Best sculpting stuff for 28mm?

[smirnoff]

Gents, not done any minor sculpting stuff for years, whats the best stuff for it these days? Only doing simple stuff like bonnets and plaid (great kilts) for Montrose Scots

[Ogrob]

I still hold to greenstuff. I buy from GF9 that sell the blue and yellow in separate logs instead of the strips.

[dampfpanzerwagon]

I also recommend Green Stuff. I sometimes mix it wit Milliput.

Tony

[smirnoff]

Cheers gents, unspolt by progress then. Ordered some GF9.
Are there any online tutorials you reccomend (bar this Warhammer one )  for sculpting the plaid before I go off hunting? Heavy draping and folds.....

[tin shed gamer]

Don't try to sculpt folds.Is the short answer.
If your not use to sculpting. Simply start with a flat back ground peace. Draped over the area you want. The leave it alone.. Until its.well into its curing time.(  not an exact science as it depends on your mix and how warm your room is) your looking for that point where it resisted being lift up and away from the figures and doesn't immediately start to fall back to its original postion. The you gently apply an '~' shape to the edge thats the most dramatic / animated on your cloth . No it can be as severe as an 'S' shape but you shouldn't take these folds more than a 1/4 to a 1/3 up the cloth.
As each fold or wrinkle isn't actually that . It's a long thin wedge/ triangle fading towards the point of contact on a surface/corner or point of gathering. Added on top of the initial flat piece of cloth . You just add a correspond piece underneath to represent the crease / wave in the cloth.
A couple of pointers. Don't try to do a base layer former in one piece of clay its much easier to achieve the right look with a couple of pieces glued together and hidden with the detailing.
Its often more successful for flowing capes and flapping cloth .To size the former on the former then remove it to add the base edge folds and leave it to dry. Then hold in place to get a feel for the direction of the detail.
If your just starting out Only work on at most two folds before leaving it to dry. Otherwise you'll paint your self into a corner and end up squashing the previous area of detail.
Don't be affraid to take clay back off it's not going your way.( thats why its better just to do a couple of folds at a time.Then you Don't damage the detail you've already done when you remove 'wet' clay. That argued back)
Sculpting isn't just addding clay so sand or carve areas into your clay once its dry. The worst that can happen is you loose a little time and have to back fill.

Most importantly Less is More. It always requires at least one less fold than you think. Bellowing cloth just requires minor hints of creases to wards the attatchment points on the figure not much else.

What ever clay you think you'll need to add at each point.Half it. (Especially when your starting out.) It's easier to add than to remove clay when the detail is still wet.
Plus your clay lasts longer.
Hope thats of some help. I you get stuck once you start .Im more than happy for you to pick my brains ( such as they are with home schooling.)

Mark.

[zemjw]

Have a search for Tom Mason on youtube. He covers a lot of stuff.

[smirnoff]

Thanks Mark, I think I get it
Cheers zemjw

[Captain Harlock]

Don't try to sculpt folds.Is the short answer.
If your not use to sculpting. Simply start with a flat back ground peace. Draped over the area you want. The leave it alone.. Until its.well into its curing time.(  not an exact science as it depends on your mix and how warm your room is) your looking for that point where it resisted being lift up and away from the figures and doesn't immediately start to fall back to its original postion. The you gently apply an '~' shape to the edge thats the most dramatic / animated on your cloth . No it can be as severe as an 'S' shape but you shouldn't take these folds more than a 1/4 to a 1/3 up the cloth.
As each fold or wrinkle isn't actually that . It's a long thin wedge/ triangle fading towards the point of contact on a surface/corner or point of gathering. Added on top of the initial flat piece of cloth . You just add a correspond piece underneath to represent the crease / wave in the cloth.
A couple of pointers. Don't try to do a base layer former in one piece of clay its much easier to achieve the right look with a couple of pieces glued together and hidden with the detailing.
Its often more successful for flowing capes and flapping cloth .To size the former on the former then remove it to add the base edge folds and leave it to dry. Then hold in place to get a feel for the direction of the detail.
If your just starting out Only work on at most two folds before leaving it to dry. Otherwise you'll paint your self into a corner and end up squashing the previous area of detail.
Don't be affraid to take clay back off it's not going your way.( thats why its better just to do a couple of folds at a time.Then you Don't damage the detail you've already done when you remove 'wet' clay. That argued back)
Sculpting isn't just addding clay so sand or carve areas into your clay once its dry. The worst that can happen is you loose a little time and have to back fill.

Most importantly Less is More. It always requires at least one less fold than you think. Bellowing cloth just requires minor hints of creases to wards the attatchment points on the figure not much else.

What ever clay you think you'll need to add at each point.Half it. (Especially when your starting out.) It's easier to add than to remove clay when the detail is still wet.
Plus your clay lasts longer.
Hope thats of some help. I you get stuck once you start .Im more than happy for you to pick my brains ( such as they are with home schooling.)

Mark.

There's some solid advice here, I would add to this ''As each fold or wrinkle isn't actually that . It's a long thin wedge/ triangle fading towards the point of contact on a surface/corner or point of gathering. Added on top of the initial flat piece of cloth . You just add a correspond piece underneath to represent the crease / wave in the cloth.'' that you can use a needle file after everything is set, on the flip side of the high spots of the fold to remove some material instead of adding material next to it. I usually add some miliput in the green or grey stuff to have both a firm and slightly elastic base to work upon.
For full mini sculpting there is no better material than Beesputty imo. But you have to bake it so that excludes conversions on plastic minis.