Mick photographs Miniatures (updated 26/5/2020)

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

Here is my photography studio. I recently wrote a book and I had to photograph step by step sequences, so I have invested in my camera and accessories.

I have a Canon DSLR mounted on a tripod. This camera is a Canon 60D and it is shown with an 18-200mm zoom lens and a remote shutter switch.
The camera model is not actually important - I also have a much cheaper Canon 1200D which is just as good with the same set up.
The model is in a cheap folding light box with LED lighting. I have a video light on top of the camera to give more light from the front (if I want it).
All of this bright light means that I can take a photograph with a very slow shutter speed of 1/30 and get maximum depth of field.
The background is pale grey foam rubber.



Here is a view of the camera so that you can see the accessories.
The lens is an EFS 18-200mm Zoom which allowed me to frame the large model but I tend to use an EF 100mm Macro Lens for 20-35mm figures.
The remote is convenient but you could just use the built in timer to prevent camera shake. The video light is completely optional.
There is a lens hood that is fitted backwards so it is not doing anything - it is used to shade the lens in bright sunlight.



Here is a picture of the Star Wars Legion AT-ST, which is 190mm tall on a 100mm diameter acrylic base (from Sarissa Precision).
This was taken using the zoom at 35mm with aperture F 7 and shutter speed of 1/25.
The camera achieved this at (automatic) ISO100 which is good for colour quality.

EDIT - I have just found out that the shields on the upper leg should be facing down, because I have the parts on the wrong sides, so I have changed them but I will have to rework the weathering so that it looks ok.



Here is a picture of the Star Wars Legion Shoretroopers, which are about 35 mm tall on a 25mm diameter acrylic bases.
This was taken using the 100mm Macro Lens with aperture F 14, ISO 100 and shutter speed of 1/10.

[fred]

Thanks Mick

Very useful.

I have most of these pieces of kit (except the video light). But I tend to lack the patience to get all the pieces assembled, and tend to use the light box with my iPhone, which gives OK results, but nowhere near the level you are getting.

Do you have a link to the video light (or a similar one)?

Do you always shoot in daylight, or do you have enough artificial light in this setup to shoot at any time of day?

[Hammers]

Great stuff, Mick! Just the kind of post I am hoping to see more of in this board. Thanks!

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

@Fred
There is enough light to take pictures at night or on dull winter days.

This is the light box - this model is no longer available but I am sure that the new ones are better. This cost £20 in 2017.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LXDPO7P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the video light. Again, I bought this in 2016, so new ones are probably better. I paid £22.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006OI3Z2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[OSHIROmodels]

Very useful and a simple set up 

[Blackwolf]

Great little tutorial 
I have almost exactly the same setup,used slightly differently so yours is very interesting 
Cheero
Guy

[Ultravanillasmurf]

Very useful, thanks.

[fred]

Thanks Mick - useful to get the links.

I have a very similiar light box, I bought directly from Alibaba last year or so - was around £5 inc shipping.

The light is a great price - found very similar ones on Amazon,  but all are currently at around 1 month delivery due to CV. But might get one ordered anyway, it will turn up before too long.

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

Thank-you for the comments everybody.

Here is the Star Wars Legion AT-ST with the legs correctly assembled so that the knee protectors face down.
If you compare this with the picture in the first post, you can see the difference between a wide angled 35mm picture and a more portrait style 100mm lens.
Also the focus on the second picture is fully sharp of the "face" rather thatn the first which is sharpest on the legs.
This was photographed with the EF 100mm Macro lens from about 1.5 metres away at F14 and a shutter speed of 1/6 and ISO 100.



Another big model, a toy dragon repainted as Smaug.
This was photographed with the EF 100mm Macro lens from about 1.2 metres away at F14 and a shutter speed of 1/5 and ISO 100.

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

Here is an example of a step by step tutorial using Artizan Landsknechts, which came from North Star Military Figures.

Here is the casting, straight from the blister pack. This has been given a wash of Citadel Nuln Oil to bring out the features.
Note the mould vents which look like pimples and spikes on the model (sword, hat)



Removing the mould vent spikes with electronics flush cutters.



Drilling out the hands and chest to make the pike fit neatly using a Pin Chuck. (I actually did this with a Dremel Stylus but that is only for the very confident).



Front Pikes horizontal and rear pikes raised.
Note that the rear figure is to the left of the base and the front figure is to the right - this is essential or the ranks will not fit together.
Figures are turned slightly so that the pikes come out straight.
Note also that the pikes will not be glued until after painting because if I need to shorten them that is done at the back.



Positioning on the bases is very important so that the pikes look even and everything fits neatly on a close order base.

[Codsticker]

I love my AD Andalusians; I wish they made ECW figures like those Landsknecht you have.

[fred]

Thanks Mick - could you post one of the unedited pictures too, please? It would be good to see what you seeing through the camera’s viewfinder / screen vs what you are cropping down to for the end result.

[Hammers]

Man, you need to *moistureize*!

[Von Trinkenessen]

With all this hand washing my hands are starting look like Games Workshop 'Technical' basing paint , I recommend O'Keeffe's Working Hands sold in supermarkets etc inc. Screwfix trade merchants.

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

@Hammers
I do moisturise my hands - but I have also been washing them a lot recently.

@Fred
Yes I will do that with the next photos.