Now I'm not claiming to have invented the wheel. This is just the method I've developed by trial and error,and no doubt others will have thought of it too.
But since I've been asked how I achieve the tiling. Then here is how I approach it.
First thing to do (sounds obvious.) is to figure out how many rows of tiling you'd like and how many tiles per row.
For speed and simplicity I work on 1cm wide tiles,and dived the length of the roof by 1cm. To find the number of tiles per row.
The height of the tile is done in similar fashion. Except you need to add an additional 20% to the height of each tile.(this becomes the lip to rest the next layer of tiles upon.)
So nine rows of 1cm tiles. Will measure 10.8cm tall when drawn out.
It's one of the basic rules of getting the tiles to sit right. It doesn't matter what size you wish the finished tiles to be. The ratio is finish surface length + (20% of the length of the finished surface length)=the actual tile length to be cut out.
So when you mark out the roof tiles your horizontal lines will be 1cm-20%-1cm-20%-1cm and so on.
It's also better to mark out the rectangle for the entire roof and infill.
So nine rows of twenty 1cm tiles. Is a 20cm x 10.8cm rectangle.
In theory you should end up with a grid something similar to the picture.
Then it simply adding the ridge sections the full length of the vertical lines.
I use a single layer of card in 2mm(ish) widths as I'm aiming for a more subtle and implied feel.
However this could be done in plastic card with U shaped lengths,or even rolled clay. I have in fact used guttering and plywood for a museum display,using this method.