Help! - Fixing figures to resin bases

[Ragnar]

So, I have bought some nice resin bases from Proxywars on Etsy. 

1.  Before I started wrecking things, does anyone have any tips on fixing slotta base metal figures to the resin bases?  I have thought about cutting the tab down to one or two pins under the feet and drilling holes in the base.  I have also considered removing the tab entirely and glueing straight onto the resin base.

2.  How about resin or plastic figures with no tab?

[carlos marighela]

Zap a Gap. No real need to pin or drill but you can if you want a belt n brace solution.

[zemjw]

I go with option 1 - cut the tab down until each foor it just covered. Either round them off to create pegs, or leave them square and use a bigger pin vice.

I have cut the tab off completely and pinned them, but the tab is part of the model, so I find it makes a stronger join.

Be aware that when you split the tab it will push the model out to the sides. I keep meaning to do that step with a razor saw, but generally find nibbling away at the first split works well enough

[Silent Invader]

This thread might help

https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=142076.msg1811719#msg1811719

[Ragnar]

Thanks all for the advice.  Looks like I'll be attempting to cut the tabs down

[Fitz]

I would remove the tabs entirely and drill and pin the figure to the base. I find it less work than faffing around trying to shape pins from the tab, and if a gap-filling glue (like epoxy) is used, the pin joint is more than strong enough. I always use non-ferrous pins, brass for preference.

[zemjw]

I would remove the tabs entirely and drill and pin the figure to the base. I find it less work than faffing around trying to shape pins from the tab, and if a gap-filling glue (like epoxy) is used, the pin joint is more than strong enough. I always use non-ferrous pins, brass for preference.

I used to do that, but for figures on tip-toe (even just walking with the heel raised), there just wasn't a good place to drill without the pin being visible, and very little thickness of metal to drill to secure the pin. The slotta tab was already there, and attached, so it made sense to use it.

For figures flat on the ground, I have done both approaches. If you have a comfy pin-vice, then it's fine, but my old one had an open end, and used to dig into my hand