20mm and 28mm terrain, is there a huge difference?

[Westfalia Chris]

Chris,

what is WPB? Never heard of.

Sorry, got used to the abbreviation - Warhammer Panzer Battles. Basically, a mod for WH40k 3rd edition, written by Phil Yates before he went off to join Battlefront for FOW. Good fun, company-sized, I'd say, with a tendency to go heavy on the tanks - basically, it's "all armies are Imperial Guard with saves of 6 vs. blast weapons - the faction flair was mainly created by ridiculously extensive (but reasonably balanced) weapon lists and tons of more or less different vehicle stats.

It did a great job to recreate WW2 clichés on the tabletop - we referred to it as Hollywood WW2, but for that, it was well-balanced, used the basic rules to good effect and avoided curb-stomping matchups, more so than FOW manages.

I had German and US armies in 28mm and 20mm (and still got the former), and being the tank nut I am, went a tiiiny bit overboard with the numbers of AFVs on the table.  My US force was usually tank-based with some armoured infantry, but for the Germans, I went for the infantry option.

Great fun was had by all, is what I'm trying to say.

[Arrigo]

Had an hunch on what "w" stood for... lets says FoW 0.1.... ahahahahah...

anyway fun it is important, but from what you posted earlier on the long run you had problem with the perception of the action on the tabletop. Let;s face it, I usually do not put more than one tank in 28mm and my tables tend to be urban terrain or restricted in some ways. Even in 15mm I am nowadays loath to put more than one or two platoons of tanks on the table (and I have one full Panzer IV company and one Full Panther company plus one Full US tank company... so I use them in drib and drabs.  I reckon that the standard 6x4 feet table works well with 10mm armoured companies, but having shell load of 6mm I end up doing company sized tank clashes on that scale.

Arrigo

[Golgotha]

Since it is paper terrain you want to download you can rescale it when printing or copying.

Can be easilly rescaled for example (from an article by Chris Appoldt), if you want to build a 1/48 scale tank for your aircraft diorama but only have 1/35 scale drawings, simply divide the scale you have by the scale that you want: 35 ÷ 48 = .7291666.
Now round up, leaving you with .73 Adjust the decimal placement to 73 (you’re moving the decimal because on the photocopier, 1.0 = 100%, 1.5 = 150%, etc.). Now just set the copier to make copies at 73 percent, and you have your plans in 1/48 scale. To do the reverse and enlarge 1/48 to 1/35: 48 ÷ 35 = 1.37 Now round up, giving you 137% to enlarge the plans by. Two popular armor modeling scales, 1/35 and 1/76, might complicate matters – most copiers will copy no smaller than 50 percent, and you’ll need to reduce further than that. To convert 1/35 scale to 1/76 scale: 35 ÷ 76 = .46 (or 46 percent) Now, since we can’t go lower than 50 percent, determine the square root of .46, which is .68. Set your copier for 68 percent, copy the 1/35 scale plans, then copy those reduced drawings again at 68 percent. These will give you the 46 percent reduction, and your plans are now in 1/76 scale.

So in this case just up the size slightly even by playing it by eye based on doors etc. should give the desired effect. I did used to play 20mm Napoleonic using 15mm buildings and that worked board wise in terms of spacing etc. rather well and did not look too out but skirmish games will need the right size terrain.

[sunspear]

Thanks for all the input, Too Bo Coo, that doesn't look bad at all. I am not super concerned about it being 100% accurate. Paper Terrain is cheap for the amount you get, I was just looking at their train station and it only comes in 20mm so I was curious about the scale. A lot of viewpoints on this and I appreaciate all the help!