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Author Topic: The battle of Hastings in 28mm  (Read 2766 times)

Offline Dervel

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The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« on: March 14, 2020, 03:37:38 PM »
These are a couple years old, but some pictures of my Hastings Battle Board.  It was the first big fixed piece battle terrain I ever built and I was very happy with the way it came out.  Even more thrilled that the battle was a blast to play using Triumph!  It was a battle I always wanted to recreate and it was amazing how well the rule system recreated the ebb and flow of the battle with the Normans trying to pull the Saxons off the hill and the Saxons desperately trying to hold the line together.

Online OSHIROmodels

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2020, 03:40:22 PM »
Splendid  :)
cheers

James

https://www.oshiromodels.co.uk/

Twitter account -     @OSHIROmodels
Instagram account - oshiromodels

http://redplanetminiatures.blogspot.co.uk/
http://jimbibblyblog.blogspot.com/

Offline Atheling

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2020, 03:48:40 PM »
Whoop!  :-* :-* :-*

Beautifully rendered workmanship  8)

Did you support the sides of the foam/polystyrene with wood?

Offline Dervel

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2020, 04:17:20 PM »
Yes, the wood is not necessary, it is really just to avoid "chipping" which allows pink to show which I hate.  Picture from the build process.  Also the wood allowed me to mount special boat clamps which pull the assembly together and hold it during play.

Offline Atheling

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2020, 04:30:43 PM »
Thanks for that Dervel and for the illustrations as well.

It gives me a bit more confidence to get stuck into making my first lot  8)

Offline Dervel

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2020, 08:13:00 PM »
You are welcome, believe it or not the biggest challenge is gluing the foam to itself and to the wood sides.

For that I have discovered Glidden Gripper (now by PPG - so called PPG gripper) Primer.  It is a latex based paint that has adhesive in it.  it still dries slow when no air can get to it, but it works as a combo paint, primer, glue and will glue the wood to the foam and the foam to itself.

The tan base color you see is actually the primer tinted tan, that is about as dark as you can tint it though.

Offline Atheling

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2020, 08:31:00 PM »
You are welcome, believe it or not the biggest challenge is gluing the foam to itself and to the wood sides.

For that I have discovered Glidden Gripper (now by PPG - so called PPG gripper) Primer.  It is a latex based paint that has adhesive in it.  it still dries slow when no air can get to it, but it works as a combo paint, primer, glue and will glue the wood to the foam and the foam to itself.

I was thinking of using a contact adhesive as i have been advised that this would reduce any warping. I'm planning on just using the foam boards as is with no mdf glued underneath.

Offline Dervel

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2020, 08:55:27 PM »
Warping not really been an issue if you are layering the foam board.  Contact adhesive should work as long as it is not solvent based.

Offline Atheling

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2020, 09:06:14 PM »
Warping not really been an issue if you are layering the foam board.  Contact adhesive should work as long as it is not solvent based.

Yeah, that's an issue I've been made aware of.

Would I get away with just using PVA and sand etc to texture the Foamboards without mdf and avoid warping?

What do you think?

Offline Dervel

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #9 on: March 14, 2020, 09:18:15 PM »
I use Elmers PVA watered down.  Recently did some flat 1.5" pink foam boards with no layers or plywood sides (I don't like MDF because it is heavy, so I use Luan / plywood),  but the non-reinforced ones were fine.

From what I can see the foam board does not warp too bad, raw mdf would warp more than a 1.5-2" foam sheet from the glue and paint, the plywood edges do help, the other reason I use the wood edges is because I also use wooden dowels to peg the boards together and then over center clamps to lock them in place.  You can see a clamp in this picture of Hattin in process.

 

Offline Atheling

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2020, 10:09:18 PM »
That looks the business. After consulting several people it seems that i have come to a conclusion re: whether to use wood under the foam or not.

The conclusion being not.

Thanks for your help Dervel  8)

Offline Dervel

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2020, 12:01:24 AM »
I would agree, I only use it on the edges, not under.

Offline Atheling

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2020, 07:10:59 AM »
I would agree, I only use it on the edges, not under.

I might well follow your model, what sort of thickness are you using on the edges?

Offline Dervel

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2020, 12:53:29 PM »
1/8" or 3mm depending on where you are.  I like Luan because it is light and relatively inexpensive, Baltic birch ply available in 3mm is also a good choice.

I don't use MDF typically because of weight, plus many versions of MDF are more susceptible to warp.

If used on the side edges it helps keep thing straight and minimizes chips in the foam.   Then with some well placed dowels and holes, you can keep things lined up when you slide the sections together.  Add the over center clamps and the whole thing becomes very stable.

Offline Atheling

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Re: The battle of Hastings in 28mm
« Reply #14 on: March 15, 2020, 02:27:26 PM »
1/8" or 3mm depending on where you are.  I like Luan because it is light and relatively inexpensive, Baltic birch ply available in 3mm is also a good choice.

I don't use MDF typically because of weight, plus many versions of MDF are more susceptible to warp.

If used on the side edges it helps keep thing straight and minimizes chips in the foam.   Then with some well placed dowels and holes, you can keep things lined up when you slide the sections together.  Add the over center clamps and the whole thing becomes very stable.

Thanks again Dervel, you've been more than accommodating  8)