Using flow improver leaves a sticky surface?

[ErikB]

I have been thinning my GW washes with flow improver and water.  40% water, 40% flow improver, 20% wash, so it's very light and I do multiple layers.  With the flow improver the wash becomes more of an ink which is wonderful for getting in small recesses (like folds in a jacket) without changing the color of the main surface.

However, the surfaces seem to remain sticky.  I let this one mini dry overnight in front of a fan (we're having a heat wave and I had the fan on, anyway).  It's still sticky.

Even worse, I've painted something brass and have been trying to weather it with greens, reds, and browns.  This is a stasis tank with a giant brain inside.  It's been sticky for days and is starting to collect dust that does not want to come off.

I'm trying to figure out if the flow improver is what is causing the stickiness and, if so, do I need to reduce the percentage.  If it is normal to take a few days to dry then I should just let it and accept that finishing these minis will simply take longer.

[Orctrader]

40% water, 40% flow improver, 20% wash

I think the %s are way off.  Not that I am in any way an expert, but...

Firstly, let's look at  what you're mixing with.  I have no idea exactly what the GW washes are composed of but the two I have used - black and brown - I forget their silly names - are about as good as ink washes but dry matt.  Personally, I dilute these hardly at all and if I do it's just water as they are ready to use straight from the pot.  So in effect you are diluting a ready-to-use wash with lots of water AND lots of flow-improver.  (Why are you thinning by the way?  With mine, undiluted, I often need two washes to achieve the desired effect.)

Personally with normal acrylic paint - which has not, unlike the GW wash, already been diluted - I add a drop of flow improver to my water then add a drop of that to my paint.  In other words, though I don't worry about exact quantities, that must work out at 80% paint, 15% water and only 5% flow improver.

To confirm whether or not it is the flow improver on it's own or a combination of your mix - as it might be a reaction with something in the wash, I suggest you brush some neat flow improver onto a test figure and see if it dries.

Good luck.

[ErikB]

Thanks for the response, Orctrader.  Good ideas.

When I use those GW washes it darkens everything.  I then must repaint a lot of the surfaces that have been washed, even when mixed with water it leaves a ring of smudge when it dries.

I have found that I get the results I am after only when I am trying to blend the sharp demarcation between a lighter and darker color, say, if I had a wrinkled surface and had drybrushed to get the raised parts. 

Otherwise, those washes are so concentrated that it just darkens the color unrecognizably.  Even if I paint a straight line on some flat surface there will be a serious darkening.  I'm amazed that you use several layers.  If I did that with brown or black it would simply be opaque.

What I'm trying to do is to create shadows in recesses without discoloring the main surface.  Mostly, it's for wrinkles in cloth that I painted over with the second coat.  If I paint such wrinkles regularly then there is no tapering off of the shade - the change of color is too sudden.

Does this make sense?  I really liked those old inks.  I'm trying to recreate them.

[G2]

From what I have read the usual formula is " add 1 part of the flow improver to 10 parts water". Then you mix this magic substance with your paint.


Here is link which has some percentage breakdowns using 'flow improver'. I hope this helps.

http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15

[ErikB]

Great.  Thanks folks.

I'll mix a pot of water and FI and then use that instead of dropping it on a pallet.

Still, I wonder if the FI is what's causing the stickiness.

[DS615]

If you're having a heat wave, you've likely got high humidity too.
Humidity does all sorts of weird stuff to paint, not the least of which is making it "dry" tacky.

Try putting the mini in the fridge to dry.  Odd, I know, but it has solved similar issues for me in the past.

[Orctrader]

When I use those GW washes it darkens everything. 

A wash will do that - but leave the recesses darker.  I wash, for example, metal work - both metallic paint and NMM.  With metallic paint I'll take it upto a very bright highlight then - once completely dry, apply the wash.  Though the "high points" are also darkened it was "overly" bright before.  With NMM I retouch any parts I want to "brighten."

...even when mixed with water it leaves a ring of smudge when it dries.

It is the water that is making the "smudge."

I'm amazed that you use several layers.  If I did that with brown or black it would simply be opaque.

I use washes occasionally, and sparingly.  I would not wash an entire figure - well, have not to date.  I would use on leather, for example where I want a wash to darken further.

...I really liked those old inks.  I'm trying to recreate them.

I use Coat d' Arms ink washes.  And those I do dilute.  Use them for glazes too.

Hope that helps.   

[ErikB]

It was "overly" bright before. 

I'm just starting to figure that out.  Thanks for reinforcing the idea.  I'll be mindful of that now.

It is the water that is making the "smudge."

That's why I'm trying the flow-improver to thin out washes instead.  Still working on getting the mixture right.

I use Coat d' Arms ink washes.  And those I do dilute.  Use them for glazes too.

Dilute with what?  Water?  I'll see if I can find that brand.

Thanks heaps.

[Orctrader]

Dilute with what?  Water?  I'll see if I can find that brand.

For the CDA ink washes, water is all I use - though I suppose it depends on the "quality" of tap water in any particular area.

I buy CDA paints HERE