(COMMERCIAL) Empress Miniatures' NEW Vietnam Range

[Poiter50]

Carlos, you may think you are being funny but if this was FB, you would be in the sin bin.

[carlos marighela]

C’est la vie. Alas for Tasmanians and the po-faced everywhere, none of my time or money (at least that I know of) flows to Mr Zuckerberg and his marvellous means of misinformation.

I know I should be more charitable to our friends from the Apple Isle. After all they gave us the towering intellects that are David Boon and Ricky Ponting.

[Andrew_McGuire]

Just no incest jokes, all right? I've heard a couple of good ones, but I'm sure you know them.

[Munindk]

OI!
The next queen of Denmark is from Tasmania and her husband the crown prince is the danish equivalent of a Navy Seal (only better). Don’t make us come down under and kick you asses.

I'm not much of a royalist, but I do like the Crown Prince and out Tasmanian queen to be.

[tomrommel1]

Very nice additions to the range!

[Paul @ Empress Miniatures]

Some M113's with ARVN crews.

[Bravo Six]

Gorgeous kits Paul! 

[Ultravanillasmurf]

Very nice models.

[Paul @ Empress Miniatures]

So glad you like the M113's 

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

Dear Paul,

What colours do you use for American vehicles and helicopters?

I have been using Vallejo US Dark Green 70.893 for Army Vehicles and Camouflage Olive Green 70.894 for the PBR boat (this used to be called Russian Green).

I think helicopters should be Brown Violet 70.887.

[Paul @ Empress Miniatures]

Dear Paul,

What colours do you use for American vehicles and helicopters?

I have been using Vallejo US Dark Green 70.893 for Army Vehicles and Camouflage Olive Green 70.894 for the PBR boat (this used to be called Russian Green).

I think helicopters should be Brown Violet 70.887.

Its kinda complicated but I will explain;

I use Tamiya XF-74 which is the period 'Olive' green acrylic paint.

I then wash with one of those washes that when dry you can go back and add water to remove a lot but gives depth.

Then dry brush with the original colour.
Then dry brush with Tamiya Olive Green which is a lighter greener colour.
The dry brush with Valejo Iraqi sand a linen colour.

After that I may use an AK rain marks paint if I think its relevant.

Then I  use a mud wash such as AK Dark brown mud wash.

I may use MIG powders although you have to use a fixative otherwise they disappear with handling or if you then varnish.

Hope that makes sense?

In reference to colours Marine vehicles, noticeably helicopters, seem to a lighter more jungle green earlier but seem to move onto the standard green mentioned at the start of this later in the war. However I have been doing the 1967 ONWARDS so have not researched anything yet.

I have some Trumpeter H-34 choppers to do and looking at the painting chart it says this.

Khaki Green Mr Hobby H80/54 - Acrysion N80 - Vallejo 924 - Tamiya XF51 - Humbrol 159

I will investigate the Tamiya paint and hopefully I have a few jars in the racks.

Hope that helps?

 

 

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

@ Paul
Thank-you.

[Curassier]

Paul
Another "chopper" question.
What is the best way to represent the helicopter rotors in a model destined for the war-games table ? How do you do it ?
All best
Jonathan

[carlos marighela]

I use the rotor blades on my UH-1 helicopters but as the rotor head and attached blades are not glued to the aircraft, they can be removed for storage.

My CH-46 is a diecast which has folding blades, much like the real thing. With both, if you are so minded, you can rotate the blades and make wocka-wocka noises to your heart’s content.

In this scale a perspex or shirt box plastic clear disk would be a fairly large item. Huey blades in 1/48 are around 10” in length. Heavy if using perspex and would require some support if using a lighter transparent material, so to my mind more trouble than it is worth.

[has.been]

There is a company that sells 'Blades in motion' for planes at least (can't remember who though)
They look brilliant, but are expensive.
Carlos is right about the difficulties, but I would go for 'shirt box' and not the whole 'disc' of the
rotor blades, just a 'blurred' (i.e. narrow triangles) of them. After all if drawing something & you
want to show motion you blur it.  Then with a compass & indelible pen (or various circular things
to draw around) you could add a few motion lines. If the rotors have coloured tips then a smudge
of that colour will also help the illusion.