Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Post-Apocalyptic Tales => Topic started by: spect_spidey on March 06, 2017, 12:39:58 PM
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I am looking for suitable scenery to use for my Walking Dead AOW mini games and that I could use for the Top Secret rpg or 7TV skirmish game. I was originally going to go the 2D map route, but it is hard to find modern maps that include interiors that aren't print at home. The only ones I really found were the HeroClix neoprene maps, which are nice. I have the office level one that I currently use. So I decided to move on into 3D since I do that for my Frostgrave and This is Not a Test games already. In looking around I have narrowed it down to Sarissa Precision and Terra Blocks. Both are MDF based, which I have never used. The closest I have is Plast Craft Colored Desert Buildings. Anyways, I was looking for advise on which I should pursue. I live in the U.S. and both are U.K. based so I figure I will need to make quite an initial investment to keep from dealing with several shipping charges. Positives and negatives for each? I know using Sarissa will also require me to find suitable maps with roads and such to place the building on. But I am unsure how the Terra Blocks base boards would hold up to travel and storage. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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This question is hard too answer to. I try it:
1. Sarissa or Warbase or TT Combat
The buildings are unpainted, nice made. You have to use some time to make them ready. Paint the outside, maybe some gras and some plants, etc. Inside you have to paint them and buy the interior seperatly. But after some work the result is great.
2. Sally 4th (Terra Blocks)
My reason to buy was the idea of a modern dungeon in realistic scale. Often the buildings are to small compared to reality. So I bought these parts. They are grey and look a little bit rough. Price is ok, but not cheap. You have to build them. My first disappointment came when I tried to use them with my coppletine Doors. The openings for doors a little bit smaller then promised, but a knive and some extra time helped me. I do not like the doors from terrablocks, but this is a personal problem. When you want to play inside (I hear the words of my mother - "The wheather is fine, so go playing outside with the other kids!") they are good. I think about using them for my AvP-Stuff.
3. 4 Ground
When you have the money a good choice. Prepainted, good instruction, one or two Evening with a good movie and you will have a perfect gaming board. But, not as cheap as the other. I love their asian stuff.
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Is painting MDF a big enough deal to consider using 4 Ground instead of other MDF options?
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I hate painting MDF. The surfaces tend to take on a fuzzy/suede look because MDF is such a "thirsty" material. I have tried various methods of sealing the surface before painting and none of them are really satisfactory. Surface detail is especially problematic.
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I bought a Sarissa City Block building way back when.
http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/city-block.html (http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/city-block.html)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qoh6fGWw7bo/UH8N5Wr1tnI/AAAAAAAAAS8/S7rQdCCqglM/s1600/sarissabuildthreequarters.png)
The walls were sprayed with Halfords acrylic car primer and tend not to generate too much texture (I know what Manchu means).
One day it will be finished.
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I hate painting MDF. The surfaces tend to take on a fuzzy/suede look because MDF is such a "thirsty" material. I have tried various methods of sealing the surface before painting and none of them are really satisfactory. Surface detail is especially problematic.
1/2 tinned Mod Podge. To thin down a 1/1 Mix of Water and Vallejo Airbrushthinner is perfect. The Alcohol in the mix helps to bring it deep in the MDF to plastify the surface.
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As you live in the US ,It might be worth checking out Cresent Root.
They're ranges are pre painted,pre made ( both inside and out.) They aren't as expensive as you think.
The middle eastern station is $70 and the industrial set. Is $80.
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Unpainted MDF means you get the look your wanting for your table. As for the range thats up to your budget too.
Have to say Ive had no problems with painting MDF or card. I use base coating as a colour base not a sealer. Ive used all types of paints, car spray paints, household spray paints, graffiti spray paints. Artist acrylics, cheap cheap art acrylics for children, Ravell etc etc.
I only experience the MDF soaking tones of paints with using gloss spray paint without a base, and thats because they arent made to work that way.
In the main I use a lot of household emulsion paint, test colour pots.
Agreed MDF is a wood and if you get it too wet it will show a grain, trick is dont get it too wet. Test your self on a spare scrap.
MDF comes in a variety of grades too. I have found that the 2mm MDF is a more dense material with a higher impact resistant surface and is much smoother, much like furniture grade. The 3mm is softer and has a more paper like face to it. You can spot the difference, 2mm is darker and browner, 3mm is more tan and pale.
Working in the Office Furniture industry - as a designer - I can say little surface prep is done apart from priming for quality
Not a plug for work, but I have some painting PDF guides on my web site www.marchattack.co.uk and loads of images with paint step by steps on my facebook page (marchattack) too.
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Wow thanks for all the great information! I really appreciate it. I will definitely look into Crescent Root. In my experience, it takes me forever to paint. I still have Warhammer walls and fences that I have not completed. I love skirmish gaming and using minis for role playing, but I do not like to paint. LOL
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I got a Sarissa colonial house as a test piece. Painted up fairly easily - I left it in the sprue sheet, except I punched out the empty spaces like window panes and the bits between the porch railing. Then I sealed the whole thing with a filling primer. Then I painted the broad surfaces on the sprue sheet before punching them out, gluing it together, and touching up any edges that still showed. Then I hit the whole thing with Minwax Polyshades Pecan (the equivalent to Army Painter's Soft Tone Dip) to shade, weather, and seal it all at once. Then some dullcote and I have a nice, worn little New England house for Muskets & Tomahawks or Strange Aeons.
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I got a Sarissa colonial house as a test piece. Painted up fairly easily - I left it in the sprue sheet, except I punched out the empty spaces like window panes and the bits between the porch railing. Then I sealed the whole thing with a filling primer. Then I painted the broad surfaces on the sprue sheet before punching them out, gluing it together, and touching up any edges that still showed. Then I hit the whole thing with Minwax Polyshades Pecan (the equivalent to Army Painter's Soft Tone Dip) to shade, weather, and seal it all at once. Then some dullcote and I have a nice, worn little New England house for Muskets & Tomahawks or Strange Aeons.
That sounds simple enough. Would you be able to share a picture of the finished product? Thanks.
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That sounds simple enough. Would you be able to share a picture of the finished product? Thanks.
Here's some quick phone pics. My full picture taking setup isn't...well...setup...at the moment.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/Narzoth/SarissaHouse1_zps8wes5bn6.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/Narzoth/SarissaHouse3_zpsqq13rkxz.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/Narzoth/SarissaHouse2_zpsidu13ew3.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/Narzoth/SarissaHouse4_zpsum48edhx.jpg)
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I hate painting MDF. The surfaces tend to take on a fuzzy/suede look because MDF is such a "thirsty" material. I have tried various methods of sealing the surface before painting and none of them are really satisfactory. Surface detail is especially problematic.
I've found that I only tend to get issues if I don't prime sufficiently first. Generally a thin coat or two of halfords primer does the trick nicely and also stops the carbon from the laser burns bleeding through into the paint.
I add surface detail to a lot of the kits I build using textured paint or plasticard strips. With a little extra effort you can make a big difference to some of them. Elsewhere I have used different colour highlights to make brick walls less regular and even. I'm sure someone with better talent with a paintbrush than me can do a lot more besides.
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@Psychopomp: that looks very good. I have one of Sarissa's large Wild West scale buildings, and I might follow your methods.
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@Psychopomp Thanks for the pics. That looks great. I may have to get me some Sarissa.
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The primer I used (based on recommendations here on Lead Adventure) is Rustoleum Primer-Sealer. But that's in the US. The important thing is that it needs to be a binding sealer to prevent the MDF from just absorbing paint.
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I've no idea why your having such issues.I've never primed mdf buildings,in fact I never prime card builds be it cereal pact like this one or preprinted Ho buildings I rescale for 28mm.
I always detail up mdf buildings with cereal packet card. I just apply straight from the pot base coats of colour ,then dry with a hairdryer at every stage. From there on until I apply a spray matt varnish.
Mark.
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I hate painting MDF. The surfaces tend to take on a fuzzy/suede look because MDF is such a "thirsty" material. I have tried various methods of sealing the surface before painting and none of them are really satisfactory. Surface detail is especially problematic.
I bought a special primer for MDF in a construction shop in germany. The shop is Bauhaus. It works well, fighting the big thirst of MDF
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I hate painting MDF. The surfaces tend to take on a fuzzy/suede look because MDF is such a "thirsty" material. I have tried various methods of sealing the surface before painting and none of them are really satisfactory. Surface detail is especially problematic.
Try ready-made PVA (polyvinyl acetate) craft paint! ;)
If using standard acrylic paint, a little sandpaper in round motions before painting fights the MDF "thrist" for paint, followed by a thin layer of shellac (a natural bioadhesive polymer) sealing applied with an old and wide brush. Let it dry well (can use a hair drier if in a hurry) before applying paint.
My personal favourite: sandpaper + PVA craft paint! ;)
(http://www.acrilex.com.br/admin/produtos/tinta_pva21.jpg)
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Before you paint MDF check the surface out. It should be smooth and have sealed sort of sheen, near matte look to it, no grain or directional lines. Laser cut MDF should have a slight tackyness to the surface and show some burn marks to it to. The manufacturing process of MDF is done in a roller press like manner (for the detail crew I say like), a bit like making rolled steel. As such the surface is sealed by the resins and the process. If the surface has been sanded then thats your problem. Its your grade/quality of MDF.
Sealing it... stop - n - just paint your base colour and get going.