Generic Dark Age scenic items, Part 3 and a bit...

[Mitch K]

The three-part project grew to three and a bit.

The bit was making a variety of fence sections. I'd say these are generally useful not just for Dark Ages games, but almost universally, so I think everybody should have one (or more)

Anyway, the gory details of how can be found here:http://mitchwargaming.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/a-quick-change-of-plan-and-couple-of_23.html

And here are the finished items, so you can see what you are letting yourself in for:

[Atheling]

Nice  .

I think I'd go for the wattle fencing as it was used throughout the Early to Late Middle Ages and most of my collections are for that era.

Great work on them all of course!

Darrell.

[Mitch K]

Thanks Darrell - a form of post and rail fence is archaeologically attributed back to the Iron Age (albeit in timber-rich areas) so that's good enough for me. The picket is probably a bit anachronistic, but at the end of the day, all the evidence you would get for all three in most areas is a line of post holes!

I went with those two over a large amount of wattle alone because (a) weaving that bloody steel wire is hard on my fingers; and (b) I'm a sucker for variety!

Glad you enjoyed it!

[Atheling]

Thanks Darrell - a form of post and rail fence is archaeologically attributed back to the Iron Age (albeit in timber-rich areas) so that's good enough for me. The picket is probably a bit anachronistic, but at the end of the day, all the evidence you would get for all three in most areas is a line of post holes!

  True! 

I went with those two over a large amount of wattle alone because (a) weaving that bloody steel wire is hard on my fingers; and (b) I'm a sucker for variety!

I bet. I wonder how much it would cost to get the wattle stuff cast up in resin? Anyone? 

Darrell.

[mikedemana]

Keep them coming, Mitch! I am finishing up my wattle pasture and continuing to work on dark age scenics. So, you're posts hit the spot.

Funny, I was j-u-s-t going to suggest leather cord over wire, then read your friend's post on how he used it for his. Very easy on the hands. Also, you could avoid the "pinning" step by wrapping the leather back around the final post and rethreading it through as the next layer. In other words, it becomes one continuous weave, back and forth. It may not make individual sections look as joined together as your methods, but it goes very quickly. I'll be putting up a tutorial as soon as I finish mine.

Mike Demana

[Mitch K]

Mike,

thanks very much - there are plenty more over on the blog! I stick with the MIG wire method for two reasons: first I've got a good big stock of it - a small spool will last more or less indefinitely I should think, unless I'm going to build a wattle fence that's about five miles long in scale! Second, at 0.7mm diameter it scales out at 39mm, or just a fraction over 1.5" in old money. This is reasonably close to being in scale (maybe a just a fraction over) but is still very strong. I've struggled to find other things that are close to scale and reasonably robust.

I'll look forward to your tutorial. Seems everyone is making fences at the moment!


 

Keep them coming, Mitch! I am finishing up my wattle pasture and continuing to work on dark age scenics. So, you're posts hit the spot.

Funny, I was j-u-s-t going to suggest leather cord over wire, then read your friend's post on how he used it for his. Very easy on the hands. Also, you could avoid the "pinning" step by wrapping the leather back around the final post and rethreading it through as the next layer. In other words, it becomes one continuous weave, back and forth. It may not make individual sections look as joined together as your methods, but it goes very quickly. I'll be putting up a tutorial as soon as I finish mine.

Mike Demana

[Mitch K]

I bet. I wonder how much it would cost to get the wattle stuff cast up in resin? Anyone? 

Darrell.

Good question. I made up a mould to cast wattle panels from the master I made using brad nails and fishing line. This gives good service for single-sided castings (so for applique'ing onto walls or as revetments) in something like FIMO clay but making a double sided mould was beyond me!

[Atheling]

Good question. I made up a mould to cast wattle panels from the master I made using brad nails and fishing line. This gives good service for single-sided castings (so for applique'ing onto walls or as revetments) in something like FIMO clay but making a double sided mould was beyond me!

I do wonder as you can buy resin in most model shops. Just not sure how safe it would be either without a respirator etc. Nasty stuff that resin  .

Worth investigating me thinks.

Darrell.

[Mitch K]

I do wonder as you can buy resin in most model shops. Just not sure how safe it would be either without a respirator etc. Nasty stuff that resin  .

Worth investigating me thinks.

Darrell.

Darrell, generic polyester resins as sold as wood fillers and for use in GRP work for household / amateur use don't recommend the use of forced air extraction / respirators etc.

A quick check of a variety of MSDS for various polyester resins indicates that while its not nice stuff (no great surprise) relatively normal precautions (good ventilation and suitable gloves) should mitigate the risk. The exposure limits would actually be quite difficult to exceed. Of course this doesn't replace a proper COSHH risk assessment for anyone using it commercially, but for small-scale domestic use, you would have to try quite hard to put yourself at significant risk.

[Atheling]

Darrell, generic polyester resins as sold as wood fillers and for use in GRP work for household / amateur use don't recommend the use of forced air extraction / respirators etc.

A quick check of a variety of MSDS for various polyester resins indicates that while its not nice stuff (no great surprise) relatively normal precautions (good ventilation and suitable gloves) should mitigate the risk. The exposure limits would actually be quite difficult to exceed. Of course this doesn't replace a proper COSHH risk assessment for anyone using it commercially, but for small-scale domestic use, you would have to try quite hard to put yourself at significant risk.

Cheers for that- appreciated  . In other words, wait for the sun to some out and do it in the back garden! Only thing is.... what sun? 

Darrell.

[Mitch K]

Cheers for that- appreciated  . In other words, wait for the sun to some out and do it in the back garden! Only thing is.... what sun? 

Darrell.

A drafty garage will do it - just make sure it's not so blinking cold the reaction rate of the polymerisation goes through the floor and it stays all sticky and horrible...