what paints do you all use?

[The Black Rider]

Well the question is in the title! I've been using GW paints forever but im trying to branch out a bit. I find the GW paints a bit thick sometimes and they dry out a bit too quick too.

I'm also just a bit curious to what you guys use to get such great results with your painting!!

[Viper]

I've been in much the same position for a while.
GW paints are pretty much all I have ever used but as I've moved away from their games I'm fairly curious about moving away from their paint too if there are better options, I know what you mean about them being thick and drying fast.

Truth be told I've not done any painting in a long long time, I really need to be in the mood for it and more importantly I'm now in love with skirmish games so there are only a handful of models needed to play and time can be really spent on them...compared to say being faced by a Warhammer army that is a couple of hundred miniatures and looking for some kind of speed painting "gaming standards" type deal.

So yeah I'm no help at all, aside from saying that GWs foundation paints can be very nice as a first coat to work upon, and I'm all ears as to the suggestions of the experts too.
 

[Orctrader]

In no particular order...

Vallejo - VMC, VGC and "Panzer Aces."
Coat d'Arms.
GW
P3
Foundry
Andrea
Plaka - a few
Gamecraft Minipaints ~ Edit:  I meant "Miniature" paints.
Some "craft" acrylics.

[matakishi]

I use Foundry and Coat d'armes with Games Workshop metals and red (because it's so transparent).
You're going to get as many answers as there are paint manufacturers

If you want to try something different then Foundry are an expensive investment to start although I still have most of the original set I bought ten years or so ago when they were first released so the cost has evened out over the years. Because of their postage replacing odd pots is a chore but Caliver books also stock Foundry and have reasonable shipping rates.

I would recommend Coat d'armes as they are from the same factory as Foundry and used to be the GW range before they switched to the bolter bottles.

http://www.blackhat.co.uk/coat_darms/

[Svennn]

In no particular order...

Vallejo - VMC, VGC and "Panzer Aces."
Coat d'Arms.
GW
P3
Foundry
Andrea
Plaka - a few
Gamecraft Minipaints
Some "craft" acrylics.

Miniature Paints, Howard Hues, W&N Poster colour, poster & gouache tubes the list goes on and on

[warhammergrimace]

Vallejo
Rackham (these are hard to get hold now, though are very good)
GW washes

[Ray Rivers]

GW paints are pretty much all I have ever used but as I've moved away from their games I'm fairly curious about moving away from their paint too if there are better options, I know what you mean about them being thick and drying fast.

I think most paints nowadays have lots of pigment, more than I care to use out of the bottle.

I use mostly Foundry paints, but also GW and Vallejo.  The first thing I do with most of the paints that I buy is add water. 

[revford]

Mostly Anita's Craft Acrylic for me, with a few special colours from DecoArt and Vallejo.

GW paint seems to be an odd one.

I've got loads from the pre-barcode era that are still fine, even some as new as the taller hex pots are good.

But anything in the little hard hex pots seems to dry up and die before I'd used half the pot.  That was when I gave up on them and found I actually preferred the cheap craft shop paint. 

[Smokeyrone]

Mostly Reaper and, I know, it's barbaric, but "model master II" acrylics (made for styrene, but works equally well with metal)

Yeah, the names of my colors are exemplified by "Warsaw Pact dark green" and such, but they are available, and durable

aND THIS MODEL RAILROAD line of paints, that come in 2oz bottles and is cheap and made for multi surfaces.


My primary paint is not for figures, it's bottles and bottles of Mustard, Linen and terra cotta "Folk Art" acryllics for terrain.   

[HerbyF]

I use mostly craft acrylic paints. Nice 2oz bottles for a reasonable price. If you keep them properly a bottle will last for years. I have bottle that have been in use on my bench for over 15 years. I keep them all on their tops, and if they start to get too thick I just ad a little water. Always shake real good before opening. Brushes clean up easily too. Just put a few drops of dish washing liquid in your water and they will stay soft & clean.

[Viper]

I think most paints nowadays have lots of pigment, more than I care to use out of the bottle.

I use mostly Foundry paints, but also GW and Vallejo.  The first thing I do with most of the paints that I buy is add water. 

That sounds about right. Thinking about it I always used to add the water and paint together in very small amounts which ment I had to keep mixing more every minute or so, I probably should have mixed it in larger quantities for my own ease.

Vallejo have always been a somewhat impressive and daunting range, eyedropper bottles are a bit of a change but the range of colours avaliable from them in just stunning.

[Froggy the Great]

I use the Reaper Master Series paints almost exclusively.

[Calimero]

I have Vallejo MC (100 or so bottles), Coat d’Arms (15), Foundry (12), about a dozen GW (old and new) and a few Tamiya’s Acrylics… plus 2 DecoArt Crafter’s Acrylic for painting my figures bases.

[Crudeboy]

I'm on the Reaper Master Series boat as well. I picked up a few of the triads a few months ago when I got back into painting and have loved them.

I've got a huge load of cheap craft paints that I've been trying to use to some success. As far as those go Delta Ceramcoat seems to be the best that I've tried. The Anita's stuff works alright, I suppose, but I'd avoid FolkArt or Apple Barrel ("the Wal-Mart specials") unless it's for terrain. It's either too thick and/or the pigment separates like crazy with the slightest drop of water.

[rob_alderman]

I only use GW, I have a few foundry paints that I picked up on the cheap though.

I am tempted to convert to FOundry eventually, when I am rich and famous.

I am also tempted by Reaper Master series and P3...