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ok. I'm trying to remember this from memory. I used a Folk Art(craft paint) colour called Camel as the tan base colour. Then i hit it with a sepia wash. I cover the whole model. the Light shade wash from Army painter is probably pretty close for the wash. I used GW Knarloc green(original base green) with the Original GW green wash. The Panhard 178s were painted earlier this year, about 8 years after the Hotchkiss 39s. same basic technique, but i replicated the green With ordic olive from Privateer press, and a combination of GW Biel-Tan green and Athonian camoshade, 1:1 ratio. i think you could probably use an army painter green. I'm pretty sure if you look online you can find a conversion chart for which AP green is closest to Knarloc green. and you can probably substitute army painter military shade mixed with Army Painter green wash.I then heavily dry brushed the running wheels with something like snakebite leather, and then a bleached bone colour over that. then i finished them with an AK interactive/Ammo enamel filter. Brown filter for green I think. I also grab a bit of 3M scrub pat and some brown-black paint and mark up the edges of the models to look like scratches and knicks etc.I always start with a white primer. if you can fined a suitable yellow-tan primer, go for it. something similar to Vallejo Spray , Bone white, would work. its a wee bit less yellow then the colour i was working with, but its close.Cheers!SteveHope that helps.
well, If you check the links above I have posted my Early War Germans
when i bought the figures, no Soviets in the early helmets, nor Temperate Japanese were available.