Stripping paint from Axis and Allies (land) tanks

[pancakeonions]

Hello all!
I thought I'd seen a topic on this before, but a quick search proved fruitless, and even google let me  down (lots of similar, close topics...  But couldn't find exactly what I was looking for)

I have a few Axis and Allies tanks, and the paint is the wrong scheme (and a bit thick looking).  I'd like to repaint them, but wanted to get advice first!

I was thinking I'd soak them in undiluted Simple Green overnight, and go at them with an old toothbrush.  I also have 70% isopropyl alcohol, in case the SG doesn't work at first go.

I'm a bit nervous, since the paint looks so thick (unless the model quality is just poor?) - have others tried this, does it take longer than a 24 hour soak in SG?   Anyone know any links to folks who have advice on stripping the original paint off their A&A minis?

Thanks a bunch!

[Tactalvanic]

Most important thing, what are they actually made of, as thats more important than the type of game miniature itself.

HIPs plastic, metal? other type of plastic/material, eg PVC or resin.

Paint will come off but you don't want to destroy the object underneath.

HIPs and metal will happily survive but if the material is a different type of plastic eg PVC - classic boardgame miniature material, or resin, you risk destroying/melting the miniature itself with the solvents.

There are a lot of posts about paint stripping here, and elsewhere regards miniatures.

Priority is being sure of the material they are made of and how it will, or not chemically react with your solvent.

[pancakeonions]

Update: Oof.  24 hours in Simple Green (undiluted) and I can't even *scratch* the paint on these puppies.  Did they just bake the paint onto these models??!  They're plastic (seems like a HIPS type plastic, but the turret on one tank and the barrels seem a lot softer) so now im a bit flummoxed....  How the heck to folks take the paint of these guys!?

[Tactalvanic]

picture might help and we can then all enjoy the bad paintjobs to

IF enamels, it may take longer to cut through, but still should shift, UK wise we tend to lean more toward dettol or other strong stuff, but biostrip is a popular one now as its far less stinky and gets good results.

if there is bendy soft plastic parts its like thats PVC or similar. I would suggest take just one, give it a scratch and then submerge for another 24 hours and see if your scratching gave the chemicals a chance to penetrate.

also some varnishes can be "resistent" so getting past that may need more time/ scratching through to get to the actual paint to remove