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Author Topic: How to paint MDF Old West buildings  (Read 13392 times)

Offline Codsticker

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Re: How to paint MDF Old West buildings
« Reply #15 on: June 17, 2025, 04:14:17 PM »
Thoughts, ideas, suggestions?...  Cheers!

I usually give the mdf sheets a light sand and wipe them down with a moist cloth before assembling the kits. One YouTuber, whom I cannot recall, recommended removing the burn marks with a moist cloth. I don't recall having too much problem getting decent coverage.

Offline traveller

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Re: How to paint MDF Old West buildings
« Reply #16 on: June 17, 2025, 05:56:02 PM »
This is a great thread, thanks all for sharing!  :)

Offline Ultravanillasmurf

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Re: How to paint MDF Old West buildings
« Reply #17 on: June 17, 2025, 05:57:41 PM »
As I have mentioned previously (possibly in this thread, so apologies) but I have generally used Halfords grey acrylic spray primer to undercoat mdf, but due to a shortage (too lazy to walk across town) I have used Citadel, TTCombat, Army Painter and a recent wargames spray paint company direct on the MDF.

Offline SgtSlag

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Re: How to paint MDF Old West buildings
« Reply #18 on: June 17, 2025, 06:29:20 PM »
Thanks for the replies.  I wonder if there are differences in the manufacturing process in different countries for making MDF?  The MDF I use is wood pulp, mixed with a resin material, and pressed into flat sheets, with a smooth finish on one, or both, sides; some MDF sheets have a rough, textured finish on one side, which I try not to use.

I've found that the best glue, thus far in my experiences, has been Low temperature Hot Glue.  I use 50mm square MDF bases for Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE) plastic Army Men figures:  bonding the LDPE figures to their MDF bases with Hot Glue, creates a really strong bond, both to the MDF, and to the LDPE plastic -- very little will bond, strongly, with LDPE plastic...

My approach to making my buildings stand upright, while still being able to take them apart for storage, is to Hot Glue sections of alternating plastic straws on the joining walls' edges:  line up the straws between two wall sections to be joined together, then slide a wooden dowel inside the aligned straw sections, to hold the two walls in place; repeat on all four corners; when disassembly is desired, remove the dowels from the glued-in-place straws, and the walls will no longer be held together.  These are 54mm scaled buildings, of 2-4 stories tall, so storage is a challenge.

I really want to move forward with these buildings...  I hope to devote some time to working on them this week.  I really need to finish one as a prototype and proof of concept, before I move too far along with the rest of them.  After proof of concept, I can finish the remaining buildings/wall sections, in an assembly line fashion, to speed them up as much as possible.  I've printed off a bunch of signs and such, on label paper:  peel and apply to the MDF sign cut-out's, to minimize painting...  Cheers!

Offline Ultravanillasmurf

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Re: How to paint MDF Old West buildings
« Reply #19 on: June 17, 2025, 09:35:31 PM »
That sounds more like hardboard (Mason Method).)

Offline Cory

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Re: How to paint MDF Old West buildings
« Reply #20 on: June 17, 2025, 09:55:04 PM »
LDF, MDF, and HDF/Masonite are variations of the same material with different hardness, exactly like you described. Variations between countries will be in the resin/glue/bonder ingredients.

The rough surface on one side usually means it is Hard Density Fiberboard (HDF) rather than the softer Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF).
.

Offline SgtSlag

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Re: How to paint MDF Old West buildings
« Reply #21 on: June 18, 2025, 03:14:41 PM »
LDF, MDF, and HDF/Masonite are variations of the same material with different hardness, exactly like you described. Variations between countries will be in the resin/glue/bonder ingredients.

The rough surface on one side usually means it is Hard Density Fiberboard (HDF) rather than the softer Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF).

Wow!  Thanks for the insights.  Never knew any of that.  Much appreciated!  Cheers!

 

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