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Author Topic: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale  (Read 2322 times)

Offline Vanvlak

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How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« on: March 08, 2020, 02:48:10 PM »
This is not a good guide on making a gaming surface, for a number of reasons, which will be explained as this thread goes along.

The first reason why this is NOT the way to go about it has to do with is why this project started: it's a reaction to not managing to start (let alone finish!) my Build Something Competition 2020 entry due to work, and an opportunistic approach to getting a quick win by way of recompense, an easily and rapidly built gaming surface. From experience, rebound projects tend to never get done, or are dissatisfying. Let's see how this goes.

Reason 2: the design will be dictated by storage - it has to be flat and not larger than 2' x 2'. The former resulted in the choice of target scenario at which the board is dedicated, 1:1200 models - even a high hill can be reasonably flat in this scale! I also realised I have a bit of a nostalgic pang for Aeronef, and a pile of models stashed away, so....
Don't do this - a design should not be dictated by necessity. Or should it....?  ;D

Reason 3: sheer opportunism. I have a largish bit of scenery which I have been itching to use, but never found a good opportunity to do so. It's in the way, so getting it out of space it is occupying uselessly is a plus!

At some point, hopefully later today, there will be photos.


Offline Codsticker

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2020, 02:52:21 PM »
"How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale"... could be very informative. :D

Offline Vanvlak

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2020, 05:14:21 PM »
Don't count on it  :D

As promised, the first pics. This will probably only progress on weekends, so there are likely to be no updates, other than the odd unhelpful comment from me, during the week  >:D

Some of you may remember the large-ish green box I had found, and which I was thinking of using as a grassy surface - albeit a rather garish shade of green more akin to anything in Oompah-Loompah land than real life. That project (typically) never materialised. Here is the box, today:



Let's open it:



And take a closed look at what's inside:



That's a stack of laser-cut paper contours which were once part of an architecture student project.
I had to trim the edge of these (and kept it for future need!) with a jig-saw to have this fit in the box. I will need to place a surface on the box, probably a water surface. The contours will remain as such, as I am after a stylized look rather than an accurate depiction of terrain. It also smacks nostalgically of the old hills with flat stepped surfaces for safely placing regiments on. The green fabric box containing the board fits in with the Victorian (or Edwardian) Aeronef theme, and could just look classy in spite of its outlandish colour too.

Here are more reasons why this is NOT how to make a gaming surface:
1) Both components (so far) were serendipitous finds. You'd have to be lucky to find both, so it can't be replicated - unless you recreate the idea of course.
2) One of the two - the architecture model - was found in a skip. OK, I admit I saw part of it sticking out, I don't always go rummaging in skips. Not every day, anyway... the one near the faculty which has its students make these models is SO tantalizing!  :o
3) I had to use a jig-saw to cut paper. That is not the correct way to cut paper; you should try scissors, or a blade. Admittedly, these were a rather thick was, like cutting an entire pack of cards together, so I might be excused I guess.

I didn't bother much with designing to specifications, I just cut the card contours to fit the box I happen to have - at least I did that much! Unfortunately it now gets less lazy, as I have to fit a base, and decide on the water surface; fit the contours in place neatly; and see if I have other bits from the same model I can use as an island.

Following that, more decisions - do I just paint the contours different colours, as in a map, or go for a semi-realistic paint scheme? And do I add (really flat, to fit in the low box) buildings?

Watch this space.

Offline AndrewBeasley

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2020, 11:47:03 PM »
Nice to see the paper contouring.  I did this but ended up with rather crude cuts due to the thickness of card I was using.


In the end I used thin craft foam as it is easy to cut and gave a reasonable depth for the Brigade Models Land Ironclads.  As long as I was careful with getting the glue right to the edge I had no issues with it.


Offline Blackwolf

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2020, 12:10:21 AM »
For some reason I find it very attractive, looks like late last century modern art. If all else fails you could hang in up :)
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Offline Vanvlak

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2020, 07:15:46 AM »
For some reason I find it very attractive, looks like late last century modern art. If all else fails you could hang in up :)
Can I confess the mash-up of this stuff is in part inspired by a print I bought the wife - from that very same period ?  :D

Offline Vanvlak

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2020, 07:22:13 AM »
Nice to see the paper contouring.  I did this but ended up with rather crude cuts due to the thickness of card I was using.


In the end I used thin craft foam as it is easy to cut and gave a reasonable depth for the Brigade Models Land Ironclads.  As long as I was careful with getting the glue right to the edge I had no issues with it.
You could try looking in skips...  ;D
Seriously, though, can't offer advice on this as I found mine. I am almost certain it is laser-cut, as there is the characteristic burn mark around the edges. I think the cutting was commercially done in this case. A lot of time and a good blade, with spares, should also do the trick if you have a steady hand, but I imagine it would take a while. I was lucky, I guess.

Next:
1) lining the inside edge of the box - I have a plan, which obviously involves more discarded material
2) the inside base (beyond the contours, that is), still very undecided, I have some materials I'd like to try out.
3) the colour scheme for the contours - this will make or break the whole thing, I guess: do I go for those almost-pastel traditional map shades, do I go for an older cream and brown with sepia stains, or more realistic greys, browns and a bit of flock?


Offline AndrewBeasley

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2020, 01:04:41 AM »
I do not think the flock would work as you will get bumps and have a gap between the sheets...


I do like the old faded look but would that make every battle take place in a desert?


Offline Burgundavia

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2020, 04:47:02 AM »
The first reason why this is NOT the way to go about it has to do with is why this project started: it's a reaction to not managing to start (let alone finish!) my Build Something Competition 2020 entry due to work, and an opportunistic approach to getting a quick win by way of recompense, an easily and rapidly built gaming surface. From experience, rebound projects tend to never get done, or are dissatisfying. Let's see how this goes.

I am just getting into 1:1200 terrain (for WW2 coastal and ACW Naval) and I failed to even start my BS 2020. Looking forward to this.

Offline Vanvlak

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2020, 06:35:03 AM »
I do not think the flock would work as you will get bumps and have a gap between the sheets...


I do like the old faded look but would that make every battle take place in a desert?
I agree with both observations - and confess I haven't found a solution yet. I'm also starting to think the flock will also look horribly out of scale.I'd prefer desert to that, although not ideal.
I do have two alternatives:
1) layered rock appearance in shades of brown - again a bit desert-y, although that can be fixed with some areas having veg (of some sort)
2) go non-realistic and paint these as c. 1910 style maps - with the models on board they could look a bit like the sequences in the Indiana Jones films where you get an aeroplane travelling across continents. Sort of.

Offline Vanvlak

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2020, 06:36:35 AM »
I am just getting into 1:1200 terrain (for WW2 coastal and ACW Naval) and I failed to even start my BS 2020. Looking forward to this.
Same here with the BSC this year  :(
I haven't (already!) stopped this, COVID got in the way as the department is adopting online teaching on a wider scale, and I', n the thick of it.

Offline Vanvlak

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2020, 05:12:05 PM »
A spot of progress.
Here is the mock up of the box, with the new base fitted and the landscape as it would appear when completed. The interior edges will be lined with the wood strip which can be seen as a dark brown edge.



So far the only material which was not somehow scavenged was the PVA glue I used to stick the new plasticard base, all the rest was salvaged or saved from scrapped stuff - not bad!

Offline AndrewBeasley

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2020, 06:52:21 PM »
Wonder if you could get away with just painting woods, cliffs and rivers while leaving the rest plain?

Offline Vanvlak

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2020, 08:16:42 AM »
Wonder if you could get away with just painting woods, cliffs and rivers while leaving the rest plain?
Thinking abut it.
This is one of those cases when in modelling and painting you'd really see the need for an undo button  :D

Offline FramFramson

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Re: How not to make a small gaming board in 1:1200 scale
« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2020, 06:56:11 PM »
Thinking abut it.
This is one of those cases when in modelling and painting you'd really see the need for an undo button  :D

Sometimes when I'm in this situation I try sticking an image of the item in it's current state in photoshop and trying different overlays to see how a final product would look. Bit of a pain in the ass, but it's broken the old 'choice-paralysis' more than a few times!


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