Only problem I had with that is that it's not dark enough. The old Citadel Regal Blue was the Dog's Bollocks of dark blues I miss it terribly 

That was well done, the acting was very well done.

I would have thought in a Sci-Fi world you could tint whatever colour you fancy. I'll say this though, green makes perfect sense as it's a tint commonly used by the military to filter direct overhead light such as the perspex panels atop helicopter cockpits. Those are typically tinted green. Reduces glare and UV exposure.

I'm sure clear blue works just as well but I've never had any problems using any of the readily available clear green paints out there, be that Vallejo, Gunze Sangyo or Tamiya. The viscosity is usually good to go straight out of the bottle/jar and provides good good streak free coverage if you are careful. As ever,  test piece first and you can always add a little water or flow improver if you want better coverage.

The HB pencil is a handy tool if you are looking at making scratch marks and nicks to paint. If you want older, more realistic scratches, apply either a lightened version of the surrounding paint and/ or what the undercoat should look like before applying the scratch mark either with a brush or pencil. This way it looks as of the paint has flaked a little as a result of the scratch.

Less is always more with distressing. Too often we see kit that looks like it's been sitting at a car wrecking yard for years. Militaries are big on maintenance, including painting but that's also true of other organisations. Tiny dabs with a fine brush are best, although there are advocates of foam and for heavy areas, shortened bristles like on an old brush you woud use for dry brushing. You can apply by lightly jabbing teh surface with an almost dry brush.

Final quick tip. Gundam panel marking pens, especially the grey ones, are a really quick and easy way to add depth by darkening the er... panel lines. Most model and hobby shops stock them these days.

It would be quite interesting if they expand the war as the period has a lot of excellent battles of different armies that would allow.

I've noted though that some folks were quite disappointed that they didn't expand the Napoleonic range to, for example, include the Austrians.

So we will have to wait and see.

There may be something in the once long-running, now preserved in aspic, ‘Force composition in the Wars of The Roses’ thread here that helps address your question, although you’ve probably already spotted that…

https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=59060.0

I hadn't come across that thread so thanks for posting the link.  WOTR is on hold at the moment while I frantically paint 15mm Seleucids for an event (I forgot that my ability to estimate painting times is woeful with some 'units' taking much MUCH longer than anticipated!).

Thanks for all the very interesting replies, much to ponder.  I'm leaning towards a combination of mixed and separate I think, as much for the variety if anything.  If every foot unit, save perhaps for MAA, is a combined mixed bill / bow it could be a bit samey.  I've also seen the mention of massed archery volleys, almost an archery duel, with the archers then retiring while the bills and MAA then get to slug it out.  Whichever route I go at least I'll know that neither (or a combined) route is definitively wrong.