Attaching Shields to metal figures advice please.

[Johnny Boy]

Evening all, about a year ago I got into Early Imperial Romans and their adversaries Celts, Germans etc. Went for the plastic option and by scraping the hand or raised area to bare plastic the glue does it's job. Now I've moved forward in time to the Baron's Wars and the Footsore figures for these conflicts. I don't really trust super glue metal to metal so I was looking for suggestions to get a good solid connection. Would drilling and pinning be an option? Or would the Shields not be thick enough? As I said any suggestions would be most gratefully received.Many thanks in advance
Johnny Boy

[has.been]

I use epoxy resin (two part).
I also use putty to hold the figure & shield in place until it sets solid.

[AndrewBeasley]

I know you have an issue with Superglue but have to ask runny or gel?


I've found a great result can be had with the gel glue where you have something rough to key to. A scratch on the back of the shield and arm works way better than I expected.


I would NEVER stick arms on where the surfaces are flat (even after roughing up) saying that 

[Emir of Askaristan]

A dot of Superglue (I too prefer the gel) on one part and a bead of PVA on the other.

Each uses the properties of the other and cures harder than pva and less brittle than superglue.

It also can fill a gap, like a shield recess, or between a rider and a saddle if you use a little more than a bead. The join can be untidy if too much is used, but if you're hiding it behind the shield it will be ok. On more exposed parts a scalpel or file will smooth it once dry.
 

[Johnny Boy]

Many thanks folks, much appreciated. Let's face it, there's not many sights more soul destroying than when bits fall off, especially mid game It's one of many reasons I became a bit of a plastics convert but the Footsore Baron's War range I can't resist. Scoring of flat surfaces really helps in all sorts of applications but I do like the PVA-Superglue Gel system so I'm going to give it a go. Just curiosity tho, would drilling and pinning be an option?

[Pan Marek]

Where are you located?   Here in the states, we have a contact cement called-  Goop.  Its widely available in hardware and craft stores, and Amazon sells it.   It is indeed "goopy" but stays where you put it.  It dries clear and rubbery, and takes paint well.
Its not pretty, but when using it for shields, it will likely be in a hidden place.  Its not brittle like super glue, so doesn't break when a figure is handled.

I use it to base figures and stick riders on horses.  Works great.

[dadlamassu]

I use clear UHU glue and have done so for more more years than I care to remember.  It is fairly strong, dries clear and is a bit flexible so absorbs being dropped (most of the time).  Important when grandchildren play the games. 

[Major_Gilbear]

I have always pinned any joints that were liable to break, and (madman that I am), that includes shields. Before gluing the pin in (I use brass for my pins), I roll them firmly against a cutting mat with a hobby file to roughen them up first - that way, even if the pin is short it still has the best possible grip. Additionally, if the hole for the pin is shallow, I file the end of the pin flat to get the most surface contact between the pin and the hole.

If you don't fancy all the faff of pinning, you can use a number of good-quality specialist glues instead. Many people swear by Gorilla Glue, which is a superglue with a small amount of rubber in it to help keep it slightly flexible after it's cured. (link).

As others have suggested, a two-part quick-cure epoxy glue like Araldite is also pretty good, and I believe some brands do a flexible version too.

[Mindenbrush]

I drill very small holes in the hand or arm where the shield will fit and the same with the shield if it is thick enough.
Clean off any paint in the contact areas and then use Regular not 5 minute Araldite 2 part epoxy to bond the shield in place.
Blutak is used to make sure the shield stays in place during the 24 hour cure cycle.
When cured I will add a drop of superglue if the shield contacts a spear shaft or leg as an additional bonding area.
Then varnish.

[soldieroftheline]

I drill and pin, using a small piece of wire spear for the pin. Usually superglued to the shield and then when dry, glued to the figure with epoxy. Drilling the shield can be tricky but even when I do drill through it's not really noticable once painted, especially as it should be on the shield boss. If I don't quite get the hole in the figure in the right place either that's also doesn't generally stand out once painted.

[SotF]

One thing that I've seen used is to drill a small hole in the metal where you want to attach the plastic shield, then take a piece of spue and some superglue to work it into the hole. When the superglue is done, you can use plastic glue to attach the shield

[Johnny Boy]

Once again many thanks to you all. Several options there to try. I think I'll give the pinning a go first and go with that for a secure fix. Well, til I draw blood anyway