Rivets

[AllenW]

I am trying to convert a submarine model to a VSF submarine game I am working on.  The sub needs rivets to give it a period/genre look but I don't know how to make them.  Since a lot are needed is there an easy way to do them?

Thanks,

Al

[Cat]

What are you making the sub out of?

The easy way I know how to make rivets is to build with sheet styrene.  Mark the back of the sheet and press with a blunt awl to raise rivets on the other side.  Be careful not to punch through the plastic [too many times, use a tiny dab of Testor's Contour Putty to correct punches].

The other way is to buy model railroad rivets and glue them on.  Takes more time.  Doesn't punch any holes. http://www.grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20details/augmentables.html

[The_Beast]

I see a number of suggestions. One a friend did was individually cut from small bamboo rods. We don't call him 'crazy man' for nought.

Of those I've heard of, but not tried, two that sound interesting include 'if styrene, touch with hot pin, and pull away. Some plastic will rise, then settle in a bump,' and 'dimensional fabric paint; just dot a string of rivets.'

Doug

[Pendrake]

I bought a tiny package (but 350 Count) of tiny pins for this very purpose yesterday. A couple of buck$ at Wal*mart.

[Schogun]

Mix some 5-minute epoxy (but not too much). Use a toothpick to dab epoxy dots onto the model. A sharp toothpick makes small rivets; a blunt tip makes bigger rivets. You can easily get 100 or more rivets out of a single epoxy batch before it gets sticky and stringy. Mix another batch and off you go!

2-minute epoxy sets up too fast. 10-minute epoxy is thinner, so will spread and makes bigger, flatter rivets.

PVC glue and super glue does not work with this method.

[Traveler Man]

Small dots of 3D fabric paint works. It's available in bronze and black.

[Captain Darling]

Sewing pins are the go for me, consistent rivet heads every time just pre drill the spot and supaglue into place 

I think this is the same as Pendrakes suggestion above...

[The_Beast]

Small dots of 3D fabric paint works. It's available in bronze and black.

Also known as  'dimensional fabric paint', which I mentioned above.

Sewing pins are the go for me, consistent rivet heads every time just pre drill the spot and supaglue into place 

I think this is the same as Pendrakes suggestion above...

Which is SO much less work than individual pieces of bamboo, or some other snipped dowel... 

Doug

[Davros]

    Here is something you should look at:

AntiMatter Games is preparing to launch our next Kickstarter project to fund a submarine for the Fortune Hunters force. The project, DeepWars - Hunters of the Abyss, will also include new miniatures for other forces and hopefully will gain enough funding to help produce other submersibles. The link to the WIP project page is below and we appreciate any feedback or requests.


www.kickstarter.com/projects/524168246/1932110195?token=a8a9200d

[SpaceGoblin]

Yes-as Traveler Man said-I think it's called 'puffy paint'. Very quick and does the job nicely- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tulip-Fabric-Paint-Slick-Black/dp/B004BQ01CQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497728997&sr=8-5&keywords=puffy+paint

I used the stuff on my dino-fortress (if you want an example of how it looks)- http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=88179.msg1088220#msg1088220

It's very quick vs other methods.

[AllenW]

Cat,

The sub I am converting is a plastic model of a pre WWI Russian submarine.  Rivets seem like a good way to modify its look for VSF.  Nothing fancy just adding some fins and (hopefully) some rivets.

Al

[Cat]

The sub I am converting is a plastic model of a pre WWI Russian submarine.  Rivets seem like a good way to modify its look for VSF.  Nothing fancy just adding some fins and (hopefully) some rivets.

Depending on the shape and thickness of the model parts, you may be able to awl-press the rivets right into the hull pieces.

If you want rivets on the fins, then make each one with two pieces of sheet styrene and glue them back to back.
 
Since plastic models already have nice crisp details, I would lean towards using the plastic rivet heads from the model railroad suppliers.  They will give you precise consistent shapes that will look like they were part of the kit.
 
I've used both techniques.

[Rich H]

Rivets you say....
Swiss graining tool and greenstuff or miliput... tedious but very nice rivets.


Archer precision transfers.  Fiddly to begin with but give very nice rivets


Swiss graining tool just pressed into the plasticard.  Suitable for recessed rivets.

[The_Beast]

The sub I am converting is a plastic model of a pre WWI Russian submarine.  Rivets seem like a good way to modify its look for VSF.  Nothing fancy just adding some fins and (hopefully) some rivets.

Assuming polystyrene, may I suggest  you find a piece of scrap from the kit, could try sprue, and give the heated pin a try?

If one could get the timing and heating right, should be relatively consistant.

Doug

[digid]

I have done some by drilling small holes and gluing in tiny balls that I purchased. The balls are used to add texture to women's finger nails. This worked very well, not all the little balls are the same size, but it was easy to pick out similar sized balls. Not sure what they are made of, but once glued and painted the effect was very good.

Dale