Merlon's not quite 40K SF thread

[Merlon]

Thank you for the generous comments.

Another addition to gameboard clutter and plot devices - a galvanic bulldozer.

[ulverston]

What a fantastic thread. A work of genius. There seems to be something different to learn from each one of your creations. Thank you for sharing.

[blacksoilbill]

I love the servitors and the tractor: really fun models.

[Merlon]

Thank you very much.
The only credit for the tractor I can claim is putting a Soviet style wood winter cab on it.
I found inspiration for the tractor on an Instagram account Insta @kevlar_and_clank

[Merlon]

Well the birthday boy liked his modular AS90 Basilisk, so I was asked to create some modules to make a multi role Chimera.
So first we have a Hellhound module

Second is a Trojan module. A little bit of a gap, but tracks should hide that.

Finally a Salamander module


Quiet few days ahead as the boss is away at conference, so I may try and finish some of my own models.
Keep on trudging along.

[Freddy]

Great vehicles, I like the idea of the modules.

[Merlon]

Thank you, yes the Chimera lends itself to modular builds. The rails in the rear hull easily accept slide in units. The top hatch can be used to locate elements on the front of hull.

Finally put some paint on some models, not the best, but it will do for me.
Assorted elements for oil extraction, inspired by a number of videos about exhausted oil wells in Texas - https://www.youtube.com/@TheZachLife/videos


Got the dump truck back from the Necromunda game, so attempted to dirty it up a bit.


Needed some beasts for encounters, so hunting through the old boxes in the cellar found the McDeath Dragon Turtle.


There were also a pair of Ambulls lurking.


Finally a piece of my history, think it is the oldest surviving figure I painted in my youth. A Jabberwock - base marked 1982 - I wanted to repaint this, but 48 hours in 99% isopropyl alcohol has not even touched the paint on the model.  No idea what I used.


Will have to find something stronger to use.

[KD47]

I'm seeing a few of my favorite techniques in these pics.

Quick n Dirty Rust n Dust:

Spray paint the model a very dark brown, then lightly overspray with orange in a splotchy way for a dark, basic, heavy rust.  This is also the basis of other techniques like chipped paint with chipping medium or hairspray, but is still pretty good even as a stand-alone.

GW typhus corrosion - almost instant grunge and instant good results

Dry brushing a dark metal color on the edges of the models where you'd normally find dings and scrapes.   If the model is made of actual metal, paint it normally, then use a knife to scrape off the paint in a jagged way on the edges.

Get a small bottle of Americana colors Honey Brown.   Add a little water and heavily wash the parts of the model that you'd see caked-on dust.   

Ink washes go a long way in simulating oily stained places like tracks or where a metal panel meets another.

Use chalks for rust n dust for subtlety if you want to, but the above will carry you a long way in dirtying up your models.

Have fun.

[Merlon]

Thank you for the suggestions.
I inherited a large number a large number of acrylic paints following the death of a neighbours father.
Very slowly  starting to get to grips with them, there are number of tones for dust, mud, rust etc.

[Ragsta]

A treasure trove of old gaming minis there! They all look great, Jabberwock included. Have you heard of BioStrip? A bath in for a day or two could well do the trick.

Sorry for your neighbour.

[KD47]

Sorry 'bout your neighbors' pop.

For pure lead minis like that Jabberwock, good old acetone (nail polish remover) will remove that paint lickety-split, no s(fooling)t.  Pine Sol cleaner will do the same.   Let them soak overnight in a small glass container that will never see food again.   Then use a toothbrush - or better yet, a denture brush - and clean that mess off.  Wear safety goggles because you don't want those things spritzing into your eyes when you go to it with the brush.  Been there, done that, it sucks. The rinse with water and let 'em dry.   

Alcohol even at 91% isopropyl will simply not work.   You could try denatured wood alcohol, but I don't like working with that stuff other than as airbrush thinner.  Acetone fumes are also to be avoided.

Prime and start over.

These methods will absolutely NOT WORK with plastic or resin models.   For those, I don't know what to tell ya.  Maybe use the existing paint as a primer and just paint over it as best you can.   They won't be as nice as they used to be, but maybe good enuf for gaming purposes.

[Merlon]

Thank you for the suggestions.
The neighbour's father was a nice bloke, Alf got through Covid and was then got by "traditional" flu - a sad loss.

Because of my COPD I have to be careful what chemicals I use. Acetone is a bit too far, indeed I am amazed I get away with using isopropyl alcohol. Usually use green Dettol, which at least smells nice.
Frustratingly it is also why I can't have a resin 3D printer, the fumes trigger the lungs.

[Merlon]

Previously I have scratchbuilt mostly military style lorries for various iterations of Guard armies
A sort of inspired by Oshkosh lorry

An inspired by Canadian armoured cab Mercedes from Afghanistan lorry
 

But now as I move into a more civilian / small skirmish sort of campaign, those kind of vehicles are a bit too chunky -so time to create a more rustic vehicle.
Sort of inspired by Russian lorries a small cab vehicle which can have all kind of bodies added onto the chassis.
When photographing white styrene I find that B&W pictures seem to give more detail.  A sort of round cornered, pressed steel body sort of look. I create the main cab and then cut in the wheel wells. Next will be scribing in door and cab details, then moving on to figuring out the axle  and chassis mounts. Then finally the best way to resin cast it so I can produce a number of them.

Keep on grinding on.

[Freddy]

Great looking trucks!
How do you make those curved plasticard pieces?

[Merlon]

Thank you.
I find a cylinder of the correct diameter, then cut a long strip of 10 or 20 thou plastic card. Then wrap it around the cylinder, gluing as I go, three or four times is usually enough.  Does not take that long before the glue sets and you can slide or cut ring off the cylinder. I used the same principle to create the oil tanks posted earlier.