Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Fantasy Adventures => Frostgrave => Topic started by: Jennifer on February 26, 2016, 01:56:55 PM
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Does it make sense to practice painting metal miniatures first before attempting to paint the plastic Frostgrave soldiers box set?
I am new to painting minis, but figure I can learn quickly enough. But I don't want to mess up the plastic miniatures. I figured if I practiced on metal ones, and if I mess up, it'd be pretty easy to clean them and do another attempt?
If this is so, I'll just order a few metal Frostgrave wizard/apprentice sets along with the plastic soldiers and do them first.
What do ya think?
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As I hinted at in your other thread I got a couple of really cheap individual historicals sprues from e-bay both for extra bits and to practise painting on some disposable bodies.
This was just as well as I hadn't fully appreciated how careful you need to be when applying plastic cement to models both not to cause an unholy mess and to make sure the glued parts don't slip and slide as the bond becomes firm.
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As I hinted at in your other thread I got a couple of really cheap individual historicals sprues from e-bay both for extra bits and to practise painting on some disposable bodies.
This was just as well as I hadn't fully appreciated how careful you need to be when applying plastic cement to models both not to cause an unholy mess and to make sure the glued parts don't slip and slide as the bond becomes firm.
Can I use super glue? So it sets quickly. Or is it a bad idea? What glue do you use for your figures?
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As I hinted at in your other thread I got a couple of really cheap individual historicals sprues from e-bay both for extra bits and to practise painting on some disposable bodies.
Like this one.. $7 or so shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRIPPING-BEAST-DARK-AGE-WARRIORS-5-MAN-SPRUE-AA3T-155-/141888555033
No one mentioned that dark age warriors would look good.. but I am thinking they might no? THey are in cloth, which kind of matches the Frostgrave official soldiers kit more right?
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Super glue, aka cyanoacrylate, is the usual thing to use on plastic and metal minis, so yes it's okay.
I've never heard of someone practicing on metals to get their skills up for a plastic mini, normally it's the other way around due to their costs :) But if that's what you have available, go for it!
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Super glue, aka cyanoacrylate, is the usual thing to use on plastic and metal minis, so yes it's okay.
I've never heard of someone practicing on metals to get their skills up for a plastic mini, normally it's the other way around due to their costs :) But if that's what you have available, go for it!
My thought was I could just sit the metal figurine in mineral spirits and be good to go in short order with no damage to the mini. I don't know how I'd clean paint off the plastic as mineral spirits would eat it.
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I just use superglue on metals and resin, and plastic cement on plastic kits as that as I what I was told to do and I always do as I'm told ;D
The reason is presumably, err, chemistry. In addition plastic cement gives you time to get arms and other bits into the exact position you want as it sets which takes minutes.
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Yeah, plastic cement is better for plastic (surprise), but super glue works just fine.
That plastic cement actually melts the plastic slightly, which when it evaporates or whatever leaves the two pieces actually 'melded' together into one piece, for a stronger bond. It also doesn't stick to your fingers, unless your fingers are plastic(?).
That is, if I'm thinking of the same 'plastic cement' as you are.
How cheap are Reaper Bones to get over in the UK? There's a ton of awesome minis for all the random creatures and monsters required for this game, and are usually less than half the price of a comparative metal mini. That, and they don't even need a primer coat to paint on them, you just need to wash them in soap and water. The main reason I'm even interested in this game is I've got all these Bones minis from their first two kickstarters, and even more on the way from their third. I've been practicing my painting on them, because I have hundreds and they each only cost me a buck or two, so if I screw something up I'm not too bummed :)
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I only use plastic cement for plastic models, and find that the bond is stronger than even super glue, since, as explained above, the plastic melts. Don't use the old model glue that results in a "cob web" of stickiness. There are glues that are thinner and have a long, narrow dispenser so that you can be more accurate with your gluing.
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I find metal miniatures to be easier to paint and more fun to paint. They have more fun little details than the plastic models, which make the more interesting, and for some reason I just like how paint sticks to them better as well. I much prefer metals over plastic. And indeed, they are easier to clean, but I suspect you need little cleaning. You say you are new, but I've already seen some paintwork on your scenery, and it betrays skills.
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I find metal miniatures to be easier to paint and more fun to paint. They have more fun little details than the plastic models, which make the more interesting, and for some reason I just like how paint sticks to them better as well. I much prefer metals over plastic. And indeed, they are easier to clean, but I suspect you need little cleaning. You say you are new, but I've already seen some paintwork on your scenery, and it betrays skills.
When they're both primed, paint should both stick the same though, right? I haven't painted either in a long time, I've been painting my Bones which doesn't require priming.
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I always use liquid polystyrene cement. It is a liquid solvent and naturally wicks into the crack between the parts you want to glue together. It therefore allows you to offer up the parts together then run the glue into the joint without having to move the parts.
I wouldn't worry about practicing on metal figures. As long as you don't slather the paint on with a trowel you can always paint over stuff in the future. Alternatively Detol is apparently good at removing paint from miniatures and won't effect the plastic.
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My thought was I could just sit the metal figurine in mineral spirits and be good to go in short order with no damage to the mini. I don't know how I'd clean paint off the plastic as mineral spirits would eat it.
Simple Green will strip paint from metal or plastic minis and it will not harm plastics. As an added benefit, it's nontoxic and biodegradable.
Drop the painted mini into a small jar or cup of Simple Green, wait 24 hours and give the model a good brushing under a water tap with an old toothbrush. Models with a lot if crevices and detail may require two treatments. Plastics tend to have less deep detail, so you probably won't need to dunk them twice. You can pick paint out if those stubborn recesses with a tooth pick or the tip of a hobby knife. Once you have removed the paint, give it a good rinse to get rid of any Simple Green residue.
Sometimes Simple Green will strip off the paint but leaves sections of primer. This is fine. Once the model is dry, spot primer the model or just give the whole model a light coat of primer, focusing on the areas with no primer.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswetndllr.jpeg)
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Personally I'd just dive in and paint whatever miniatures you intend to play with. You'll find your enthusiasm increases playing with painted models. And as mentioned you can always strip them again afterwards using Dettol disinfectant be they plastic or metal.
I use the Tamiya liquid cement for gluing plastics together. It actually melts the 2 plastic surfaces so they weld together, and then evapourates resulting in a much tighter and stronger bond. On metals go for 'Superglue'.
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Thanks for the replies. Good to know about the simple green.
Besides, Tamiya brand plastic glue, what glue do you guys use for your plastic miniatures? And why do you like it over other brands?
I need to buy some plastic glue :) I have e6000 at home, but never used it yet -- don't know if this counts or is as good as other brands.
I have no problem paying the money for something that excels. e.g. I got these kolinsky 0 and 000 brushes , sable hair, made in ENgland.. like $15 a brush.. TOTALLY worth it.. I love em :) Never had such control painting a mini before (although I haven't painted many yet).
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One of my favorite aspects of the hobby is watching my painting improving over time. Keeping your first mini's you paint is a great way to see that. Also it's pretty amusing to pull the original ones out from time to time to use.
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Tenax 7R and Ambroid Pro-Weld are other liquid cement brands. They act pretty much the same. No idea how they compare to the Tamaya stuff, never used that.
For brushes, check out Rosemary & Co. They are excellent brushes that are inexpensive. Many people here swear by them.
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Thanks for the replies. Good to know about the simple green.
Besides, Tamiya brand plastic glue, what glue do you guys use for your plastic miniatures? And why do you like it over other brands?
I need to buy some plastic glue :) I have e6000 at home, but never used it yet -- don't know if this counts or is as good as other brands.
I have no problem paying the money for something that excels. e.g. I got these kolinsky 0 and 000 brushes , sable hair, made in ENgland.. like $15 a brush.. TOTALLY worth it.. I love em :) Never had such control painting a mini before (although I haven't painted many yet).
Liquid poly cement varies between manufactures. I've tried many different ones and would recommend only 2.
Plastruct Plastic weld
(http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1213_1_15391.html)
This is very good. The only draw back is it comes in a tall, narrow bottle that can be easily knocked over, and the brush never reaches to the bottom of the bottle.
Tamiya
(http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/tamiya/tamiya-modelling-glue/tamiya-extra-thin-cement-40ml-order-in-12s?d=22&gclid=Cj0KEQiAr8W2BRD2qbCOv8_H7qEBEiQA1ErTBqFvJzihRFQa0Z-C-9ivIu9mdNb1oPePPE1FuY28XrkaAg3P8P8HAQ)
I always use Tamiya (extra thin) these days as in my opinion it's the best. It also comes in a squat, square bottle which is nye on impossible to knock over.
There's a good 'glue guide' here: http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/materials/learn-glue/
Good call on the brushes by the way. I always buy Kolonsky sable as they are without a doubt the best brushes and, as you've found, make such a difference. Not cheap though.
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Honestly?
I completely advise against using plastic cement. Use superglue, since, if you wind up not liking the pose, you can just dunk the sucker in really hot water for a bit and the superglue will pop right off, since it'll expand and go brittle from that.
So much less trouble, starting off.
AND you don't need two or three kinds of glue, just the one.
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:) It's an individual choice really. I have a lot of different hobbies so I've always got 5 or 6 different glues around depending on the material I'm working with. (Liquid Poly, Superglue, PVA, Contact Cement, 2-Part Epoxy etc.)
Personally I hate using Superglue. I find it too difficult to control (I hate when you push two parts together and the Superglue squirts out and sticks to your finger, or leaves a seam), the nozzle/caps clog up, and it has a short shelf life. Don't get me wrong, I use it, and it's brilliant on the right material, I just don't personally like it.
I don't like using Contact Cement either but there you go. ;)
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I use superglue for the very same reason. When I glue two pieces together, I want the option to change my mind.
You can often forgoe the soaking and just pull the parts apart. If the parts don't come apart or the parts are fragile and you fear breaking them, you can wedge the blade of a hobby knife inbetween the two parts and cut or pry them apart.
Superglue also has the advantage of being less expensive and widely available, so no special trips to a hobby shop required.
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I use superglue for the very same reason. When I glue two pieces together, I want the option to change my mind.
You can often forgoe the soaking and just pull the parts apart. If the parts don't come apart or the parts are fragile and you fear breaking them, you can wedge the blade of a hobby knife inbetween the two parts and cut or pry them apart.
Superglue also has the advantage of being less expensive and widely available, so no special trips to a hobby shop required.
I've heard of people throwing minis in the freezer for an hour or so. Superglue gets very brittle when it's ice cold, so you can pop it apart even easier.
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/materials/learn-glue/
Good call on the brushes by the way. I always buy Kolonsky sable as they are without a doubt the best brushes and, as you've found, make such a difference. Not cheap though.
Yeah I am super careful with them. I never mash them down, rinse every 30 seconds to 1 minute in jar of water, never dip too deeply into the paint and I use brush soap on them after every session. I haven't had them long but used them say a dozen times and they are as good as new so far. Such precision control -- the Brits really know how to make a brush!
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What do you guys think about using e6000 to glue minis together? Is there another name for this product in europe?
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It's called e6000 in the Uk as well. Mainly used by jewellery makers. I know friends in the craft sector that use it and they say it's the strongest adhesive they've ever used, but it smells apparently.
I've never seen it on sale anywhere so I've never tried it myself.
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What do you guys think about using e6000 to glue minis together? Is there another name for this product in europe?
I wouldn't use it for minis. Too goopy and stringy. I've used it to glue some odd things like tiles together.
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Tamiya
(http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/tamiya/tamiya-modelling-glue/tamiya-extra-thin-cement-40ml-order-in-12s?d=22&gclid=Cj0KEQiAr8W2BRD2qbCOv8_H7qEBEiQA1ErTBqFvJzihRFQa0Z-C-9ivIu9mdNb1oPePPE1FuY28XrkaAg3P8P8HAQ)
I always use Tamiya (extra thin) these days as in my opinion it's the best. It also comes in a squat, square bottle which is nye on impossible to knock over.
There's a good 'glue guide' here: http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/materials/learn-glue/
Good call on the brushes by the way. I always buy Kolonsky sable as they are without a doubt the best brushes and, as you've found, make such a difference. Not cheap though.
I ordered this Tamiya just now thank you. It didn't cost too much shipped to the USA. Only like 6 quid shipped.
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Okay so I am getting a box kit of Frostgrave Soldiers and a 50/50 mix box kit of Viking Hirdmen and Dark Age Warriors. That's around 60 soldiers or so -- more than enough for my nephew and myself to each form a warband or two.
I was just wondering since they are similar sculpts and we'll be sharing them.. what's the best way to make them stand out from each other, as a team?
I guess I need a paint scheme for each?
Could someone pretty please, give me a good paint scheme for each warband? I am new to painting and not experienced enough yet to come up with something that's good.
OR maybe their weapons, clothing and shields shouldn't match? That way it looks more disorganized and like they are hirelings. Perhaps there is another way to distinguish easily between the two armies? Like one team using a circular base and the other a hexagonal base?
Or maybe it's not that hard to know who has what model since each person knows which they painted it -- and I don't need to worry at all about them matching or using different bases?
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Okay so I am getting a box kit of Frostgrave Soldiers and a 50/50 mix box kit of Viking Hirdmen and Dark Age Warriors. That's around 60 soldiers or so -- more than enough for my nephew and myself to each form a warband or two.
I was just wondering since they are similar sculpts and we'll be sharing them.. what's the best way to make them stand out from each other, as a team?
I guess I need a paint scheme for each?
Could someone pretty please, give me a good paint scheme for each warband? I am new to painting and not experienced enough yet to come up with something that's good.
OR maybe their weapons, clothing and shields shouldn't match? That way it looks more disorganized and like they are hirelings. Perhaps there is another way to distinguish easily between the two armies? Like one team using a circular base and the other a hexagonal base?
Or maybe it's not that hard to know who has what model since each person knows which they painted it -- and I don't need to worry at all about them matching or using different bases?
My advice, based upon personal preference would be to use natural, muted tones, Vallejo Game Colour is great for this, since they have a wide range of colours for WWII scenarios, so you can pick up some wonderful Olives, Browns and Greys in numerous shades! Also get yourself a Steel model air colour, its very fluid and great for metal parts, dull it afterwards with a black wash. If you want them to look like a group of Mercenaries, then non uniformed is best for these types of scenarios unless you role play and base their background upon a famous Mercenary band etc the only limitation is your imagination :D
If you choose the non uniformed look then no colour scheme is required, just identify the colour palette you like best and go ahead! If you want a hint of 'realism' then colours such as Red, Blues, Purples were very expensive dye stuffs, so should be limited to special characters/champions etc, most ordinary troops would be in undyed cottons, browns, greens or grey.
Good luck and most importantly have fun!
Cheers
Gary
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I concur - go for muted colours: browns, greys, greens etc. To add a 'uniform' to distinguish both sides, paint a small part of thier clothing (a scarf, a rag, a hood, a hat or whatever) with a bright colour - say red for one sid, blue for the other.
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I agree with the general use of muted shades with greens / browns / greys predominating. To help make the 2 sides stand out more, then I'd suggest you each pick a colour, say blue or red. Then do 1 or 2 items of clothing in that colour on each figure, and not necessarily using exactly the same colour but differing shades.
If you are each going to paint your own figures, then they will end up looking fairly different.
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Thanks for the replies. Any of you have a photo demonstrating this by any chance. Like a photo of two opposing warbands in muted tones with colored articles of clothing ?
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Red, Blues, Purples were very expensive dye stuffs, so should be limited to special characters/champions etc, most ordinary troops would be in undyed cottons, browns, greens or grey.
That is true in this world. In occidental medieval times at least. The orient was always rich in colour and the lords showed their wealth by equipping even the lowest ranking with impressive fabrics. However Felstad is located in a fantasy setup with magic and all. An Illusionist might make his fellows appear in any bright colour even though they were actually clad in dull garments. Any other wizard could simply buy them every gaudi clothing from the loot found in the ruins if he likes to do so.
I painted my entire warband in bright red and yellow mi-parti uniform. This will make my miniatures stand out against any opponent on any Frostgrave table, I guess.
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@stone-cold-lead did some wonderful miniatures in a muted yet tied in color scheme:
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=76643.0
Also look at the main Northstar painted Warband:
http://www.beastsofwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Frostgrave-Soldiers.png
Or just use your Google-fu to search the inter web. =
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Liquid poly cement varies between manufactures. I've tried many different ones and would recommend only 2.
I've honestly never noticed a difference between manufacturers for polystyrene cement. They all seem about the same to me. YMMV of course.
Plastruct Plastic weld
I do have a bottle of this I use at times. IMO the advantage of this stuff is it works well on a wide variety of plastic types, not just the polystyrene used for most model kits.
I remember many years ago picking (1970?) a plastic figure that made out of some odd ball plastic that required you to use MEK as the glue. In case you don't know, MEK is highly toxic. lol
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Okay so I am getting a box kit of Frostgrave Soldiers and a 50/50 mix box kit of Viking Hirdmen and Dark Age Warriors. That's around 60 soldiers or so -- more than enough for my nephew and myself to each form a warband or two.
I was just wondering since they are similar sculpts and we'll be sharing them.. what's the best way to make them stand out from each other, as a team?
Bases. Finish the bases differently between the two sides and you will be able to tell them apart easily. Give one side rocky bases and the other grassy, etc.
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Bases. Finish the bases differently between the two sides and you will be able to tell them apart easily. Give one side rocky bases and the other grassy, etc.
I like this idea thank you! I'll probably be using this.
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I wasn't sure if in the original post you were simply asking about whether to use metal to practice or asking about generic tips for painting? If it's technique you are looking for then I do have a bit of quick advice.
I was out the hobby for a while and found when I finally returned I had a new found patience and ability to learn! My sister and brother-in-law have recently started and apart from my advice on how to start they found that the How to Paint Citadel Miniatures book to be great help. The new version comes with a DVD which is really good production quality. You can pick it up cheap on eBay, it's the version that is ring bound, just make sure the DVD comes with it. It obviously showcases GW version of every hobby product under the sun, but the techniques are still sound for any brand you eventually choose!
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Paint each warband with a different colour scheme, that's how I'm differentiating between my forces.
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I have this huge metal Ral Partha frost giant to glue together at the waist.
What glue should I use for this? I have e6000, super glue & pva here. along with glue gun.
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I have this huge metal Ral Partha frost giant to glue together at the waist.
What glue should I use for this? I have e6000, super glue & pva here. along with glue gun.
First off, drill and pin.
Second off, I usually use a mix resin epoxy and then green stuff around the gaps. Strong bond within about 3 hours and the green stuff secures it. Just... Make sure you don't fuck up. o_o
Also, I'm really upset that this is on eBay for £11 in America (but with £10 shipping) but for £35 in England. This kills the man.
It's a good looking miniature, can't wait to see what you do with it.
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First off, drill and pin.
Second off, I usually use a mix resin epoxy and then green stuff around the gaps. Strong bond within about 3 hours and the green stuff secures it. Just... Make sure you don't fuck up. o_o
Also, I'm really upset that this is on eBay for £11 in America (but with £10 shipping) but for £35 in England. This kills the man.
It's a good looking miniature, can't wait to see what you do with it.
Oops, I superglued it. Hope it holds. I guess if it breaks, I'll clean it up and do the drill/pin thing like you say.
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Oops, I superglued it. Hope it holds. I guess if it breaks, I'll clean it up and do the drill/pin thing like you say.
Honestly, if it's sticking, it'll probably stick (for a few years, at least). For me, it usually just falls off and I hate myself.
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Oops, I superglued it. Hope it holds. I guess if it breaks, I'll clean it up and do the drill/pin thing like you say.
If there's a big enough surface area for the join then superglue should be fine.
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If there's a big enough surface area for the join then superglue should be fine.
Big enough and well-fitting. Superglue works best when there are no gaps in the join between the two parts. If the pieces don't fit tightly together, use epoxy instead.
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I'd go for brighter colours since you are just starting out. Muted colours tend to look meh once they are on the table unless you are experienced anough to make them pop, especially if you are going to be relying on wahes as you start out. Plus, Frostgrave is fantasy, so who cares if they look realistic?
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When I'm using muted colors I always try to pick one item and spot color it fairly bright. I red clock clasp, blue pouch, anything that breaks up the bland.
= )
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First off, drill and pin.
Second off, I usually use a mix resin epoxy and then green stuff around the gaps. Strong bond within about 3 hours and the green stuff secures it. Just... Make sure you don't fuck up. o_o
Also, I'm really upset that this is on eBay for £11 in America (but with £10 shipping) but for £35 in England. This kills the man.
It's a good looking miniature, can't wait to see what you do with it.
Here's a start on it. Let me know if you like the browns, golds & tans. He'll have light blue skin and white beard & brows. Probably silver & gold weapon. I am not the greatest with colors. Maybe I should of gone with a white fur for kilt along with silver armor. You think gold will work? Ignore the boots (they'll be a combination of the belt color and kilt color since they are both leather and fur).
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/34iic7c.jpg)
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What skin color you have chosen? The skin will condition other colors...
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What skin color you have chosen? The skin will condition other colors...
light blue with white hair & beard.
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How's the skin color? I did some mixing of colors.
(http://oi65.tinypic.com/23s6wyo.jpg)
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I didnt want to finish the top half of the mini's skin until I got feedback on the lower half. New to painting minis and looking for some feedback. Guess I scared everyone away lol.
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They look kind of like pants. I had the same problem with some blueskin creatures I did and I sorted it by doing lots of layering. So do a dark base layer and then steadily build up, reducing the areas you're covering.
Also, I mixed in a bit of flesh tone and that seemed to help.
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Looks fine to me, but gently highlighting with a light cream/beige colour, rather than plain white, might help bring the flesh to life a little.
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So do a dark base layer and then steadily build up, reducing the areas you're covering.
This is exactly what I did. :)
Perhaps I just need to continue with lighter layers? 3 layers so far.
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Looks fine to me, but gently highlighting with a light cream/beige colour, rather than plain white, might help bring the flesh to life a little.
Okay so take what I have and add the fleshy highlights?
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Honestly, once you do his face and arms, it might change the perspective of it.
This is exactly what I did. :)
Perhaps I just need to continue with lighter layers? 3 layers so far.
I'd do a darker starting layer, personally.
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Okay so take what I have and add the fleshy highlights?
Try one gentle drybrush over what you've done and then, as throwsFireball suggests, do the rest and see how it looks.
Golden rule - if you're happy with it, then it's finished! :D
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I personally wouldn't drybrush things like skin or smooth clothes, etc. The minis tend to have a texture that dry brushing brings out. This is great for fur or chainmail since that is exactly what you want. But for skin the texture of the miniature leads to the dry brushing picking out highlights that you don't want (ie the texture from the mold or slight imperfections in the undercoat). This makes the skin look kind of "stone like". So dry brushing as a technique is great for stone but not for flesh.
Instead of dry brushing try simple highlighting. If you go for three layers with a base, mid and light aim for most of it to be mid, recesses and edges in dark and tops of things in light. Without blending you will still get a pretty descent result. To tie it together you can give it a dilute inkwash. As you gain confidence you can then start trying to blend the shades.
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You could also try giving it a mid/dark blue wash to stop it looking to much like fabric. GW or Vallejo are your best bet.
GW call their range "Shade" instead of washes and 'Drakenhof Nightshade' is their Blue Wash.
Vallejo call their range "Wash" and (unsurprisingly) 'Blue Shade Wash' is their Blue Wash.
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Does Tamiya work well with PLA? i.e. 3D printed plastic items.
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Does Tamiya work well with PLA? i.e. 3D printed plastic items.
Tried it. Did not work at all. Zero melting. The PLA plastic must not be of the right chemical makeup for this to work.
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Tried it. Did not work at all. Zero melting. The PLA plastic must not be of the right chemical makeup for this to work.
It's probably the ester bonds on the PLA.
That and the huge gaps between trying to join it up.
You'll need an epoxy for it.
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WOW ... those last few comments went totally over my head. I now feel REALLY old! Now ... where'd I put my pen and cassette tape? lol
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Yeah it's all the new abbreviations for the different versions of plastic, I don't know what half of them stand for. it just used to be hard plastic or soft bendy plastic. Now there's so many versions with technical terms and abbreviations :?
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Yeah it's all the new abbreviations for the different versions of plastic, I don't know what half of them stand for. it just used to be hard plastic or soft bendy plastic. Now there's so many versions with technical terms and abbreviations :?
I just learned about PLA plastic since I got into 3D printing -- like 6 weeks ago. PLA prints at lower temps and doesn't need a heated bed. ABS is more durable and a bit more flexible than PLA, but requires higher filament heater temp and bed temp -- it's also quite smelly and more toxic. PETG is like inbetween PLA and ABS .. needs a bit more heat than PLA (both extruder and bed) but less heat than ABS .. also smells less--hence less toxic.
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WOW ... those last few comments went totally over my head. I now feel REALLY old! Now ... where'd I put my pen and cassette tape? lol
What is this casette tape of which you speak. I shall go and listen to my gramaphone.
Loads of good advice here.I would have suggested buying some junk minis of ebay to have a play with but now I have seen your painting I can see you don't need to do that. :D
The next bit of advice I would give you is buy good brushes ... but you have already done thtt.
Next paint neatly ... simple techniques done neatly will give you nice minis.
Next always, always thin your paint ...probably thinner than you would imagine making any kind of sense. Several thin coats of paint will give better results than one thick one. Even painting a base coat of the same colour I will often do a couple of thin coats rather than try and cover it in one go.
Next play ... experimant ... play with washes, play with dry brushing. Layering and blending highlights is the way to go for incredible paint jobs but you can go a long way with base colours washes and drybrushing. for most parts of the model.
Last thought from me. .... faces and bases. These are the bits of the model that you notice the most. Put most of your efforts into painting the face really well and doing some nice basing. Even standard minis look good with a good face and a good base.
Then as someone else said ... paint the minis you love and want to play with....or you will end up with a lot of half painted miniatures.
Good Luck.
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@Jennifer, how's the Frost Giant coming along? Or have you been seduced (or consumed) by your new 3D printer?
C J = )