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Author Topic: The Ruff  (Read 2060 times)

Offline Paul Richardson

  • Mad Scientist
  • Posts: 934
The Ruff
« on: February 12, 2021, 02:09:12 PM »
 Does anyone know during what period the ruff was commonly worn? I've seen it described as being worn from roughly the 1560s until roughly the 1620s, but Empress have an officer in their ECW range wearing a ruff and at least one figure in The Night Watch (1642) appears to be in a ruff. Thanks in advance. 

Offline SJWi

  • Mastermind
  • Posts: 1638
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2021, 03:02:28 PM »
Mr Wiki implies it started to fall into disuse in the early 17th century but lingered in later in the Dutch Republic which could explain the “Night Watch” .

Offline Sculptorton

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  • Posts: 20
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2021, 04:01:40 PM »
I would say things gradually change so it would not be a surprise to see a few about in the 1640s.

I think it’s a bit like moustaches for instance, became very common in the 1970/ 80s started dwindling in the 90s but thirty years on some people still wear them even though it’s not widely considered as fashionable as beards or clean shaven.
My sources for this idea is watching re runs of bulls eye while sculpting!

I have nothing against moustaches btw I think they look splendid.

Offline Captain Blood

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  • Posts: 19305
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2021, 05:32:38 PM »
I favour a moustache and a ruff  ;)

Interesting question, Paul. I have wondered the same thing myself. It’s a very characteristically Elizabethan look for the upper classes. I guess it could have lingered as a minority taste into the 1640s.
Powdered wigs (and non powdered wigs) are a similar case. Very much in during the Seven Years War, falling out of favour by the time of the AWI and French Revolution, yet still in evidence in some quarters by the time of the Napoleonic wars...
I guess these things change gradually, and there will always be some who refuse to bow to new fashions in hair or wardrobe, preferring the ‘proper’ look of the old way.

Rather as now, where most people in business no longer bother with a tie. Indeed, in some sectors, like the one I worked in until recently, wearing a tie was seen as unappealingly starchy and old fashioned. Not suiting with the culture of the day... But then there are some professions, societal groups, and particular situations, where a suit and tie is still very much seen as ‘proper’ if one wants to be taken seriously...  ::)

Offline Paul Richardson

  • Mad Scientist
  • Posts: 934
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2021, 05:43:29 PM »
Many thanks for all the replies. Interesting suggestions. When I started working in the City in 1980 I remember seeing the odd person (usually elderly) wearing a bowler hat. They really stood out, because the bowler had long dropped out of fashion.

Offline Paul Richardson

  • Mad Scientist
  • Posts: 934
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2021, 09:17:30 AM »
I guess then my second question is, was there ever a time when the ruff was worn by rank-and-file on campaign?

Offline Black Burt

  • Scientist
  • Posts: 440
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2021, 09:28:55 AM »
I would think that a ruff on campaign would be very very rare the falling band was the most common type of neck wear for all classes.

Offline Paul Richardson

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  • Posts: 934
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2021, 11:32:17 AM »
Well, having done a bit of research (always the last resort) from the books I have here at home:

Osprey's 'Matchlock Musketeer' at plate A3 has a musketeer in a ruff, described as an English musketeer in Dutch serive, 1588 - 1603, based on de Gheyn

Osprey's 'The Spanish Tercios' p41 reproduces an engraving showing musketeers and arquebusiers in ruffs in 1594

Osprey's 'Imperial Armies of the Thirty Years War (1)'at plate A3 shows a front rank infantryman, 1618-40, with sword and shield in a ruff

and Ian Heath's old 'Armies of the Sixteenth Century' shows a number of Dutch and Spanish pikemen, arquebusiers and musketeers in ruffs.

Not sure where this leaves us.

Offline Arthur

  • Scatterbrained Genius
  • Posts: 2185
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2021, 11:20:39 PM »
Ruffly speaking, if I had to choose between both types of neckwear, I'd say it's a tie.

Offline Paul Richardson

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  • Posts: 934
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #9 on: February 15, 2021, 09:09:00 AM »
 lol

Offline Sparrow

  • Mastermind
  • Posts: 1302
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2021, 05:14:37 PM »
There are some contemporary pictures of ECW generals with ruffs as well as contemporary establishment/wealthy figures. Eg Isaac Pennington, Colonel of the White Regiment, London Trayned Bandes (also Lord Mayor).

The first releases of the Empress Miniatures ECW range were very much geared towards the Trayned Bandes  hence the inclusion of an officer with a ruff.

It’s worth remembering there could well have been minor regional variations in appearance in the ECW eg Cornish and Welsh troops may well have have looked somewhat “old fashioned” in appearance to troops from areas such as London or the surrounding counties. (Another example that the more we find out about the ECW, the more questions are unanswered 🤣).  Indeed the antiquated appearance of the Welsh troops in the Royalist army at Edgehill was the subject of some humour and lampooned in at least one Parliamentary propaganda sheet in 1642.

Hope this helps.




« Last Edit: February 15, 2021, 05:16:25 PM by Sparrow »
Put your trust in God and keep your powder dry!

Offline Paul Richardson

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  • Posts: 934
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2021, 05:20:59 PM »
Interesting. Many thanks.

Offline Sparrow

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Re: The Ruff
« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2021, 05:28:00 PM »
When it comes to campaign appearance this again may vary dependent on regiment / which part of the war you are depicting. A ‘uniform” cost in the ECW is provided to be worn over a soldier’s normal clothes, primarily to provide protection from the elements. Officers (and that includes ensigns) mark themselves out by a) a sash of the general’s colour (not all Parliamentarians wear orange!) and b) their wealthier appearance. On campaign this will have become increasingly “distressed” and pragmatic but for earlier war units, wealthier units (e.g. London Trayned Bandes?) and some garrison regiments the officers could have maintained a very fashion conscious appearance?





Offline westwaller

  • Mad Scientist
  • Posts: 770
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2021, 06:11:01 PM »
If you look at this Wikipedia page below, you will see from their portraits that a few of them are depicted with ruffs.
List of MPs elected to the English parliament in November 1640

Offline Metternich

  • Scatterbrained Genius
  • Posts: 2559
Re: The Ruff
« Reply #14 on: February 27, 2021, 11:46:33 PM »
Certain countries (e.g. Spain) were more conservative in dress than others, and old-fashioned styles could hang on longer with the older generation who felt more comfortable with the styles of their own youth.  Also, the ruff was always something that betokened gentry/nobility (because of the need for a servant to starch it) and was also worn by those wannabees who wanted to give the impression they belonged to that class.  Certainly the ruff continued into the early 30 Yrs. War and the ECW, at least among the wealthy and higher middle classes (although by then the falling collar - of lace for the wealthy and linen for the rest - is far more likely to be worn).  Note that you see paintings of certain high-ranking individuals of the 30 Yrs War in ruffs, e.g. Count Tilly (d. 1632; note there are also portraits of him in falling lace collar, which may be what he actually wore in the field, the ruff making a more "majestic" image), H.R. Emperor Ferdinand II (d. 1637), King Christian IV of Denmark (d. 1648).