Aperture

[Fitz]

These two photos were taken at the same time, with identical lighting and zoom, and both from a tripod and using the camera's timer to eliminate camera-shake. Both were focused on the same point on the model. The only thing that changed between them was the lens aperture.

On the left, the aperture was f22, on the right, f5.6.

Each of them has their benefits.

The smaller aperture (f22) increases the image's depth of field, so every part of the model is in focus. The background texture is also better defined. The exposure time is long, so a tripod is absolutely necessary.

the larger aperture (f5.6) reduces the depth of field, so the background is significantly out of focus — this has the benefit of separating the model from its background, and the fact that his left hand is also slightly out of focus gives the figure a bit more of a sense of depth. Exposure time was significantly shorter, but still long enough to make tripod use advisable.

The miniature is from Reaper; I think it's a swamp-troll or something.

[Ragnar]

I struggle to remember this stuff so thanks for this.

Doesn't lengthening the aperture time increase the amount of light coming in thereby over exposing the image? 

[Fitz]

Doesn't lengthening the aperture time increase the amount of light coming in thereby over exposing the image?

No, because the smaller aperture allows less light in to begin with — to get the same amount of light overall, with a smaller aperture (that's a bigger f-stop number) you have to increase the exposure time, while with a larger aperture (a smaller f-stop number) you have to decrease exposure time.

It's a balancing act between aperture and exposure. It's mostly handled automatically these days, though any decent camera will allow you to manually adjust the aperture/exposure balance.

[Ragnar]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

[Thargor]

Also worth remembering that the depth of field is affected by the distance between the camera and subject... the closer you are the shallower the depth of field.

There is a formula for it that I've never bothered to learn, but something to think about when photographing groups of figures.

[Plynkes]

The camera I use has a function where you set the depth of field you want and it automatically calculates the exposure time. I have not as yet inquired of the manual about how to separately set the aperture value and the exposure time as mentioned above, as the automatic function has always been satisfactory so far. It's the best method I have discovered with this camera for taking group shots, so as to avoid that thing where one figure is in perfect focus and the rest are slightly out of focus. It has the added bonus that you can take nice pics of minis with ambient lighting (it can take pretty nice pics even in quite low light, it just takes forever to do it), thus avoiding the need for a complicated lighting set-up.

Tripod and either a remote or the timer function are mandatory for doing this, though. Even the vibration caused by pressing the button on the camera is enough to ruin such a shot due to the long exposure times required.

[scatterbrains]

The camera I use has a function where you set the depth of field you want and it automatically calculates the exposure time.

Would that be the Aperture Priority mode?

[Plynkes]

Yes. The little book calls it Aperture-Priority AE. On the camera dial where you actually select the mode this is abbreviated to AV (Aperture Value). Slightly confusing, but I guess they knew what they meant when they did it that way.

[Hammers]

All good stuff.

[Norm]

For that shot I would be inclined to go to f11 and pull the camera further back and then crop later.

[Peithetairos]

Depending on the quality of the lens, you may run into issues with refractions on something like F/22, which can reduce sharpness. I prefer focus stacking these days, if I want to capture a large model in its entirety.

[2010sunburst]

Some Canon cameras also have an A-dep setting whereby you can pick the closest and furthest points of focus and the camera will set up accordingly.  Depth of field is also influenced by the lens you use.  Wide angle lenses giving greater depth of field than telephoto lenses….

[Zelmor]

I am doing photography of my models also, and have come to the conclusion that the edge values of the lens aperture should not be used due to distortions. They can go there if must be, but usually it's best to stay in the middle and play with exposure time. Here is a shot I made with a low aperture value of 1.2 or about (I use manual non-click lenses so I have no exif data in the file). My goal was to create depth by having one model in focus and all the rest gradually falling more and more out.

[Doug ex-em4]

I am doing photography of my models also, and have come to the conclusion that the edge values of the lens aperture should not be used due to distortions. They can go there if must be, but usually it's best to stay in the middle and play with exposure time. Here is a shot I made with a low aperture value of 1.2 or about (I use manual non-click lenses so I have no exif data in the file). My goal was to create depth by having one model in focus and all the rest gradually falling more and more out.

What was the thinking behind having the out of focus model in the foreground? I ask because it doesn’t seem to fit in with what you said in your text:

My goal was to create depth by having one model in focus and all the rest gradually falling more and more out.

Thanks

Doug

[Thargor]

Not my image, but  having a scene set up where there are models in the foreground and background creates more depth in your image.  Shooting "through" nearby objects creates more depth and having them blurrred directs the viewer onto the mid-distance subject rather than rather than allowing the eye to wander over lots of individual models with none as the main subject.  It's a technique that is used often by photographers.

All lenses will have an optimum aperture.  It is very rarely the lowest or highest values.  It's a bit like fuel efficiency in a car - it might be able to drive at 150mph and at 5mph,  but it's probably at it's best around 50-70mph.