Hirst Arts Blocks

[digimortal]

Next year I want to build a hirst arts dungeon and when I mentioned this to a friend he said that the weight of the blocks had initially turned him off a similar idea.

My question is for anyone that has built a dungeon or similar project that has required a high number of blocks.... Do they weigh alot when constructed? 

Does the plaster used determine how dense and heavy they are?

Cheers

[Hammers]

Next year I want to build a hirst arts dungeon and when I mentioned this to a friend he said that the weight of the blocks had initially turned him off a similar idea.

My question is for anyone that has built a dungeon or similar project that has required a high number of blocks.... Do they weigh alot when constructed? 

Does the plaster used determine how dense and heavy they are?

Cheers

Yes it will.

[Dewbakuk]

Yes to both questions.

For example, my egyptian labyrinth weighs around 30kg.

[oldskoolrebel]

Yes to both questions.

For example, my egyptian labyrinth weighs around 30kg.

Ouch...

...what are the dimensions for you're labyrinth? It looks pretty big.

Cheers
Andy

[Dolmot]

I built about 50" of sturdy city walls with towers, copplestone yard and extra buildings. Yes, it does weigh something. However, it's split to elements no more than 12" each, and the wall sections are 1/4" thick "wall builder" casts glued on styrofoam. Therefore none of those parts are too cumbersome alone. You need a car to transport the complete set, though, simply due to the volume. (We did carry it in luggage once, but that's another story...)

Then again, some weight is desirable. There will be a few pounds of lead piled on it during battles, so it shouldn't shake too easily.

It depends on the project, whether the weight becomes a problem. Whatever you do, try to keep the components manageable. With careful construction you can make the separate parts match perfectly so it's not necessary to glue it all together. Use foam or other light materials for all invisible supports. Also avoid protruding or thin bits in finished elements. All plasters do chip or break eventually, so it's always better to minimise the fragile parts in your design. I'm generally more worried about chipping in transport than the weight.

[Dewbakuk]

The Labyrinth is 4' square with a lot of walls. As Dolmot says, make everything in sections. For example, the labyrinth floor is made of 36 8" square tiles and no wall piece is longer than 8". You need a car to transport it but it breaks down well.

For a dungeon, you'll be far lighter as I assume you'll be making corridors and rooms as opposed to a whole board Also, the type of plaster used will make a big difference, as they have different finishing weights. The Hirst Arts forum has a page devoted to reviews of plasters, which is always worth checking out.

[P_Clapham]

That sounds quite smart actually.  I was in the process of building a few pieces, and was overwhelmed by the weight of each section.  I'll have to give your method a go.  By the way, what would the best material to build on?  I was thinking of going with particle board.

I built about 50" of sturdy city walls with towers, copplestone yard and extra buildings. Yes, it does weigh something. However, it's split to elements no more than 12" each, and the wall sections are 1/4" thick "wall builder" casts glued on styrofoam. Therefore none of those parts are too cumbersome alone. You need a car to transport the complete set, though, simply due to the volume. (We did carry it in luggage once, but that's another story...)

Then again, some weight is desirable. There will be a few pounds of lead piled on it during battles, so it shouldn't shake too easily.

It depends on the project, whether the weight becomes a problem. Whatever you do, try to keep the components manageable. With careful construction you can make the separate parts match perfectly so it's not necessary to glue it all together. Use foam or other light materials for all invisible supports. Also avoid protruding or thin bits in finished elements. All plasters do chip or break eventually, so it's always better to minimise the fragile parts in your design. I'm generally more worried about chipping in transport than the weight.

[oldskoolrebel]

I've started to build pieces on corkboard. Hmm might not be the best option! I'm going to have a look in work today and see what off cuts there are.  Cork does have the advantage of being cut with a stanley knife but ain't the most rigid.
I'll probably end up using ply, unless I find some thin board.
Cheers
Andy

[Hammers]

As I have said elsewhere, casting and building with Hirst Art very easily grows into a small industry. I have proposed to Alex that we set up a special board in Workbench for plaster casters.

[Ruarigh]

My Hirst Arts terrain pieces are all based on 3mm MDF. Even the large-ish temple (18" by 24" as a single piece) is based on that and it holds up well enough. My dungeon pieces are all small, no larger than 6" by 6" and are based on 1/2" EPS. This makes the base light, but is rigid enough if you build your dungeon in smaller pieces.

[kenohhkc]

All of my Hirst Arts stuff is mounted on 1/2 pink rigid foam. Its light, paints well, is rigid and gives just enough. It also allows you to cut it easily and cut into it for special pieces. MDF is fine, but the cuting and weight to me were a problem.

[Xyxox]

I've started to build pieces on corkboard. Hmm might not be the best option! I'm going to have a look in work today and see what off cuts there are.  Cork does have the advantage of being cut with a stanley knife but ain't the most rigid.
I'll probably end up using ply, unless I find some thin board.
Cheers
Andy

I use Artist's Pressboard such as from Dick Blick art supplies. It requires a saw to cut (I am currently using a razor saw, but will be migrating to a hobbyist table saw from Proxxon in the future), but is very rigid. I also use the HA method of using extruded polystyrene foam, though my method is a bit different.

I'm building test pieces right now as my plan is for a double modular system of separate wall and floor pieces that are magnetized and go onto standard size plates for use in gaming. It's hard to describe how I'm doing this but I will be taking photographs and building a tutorial in the future.

[rob_alderman]

I always wonder whether people mix up way too much. I'm at art school and I am constantly in the plaster room (we use Pottery plaster and Crystical) and we mix it up in pints. The other day I did 30 pints worth.
Surely a pint would be an awful lot of hirst arts bricks...

and bloody messy!

[Dewbakuk]

Surely a pint would be an awful lot of hirst arts bricks

Nope, only about 3-4 molds.

[archangel1]

Mixing up a pint of dental plaster would not be particularly efficient in this case.  You'd have to work a little faster than would be comfortable and you'd probably end up with a fair bit of waste.

I usually mix up the recommended 1/2 cup, which will fill a mold with some left over, which I pour into another mold that contains items I know I'll need in multiples.  Even the excess that I scrape off the curing molds gets stuffed into an open hole.  There's some waste but not nearly as much as you'd think.  In my case, I've now got extra Egyptian floor tiles, statues and wall blocks that I can use wherever.  It's slower this way but I'm not in any particular hurry.  I'm still just messing around in any case.  If I want to do a large project, like the ruined fieldstone tower or the windmill, I'll probably order the complete kit from one of the resellers.  They take a lot of casting and time.