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Author Topic: Has anyone tried...  (Read 1477 times)

Offline Conquistador

  • Galactic Brain
  • Posts: 4375
  • There are hostile eye watching us from the arroyos
Has anyone tried...
« on: 08 October 2010, 03:21:02 AM »
... using Heroclix (such as Wolfsbane) or Horrorclix (Evil Leprechaun) figures for Chaos in Carpathia or similar games (besides Horrorclix rules of course.)

Gracias,

Glenn
Viva Alta California!  Las guerras de España,  Las guerras de las Américas,  Las guerras para la Libertad!

Offline Momotaro

  • Mastermind
  • Posts: 1320
Re: Has anyone tried...
« Reply #1 on: 08 October 2010, 01:07:55 PM »
I have a number of the Cthulhoid Horrorclix monsters that I use for horror gaming.  The Rl'yeh guardians are nice mini-Cthulhus, and the shoggoth isn't bad.  I also use some of the Monsterpocalypse minis.  Oh, and the Horrorclix Predators, Aliens and BPRD figures (the BPRD box was £1 from Poundland!).

You can prise them off the Heroclix dial base pretty easily - some swearing may be involved - and I use Loctite All-Plastics superglue to put them on regular bases.  They will take acrylic paint directly onto the painted plastic, although if the model has lots of thin, flexible parts I prefer to undercoat with gesso, then seal the final paintjob with a mix of thinned-down PVA glue and matt varnish.

To be honest, I kept the guardians as they were and just rebased them, and I only repainted the shoggoth because it was too pink.  here it is:

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=20104.0


Offline ZenWired

  • Librarian
  • Posts: 149
    • A Rust Monster Ate My Sword
Re: Has anyone tried...
« Reply #2 on: 08 October 2010, 01:43:19 PM »
I use them (as well as Mage Knight figures) regularly for many games: Strange Aeons, Spinespur, Rippers, Necromunda, etc.

If you're planning on rebasing them, the trick in removing them from their clicky bases is finding the "sweet spot" - I've found that most of them have one. It's a spot where the model is less firmly mounted to the base. I usually find it by testing the edges of the join with the blade of a large Xacto knife (the kind with a retractable blade, similar to a utility knife) until I find the spot where the blade slips easily between the model and the base. Then it's usually just a matter of pushing the blade into the join a little farther and rotating it; the model usually pops easily off the base at that point. (Of course, there are a few that don't have said sweet spot, and those that don't "pop" when the blade's turned. These are the ones that usually involve cursing - and bleeding, if you're too aggressive or careless.)

 8)
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