Pinning into thin steel washers?

[Mr.Marx]

Hey all,

Has anyone got any experience pinning the feet of figures into steel washers? Particularly, making holes in the washers?

I've seen various 'jewellery punches' online, but they are not suggested for use with steel. Has anyone given these a go?

I've gone for 1.5mm thick steel penny washers over other basing options for the added weight & stability, and the ease of magnetic storage.

Cheers,

Mr.Marx.

[Daeothar]

I've drilled a steel washer for a particularly daintily posed miniature once (standing on the toes of just one foot ), as without the tab, there would have been too small a surface area to simply glue it down. So I just  had to pin it.

But as I recall, the experience was not a great one. I broke a drill bit because I was being too vigorous at first (I also used an electrical drill, as a pin vice would just not cut it), and the added surface of the sides of the hole is actually negligible. So the very short pin will still be broken loose (and has been on several occasions) from its superglue bond at even the slightest amount of torque or pull.

I only did that one miniature like that, and immediately reverted to another method. Now I pin the miniature, and then twist the very long pin sticking out into a circle, which I will then either glue onto the washer, and then cover with green stuff, or I make the circle a bit smaller and fit it into the washer's hole, Which I then also cover with green stuff.

This method has not resulted in any breakages so far, and is a whole hell of a lot easier to pull off than drilling holes into steel washers. Not to mention the disappointing results of the drilling method...

[Brandlin]

You should be able to drill a washer with any standard drill bit (HSS - high Speed Steel). An electric drill will be easier but it is entirely possible wih a hand drill - you wont be able to do it in a pin vise.

I'm going to guess as you are pinning that you are in the sub 1mm hole size. The biggest problem you will have is applying consistent pressure without bending and snapping the drill bit. The easiest way around this is a pillar drill or a clamp/stand for your hand drill.

I've not had a single figure separate from such a hole if you know how to drill it. I use a 0.8mm drill as this is the same diameter as almost all standard paperclips which I use for pinning. The fit between hole and pin is good enough that i need thin superglue to penetrate using capillary action.

As Daeothar suggests super glue has very poor strength in sheer. So you need a good fit between hole and pin. Many people think super glue gel or thick superglue is a gap filler - it isn't.

[Daeothar]

I did the very same; I have drill bits in the exact diameter as the wire I use, so no strange things there. However; the surface area you gain by drilling as opposed to glueing the feet flat on the base really is negligible. And when solely depending on this tiny contact surface for the miniature to stick to the base, you'll need a stronger bond than superglue can provide. I've never used epoxy glue, but I understand it's much stronger.

I've also contemplated soldering (flying) pins to the base, but for that to work, ideally, the washers ought to be copper or brass (Or silver. But I don't think so ), as (galvanized steel is not ideal for that. Still; the idea has some merit. Think about using pennies and copper wire...

Many people think super glue gel or thick superglue is a gap filler - it isn't.

Actually, the gel variant can be used pretty effectively in such a role, especially in combination with baking soda, but only aesthetically, not structurally!

[Rich H]

Use a new HSS drill and a battery drill, centre punch a dimple to start the drill off to stop it wandering around.
Go steady with even pressure and stop every second of so to clear the swarf. 
Lubrication should not be needed and it should produce swarf immediately if not then the drill isn't sharp enough or you aren't pushing firmly enough.
Drill right through and onto a bit of wood.  The hole will end up slightly over size and most likley slightly oval but thats not a big problem.
Beware of the drill snapping or bending - watch your fingers and take suitable precautions.

Pinning provides a lot better support than not.  I use it with my clear bases regularly for one-footed minis. 

Note mild steel washers are what you want (Or 1p/2p coins) stainless steel washers will be very hard to drill as they are extremely hard.

[snitcythedog]

Why not alleviate the need and fill the center with a hard putty like milliput then drill into that?  I know it will limit where the model can go but it would solve the problem of drilling into the hard metal.  You might find washers with a big enough center to help with positioning. 

[Blackwolf]

Yep,electric drill,proper drill bits for steel,a hole punch to ding the metal, and a vice. To secure the washer in the vice foam rubber is good,and take it slowly, oh and goggles 

[FifteensAway]

 Daeothar is your man here.  Even two part epoxy won't resist certain types of shear.  And there are too many hazards - including safety hazards - for the drilling approach.  Basing some figures can be a real challenge.  Good luck.

[PhilB]

Most figures really don't need to be pinned. Most of the figures I've clipped and filed off of slotta bases seem to have relatively big feet, and the gel-type superglue seems to do the trick. I was more worried about the thin ankles breaking than the glue bond.

All my figures are on 1"/2.5cm washers. True, most have an integral base which I then hide with some sand and more superglue (usually the liquid kind, to soak into the sand) so the problem rarely arises, but in the two or three instances where a figure has become unstuck, I just reglue it back and very rarely have problems.

If the figure has very little ground contact surface, I guess a pin would indeed be best. Of all the methods suggested here, I would think the best option would be making a loop of wire to correspond to the washer hole diameter, gluing it, then filling the hole with green stuff or similar epoxy filler.

[Captain Harlock]

I would recommend some e9000 glue. Its very strong but also flexible so the mini wont snap of the base.

[pacarat]

I’ve had good luck using an inverted thumb tack hot glued to the washer. Head of tack gives lots of surface area for the hot glue. Then basing material to cover the tack head.