viking hirdmen bodies are more narrow than the Frostgrave soldiers. Maybe I should order some female heads for these viking bodies.
Tried to glue one together.. bad experience with superglue.. can't wait for my tamiya to come in the mail.
-
If I may this is the best plastic glue to glue plastic models together, as it has a fine metal tip for good control: Testors Model Master
-
If I may this is the best plastic glue to glue plastic models together, as it has a fine metal tip for good control: Testors Model Master
LOL such comments can be explosive.
Lots of peeps have that feeling. I myself been looking for a change. Looking at the Revell blue bottle with the same tip applicator tip.
In the end doesn't it depend on what type of plastic it is. That is always the question.
Grimm
-
I'm hoping the Tamiya will be my answer. Right now I just a bit of e6000 with a toothpick. It's goopy but I found if I put it on a toothpick then apply it with that I can somewhat control the mess.
Will this dry rock hard? Just hoping for no flexing after it cures.
-
Well this is the first mini I've ever assembled. What do ya think of what I chose for a thug?
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/123p2jk.jpg)
(Ignore the bit of plastic debree I forgot to brush off , below the waist to the right)
-
Looks good - well done!
(Personally I manage well enough with Superglue - use it sparingly and give it a few seconds to go slightly tacky before joining bits together)
-
I guess that arm I put on him is for attaching a shield isn't it? I chose it because he was a thug and it kinda makes him look like he wants to punch someone as well as slice them with sword.
The texture of my canvas mat reallly shows up that close doesn't it? Maybe need to go with a different mat.. but to be honest you can't see that texture while playing -- it's too small.
-
There's a lot of inspiration on this thread for my Frostgrave scenery project. Good stuff.
-
Thanks for the complements.
Hey I got a question about shields. Do you guys assemble the minis without them. Then paint each separately and attach? Seems like it would be a lot easier! Pulled the shield off that I was just gluing on now.
Also those bars on the back of the shield, on the GBP Viking HIrdmen and Dark Age Warrios sets (same shield), do they go horizontal or vertical?
-
I glue the shields on mine and then paint the whole thing (leaving the back of the shield quite dark). IIRC there should be a slight groove in the back of the shield in which to place the arm.
Officially thugs don't carry shields (though if you want to add them then go for it), so most of my thugs have the 'punchy' look about them!
-
I glue the shields on mine and then paint the whole thing (leaving the back of the shield quite dark). IIRC there should be a slight groove in the back of the shield in which to place the arm.
Officially thugs don't carry shields (though if you want to add them then go for it), so most of my thugs have the 'punchy' look about them!
I wasn't intending on adding a shield to the thug, I'm working on a Knight right now: using Viking Hirdmen body with Dark Age Warrior head. :)
-
Do I need to prime Frostgrave Soldiers & GBP Viking Hirdmen/Dark Age Warriors? Or does the plastic take the first coat of paint well like the Reaper bones?
-
Will this dry rock hard? Just hoping for no flexing after it cures.
[/quote]
Yes, this will 100% dry rock hard with no flexing. Plastic glue creates a chemical reaction that will melt the plastic bonding two pieces into a single piece of plastic. :)
Always prime the models prior to painting them otherwise the acrylic paint will chip off.
-
Yup - prime them (I use white auto primer).
-
I have brush on reaper primer. Is this a bad idea? should I be using spray on?
-
It all comes down to preference. I prefer spray on primer. Done properly I feel it gives a more even coat.
-
The main reason I use spray on is that it is quicker - you can do 20 miniatures in one go!
-
I shouldn't lose much detail with a properly thinned down reaper primer, should I?
-
Give it a try - if you lose too much detail, or the paint doesn't hold, then spray prime the next one :)
-
A good primer will stick to the surface better than ordinary paint. I use Vallejo Model Color White Primer applied with an old brush. It takes longer than a spray but I prefer it as I can get the paint into every nook and cranny. I've tried sprays but I always find small areas I've missed or the spray hasn't covered.
What I would say is more essential is to clean your mini's before hand to remove and release agents, or grease from your fingers. This (IMHO) is the most essential part of prepping a mini. I clean mine with either domestic soap or washing up liquid, then rinse them thoroughly in clean water.
-
A good primer will stick to the surface better than ordinary paint. I use Vallejo Model Color White Primer applied with an old brush. It takes longer than a spray but I prefer it as I can get the paint into every nook and cranny. I've tried sprays but I always find small areas I've missed or the spray hasn't covered.
What I would say is more essential is to clean your mini's before hand to remove and release agents, or grease from your fingers. This (IMHO) is the most essential part of prepping a mini. I clean mine with either domestic soap or washing up liquid, then rinse them thoroughly in clean water.
Yeah I thoroughly cleaned mine with dish soap and a toothbrush. Then I brushed on thin coat of white Reaper primer.
Painting up a metal wizard right now. Did dark base coats (on robe and staff only so far) and I keep dry brushing my way up the layers -- hope this technique will suffice.
Here it is so far (I goofed up on hood, should be brown like cape I guess). I still have to highlight robe.
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/bfhvo3.jpg)
-
I don't believe there is a right or a wrong technique or style of painting. It's whatever suits you best and whatever produces a style your happiest with.
My friend starts from a black undercoat and works his way up, leaving the black as a line between all the colors. Another friend starts from the same black undercoat, but hits the model with a tiny burst of white spray paint from the top before he starts as this shows him where the highlights should be.
Myself I put a thin layer of light grey all over my miniature after the primer has dried, then a thin wash of Vallejo Sepia as this brings out all the detail and makes it easier for me to see.
The Wizard is looking good, can't wait to see it finished. = )
-
Just got this bottle of glue via Royal Mail today: Tamiya Extra Thin
Thanks for the suggestion Azzabat!
I absolutely LOVE this glue for gluing sprue plastic together! I like how it brushes on really thinly; goes on so easily with no gooey mess, using the included brush built into the cap. Then you just wait like 5 seconds before joining. Then you hold for like 10 seconds -- and it grabs on well every time. (Nothing oozes out from the sides either because it goes on so thin.) Then you have like a plenty of time to adjust things around (a minute or two). Then finally it only takes like 2-3 hours for it to fully cure. Nice glue!
Also, love the shape of the bottle, how large it is -- can't tip over. Like the looks of the label as well!
Thanks again; you Brits really know your glues! :)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51SXv1Ewz1L._SX355_.jpg)
-
Glad I could be of help.
If you've never tried Liquid Poly here is a simple little video Humbrol put out that explains the benefits quite well and that I found useful for explaining.
https://youtu.be/5PSOigHYtCk
C J
= )
-
Love the library.
-
I think I'm just about ready to get back to the crafting. Need to play my first Frostgrave game at some time.
Have a lot of minis to paint. To be honest I am a bit intimidated because these minis are so small.
-
If it helps, don't bother painting eyes and other such fiddly detail (I never paint eyes unless they're particularly large and obvious). Until you're confident enough to try different techniques, you can always start off by just undercoating, painting on a base coat and then applying a quick shade. The minis will still look reasonably good when looking at them from above the tabletop :)
-
I agree witht he point on painting eyes, after all the minis represent a moment frozen in time and it just happens that all my minis are blinking when you look at them. Unless done well painted eyes detract from the appearance of the mini rather than add to it.
-
This is the best I could do after hours on this mini. But I am totally new to this. Sure seems like a lot of time for not that great of a result. Wondering if I should just buy poorly pre-painted minis in bulk lots and sell these sprues.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/j5chw1.jpg)
EDIT: ignore the blue tint in the left photo.. it's not there.. must be camera or lighting or something.. editing software? I used the same black on the front as on the back.. see the right photo..i t's black.
-
Nothing wrong with that at all, especially if it's the first figure you've ever painted!
The next one will take you less time, the one after that even less - practice makes perfect :D
-
Pre-painted is not the same, its not your work.
and at the risk of causing an echo, there's nothing wrong with what you have already done, keep at it and enjoy it.
You will get better :)
-
Yeah. Totally agree - being way too hard on yourself.
-
Painting figures is not easy and takes time to master. Though I'm no master, here you have a couple easy tips to improve from this level:
- Thin down your paints a little. You can paint multiple layers with same color when needed.
- Wash your minis. Paint main colors and then use appropriate wash over them. This improves quality rapidly. If washing is not familiar to you, check out a tutorial from youtube.
Still, be prepared to paint a lot of minis before you start to get happy with the results. I know I rarely am!
-
Thanks. Yeah I washed pretty much everything. But it didn't stay I guess. I put a very dark brown over the grey hair for example. I saw dark shadows in the hair at one point. I can still see the wash in the face though at least.
Then I highlighted.
Literally spent hours on this figure lol.
I suppose I need to invest hundreds of dollars in cital paints and patching citadel washes. .. righ tnow I have been mixing my own washes in the palette but I haven't been adding water drops that were made up with a tiny amount of dish soap in it.. which I suppose I should of done. Wish I had a foolproof recipe for washes. I can't afford $8-$10 per citadel wash. I am not that much into this hobby.
-
I highly recommend investing in a couple commercial washes, though you don't need the whole range. I have done pretty nicely with just Nuln Oil (black) and Agrax Earthshade (brown). Pro painters can mix their own washes, but for us newer painters, commercial washes really give a fighting chance!
For example with this latest piece of yours, with a limited palette, I would have just painted the main colors and thrown Nuln OIl all over the piece, face and all. Then a few finishing touches with highlights and done!
-
Commercial washes are pretty much just matte medium and ink, you can definitely make your own if you're willing to invest some time experimenting.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/261541.page
-
You sure are on the right track and it shouldn't be hard to improve it to the next level. What I'd buy are the Army Painter washes:
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Ink/dp/B00HC8D80W
They work similar to the Citadel washes, just from a different manufacturer. I wouldn't bother with dish washing soap, matt medium, flow improver or any other additives, until you've got a lot of experience. Not that they require a pro to use them well, but it's a lot of hassle which can be easily done with the AP washes. I think using additives starts to pay off once you have a lot of experience with paints, blending, colour effects, etc.
Here's an easy way to use them. Let's take the green skirt you painted:
1. Paint the skirt with the basecoat; make sure you get a good coverage.
2. Wash it with slightly thinned Strong Wash.
3. Paint the first highlight, by adding some bone colour to the green.
4. Paint the second highlight by adding some more bone to the green.
5. Wash it all with a thinned Green wash. Maybe add a second and a third thin wash. Tip: use a hair dryer to get it dry fast.
6. Paint the extreme highlights with the lightest highlight colours again.
Seems like a lot of steps, but with a hair dryer and some practice you could do this in about 10 minutes. Here's an example of a miniature I painted in a similar way:
(http://paintoholic.nl/images/frostgrave_captain.jpg)
I first painted him in base colours, simply blocking in all colours. I added highlights to the leather parts and the clothes on his back. I then washed him with several thin coats of Strong Tone. I used the Dark Tone on the darker parts (the halber's shaft) and some of the Soft Tone on the lighter parts too (the huge horns and bone). Green tone was used for the clothing and gold. I then highlighted everything: carefully drybrushing the bone, the halberd's shaft. I then added some highlights to the leather and clothes.
After varnishing I added pigments for the rust and done. Took me about an evening's work to paint him (but note I have 20 years of experience).
-
Thanks for the replies guys.
Wow, an entire set of washes for only $22? I'm in! :) Thanks!
-
Another thing to remember is that you're going to be seeing these figures from two or three feet when you're playing a game. It's remarkable how much better my painting looks from that distance :D
I also find the "three week" rule very useful. While you're working on a figure you see every flaw and remember every mistake. After a week or three those memories have faded (quicker for me these days :(), and you just see the overall effect.
For a first figure, it's very good. As has been said, the next one will be better, as will the one after that. By the time you get to the end of your warband you'll find that you barely recognise the first and want to go back and redo them.
And that's when the hobby has you o_o
-
Another thing to remember is that you're going to be seeing these figures from two or three feet when you're playing a game. It's remarkable how much better my painting looks from that distance :D
I also find the "three week" rule very useful. While you're working on a figure you see every flaw and remember every mistake. After a week or three those memories have faded (quicker for me these days :(), and you just see the overall effect.
For a first figure, it's very good. As has been said, the next one will be better, as will the one after that. By the time you get to the end of your warband you'll find that you barely recognise the first and want to go back and redo them.
And that's when the hobby has you o_o
I painted it without magnifying light. At about 8 inches away (that's the closest i can see without reading glasses I need to buy -- I'm 45 .. getting that age).
From an arm's length, I think the figure looks really good. I am happy with it.
Actually when I took the photo I thought it would be impressive. But the photo really zooms in and catches all the flaws. It'll look better in an overall warband photo where each mini is smaller :)
-
He looks better further away. Ignore the other two -- they aren't finished yet. (They were ones I did prior and didn't finish.. but will soon.)
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/10xfz9x.jpg)
-
Here's from the back of the model. He looks pretty good I think at arm's length.
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/316b1gh.jpg)
-
Looks like nice tabletop quality from this distance. Definitely a successful first piece.
Imagine how many of us have managed to paint our first piece to this quality? None? I definitely remember my first miniatures. In a closeup, they would have resembled something from a kindergardener's coloring book. lol
With some practice with inks/washes, I'm sure your following miniatures will be even better.
-
Looks like nice tabletop quality from this distance. Definitely a successful first piece.
Imagine how many of us have managed to paint our first piece to this quality? None? I definitely remember my first miniatures. In a closeup, they would have resembled something from a kindergardener's coloring book. lol
With some practice with inks/washes, I'm sure your following miniatures will be even better.
Thanks, I can't wait to get that set of Army Painter washes for $21. What a deal. :) I suck at making my own washes.. always have problems and it ruins hours of work.
-
When you want to make your own washes, you could try to mix paint and medium (water in my case) with a brush's tip of dishwasher detergent. This will break the surface tension of the fluid and it will distribute more evenly. It will take some practice to get right, so always try them on a "victim" you use for test purposes.
But as said, Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade should get you a long way by themselves. And the Armypainter set is reasonably priced.
Lastly, your first attempt really looks like good tabletop quality, so don't sell yourself short :)
-
He looks great. I think the main "problem" is the very stark contrast between the black and silver on the chainmail. It covers so much of the figure and therefore stands out. If you mixed up an intermediary chainmail dark silver (ie silver with some black mixed in) for a first heavy dry brush before a lighter drybrush with the bright silver it would give a more natural look to the chainmail. Set up on your scenery piece he looks great though so probably not worth going back to change him - just adapt and learn for the next one.
-
Just add to Jon_1066 comment, a great first coat for all things metal is the GW paint Leadbelcher. It's basically a silver/black mix, but takes a black wash really well. Then dry brush lightly with the silver colour you used. The last figure I posted in my thread is heavily chainmailed... http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=86574.90 and uses this simple method.
-
I have four sprues of Dark Age Warriors. They come with mostly spears and slings which I guess I won't use.. but there are a few swords and axes.
So I have decided to make thugs with some of these. Need an idea of how many different thugs I should make since I want to do them in batch. What's the most thugs two players would need for a game?
I also made a thief with one of them (since the thief has cloth armor), by trimming down one of the swords to a dagger. (Or I could make him a thug.. could be either I guess -- he doesn't look very stealthy though so I guess he'd be a thug with a dagger.)
Does anyone ever use more than one thug in their warband? I know I need at least two, for two players... 1 each.
EDIT: So I have four Dark Age Warrior "thugs" assembled now, with four different heads and the following weapons: axe, sword, dagger & club. (converted a sword to dagger and converted a straight sling to a club). Is four enough?
EDIT #2: Bleh, just read that clubs and daggers can't be considered "hand weapon". Wish I had read that page before assembling these two Dark Age Warrior thugs. I can alter the rule if I like though. ALl thugs have "hand weapons" and I can just identify these two as "thugs" regardless of what "hand weapon" they are holding. Or I could just make the dark age warrior with the dagger a thief and put a spiked ball of some sort on the end of the club and make it a mace.. or just call it a large club.
-
There's nothing that states clubs can't be hand weapons - some of my figures have them.
You could also class your dagger wielding guys as thugs, rather than thieves so long as you make it clear at the start of a game and your opponent is cool with it.
Personally I'd field 3-4 thugs in a starting warband.
-
There's nothing that states clubs can't be hand weapons - some of my figures have them.
You could also class your dagger wielding guys as thugs, rather than thieves so long as you make it clear at the start of a game and your opponent is cool with it.
Personally I'd field 3-4 thugs in a starting warband.
3-4 thugs for one player?
Read the "dagger paragraph" in the book. Says that things smaller than a sword aren't hand weapons.. they gave examples of club, knife, etc..
-
Not a big deal to most players. If you say it's a thug, it's a thug. I'd go with 2-3 per player, never felt the need to have more then 3 myself.
-
3-4 thugs for one player?
Read the "dagger paragraph" in the book. Says that things smaller than a sword aren't hand weapons.. they gave examples of club, knife, etc..
Ah fair enough. It depends on the size of the club I suppose! Personally I'd have no problem with a club armed thug.
One of my warbands has 4 thugs, another has three... Now I come to think of it, my latest starter warband has none!
-
Anyone care to share photos of some thugs made using the "Frostgrave Soldiers" sprues?
Should I make some thugs with the Frostgrave Soldiers sprue or save those 20 figures for other character classes? Because I can make more thugs using the Dark Age Warriors.
-
I guess I want to do all the assembling before painting. I was wondering if someone could tell me how many max I'd probably need of each (for 2 players):
Thug (already got this one thanks -- going to make eight total using DAW)
Archer ?
Crossbowman ?
Infantryman
Tracker
Man-at-Arms
Treasure Hunter
Knight
Templar
Ranger
Barbarian
Apothecary
Marksman
-
Marksman Mashup
1) Head from Dark Age Warriors
2) Body from Viking Hirdmen
3) Arms from Frostgrave Soldiers
4) Short Sword from Undead Encounters (I'll fill in the chips on the sword before priming or cut it down to a shorter sword.)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2uffs7n.jpg)
-
Awesome mashup. And personally i like the nicked blade. It's as if he has been fighting for ages now and didn't get a chance to mend his blade or get a new one. Or maybe it's magical? Anyway, I think it brings character and adds some story to the model.
-
I just assembled 14 skeletons (Undead Encounters sprues). I want to batch paint them all and have them look good at arm's length. I want to do this as quick as possible. They are mostly bones of course, followed by tattered/torn cloth, some have small pieces of broken chain mail. Almost all have shield with wooden back.
How would you go about these? Should I use reaper "bone" paint? I have it. The cloth I'll paint different colors. Chainmail: should I paint that black first and dry brush on the metal? Or use a lighter silver metal paint and let the overall wash get the dark shadows?
I am getting the Army Painter wash set from Amazon ($22) day after tomorrow. When I get that which wash should I use? Should I just wash it all the same color since skeletons would be dirty anyways? Dirty cloth, dirty mail, dirty shields etc.. Would make it easier.
Which of the Army Painter washes should I use and do I need to thin it down before washing all these skeles?
Thanks a bunch! (Literally spent hours assembling them all.. quite a chore... many I will paint as two seperate halves and glue together after done so I can paint more easily -- shield gets in the way is why).
Jennifer
-
Here's my recipe for fast skeletons:
1. Prime white
2. Wash with a Burnt Umber brown ink (I use Windsor & Newton ink)
3. Drybrush with a medium brown tone (I use a Vallejo Model Colour dark ochre)
4. Drybrush with a bone colour (I use Foundry Bone B)
5. Drybrush with a light bone colour (I use Vallejo Model Colour Ivory). If this is too light, use a thinned Strong Tone wash to tone it down again.
6. Paint all metalwork with silver (I use Citadel Chainmail)
7. Paint the golden parts with gold (I use a P3 gold, don't remember the name)
8. Wash all metallics with 1-2 thinned washes of Strong Tone.
9. Wash the wood with some browns and greens to get sme colour variation.
10. Drybrush the wood with some light grey to make it old and dry (I use Foundry Artic Grey B).
11. After varnishing use pigments to add rust to the metal.You can also use brown and orange paints and stipple it on with an old brush.
For Chainmail, I'd first wash it with Dark Tone. 2-3 coats should do it. Then a soft drybrush with silver. Then a wash of Strong Tone. Maybe some rust after varnishing if you like it. I'd keep the metals dull and old, as these are skeletons. So keep the silver tone down.
For the washes, slightly thinning always helps. But not too much. You're drybrushing afterwards anyway.
-
Here's my recipe for fast skeletons:
1. Prime white
2. Wash with a Burnt Umber brown ink (I use Windsor & Newton ink)
3. Drybrush with a medium brown tone (I use a Vallejo Model Colour dark ochre)
4. Drybrush with a bone colour (I use Foundry Bone B)
5. Drybrush with a light bone colour (I use Vallejo Model Colour Ivory). If this is too light, use a thinned Strong Tone wash to tone it down again.
6. Paint all metalwork with silver (I use Citadel Chainmail)
7. Paint the golden parts with gold (I use a P3 gold, don't remember the name)
8. Wash all metallics with 1-2 thinned washes of Strong Tone.
9. Wash the wood with some browns and greens to get sme colour variation.
10. Drybrush the wood with some light grey to make it old and dry (I use Foundry Artic Grey B).
11. After varnishing use pigments to add rust to the metal.You can also use brown and orange paints and stipple it on with an old brush.
For Chainmail, I'd first wash it with Dark Tone. 2-3 coats should do it. Then a soft drybrush with silver. Then a wash of Strong Tone. Maybe some rust after varnishing if you like it. I'd keep the metals dull and old, as these are skeletons. So keep the silver tone down.
For the washes, slightly thinning always helps. But not too much. You're drybrushing afterwards anyway.
How is that fast?
In your position I would undercoat them white with a rattle can, block in all the non bone colours, stipple on some rust on the metal then bung on a wash to cover the lot. Will look 90% there with minimal time and effort.
-
It is fast :)
Sploshing on the ink takes about 10 seconds per miniature. Really, no need to be tidy or careful. It is ink. Just make sure you prevent any bubbles and such. Then it's 3 drybrushes for the bone...I think I did this within 2 minutes time. So then the skeleton is done. The most time is spent on the metallics, which is still peanuts.
For these skeletons I think the total painting time per miniature is less than 10 minutes:
(http://paintoholic.nl/images/skeletons.jpg)
-
I can't stand all the accessories on the skeleton set I got.. shields, cloth, mail, helms , collars,, shoulder pads etc.. sigh.. this is going to take way too long.. thinking about throwing them all away.
What I'd really like to know is which sprue the skeletons came from that are in the Frostgrave book (the first one). They are simple and would be easy to paint. I've spent like 6 hours assembling these skeletons and I think I'd still be ahead if I just threw them away and bought another sprue of simple skeletons, assemble those, and paint.
I can do like 4 or so of these armored skeletons and use them as the "armored skeleton" in the beastiary. Thing is all of these skeletons have armor (i.e. a shield).. the set really didn't make sense. I really want the set that was shown in the Frostgrave book.
-
Wargames Factory:
http://www.beastsofwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Skeleton-Warriors-Sprue.jpg
Note: these are also multi-part models. Not my first choice for skeletons to make them multi-part. But they sure are excellent skeletons.
As an alternative you could use Reaper Bones skeletons...cheap and easy to paint!
https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/skeleton/latest/77242
-
Look for some of the old GW undead horde ones on ebay. Should be dirt cheap and can be as simple as a single sword to paint that isn't bone.
Like these bad boys:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/28mm-Fantasy-Citadel-Games-Workshop-skeleton-lot-/272415186366?hash=item3f6d35ddbe:g:GSMAAOSwmLlYAtFZ
-
I haven't been able to find the Wargames Factory skeletons anywhere (looks like they've sold their line to a different manufacturer but I think they're OOP for the time being) so you might not want to spend a lot of time searching for those. The old citadel ones jon_1066 mentioned are almost as nice, and also simpler to assemble.
-
Here's what I've done so far. Just did the leftmost thug in its entirety about an hour ago. Hand mixed colors on palette since I have limited paints. Used Citadel Fleshshade wash on everything except weapon.
By the way he's holding a pipe, what do you think? :) So many spears... had to think of something.. I think it's thuggish :)
I think I put the wash on a bit to thick.. I mean I am supposed to thin down that wash with a bit of water no? Didn't run perfectly as you can see but it's ok. Maybe I'll get better.. could use some wash tips thanks.
Still did to wash the other thug and the treasure hunter. And I need to finish the face on the treasure hunter. And the eyes on the Knight.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/j9u1ee.jpg)
-
They look good to me - nice work!
To make your pipe-toting thug more thuggish, you could drybrush the pipe with a bit of orangey-red so that it looks rusty maybe?
-
Sorry I already sealed it. I got another thought with the pipe and I'll make that one rusty.
-
I think I put the wash on a bit to thick.. I mean I am supposed to thin down that wash with a bit of water no?
They look great, and in fact very lightly washed to my eye. From these, the best one is clearly the second one from right.
Easy way to create really fast rust effects to metal is simply dabbing brown earthy wash over them without covering very large area.
If you use Citadel's Reikland Fleshshade, you may want to use very pale skin color before applying the wash. Light skintone -> highlight with even lighter (almost white) skintone -> apply Reikland Fleshshade is the pattern that usually works for me.
You also can thin Reikland Fleshshade and other citadel washes with a bit of water for lighter effect. This seems to be good for finishing washes, if you need to do multiple ones.
-
They look great. Don't bother with the eyes - you won't see them on the table top.
I like the thug - the orange looks good and the wash seems to have gone on well. I imagine that metal bar is some piece of ancient star metal the thug has picked up in the Frostgrave ruins. No one can smithy it but it makes a great weapon!
Basing them will also make a huge difference to how they look. Are you going with snow?
-
They look great. Don't bother with the eyes - you won't see them on the table top.
I like the thug - the orange looks good and the wash seems to have gone on well. I imagine that metal bar is some piece of ancient star metal the thug has picked up in the Frostgrave ruins. No one can smithy it but it makes a great weapon!
Basing them will also make a huge difference to how they look. Are you going with snow?
Thanks for the complement. I guess in my Frostgrave parallel universe/world.. metal pipes and plumbing are common. :) I really think it's cool anyways and like the look of it.. Looks much more thuggish to me than a spear :)
I was thinking I'd put play sand with smaller bits of construction sand on the base then paint espresso brown and dry brush dungeon grey.. highlight very lightly with some lighter grey. That way I could use them in any setting and they'd somewhat match. e.g. would work well outside in Frostgrave or in a dungeon. Suppose it could even work on grass.
-
Dark Age Warrior Thugs
Here is four of them. This is all new to me so bear with my junior painting skills.. I am totally happy with them though .. they look good at arm's length and will work fine for the table. Trying to paint these as fast as I can but takes time.
(https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic3223594.jpg)
-
Skeletons and Dark Age Warrior Thief
(https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic3223605.jpg)
-
Nice! Excellent job on that skeleton. Works really well with those colours. Maybe do the clothing green, blue or black to get a bit more contrast but other than that great work. I also have these Mantic models standing ready for some paint.
The thief is really nice and gritty. His face is spot on 8)
-
I agree - very nice work, especially on the skeleton.
-
The guy next to the skeleton reminds me of Norman Reedus lol
Very nice clean work, if your looking for plastic skeletons without any details, I suggest the very old HeroQuest ones.
-
Thanks for the complements about the skeletons guys. The rust is dry brushed "Americana Burnt Orange"
I agree with the comment about the contrast with the cloth. I didn't have it all planned out beforehand.. just started painting and it evolved. I've been thinking about repainting the cloth on that figure. I just haven't decided what would be a good color. Should I paint all of them the same color so they look like a warband or should I paint the cloth various colors like I've been doing with my Frostgrave soldiers? I am leaning towards different colors.
-
You sure are on the right track and it shouldn't be hard to improve it to the next level. What I'd buy are the Army Painter washes:
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Ink/dp/B00HC8D80W
Thanks for this recommendation. I got the washes a day early (yesterday) and have been loving them. They sure make the figures look nice.. cloth, armour, flesh , skeleton bones! Can't believe this set is only $22. Eight bottles!! I paid $10 alone for citadel fleshshade wash.
By the way I really like the size/shape of the Army Painter wash bottles.. they are exactly the same as reaper, and fit into the nice reaper paint starter kit case I already had. Have room for many more paints in that case.. Like how it keeps the air out as well. I like the bottles much better than the Citadel bottle.
-
Frostgrave Knights, Templar & Marksmen
I want to start focusing on assembling all the chain mail wearing Frostgrave soldiers: Knights, Templar & Marksmen.
I have 3 sets of sprues: Frostgrave Soldiers, Viking Hirdmen & Dark Age Warriors.
I was wondering how many of each should I make? This is to cover 2 players and just about all scenarios.
-
The guy next to the skeleton reminds me of Norman Reedus lol
The axeman dude too :)
-
Also like the skeleton a lot. These are a lot better than my first models, i must say.
-
Dark Age Warriors - Thugs & Thieves
I would have all eight complete, but one is sitting in some simple green -- poor fella.
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/zxve3c.jpg)
-
Nice work. They really look like an angry bunch.
-
If I use enough clear matte spray sealer, can I just store all my thugs in one lil cubby, shouldn't they be protected enough? I'd like one big box, with a cubby for each class of frostgrave character and just throw them all in there. I don't want the bulky of proper storage (foam etc). I plan on having about 75 soldiers and then the wizards and apprentices.
Or is there another storage solution that doesn't take up too much space? Should I glue metal washers to the bottoms of all my bases and use magnetic sheets?
-
What's the best filler for minis? I want to work on the bases now. Have been having to do two coats of pva/sand as is. I filled in one with modeling paste.. wondering how the pva /sand will stick to the modeling paste.
Should I be using Green Stuff? I can buy it from Amazon.. Is that the best stuff to use?
-
sometimes it is just enough to superglue some little "rocks" close to the edge of that mini-base, and after waiting a bit I soak the base in woodglue - espacially to those edges - then use a little bit rougher sand, which will obscure these even more.
The last remains I later cover with snow (or grass .. depending on the gaming table and such).
Apart from that I have seen some very nice greenstuff-cobblestones built up to the same height.
btw
nice bunch! => +1
hey do look mean and ... well ... good :D
-
What's the best filler for minis? I want to work on the bases now. Have been having to do two coats of pva/sand as is. I filled in one with modeling paste.. wondering how the pva /sand will stick to the modeling paste.
Should I be using Green Stuff? I can buy it from Amazon.. Is that the best stuff to use?
You could build up the bases around the models' own base with ova with a couple of coats, and then paint it (PVA can be used to fill in small gaps etc).
Alternately, get a small pot of wood filler, or polyfilla of the flexible variety and fill stuff in.
Green stuff would be OTT and very expensive.
-
If I use enough clear matte spray sealer, can I just store all my thugs in one lil cubby, shouldn't they be protected enough? I'd like one big box, with a cubby for each class of frostgrave character and just throw them all in there. I don't want the bulky of proper storage (foam etc). I plan on having about 75 soldiers and then the wizards and apprentices.
Or is there another storage solution that doesn't take up too much space? Should I glue metal washers to the bottoms of all my bases and use magnetic sheets?
Better to go with foam trays, you can get cheap options from Kaiser-Rushforth and similar vendors.
Putting figures in shared spaces works for a bit, but invariably IMHO it ends up with chips in paint work and damage to bases.
A KR card carrying case is not much bigger than two shoe boxes in size and will do you for ~100 figures.
-
Hi Jennifer, I just noticed your thread today and have gone through all of it and your thread on the dmcrafting forum. Your stuff is great! And you have already saved me about £50. I was going to buy some resin models of stone round houses but now I am going to make them myself out of toilet paper mache. I like the way you just have a go at anything. Thanks for the inspiration.
-
Hi Jennifer, I just noticed your thread today and have gone through all of it and your thread on the dmcrafting forum. Your stuff is great! And you have already saved me about £50. I was going to buy some resin models of stone round houses but now I am going to make them myself out of toilet paper mache. I like the way you just have a go at anything. Thanks for the inspiration.
Your welcome, thanks for the complement. Glad you found some stuff useful. A note regarding the toilet paper mache, don't make a batch bigger than you can use within a couple days. I had a bag sitting around for a couple weeks (or a little longer I forget) and it started developing mold. As long as you use it up within two days you should be fine. ;) Keep in mind it shrinks so you might have to adjust things after it dries, add fillers in gaps or whatever.. all in all it gives it an even more rustic look ;)
-
Better to go with foam trays, you can get cheap options from Kaiser-Rushforth and similar vendors.
Putting figures in shared spaces works for a bit, but invariably IMHO it ends up with chips in paint work and damage to bases.
A KR card carrying case is not much bigger than two shoe boxes in size and will do you for ~100 figures.
How about this one from Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/Feldherr-Storage-miniatures-tanks-monster/dp/B00W98CV26
I like the idea of a cardboard box, for storage on the bookshelf.
-
Well this is how I based them.. at least these four so far anyways.
Sand/Gravel. Espresso base, dry brush on a warm grey. I paint all my stone terrain pieces and dungeon tiles like this so it'll match. It will go well on the snow mat as well because I base the snow mat the same way (with the added stippled on Snow White paint).
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2zs68fr.jpg)
I might add some Snow White dry brushed highlights to the bases.. that way it'll be a cross between the play mat and the dungeon floor. It should still work fine in the dungeon and won't necessarily look like snow in the dungeon. Should make the pieces pop a bit more too no?
-
Another vote for the KR cases!
Liking those bases - a drybrush of white would do the trick I think, good idea!
-
Which KR tray number should I get? I see so many options. I have no clue.
EDIT: Would N4H be the one I want for Frostgrave Soldiers?
-
3D Printed Frost Worm. Printed in two sections and glued together with superglue. I like the way it turned out :) Cost me all of 45 cents to print.
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/ae/40/bc/13/8f/641b028ed716b551ebd7f61bc80418ca_preview_featured.jpg)
URL to STL model file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1359865 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1359865)
BUDS:
"Say Cheeeeezzzee ssSssss"
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/149bd6x.jpg)
I need four frost worms. I guess my next one will be the reaper great worm. I'll take a group photo when done :) Need to come up with another different one.. I think it'd be cool to have 4 different ones :)
-
Which KR tray number should I get? I see so many options. I have no clue.
EDIT: Would N4H be the one I want for Frostgrave Soldiers?
Yup, you should be able to get 6 of them to fit in the standard size card box, in three layers, giving you a total of 120 slots. You can easily snip out the foam to make the odd larger sized compartment for things like Ice Worms.
You can of course contact them directly to confirm this option.
-
Your welcome, thanks for the complement. Glad you found some stuff useful. A note regarding the toilet paper mache, don't make a batch bigger than you can use within a couple days. I had a bag sitting around for a couple weeks (or a little longer I forget) and it started developing mold. As long as you use it up within two days you should be fine. ;) Keep in mind it shrinks so you might have to adjust things after it dries, add fillers in gaps or whatever.. all in all it gives it an even more rustic look ;)
I will bear that in mind thanks that's good info
-
Yup, you should be able to get 6 of them to fit in the standard size card box, in three layers, giving you a total of 120 slots. You can easily snip out the foam to make the odd larger sized compartment for things like Ice Worms.
You can of course contact them directly to confirm this option.
What about foam board? Like the Dollar Tree foam here in the states. Big sheet for $1. I could cut into strips, peel paper and finger them together to make a grid. Would that be soft enough for the minis.. seems like it would. Could make them on the cheap :) I could also make a chipboard box with 12 x 12 chip board.. 33 cents per sheet... two of them for 1 box.. so 66 cents there. Maybe 40 cents in foam board. So like a dollar a piece and will sit nicely on bookshelf with colorful/artsy label on the side indicating contents.
-
Don't know what color I should paint the feather.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/33nhzyd.jpg)
-
Awesome!
I'd say green. Red and green work well together. Yellow should also work. Or, chop off the feather ;). I prefer those Revenants without feathers.
-
Thanks I was thinking green myself.
-
What about foam board? Like the Dollar Tree foam here in the states. Big sheet for $1. I could cut into strips, peel paper and finger them together to make a grid. Would that be soft enough for the minis.. seems like it would. Could make them on the cheap :) I could also make a chipboard box with 12 x 12 chip board.. 33 cents per sheet... two of them for 1 box.. so 66 cents there. Maybe 40 cents in foam board. So like a dollar a piece and will sit nicely on bookshelf with colorful/artsy label on the side indicating contents.
Don't know about the foam board, if its anything like the artists' foam board in the UK it should be ok, it may not be so great if you take your box on a lot of travels to games.
As for the rest, if you have time on your hands you can save some money. The chipboard might start weighing a lot. I built some trays from off cuts of hardboard and thin wood when I was younger and they wished as much as the figures.
-
I was about to buy N3HS from KR (N3H x 6). Had it in the basket and it said 21 quid. Then when I registered and put my American address in, it up the price quite significantly.. like from $25 to $35. This really upset me so I didn't order, but maybe I should still. They also increased the amount you have to buy to get free shipping. I'd have to spend like $125 or so to get free shipping.
Maybe I should still order the N3HS for the $35 plus $10 shipping.. i.e. $45.. or just under 40 quid in the UK.
-
Here's an excellent alternative to KR: Feldherr. They also sell through Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=A2VGQWFS5D0MOF&merchant=A2VGQWFS5D0MOF&redirect=true
-
I bought the six N3H from KR Multicase USA for $46 including shipping. It's like 6 quid per tray, not bad really.
I am going to make chipboard boxes for each tray and put on the bookshelf vertically with my board games. I'll cover them with paper and then add color printouts for the label/artwork. I'll take photos and share when I'm done with it :)
-
Took the whole day:
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/k2d79k.jpg)
I have three more that go with this set, for 10 total, but the three were soaking in simple green and it takes some time for the scent to go away.. so I held off on painting those.
-
Nice painting on them all. Thanks for sharing
-
Weapons and chainmail look brilliant. In bone and clothing, I wouldn't mind seeing deeper shadowing and/or dirt. But all in all, great quality all things considered.
-
I will echo the sounds of the former posters: very good, especially if these are some of your first miniature paintings!
-
Me too - nice work Jennifer!
-
I only did one coat of soft tone wash (army painter) then snapped the photo. Planned on adding a bit more after looking at the photo as well an hour or so after posting it here, especially in certain spots.
Thanks for the complements.
I did one coat of Soft Tone. Do you guys often do more than one coat of wash? I suppose I should of went with strong tone instead? It was pooling pretty badly in spots and had to soak it up with the brush so it didn't have a "sloppy" look. I am new to washing so I don't know all the tricks yet :)
-
For red the Strong Tone and Red Tone are perfect IMO. You can also use the Purple Tone with a thin wash. And then use pure red again to highlight the red.
And if you want to let it pop, add some yellow or white to the red. And finally a Red Tone wash to make the highlights more red and less orange or pink.
-
For red the Strong Tone and Red Tone are perfect IMO. You can also use the Purple Tone with a thin wash. And then use pure red again to highlight the red.
And if you want to let it pop, add some yellow or white to the red. And finally a Red Tone wash to make the highlights more red and less orange or pink.
Thanks, this is some pretty advanced stuff :) I need to experiment :)
-
I am going to order Foot Soldiers and Steppe Warriors from Annie today.
I had a question about the Fireforge Foot Soldier armor:
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2n9bx8w.jpg)
See the one second from the left. It looks like scales no? Or maybe it is just leather with a diamond pattern? I am not up on the history of armor (feel a bit stupid for asking).
Anyways, I was wondering if it would look ridiculous or not if I painted this silver and used a Dark Tone wash ... would this pass as "scale mail" ? I was thinking about using it for marksman (since they have a lot of crossbows and hand weapons).
-
I've seen it painted as both leather and scale mail. Both look good
-
I've seen it painted as both leather and scale mail. Both look good
Thank you :) Can't wait. Just ordered.
-
I am going to order Foot Soldiers and Steppe Warriors from Annie today.
I had a question about the Fireforge Foot Soldier armor:
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2n9bx8w.jpg)
See the one second from the left. It looks like scales no? Or maybe it is just leather with a diamond pattern? I am not up on the history of armor (feel a bit stupid for asking).
Anyways, I was wondering if it would look ridiculous or not if I painted this silver and used a Dark Tone wash ... would this pass as "scale mail" ? I was thinking about using it for marksman (since they have a lot of crossbows and hand weapons).
Scale mail could be made of either thick leather or metal scales. It was cheaper to produce than chainmail and almost as flexible. But not nearly as good protection, as the scales could be forced apart much more easily than the chained rings of chainmail.
See here for a replica of an historical example:
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/02/ef/47/02ef47e723447d8efb19ff2b82d45a36.jpg)
-
Look for some of the old GW undead horde ones on ebay. Should be dirt cheap and can be as simple as a single sword to paint that isn't bone.
Like these bad boys:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/28mm-Fantasy-Citadel-Games-Workshop-skeleton-lot-/272415186366?hash=item3f6d35ddbe:g:GSMAAOSwmLlYAtFZ
I won the auction for those and received them today. I paid quite a bit for htem too.. like $8.50 plus $4 shipping or so. The guy should of said in the description that they were incomplete. 9 of the 12 are missing the left arms.
Just asked him for a refund, despite in his description he does not offer refunds.
Don't you think she should of mentioned they were incomplete in the description? I don't think this fair at all despite there being a photo of the sprues. I assumed everything that was popped out of the sprues was sitting next to the sprues in assembled or partially assembled form. I did look at the sprues a bit and everything seemed okay.. didn't notice ALL the arms were popped out for some reason.. VERY suspicious.
EDIT: Really bumbed.. was looking forward to assembling and painting these in no time.. so easy them just being bones. Just base all bone, hit the weapon.. apply wash , base & done. Yeah I am definitely going to make this guy take these back.. how frustrating. Only 3 skeletons of all 12 of these have left arms. Anyone know of another sprue set of skeletons similar to the ones I was supposed to receive?
EDIT #2: I think I am just going to use the Undead Encounters skeletons I have for both skeletons and armored skeletons. I'll treat the ones without any chainmail as "unarmored" despite them having shield and helm.
-
I think it's reasonable to expect some form of disclosure if the kit is incomplete. Either "parts X and Y are missing" or "There may be parts missing' (if the seller is unsure and unwilling to check before hand).
There's laws about that sort of thing for big stuff like cars and houses. Little stuff like this is likely beneath notice, but the ethical standard is established.
And ultimately stuff like that is why Ebay and PayPal and such have their own resolution systems that can force the issue. Vendors hate them, but they serve a very legit purpose when confronted with bad vendors and bad vendor practices, so if you have a legit complaint, don't feel afraid to use them.
-
I won the auction for those and received them today. I paid quite a bit for htem too.. like $8.50 plus $4 shipping or so. The guy should of said in the description that they were incomplete. 9 of the 12 are missing the left arms.
Not good.
BUT: One solution is to get some instant mold with which you can easily make molds to pressmold copies of small missing parts (out of greenstuff or the likes). The stuff can be reused again and again for new projects. Maybe not the best solution for very thin parts like this, admittedly.
Alternatively - let me rummage through my undead bitz and see if I have some extra arms - looks like the original GW plastic skeletons of which I have quite a few sprues.
-
Not good.
BUT: One solution is to get some instant mold with which you can easily make molds to pressmold copies of small missing parts (out of greenstuff or the likes). The stuff can be reused again and again for new projects. Maybe not the best solution for very thin parts like this, admittedly.
Alternatively - let me rummage through my undead bitz and see if I have some extra arms - looks like the original GW plastic skeletons of which I have quite a few sprues.
I don't want to take your arms .. I need nine heh. Plus shipping would probably be expensive. Thanks for offer though. Best bet is to get this guy to refund me and take a loss of about $3 for return shipping. I wish I could find another set of unarmored skeletons sprues.
-
So I have a plan, in general, to make six of every character class, limiting each player to a max of 3 characters per class in a game. After going through the list, is there ever a time when someone would want three apothecaries? I don't know the game well enough yet to know.. I haven't even played one game yet. I just want to have everything ready to start playing. SO what should my plan be with respect to apothecaries? I plan on using the Frostgrave Soldier models for them because there clothign/armor looks a bit more like what an apothecary would wear.. whereas many other classes are covered well iwth hirdmen, dark age warriors, foot seargents and steppe warriors.
I can easily fashion a staff with all the spare spears I have. I'll fashion the potion bottles by hand.. what type of clay do you recommend for this? All I have right now is sculpey.
-
Wow... you've seriously spent a lot of time and energy making all that stuff!
It all looks amazing! But I think you should play the game before everything is done.
Make sure you like it.
-
Epoxy putty. Sculpy isn't that durable in small amounts, and needs to be baked at temps that can damage plastic minis. And I don't expect it would adhere well to metal minis (it's not designed with adhesion in mind the way epoxy is).
Green Stuff aka Kneadatite is the classic epoxy putty used by many. Personally, I recommend buying a big 'ol tub of Aves or MagicSculpt. It'll last you for years, and will have all kinds of uses (seriously: I got a 4 Lb. kit of Aves like 10 years ago, I use it for almost everything, and I'm only now hitting the bottom). Also it's IMO a better sculpting media than Green Stuff (more properly clay like). GS has it's niche advantages, so it's good to have some around, but for most stuff Aves r MS is both better and cheaper.
There's also Milliput, which is relatively cheap. I haven't used it, but from all I've read, you get what you pay for: it works, but not as well as the above, so it's better for bulk work.
...And finally there's hardware store epoxy putties. They're not made for sculpting at all, and aren't any cheaper by volume than the good stuff, so they're a weapon of last resort, for when you can't put a project on hold for an online order.
-
This is the one to get?
Ave's Apoxie Sculpt?
https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/B0013UDWXI
EDIT: Actually found it for like $9 instead of $17 .. 1/4 pound instead of 1 pound. If it lasts as long as you say, 1/4 pound should do me good for a long time.. and I won't have to invest as much to try it out:
https://www.amazon.com/Aves-Apoxie-Sculpt-White-pound/dp/B0013UFM7M
-
That's the stuff. I misspoke in my last post: I have a 1 pound kit, not a 4 pound, sorry about that.
It does get "old", in that the "A" part gets firmer and develops a yellow crust/film on top. But this is cosmetic: it still mixes and cures just fine, and you can refresh the A part by microwaving it soft and stirring the crust/film back in. Like I said, I've been working on this same 1 pound kit for a decade, and it's still works just as well as it did in the beginning.
I recommend getting the "natural" color (a slightly translucent grey) rather than any of the pre-colored stuff. It's easy to color however you want/need on a project-by-project basis by mixing in a dab of acrylic paint (though dry pigments are best), so the natural color is the most versatile.
Also, you want to keep whatever you're using to scoop and measure the A and B parts segregated to avoid cross-contaminating the containers, so I recommend getting a big box of craft store popsicle sticks. That way you can just use 'em and toss 'em willy-nilly instead of fussing over keeping scooping tools (or your fingers) clean as you go back and forth.
-
Oh yes, Apoxie Sculpt rocks. Used it a lot and love how it handles and reactes to water. Terrific putty 8)
-
I wish I could find another set of unarmored skeletons sprues.
Reaper do some unarmoured skeletons. Link is to the bones versions, but they do metal as well - bones link (http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/skeleton%20bones)
There are a couple of stickies in the main fantasy forum for cheap and quality fantasy miniatures. It may be worth a wander through some of those manufacturers to see what they have to offer.
-
Wow... you've seriously spent a lot of time and energy making all that stuff!
It all looks amazing! But I think you should play the game before everything is done.
Make sure you like it.
Well I think I am going to like it. And I can use the terrain and minis in other settings if I need to. Or can sell them painted as a set of like 75 soldiers.
-
Got my box of Steppe Warriors in the mail today. They look great. Starting to assemble one. First thing I notice is when I put the head of choice on the body I just assembled.. he was like looking up into the sky almost.. weird pitch. Are you suppose to file the necks down to get the pitch you desire or am I using the wrong head for this body?
-
If you can find a set, the skeletons made by Wargames Factory were pretty similar to the old GW ones, pretty much just standard unarmored skeletons with various melee weapons and shields. Wargames Factory got bought up by Warlord, though, and I don't know if they have any plans to re-release those guys :?
-
Papa Worm, Mama Worm & Baby Worm :)
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/2a8kdac.jpg)
-
Jennifer
I have recently made up the GW "push fit" box of skeletons and didn't use any of the left arms with shield attached so I have 5 spare. You are welcome to have these (no charge) if you decide not to send the original figures back.
John
-
Jennifer
I have recently made up the GW "push fit" box of skeletons and didn't use any of the left arms with shield attached so I have 5 spare. You are welcome to have these (no charge) if you decide not to send the original figures back.
John
That is very kind of you. Thank you for the offer. But the only reason I bought these is for unarmored skeletons as I already have the 10 armored skeletons from "Undead Encounters". The seller as already issued me a return shipping label. Thanks again :)
-
You are welcome. Glad you got the problem sorted out.
John
-
The Tavern of the Dead is growing every day. Bar back, kegs, wine bottles & ale mugs next. Also another oven, a stove & kitchen workbench. And a fireplace as well.
Have some stools and chairs to paint still, as you can see. All the tables, chairs & bar are 3D printer -- Curufin's work on Thingiverse.com. The bread oven is Devon Jone's work , and 3D printed as well -- I have it lit with a tea light but you can't see it in this photo.
I made four 6x6 tiles which are TrueTiles scale.. i.e. each square is 1.25 inches. So each of the 4 tiles are 7.5 inches square. I simply printed them out on my color laser printer and adhered to medium weight chipboard and cut with my paper cutter. (Adhered with Avery permanent glue stick, so it doesn't wrinkle the paper.)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2wexiev.jpg)
-
I'll be printing these in various shapes and sizes -- using a random crystal generator program for SCAD. I'll be experiementing with different wash colors and perhaps no wash at all.
This one I printed out in clear translucent, washed with Reaper Tropical Blue and Dry brushed with American Snow White.
Thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1775765
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d2/0f/fe/ea/f4/1d04930dde2e7e907f0073f4b0af428d_preview_featured.jpg)
-
This is all coming along very nicely - good stuff!
-
Thank you.
Comfey lil' tavern on the outskirts of Frostgrave:
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2ag6bnb.jpg)
-
Close up:
(Everything 3D printed except trees, battle mat & paper tile floor.)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/rhvkpc.jpg)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2lvnt49.jpg)
-
Lovely scenery!! Really nice painting.
-
Lovely scenery!! Really nice painting.
Thank you. Curufin is a genious.. his models do all the work I just dry brush lol. Also Devon Jones designed the bread oven STL.
-
The Other Half of the Tavern: Stone Fireplace
Still need to work on the base and wood fire. Darkness (Lucas) designed this fireplace STL -- it's available for free on Thingiverse as well. He's awesome! I made a post and said, hey there is no fireplace STL on thingiverse.. and he was like, wait I got one if you want it and he posted it -- such a nice guy.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2cp6ae0.jpg)
-
Just made another loaf of bread with sculpey (the one on the right) :
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/205qfd2.jpg)
-
Wow, those look super cool!
-
Very nice stuff here; love the tavern and that bread...! Good enough to eat. Excellent.
Doug
-
Printed out wine rack, wine bottles & tankards.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/ipa87c.jpg)
-
Baked a couple more sculpey loaves of bread :)
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/mbtp8m.jpg)
-
What price-tag 3D-printer are you using? I am still a bit undecided about whether to get one now/soon, or wait another couple of years.
-
What price-tag 3D-printer are you using? I am still a bit undecided about whether to get one now/soon, or wait another couple of years.
$329. Large community support for it and readily and easily available parts to replace if anythign breaks. Lots of people to help with mods & suppoprt on the Thingiverse.com group. I have the Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2. I bought it from Monoprice.com (they offer 30 day money back guarantee with free return shipping). Monoprice re-brands this printer as Monoprice Maker Select V2 -- it's the exact same printer.
Check out this thread I made about the printer and all the mods I made. I also give a lot of useful links in this thread.
Starting here: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/52173/thread
-
Bread Oven Workbench
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/1gm1e9.jpg)
-
$329. Large community support for it and readily and easily available parts to replace if anythign breaks. Lots of people to help with mods & suppoprt on the Thingiverse.com group. I have the Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2. I bought it from Monoprice.com (they offer 30 day money back guarantee with free return shipping). Monoprice re-brands this printer as Monoprice Maker Select V2 -- it's the exact same printer.
Check out this thread I made about the printer and all the mods I made. I also give a lot of useful links in this thread.
Starting here: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/52173/thread
Thanks, lots of food for thoughts, there!
-
Started painting my first Castle Ravenloft minis. (Received the board game a few days ago.)
I'll use these for constructs and possibly even as a minor demon.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2nbaa8n.jpg)
Any recommendations on how I should further highlight the garg would be appreciated. Just did the black and one dry brush with a warm medium to light gray. If I were to highlight more, do I just go with a tad lighter shade and hit certain areas? Which areas? Like the face and wing tips?
-
So very cool!
-
Finished the Gargs.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/1fd36.jpg)
-
They look great. My only suggestion would be a thin black wash in the eye sockets. (Hold/stabilize the figure so eyes are facing up until wash dries).
Are these available separately from the game box?
-
They look great. My only suggestion would be a thin black wash in the eye sockets. (Hold/stabilize the figure so eyes are facing up until wash dries).
Are these available separately from the game box?
I don't know for sure, as I am pretty new to all this. But if I recall, from what I've read, all the minis that come with the four D&D board games (Ravenloft, Ashard, Drizzt, TOEE) are available individually pre-painted.. and I believe unpainted as well (not sure). But you can find people selling these on ebay individually. People buy the board game just for minis to sell individually.
Regarding the mini, what will be the effect of the wash as it's pretty dark around the red anyways? I'm newb, so that's why I ask. I assume I'd have to rehighlight with red after I wash.. like a bright dot in the center.
-
I don't know for sure, as I am pretty new to all this. But if I recall, from what I've read, all the minis that come with the four D&D board games (Ravenloft, Ashard, Drizzt, TOEE) are available individually pre-painted.. and I believe unpainted as well (not sure). But you can find people selling these on ebay individually. People buy the board game just for minis to sell individually.
Regarding the mini, what will be the effect of the wash as it's pretty dark around the red anyways? I'm newb, so that's why I ask. I assume I'd have to rehighlight with red after I wash.. like a bright dot in the center.
Thanks for info on the figs. I'll go digging on ebay.
My thinking on the wash is to make the eye socket edges dark, so that your red eye and it's higlighting will contrast nicely. By having the eye socket facing up, you'll avoid all the wash draining to the bottom of the eye socket before it dries. Thin wash, lightly applied. Better to do several thin than one thick.
-
Thanks for info on the figs. I'll go digging on ebay.
In case you are interested at all in what comes in the Castle Ravenloft box see the following paint tutorial link -- the person shows a photo of each one painted.
http://blog.gamesparadise.com.au/2011/09/ravenloft-painting-guide/
It only cost me $45 including shipping for the game. It comes with 42 miniatures. Reason I got it was because it has a lot of monsters in it which can be used in Frostgrave. If you don't like the game, you can always break it apart and sell off the minis piece by piece, or by set on ebay. You'll get all your money back I presume.
-
Painted one of the Castle Ravenloft skeletons, have two more just like it to paint. Wanted to do one to see how it turned out. I am happy with this one.
(photo removed.. see next post, where I finished all three).
-
Finished the Castle Ravenloft Skeletons
(https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic3245030.jpg)
-
Making a set of 3D models for Tree/Terrain bases. See the following thread for more info:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/56641/thread
Can you even see the base? [You can if you zoom in.]
Geesh, I love these 3D prints! *smile* Easy to model in Blender as well.
(https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic3245202.jpg)
-
I made a set of nine 3D models freely available for download from Thingiverse.com for 3D printing.
I am just now finishing basing 32 trees in just a couple days. No more cutting, sanding, filing, warping, teetering, falling apart etc.. These are rock solid, rigid, perfectly flat and really blend in well with the battle mat.
Here is the link to the thread with more details:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/4148/jennifers-tree-bases
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/83/f9/5f/e4/a8/fce7cbdd97b99b56e65d9916d49ada0e_preview_featured.jpg)
-
Got all 32 trees based:
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/2qxnxx5.jpg)
-
So as I have mentioned before, (I got the idea from someone else here on the forum), I've made a house rule that a there can be no more than three of the same class on each team. So I decided to make 6 of each of the 15 character classes.
And so this means six apothecaries as well -- although I don't know if I'd ever use that many.. I just want to have them all on hand.. all 75 of the soldiers ... assembled at least (they can be painted later).
So here is what I came up for the apothecary using Frostgrave Soldiers Sprues, Fireforge Foot Sergeants and 3D printed potion bottle.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/fkpbaf.jpg)
I used the Frostgrave soldiers for the body and head (choosing a body that doesn't have the dagger attached to the left side). I chose the Foot Sergeants for the spears, which I chopped down to a staff. The offhand is Fireforge Foot Sergeants as well -- it's the one that holds the crossbow (already made all my crossbowmen and marksmen).
The 3D printed bottle is from:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:943062
-
How can I make those sleeves work with that? Do I need to fill them in with 2 part epoxy putty? Or just leave alone? They kind of look like cotton long john's.
-
I'd go with putty, covering the shoulders, and partially the chest and back, sort of a small cloak.
Andres
-
Thank you everyone for all the advice you've given me in the pasts posts. Wish there was a "thumbs up" or "high five" button for each post. *smile*
-
Finished the Castle Ravenloft Board Game spiders -- also to be used as spiders in Frostgrave.
(https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic3257397.jpg)
-
Those are great! Nice bold colours and great posing.
-
Nice spiders. Love the apothecarie conversion, the head is particuliary a good choice.
-
Awesome spiders! Good choice of vibrant colours, love the attacking pose they have :)
-
Thank you for the complements guys. *smiles*
-
Just thought I'd share my progress with the 75 Frostgrave Soldiers (6 each of all 15 character classes). They are all mashups of Frostgrave Soldiers, Viking Hirdmen, Dark Age Warriors, Foot Sergeants and Steppe Warriors.
Warhounds (Three from Annie and three will be 3D printed -- although smaller in scale than shown here).
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2mgm72o.jpg (warhounds))
Thugs
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/dvin3p.jpg)
Thieves
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/2jsi2p.jpg)
Archers
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2ahxrif.jpg)
Crossbowmen (the two in scales with be leather scale -- wish I would of saved these for templars but it's ok)
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/doot53.jpg)
Infantrymen -- still need to do these. Definitely have enough bits leftover for them. Need a couple more 2 handed weapons though.
Trackers (will put a bow on each of their backs -- bows from Steppe Warriors sprues)
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/203uk5.jpg)
Men-at-arms
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/5efswl.jpg)
Treasure Hunters (four will be from Frostgrave soldiers, and two others from steppe warriors / foot sergeants)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/1zg5f15.jpg)
Knights:
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/x0p9xu.jpg)
Templars: (a couple be from foot sergeants with scale mail armor)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/15e94jb.jpg)
Rangers (all six will be from Frostgrave soldiers sprues)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/154il4l.jpg)
Barbarians (thinking about the following set of metal figures) :
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0371/5545/products/bp13_1000pix_1024x1024.jpg?v=1402659652)
Apothecary (mentioned in previous post.. all six from Frostgrave Soldiers sprues with Foot Sergeant spears/arms)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/28u45eq.jpg)
Marksmen
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/14waxhd.jpg)
-
That's great kitbashing!! Good luck with all the painting, but at least you'll have a crowded frozen city in the end! !
-
got a linky dink to the dog STL. you 3d printed?
Here it is:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431981
I printed it in 3 parts on the same plate then glued together with superglue then filed the seams a bit (needs more).
-
That's great kitbashing!! Good luck with all the painting, but at least you'll have a crowded frozen city in the end! !
Thanks. Well I'll just do it one step at a time I guess :) Right now I just want to get all assembled. Then I think I'll start playing a lot of games with unpainted minis. Once I figure out what are good warbands, I'll start painting specific soldiers as I go I guess.
Good thing is that these can be used as NPC's, Hirelings, Henchmen etc in other games like DnD. PC's meet a band of thieves or archers. Or hire some thugs, men-at-arms or crossbowman etc..
-
I could use some advice finishing off the bases. Since I am going to do so many, and invest so much time, I want some really nice looking bases.
As you can see, there are a couple that I based with sand a few bits of gravel and painted dark dark brown then dry brushed on grey & light gray.
What do you think of these? Should I do all the same, or does it look a bit ugly?
I just recently bought some two part ave's apoxie epoxy putty. I could actually do little cobble stones on all the bases, workign around and slightly above the existing bases glued to the 3D printed bases. (Btw, I glued the sprues to the 3D printed bases with the Tamiya, so they aren't really removable now.. besides I didn't/don't want to file or cut the bases off the feet of 75 minis.. it's very time consuming no?)
-
All looking very good - nice work!
As for the basing, the two you have already done look good and should be simple enough to do in batches, thus saving you time. I suggest buying some snow flock though, and adding small patches (usual process - small blobs of PVA and then dip into the flock), just to make the bases pop a bit.
-
All looking very good - nice work!
As for the basing, the two you have already done look good and should be simple enough to do in batches, thus saving you time. I suggest buying some snow flock though, and adding small patches (usual process - small blobs of PVA and then dip into the flock), just to make the bases pop a bit.
Thanks, do you think they'd look better with cobblestone instead? I figured they way they are no they'd work both in a dungeon (since the color of my tiles is the same) and outside.
Ideally I like the idea of a flat black surface like I've done with my Castle Ravenloft miniatures. I think that has a really good look. But I could never get them that flat looking with the putty.
-
Yeah, the cobblestone look will work fine - I'm just biased as my stuff is based with grit and snow ;D
-
Why not use some plastic Frostgrave Barbarians for your needed barbarian models?
-
Why not use some plastic Frostgrave Barbarians for your needed barbarian models?
I didn't know they exist. THere is a sprue set for barbarians?
-
I like your sand/gravel bases just fine. Maybe consider buying a bag of hobby bricks or cut up sprue to add some "chunk" to them? Another option is the new Renedra pave-stone bases --- but that would involve removing all of your figures from the puddlebases which would be a huge pain in the butt.
For my dungeon games I do similar to your bases...ballast of a couple different sizes with some bricks laid on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/Elbaus/CCC%20Project/MenatArms2_zpsqplhlrfk.jpg)
-
I didn't know they exist. THere is a sprue set for barbarians?
Yeah, they just released for people who participated in the Forgotten Pacts Nickstarter. The general release of them I don't think will be until next week.
-
That is so awesome! I really look forward to these Barbarians!
-
I like your sand/gravel bases just fine. Maybe consider buying a bag of hobby bricks or cut up sprue to add some "chunk" to them? Another option is the new Renedra pave-stone bases --- but that would involve removing all of your figures from the puddlebases which would be a huge pain in the butt.
For my dungeon games I do similar to your bases...ballast of a couple different sizes with some bricks laid on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/Elbaus/CCC%20Project/MenatArms2_zpsqplhlrfk.jpg)
Thanks I love the idea of the brick shaped pieces of rubble on the bases, your minis look nice.
-
All looking very good - nice work!
As for the basing, the two you have already done look good and should be simple enough to do in batches, thus saving you time. I suggest buying some snow flock though, and adding small patches (usual process - small blobs of PVA and then dip into the flock), just to make the bases pop a bit.
I was going to try and keep the snow off the bases, so I could use them in any game if possible. For any setting.
-
I was going to try and keep the snow off the bases, so I could use them in any game if possible. For any setting.
Multi-purposing - the new black of gaming! :D
-
I really like your painting style! Very nice work 8)
-
I've done mine in this style. The goal was a non-descript/generic effect, so I could use them above or below ground, indoors or out. My next group of figs will probably not have as much "chunky" ballast, instead more of a finer mix. These were a rush job to get them fielded for our first game.
(http://i.imgur.com/i04T5UM.jpg)
-
:o lookin great!!!
-
I like the black borders on the bases. I think I'll be doing that after I base them with the gravel. Gives it a nice clean look.
I like how you put pre-colored gravel on the bases instead of dry brushing after. Gives it a real natural look.
What mix of gravel(s) did you use to get that look?
Thanks,
Jennifer
-
Working on my modular river for my custom Frostgrave mat. Both mat and modular rivers are made of flexible heavy canvas.
More details here: http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/57926/thread
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/2e1wqdv.jpg)
-
Looks good!
-
Thanks Avid. *smiles*
Acquired these four minis for $8 total (including shipping) from ebay a couple weeks back and painted two of them: a templar and a Barbarian -- both of which are lead.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2vvuud0.jpg)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/23scgp1.jpg)
-
The gaming mat looks very effective!
-
Painted the Knight as well.
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/j9sqba.jpg)
-
My first paper ruins. Color laser print (with high drum heat) adhered to medium weight chipboard with Avery Permanent Glue Stick.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/wguuf.jpg)
-
Wow! Those look terrific! What do you mean with "high drum heat"?
-
Wow! Those look terrific! What do you mean with "high drum heat"?
Well before printing, a laser printer heats up the drum so it can melt the plastic toner that has been statically attracted to the paper. If the heat isn't hot enough, the toner flakes off the paper at any time later on. The higher the heat the more the plastic toner melts and better bonds to the paper.
Try printing out something with solid black on your laser printer and then scratch at it with fingernail. If it flakes, try printing out again with a hotter drum (i.e. changing media type to say cardstock or something heavy) -- you'll notice it takes longer for the item to print because of the extra time involved bringing the drum up to sufficient heat.
-
Good info on that, thanks!
-
My first paper ruins. Color laser print (with high drum heat) adhered to medium weight chipboard with Avery Permanent Glue Stick.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/wguuf.jpg)
How did you cut the chipboard? I'm assuming it was with an electric scroll saw or somesuch, as trying to cut that manually would have driven me crazy o_o.
Did you cut before or after gluing? Thinking about it more in terms of colouring the background areas of the chipboard, which would have been easier pre-glue, but then you have to transfer the outline to the chipboard separately, rather than being able to use the paper scenery as a guide.
Whichever approach you took, it looks really good, and very sturdy (always a drawback with paper/card) :)
-
Thanks for the complements.
Regarding how I constructed it, see the following thread for more details:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/57957/thread
-
Ran out of yellow color laser toner, so the paper ruins set is on hold (going to do like 10 ruins or so).
But that didn't deter me. Chopped up Curufin's (www.heroshoard.com) 3D printed tudor cottage with metal shears and painted.
For more details:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/58031/thread
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2vc9b7p.jpg)
-
Added the wooden floor -- medium weight chipboard, ball point pen, ruler & paint. For more details see the following link:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/58037/thread
I'll be doing the walls and adding the door and beams etc.
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/k4h55v.jpg)
-
Just painted a 3D printed Bullette. I'll figure out some way to make this critter work in Frostgrave :)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2h36f74.jpg)
-
Just painted a 3D printed Bullette. I'll figure out some way to make this critter work in Frostgrave :)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2h36f74.jpg)
Could work very well for a Devourer from the Into the Breeding Pits book.
-
Thank you :) I'll use it for that then :)
First time using epoxy putty and first time attempting a stone brick base:
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/eg7s5.jpg)
Here it is painted:
(A few more touch ups and I'll seal it.. need to finish weapon handle and clean the pink paint off helm.)
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/sw60eh.jpg)
I had glued the mini to the 3D printed base with superglue. (It's a pewter mini). I was going to put sand and gravel on the base and paint & dry brush, but decided to try the epoxy this time.
(Paid two dollars for this mini -- half painted -- from ebay including shipping.. not bad.)
-
I guess this could be used in Frostgrave. I printed it out on 3D printer and painted it. After painting, I added some sparse coined size (coarse / round) glitter.
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/43/82/7c/1f/da/34397ba3b577584381a52a4b6987345d_preview_featured.jpg)
More details here:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/58522/thread
-
Very nice!
-
I'm so jealous of your skill and collection. A real inspiration! :)
-
Good work all around. Thought the glitter worked very well, wouldn't have thought of that myself.
-
That round glitter works a treat, is it just from a hobby store?
-
That round glitter works a treat, is it just from a hobby store?
It should be. I think I got that from the dollar tree -- here in the states-- for a dollar (quid).
-
It should be. I think I got that from the dollar tree -- here in the states-- for a dollar (quid).
Cheers, I'll keep my eyes peeled when visiting similar stores, and hobby/DIY ditto. So much easier than cutting coins from plastic rod!
-
Argonor
if interested in very small round discs try searching e-bay for nail painting accessories - apparently they use them as part of their art and are cheap as chips.
best
Joe
-
Argonor
if interested in very small round discs try searching e-bay for nail painting accessories - apparently they use them as part of their art and are cheap as chips.
best
Joe
Will have a look, thanks!
-
for some who has been doing this for less than 12 months, I will take my hat off to you.
Inspired work on your scenery and your painting has come along in leaps and bounds.
Well done, very well done!
-
Blender mashup -- ductmogul's coin pile & curufin's general store STL's. (3D Printed as one piece).
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/4b/5d/04/9e/fd/DSC_1314.jpg)
-
Scrying Pool by Dutchmogul on thingiverse.com. I guess it could be used as a Well of Dreams & Sorrows as well -- no pun intended.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2hp2elu.jpg)
-
Great stuff as always. Really likehow you're using all those 3d printed things.
That well could also be used as a cauldron for game 8 in the Lich Lord Campaign
-
Great stuff as always. Really likehow you're using all those 3d printed things.
That well could also be used as a cauldron for game 8 in the Lich Lord Campaign
Thanks! I don't have the Lich Lord book yet, but good to know it works well for that! :) I already have a Well of Dreams and Sorrows -- much bigger :) This is 50mm in diameter -- the scrying pool that is.
-
For your treasure piles, you might want to hit them with a very light, brown wash to let it blend a bit better into a cohesive look. While the larger glitter works great for gold coins, they're a bit to bright without the slight effect that makes them look somewhat off.
-
For your treasure piles, you might want to hit them with a very light, brown wash to let it blend a bit better into a cohesive look. While the larger glitter works great for gold coins, they're a bit to bright without the slight effect that makes them look somewhat off.
I've already washed the treasure piles twice with Army Painter soft tone.. before adding the glitter. I think they look great honestly. Looks very natural to me. Maybe just my own taste. Anyways, they are sealed now with varnish.
-
Started on the set of twelve gorgeous Ristul's Treasure Chest minis. Got them from Annie (The Dice Bag Lady); website: www.badsquiddogames.com
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/2iqbvrt.jpg)
-
chests look great...nice work! :D
-
Thanks :)
Printed most of Curufin's -- Hero's Hoard -- Torture Chamber Accessories and almost done painting. Just figured I'd share. I am not sure if it can be used with some Frostgrave expansion or not. I guess there could be a custom scenario or something.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/29q09xk.jpg)
-
Lovely work, they would be ideal for filling up a dungeon set up using 'Into the Breeding Pits'.
-
Thanks :)
Here's my treasure stuff so far. About half of what will be available.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/149b411.jpg)
-
Both Great looking and I agree: the torture instruments could easily be used in a dungeon chamber of the breeding pits :D. Is this stuff from Thingiverse?
-
Both Great looking and I agree: the torture instruments could easily be used in a dungeon chamber of the breeding pits :D. Is this stuff from Thingiverse?
Curufin gives away the head chopping block for free alogn with an axe. He has link to purchase STL pack. It's only $8.95 and was well worth it to me. He put so much work into those.
Here's a link to the thingiverse.com page:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1964541
-
Modular River revisited.
Decided I want to try out some 3D printed modular tiles.
Working out the paint job before make the dozen or so tiles.
Please criticsize. I want to improve it as much as is reasonable.
I'll add the Liquitex Medium Viscosity High Gloss Gel after I get the paint job worked out. Ignore the print lines from the 3D printer that are showing, this is just a test piece. The final pieces will have a coat of modeling past on the river bottom before basing so these lines won't show.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/f2pilx.jpg)
-
Dammit, I'll have to start saving up for that darn printer... o_o
-
@Jennifer: Thanks for the link! I think it's worth the price.
-
Please criticsize. I want to improve it as much as is reasonable.
Cant criticize the print. For the bead I would use either greens or browns since most rivers are either. My suggestion for the water is somewhat different. Here is a link on how to use Envirotex lite.
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#plan (http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#plan)
The material comes out rock hard and looks so much better than any other product. The toot is for a dungeon waterway but the technique is valid for rivers.
In the states you can find it at Home depot and the like. It is used to cover tabletops. In the UK I have only seen it on amazon and ebay.
Hope that helps.
Snitchy sends.
-
Messing around with some cavern stuff. Tiles are made of that workbench neoprene mat stuff.. like 2 quid per 24x24 inch.
Hirst arts scatter terrain adds to the look quite a bit :) Only need a few here and there .. it's implied that the tile borders/edges are all lined with them (cavern walls).
I just made the cavern door/arch a couple hours ago with sculpey. My first sculpture, besides bread :)
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/10rrbz7.jpg)
-
I have to say, you do some lovely work; a real pleasure to look at and so prolific...! (there should be a "jealous" icon).
Doug
-
Thanks for the complement.
Cavern Tavern
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2eav6yo.jpg)
-
Did a remix of the bubble pools that is on thingiverse. Detached them from the tiles for use with any terrain such as a battle mat, etc.. Made it available on thingiverse at the following URL. Cost me like 10 cents to print both and they look great! :) Other scatter terrain is the Hirst ARts Water Cavern Mold #82.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2029482
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/19/90/dc/23/c3/accf6a06e41e03e0f7cecd38c38bace3_preview_featured.jpg)
-
Beautiful work. This whole thread is inspiring!
-
Free-standing Stalagmite Cluster (Remix) -- it's the piece at the bottom of the photo in the middle.
I made it available on Thingiverse.com:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2029759
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/b6/c4/9e/b6/b1/ecafe69448904eef3f71a1487a978bd0_preview_featured.jpg)
-
That cavern system is sly! The arch doorways mate the chambers perfectly and in any configuration. So stealing this. Thank you.
-
That cavern system is sly! The arch doorways mate the chambers perfectly and in any configuration. So stealing this. Thank you.
Thanks. I feel much more like I'm in a cave/cavern with these tiles vs. the squareness of cavern tile systems like: Dwarven Forge, Hirst Arts and others.
It's so simple. The circlular/oval tiles have implied cavern walls everywhere except where you put a door or say put some other opening. And it only requires just a few pieces of scatter terrain to let the player get the feel of it.. their mind pretty much fills in all the rest of the walls :) Love it. DM Scotty turned me onto this system. Tilescapes #14 video on youtube.
Love the openness of it as well. Players can see everything in the cave.
-
Here is a screenshot of DM Scotty showing off his Ice Cavern system using this paradigm.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/mn2dkw.jpg)
-
Made this gorgeous huge stalagmite out of hot glue and toilet paper roll for armature. Filled with sand for weight -- completely sealed off with hot glue all the way around (so no chance to leak).
Very happy with the way it turned out. Took two long sticks of hot glue though lol.
Mushroom is on a 25mm base, so you can get a sense of scale.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/mjl1g4.jpg)
Beforing painting (partial black bombing):
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2iviw09.jpg)
-
Really nice work!
LB
-
That is going to be a fun layout to play on!
-
That is going to be a fun layout to play on!
Thanks, once I get this done, I plan on making like a few more sets but in different colors :)
1) The tan/brown caves -- which I am working on now
2) Ice Caves (for Frostgrave and what not)
3) Turquoise
4) Purple
5) And of course gray
6) Lava / Fire version as well :)
I just bought Hirst Arts Water Cavern Molds #81 and #82 .. since I'll be making so many variations :) Going to be loads of fun. Once I make a gazillion casts, I can then sell off hte molds and probably get 75% or so of the cost back :) Or I can keep the molds and trade the water cavern casts for other Hirst Arts casts I need that others may have molds for.
-
You're doing some very inspiring work on this thread. Will keep watching with great interest.
-
Printable Scenery Stalagmite -- bottom right of photo.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2ex7j1h.jpg)
-
Wowie! That cavern table will be awesome to play on :-*
-
Looks like we're all coming over to your house Jennifer! Great work as always.
-
Thanks for the complements.
For anyone interested here's I painted these:
1) base coat: espresso brown (a very dark brown, almost black).
2) sponge on / stipple brush (if smaller item) : americana burnt umber -- two passes. Most of it should be burnt umber but dark brown showing here and there.
3) sponge on / stipple brush, sparsely but with some pressure: american burnt sienna .. I make "hot spots" here and there with this.
4) spong on / stipple brush: americana cocoa, all over, lightly , two passes.
4) very light spond / very light stipple brush: mix of americana cocoa and white (about 50/50 maybe a bit more white). I use a very dry brush or lightly loaded sponge for this and light pressure.
Here's how I made the mats:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wLB_hzWQCs&list=PLvHnaAPK1_JjsuhUzd_kOSr7MXldfx2fD&index=15
-
WOAAAAAH! That is just too awesome and so simple to do! So going to steal this one...
Many thanks!
-
I like how quick of a setup it is and how easy it is to slide around the cavern rooms with all the props on it without disturbing anything. Imagine trying to do that with a million little dwarven forge tiles.. like build the dungeon on the fly as the players explore it.. this usually requires some sliding around of things as they progress through it. So easy with this and not too many bits to setup for each room.. just a stalagmite here and there or whatever else. You can have a pile of stalagmites sitting there on the table that you draw from.
-
If one really wants to use this system for his or her cavern, and say doesn't have the Hirst arts stalagmite molds, doesn't have a 3D printer nor wants to craft them.. there is an affordable solution.
Dwarven Forge stalagmite pack -- unpainted it is about 45 quid.
https://shop.dwarvenforge.com/collections/cavern-unpainted/products/stalagmite-pack-dungeon-gray
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0644/2359/products/GT5-SP-U_302e27b1-31bc-4198-a1af-e78be0461c58_1024x1024.jpg?v=1447367141)
I am thinking about getting it myself for some more variety.. Just one pack.
-
*curmudgeon speak*
Have you considered a bit of edging of the tiles? Unless you're planning on combining small into large, a suggestion of upcurve-to-walls would make 'em snap, though add more work to the work I'm not attempting anyway.
And, no, I've not read the entire thread; what kind of curmudgeon would I be if I gathered all the facts?
The very idea!
*/curmudgeon speak*
:D
Doug
-
Working on some sculpey shrooms.
I spent like 5 minutes on these four using just the back end of a pocket knife and the ends of two different brushes.
I'll have my cavern filled with shrooms in no time! :)
Cost is like 2 cents per shroom I am estimating.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/24domli.jpg)
-
Cavern Archway
So I need several of these 3 inch wide, about 3 inch tall Cavern Archways and don't feel like making them out of sculpey.
So I sculpted it in Blender today. I am printing it now. I'll make available after I've printed this one and painted it.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2e6aumh.jpg)
-
Finished painting this round of shrooms.
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/7b/96/60/4e/bc/b43722d6d1ba8063a9f6700fe16f70c8_preview_featured.jpg)
-
Cavern Archway is complete. I made it available for free on Thingiverse.com.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2035167
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/68/2d/f0/8e/89/a8ec5f41c59ca729c94c0ee9cf907267_preview_featured.jpg)
-
I somehow missed this thread. Very inspirational. Thanks Jennifer. I backed a Kickstarter 3d printer. Which should arrive in a month or 2 so I will
steal borrow some ideas.
Cheers,
Za
-
More splendid stuff! 8)
-
I somehow missed this thread. Very inspirational. Thanks Jennifer. I backed a Kickstarter 3d printer. Which should arrive in a month or 2 so I will steal borrow some ideas.
Cheers,
Za
Cool! Looks like 3-D printers are becoming more and more popular. DM Scotty just bought one. I wonder if Mel the terrain tutor has got one yet. I'm sure he has.
Printing off a second archway now.
-
Got my first Hirst Arts molds in the mail today. Water Cavern #81 and #82. Can't wait to start casting. Never done this before! :)
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2cz7d45.jpg)
-
Additionally, I am sure most of you already know this. YOu can buy like 2 casts of #81 (in hydrostone) for $5 plus shipping on ebay. Same for cast #82. If you order a bunch at one time I am sure the shipping would be quite affordable. Can get quite a pile of these gorgeous looking stalagmites for these cavern tiles, for fairly cheap.
Also without the time and mess of casting them yourself.
-
Idea for plaster casting: add some black pigments to the plaster mix to make them dark grey in colour. I think it is nigh unavoidable to get chipping on plaster casts... And nothing is more annoying than those stark white chips. With some pigment it will be dark grey.
-
Idea for plaster casting: add some black pigments to the plaster mix to make them dark grey in colour. I think it is nigh unavoidable to get chipping on plaster casts... And nothing is more annoying than those stark white chips. With some pigment it will be dark grey.
Good idea thanks. Would it stain my molds?
-
Good idea thanks. Would it stain my molds?
No. Even if it did it would not affect your use of the mold. My suggestion to you is to spend out for a strong plaster such as Hydrostone or Merlin's Magic. Plaster of Paris will not stand up to any use whatsoever no matter how much you try to stabilize the surface. You can tint the plaster but in my experience since it does not make much difference since once cast a chip will look like a chip. Hope that helps.
Snitchy sends.
-
No. Even if it did it would not affect your use of the mold. My suggestion to you is to spend out for a strong plaster such as Hydrostone or Merlin's Magic. Plaster of Paris will not stand up to any use whatsoever no matter how much you try to stabilize the surface. You can tint the plaster but in my experience since it does not make much difference since once cast a chip will look like a chip. Hope that helps.
Snitchy sends.
I am using ThePlasterGuys.com hydrostone.
-
Cast a few. Dried, glued and painted.
Lava Cavern:
(Base coat: Americana Primary Yellow. Dry brush of Americana Cherry Red. Finally metallic black dry brush.)
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/wj6xoi.jpg)
Ice Cavern (just need to gloss it up) :
(Base Coat: Americana Calypso Blue, Dry brush Americana Snow white. Dollar Tree Glitter Glue. Modge Podge Gloss sealant -- still drying and will be glossier than photo currently depicts.)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2vmsvwy.jpg)
-
Okay, got like a dozen of these hirst arts scatter terrain pieces painted. Have 5 doors now.. printed off four of the ones I designed in blender.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2e3oh28.jpg)
-
Great stuff, it's all coming together really well! :)
-
Here's all the cavern archways and scatter terrain that I have so far. The bubble pools and other pools will be repainted / painted, then filled with clear acrylic water. I just have to settle on a color.
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/59/b1/50/b8/bc/a415354b70917275925565292d178579_preview_featured.jpg)
-
Working on cool centerpiece for my cavern. Just the one. Making it entirely of rigid insulation styrofoam, bbq skewers, toothpicks & hot glue.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2rc7m79.jpg)
-
Will be an amazing sight - you need to store it carefully, though! :)
I gather, it can be turned upside down for different looks when finished?
-
Will be an amazing sight - you need to store it carefully, though! :)
I gather, it can be turned upside down for different looks when finished?
You make a good point. I didn't want that. This is the first time making one of these. Looked at some others again. I think it's more attractive now :) Smaller top and not flat on top.
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/2e3r09w.jpg)
-
:o fantastic stuff.
-
Incredible! :o
-
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/c8/c4/09/0a/4e/DSC_1487.jpg)
-
Toched it up a bit to lighten it. Let me know what you think. I am still not happy with the paint nor texture to be honest.
Bleh I got too eager with the Cocoa when touching up. So pissed off at this piece I feel like throwing it away.
Gonna have to repaint it entirely. I might have to do a bunch with some sort of filler as it looks way too chiseled.
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/ic0fao.jpg)
-
Okay finally got a paint job I am happy with. Just applied Army Painter Strong Tone wash all over what I last did and it toned down that cocoa. After that dried I gave a VERY LIGHT dusting at the highest points of my highlight color: 50/50 Americana Cocoa + Americana Snow White.
Happy enough with it now.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/16hw9a9.jpg)
-
Oh that cave ceiling is slick! Very nicely done.
-
Thanks.
Or just use the piece as a non-connected centerpiece. I like this a lot:
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/zlw5mo.jpg)
-
...wow...8)
-
Mushroom Bases
I need some bases for my hand sculpted mushrooms. I decided to go with an eroded mound look.
Here's my first one with sculpey.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/jai2jq.jpg)
I also sculpted one in blender and printed it out -- which I'll make available on thingiverse.com after I've painted it and mounted the mushrooms on it (just want to make sure it looks good first).
(http://oi68.tinypic.com/2md2g0o.jpg)
-
Both turned out fine.
Blender sculpted, availabe on thingiverse.com
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2040616
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ae/19/cf/34/ae/c2fc57af72087c4b28628c084336470c_preview_featured.jpg)
Sculpey sculpted:
(http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ab/68/17/eb/6d/50628279b83883fa885ad37134d261f0_preview_featured.jpg)
-
Messing around with molds. Made my first with "Silicone I" & Cornstarch mixture (with a little pink paint added in for color).
Made a mold of the eroded cavern base (above) that I sculpted earlier today with sculpey.
Here it is:
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/2gxel2x.jpg)
And my first cast with it, using hydrostone (it's what I had on hand):
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/23thzzd.jpg)
Original sculpey sculpt:
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/jai2jq.jpg)
-
Ice Caves Baby!
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/ed/03/6f/23/24/0f322d912b92ccb772c8fc562ad8b7f0_preview_featured.jpg)
-
Messing around with lava cavern ideas. Too many cracks.. probably 40 instead of 200 per tile would be about right. Fewer yellow cracks as well would be good.. mostly orange and red cracks would be better.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/rgyplw.jpg)
-
This lava tile is a bit better. I'll get it.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/14w3aj6.jpg)
-
That second one looks a lot less busy - god work as always. Maybe try gently highlighting the black bits with a dark grey, to show where the rocks have cooled in between the lava cracks.
-
Worked on some Hirst Arts scatter terrain along with stalagmite. Ignore the base, a failed experiment.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/25tu5aw.jpg)
-
:o love it in snow paintjob too. good work
-
Messing around in Blender
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/2mw580.jpg)
-
Base is made of sculpey and so are the shrooms. Added coarse sand here and there. Glued shrooms to base with sculpey glue (re-baked). White dots applied with small ball end of sculpey tool.
Looking for suggestions as to what I can add here and there around shrooms. Maybe some sort of growth? Would greenery be okay in a brown/tan cavern? I guess it would since this is a fantasy world :) I just want something to make the whole piece really POP! thanks.
(http://oi63.tinypic.com/nfo3ed.jpg)
-
Ice Cavern Tile prototype. Could use some feedback thanks. Used pencil to make cracks on rigid insulation (pink styro). Used back end pencil to texture the tile using back and forth sweeping motions, at random angles.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/2h5k9oj.jpg)
-
Did my first sculpey monster sculpture ever. Wire armature, rest is sculpey.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2jb0fw9.jpg)
-
Awesome!
Looks great
-
Yes, for a first effort that's impressive!
-
very cool... 8) FEAR THE TREE!!!
-
Yes, for a first effort that's impressive!
Indeed.
Nice brushwork too.
:-* :-*
-
Very nice!
-
looking good! lots of inspiration here.
-
Smashing sculpt - tree-mendous in fact! (C'mon, someone had to say it)
-
Thanks for all the complements.
Here is a photo of it as I was building it.
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/307xf1c.jpg)
-
Sculpey is a polymer clay that has to be baked, right? So how long did you have to bake it?
-
Sculpey is a polymer clay that has to be baked, right? So how long did you have to bake it?
I baked that treant for 45 minutes at 270F / 132C. 15 mins per 1/4" or so.
-
Working on another one.
(http://oi66.tinypic.com/10xxeaf.jpg)
(http://oi67.tinypic.com/29d3qw.jpg)
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/349f8y8.jpg)
-
Somebody called me a 'machine' just the other day, for having a lot of things going on...
I think you deserve that label more than me (in the most positive way). Impressive, most impressive! And inspirational!
Is it the creature known as 'roper'?
-
Somebody called me a 'machine' just the other day, for having a lot of things going on...
I think you deserve that label more than me (in the most positive way). Impressive, most impressive! And inspirational!
Is it the creature known as 'roper'?
Yep, working on a roper :) Still need to add the rock detail of the stalagmite it is attempting to imitate :)
-
What do you think about the texture? Would it fit in with a cavern? I know it would go well in Bryce Canyon.
It looks more like erosion vs. stalagmite. Don't know if there are ever eroded columns in a water cavern.
Maybe this is just a stupid roper trying to fit in and not doing the greatest at imitating a stalagmite :)
I kind of like the texture because it also looks like wrinkled skin which this alien might have.
(I still don't know what to do about the eyes.)
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/21lvihk.jpg)
-
Yep, working on a roper :) Still need to add the rock detail of the stalagmite it is attempting to imitate :)
Haha, hadn't read the header. He looks fine to me.
-
A quick question, if you don't mind: How tall objects can you print on your 3D-printer, please?
-
A quick question, if you don't mind: How tall objects can you print on your 3D-printer, please?
180 mm tall
200mm x 200 mm in the x and y dimensions
This is the Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Monoprice Maker Select
-
180 mm tall
200mm x 200 mm in the x and y dimensions
This is the Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Monoprice Maker Select
Thanks! I am contemplating saving up the bucks for this one:
https://sculpto.dk/
-
Thanks! I am contemplating saving up the bucks for this one:
https://sculpto.dk/
I went for the Wanhao because it has the largest community group of all 3D printers, on Thingiverse.com. Tons of downloadable mods for it that you can print. I've done at least a dozen mods to improve performance.
I don't know much about that printer -- first I've seen it.
Might want to do some searches on Thingiverse.com and check out the Thingiverse groups.
-
Roper is looking really good.
I'm getting a 'Day of the Tentacle' feel from it, but I'm fine with that :D
-
I'm satisfied. I'll gloss the eye later, once I am set on the color and shape. Matches the cavern perfectly of course since I used the same paint scheme. That's good.
(https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/64/e6/7b/54/74/DSC_1570.jpg)
-
Fantastic!
-
:o came out fab....nice work :D
-
Very nice, very old skull D&D !
:)
-
You do fantastic work Jennifer. This guy would fit in to 1950's retro sci-fi as well.
-
Thanks for the complements guys! :)
Wanna come play in my caverns? :) I am really liking the way they turned out. I have like two dozen Hirst scatter pieces, nine 3d printed cavern archways, lots of other 3D printed scatter terrain. Sculpey shrooms. And the huge centerpiece with stalagmites on ground and ceiling. I have enough tiles and scatter terrain & doors to fill a 4x4 table, for a gigantic cavern :) Yep, I've gone a bit cavern crazy lol.
Need more cavern beasties though. Any suggestions for other cavern beasts?
-
Need more cavern beasties though. Any suggestions for other cavern beasts?
Carrion Crawlers? Rust Monsters? Giant centipedes/scolopendras? Bats?
-
Just wanted to say the simplicity of the cavern floor plan is pure genius! Consider that idea nicked. Now if only I had some time to do something with it! :)
-
The roper looks like a really fun model. He's a big one but he probably stuffed a lot of adventurers down that gaping piehole :).
-
I am selling all my frostgrave stuff. If anyone wants anything let me know. I'll be putting most of it up on ebay over the next month or so.
Right now my three Frost Worms are on ebay as a set. Just do a search: "Frostgrave Worms".
-
Oh dear, I hope there isn't a tragic story behind dumping all the hobby stuff? (I did once have to rescue an entire 20mm Panzer Division from the bin after a particularly 'intense' discussion with wife no 1. about my time management.)
-
I don't like to advertise here but I am selling half box of FireForge Foot Seargeants (for 24 minis) and half box of Fireforge Steppe Warriors (for 12 minis).. they kitbash well together for interesting Frostgrave minis. I wish someone had sold 50/50 on ebay bakc when I bought these.. I only needed half a box of each.
Anyways, I figured I share here because I wanted people here to be able to take advantage of it, and get the minis for the game without having to buy full boxes like I did. Ebay search: "kit bash fireforge". However I am in the US. Don't know how many people from USA are on these forum.
-
I don't like to advertise here but I am selling half box of FireForge Foot Seargeants (for 24 minis) and half box of Fireforge Steppe Warriors (for 12 minis).. they kitbash well together for interesting Frostgrave minis. I wish someone had sold 50/50 on ebay bakc when I bought these.. I only needed half a box of each.
Anyways, I figured I share here because I wanted people here to be able to take advantage of it, and get the minis for the game without having to buy full boxes like I did. Ebay search: "kit bash fireforge". However I am in the US. Don't know how many people from USA are on these forum.
Did you take down your FireForge stuff?
Grimm
-
I LOVE scratch-building my terrain, too. Great job on what you've done. Welcome aboard...
Mike Demana
www.firstcommandwargames.com
http://leadlegionaries.blogspot.com/
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/mikedemana/Miscellaneous/LPL_bades_zpsl7op2jaz.jpg)