Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: StreetBushido on March 08, 2017, 05:35:00 PM
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I'm currently working on priming my Blood Bowl teams. Due to living in what many call a "frozen hellscape" I haven't really felt confident in using a rattlecan primer: I'm worried that I may end up with dusting or some other undesired result. And I've been too stingy to get myself an airbrush. Plus I don't really have the space to use either of these two methods.
Instead I've been using Vallejo's Acrylic Polyurethane White Primer. It's the fairly runny one that comes in a big bottle. I think it has the consistency it has to be directly usable in an airbrush. In my case, though, I've been brushing it on.
However, I've run into a problem. The method I use is to water down the primer further and slather it on fairly liberally and messily. The goal is, after all, to cover the whole model. The problem is that I have noticed that the primer dries with bubbles in some of the recesses, leaving fairly unsightly (if you know where to look) holes. And this is after I've looked over the figure and sucked up excess primer from various recesses and surfaces.
Does anybody have any good advice on priming with a brush? Should I be using some extra product, like a flow enhancer or something like that to minimize the creation of bubbles?
And while we're at it: any good advice on using a rattlecan? I have quite a few figures to prime and brush priming feels like it will eat too much precious painting time.
Any and all advice welcome. :)
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Acrylic car sprays are good. They're designed to stick to plastics and composites and metal... and they're cheap because they're intended to cover large areas. They're OK on Reaper bones as well.
I've had ONE in all the years I've been using them which went dusty -- since I switched to using satin rather than matte ones, no problems and the painting finish is more consistent. And even the dusty one painted over just fine.
These days I'm using Stynylrez airbrush primer for a lot of stuff. Great coverage, better control over the thickness, fast drying. The expensive part of airbrushing BTW, is a decent compressor...
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Humbrol #33 Black Matt - Enamel Paint NOT the acrylic.
Clean brushes in white spirit.
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Don't dilute the Vallejo primers. I used to do just that (with the black) and found it was just rubbing straight off (when dry) when I was handling the model for painting.
The method I use is to brush on the Vallejo primer (from the big bottle) with a messy big old brush. I really scrub it on to get the paint into the nooks and crannies. Then when dry I give it a quick once-over with a cheap matt black car spray paint.
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For brush on: artist gesso, black or white. I use Liquitex but there are several good brands. It stands a little dilution. Apply with a flat, medium stiff brush for best result.
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Black or grey Vallejo primer straight from the bottle, not thinned. No major problems so far.